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The caveat with the TM AC1900 is to not flash it to Asus official anymore. All the drama relating to the router is from people hacking it to get AiMesh working on it, a feature Asus wants to keep exclusive to their own real models. There is a new hack that does get the latest Asus firmware working, you can find it on slickdeals thread for this router. Probably shouldn't be in the OP though. Just stick to CFWs. Merlin is Asus-like firmware with some extra features added, and no AiMesh. The latest (384.4_2) works with it, however Merlin might side with Asus and future updates may not work with the TM-1900AC. https://asuswrt.lostrealm.ca/features https://sourceforge.net/projects/asuswrt-merlin/files/RT-AC68U/Release/ Tomato works too, there is a new fork from kille72 since shibby doesn't appear to be working on it anymore. I haven't tried it yet. https://www.linksysinfo.org/index.php?threads/fork-freshtomato-arm.74117/ One of the cooler things CFWs have is Entware support, which is basically a software repository for routers. http://pkg.entware.net/binaries/armv7/Packages.html Obviously you are dealing with a dual core 800mhz CPU with 256MB of RAM so it isn't a great idea to install too much, but if you wanted to install some *nix utility/package chances are it's available.
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Apr 16, 2018 09:28
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I'm trying to get networking between two buildings about 1500 feet apart. I can't use wifi since there's a ~100 foot hill between the buildings and it's through dense woods. I can't use any power line devices since one end is solar. All I have between the buildings is a buried phone line that has, IIRC, 4 pairs. One of which is currently used for phone. Both sides have power so I figure there HAS to be some sort of modems I can use, I just can't find anything. Ideally I'm looking for 100mbit, but anything over 50mbit would probably be fine.
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Apr 16, 2018 20:21
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A VDSL2 bridge should do alright http://www.planet.com.tw/en/product/product.php?id=49031
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Apr 16, 2018 20:23
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Touch more than I wanted to spend, but drat do those look simple. Plug 'em in on each end and go. It probably won't be until the beginning of May I start work on fixing things up and buy more networking gear, but I think this will be the solution. Thanks. Since I do have some time, I bet I can find a good deal on ebay or something if I bide by time. When it gives the specs I don't understand which direction would be uplink and downlink, if both sides have the exact same hardware... I'd run in symmetric mode anyway, just confused. chrisgt fucked around with this message at 20:50 on Apr 16, 2018 |
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Apr 16, 2018 20:47
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chrisgt posted:Touch more than I wanted to spend, but drat do those look simple. Plug 'em in on each end and go. It probably won't be until the beginning of May I start work on fixing things up and buy more networking gear, but I think this will be the solution. Thanks. $170 is too much? https://dsl-warehouse.com/planet-technology-vc-231-high-speed-vdsl2-ethernet-extenders-2pk-p-295.html
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Apr 16, 2018 20:51
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The 231G has G.INP which is going to help over the longer distance. The setting relevant here is likely to be: code:code:Thanks Ants fucked around with this message at 20:58 on Apr 16, 2018 |
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Apr 16, 2018 20:55
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IOwnCalculus posted:Are we talking patch cables, or installed wiring? redeyes is talking about bulk cable cat6, which would be installed wiring, though the cat6a/cat6/cat5e discussion applies to both. Your network cabling is only as "fast" as the lowest rated piece in the chain. So a cat6a bulk spool is only cat5 if you punch it down into cat5 jacks or cheap RJ45 crimped plugs. Alpha Mayo posted:Not sure if I agree, 1Gb could be a bottleneck in some areas, like if you wanted to build an SSD NAS for video editing or something. And the next WiFi standard (AX) is 11gbit theoretical, it would be kind of sad to go through the trouble of running cable just to get beaten by WiFi in throughput. Eh, that's pretty edge-case for the "home network" demographic. If you're building an SSD array for video editing, it should be direct attached SAS / thunderbolt / USB 3.1 and it should probably be located close to the editing workstation. 10gig switches are pretty squarely OUT of the home game market, and even then you're probably better off using 10g fiber switches instead of 10g-baseT since twinaxial cables are cheaper and run cooler than 10g-baseT, and even 10g-base SR fiber optic modules are cheap enough that you could just roll over a fiber patch cable to connect two devices together. Also if you're seriously looking at 10g for future proofing, then you're likely to look at 40g/100g future proofing at which point you HAVE to use single mode fiber anyways.
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Apr 16, 2018 21:08
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Thanks Ants posted:Direction is determined by which box is set to CO (central office) and which box is set to CPE - it just alters the frequency usage. If it was more important to push data to the remote site then you'd set the local one to CO and the far end to CPE, and set it up like: CrazyLittle posted:$170 is too much? The slower, non-G version would probably be plenty fast for my needs. reading comprehension edit: i can't read, that's a pair for $170. That's a pretty good price.
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Apr 16, 2018 21:34
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They're $118 (each) direct https://planetechusa.com/vc-231g-1-port-101001000t-ethernet-vdsl2-bridge-30a-profile-w-g-vectoring/
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Apr 16, 2018 21:47
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Seconding a VDSL2 bridge in the that price/performance category. But note that the distances listed are for good quality cabling (ie: indoor), so don't be surprised if it's only in the 50/50mbps speed for that 1500ft/500m range.
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Apr 16, 2018 21:51
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Also, remember that buildings 1500ft apart doesn't mean that the line length is 1500ft. If it's got to go around/over a hill, then that could add quite a bit of cable length, depending on how the line has been run.
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Apr 16, 2018 22:30
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n0tqu1tesane posted:Also, remember that buildings 1500ft apart doesn't mean that the line length is 1500ft. If it's got to go around/over a hill, then that could add quite a bit of cable length, depending on how the line has been run. The line length is 1500 feet or maybe slightly less. I trenched the cable in probably 10 years ago, I had a partial 3000 foot roll they sold as about 1500 feet, ended up with maybe 30 feet extra. It's high quality, double shielded underground cable. I'd expect the signal quality to be fine. 50/50 would be ok for starters, I think. I'll have to see when I actually go implement everything. If it really isn't fast enough, there are more pairs, I could always get another pair of modems and bond the ethernet connections, I should have machines with enough ports on both sides to do that. (yes, I understand the limitations and stuff with bonded ports)
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Apr 16, 2018 23:38
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Thanks Ants posted:They're $118 (each) direct https://planetechusa.com/vc-231g-1-port-101001000t-ethernet-vdsl2-bridge-30a-profile-w-g-vectoring/ I've talked to those guys before. That's not actually direct. That site's run by Versatek, which is one of several distributors for Planet in the US. DSL-Warehouse is another distributor.
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Apr 17, 2018 21:23
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So my brother is building a barn/garage. Its not too far from his house, but it is a big metal sided building, so his current wifi won't reach out there. He's asked me how he can get wifi out there. At the moment, he has yet to run electric or anything else out; so my thought was that he could make an ethernet run from his current router out there, then put a wifi access point out there. But I'm not sure if that's the best way to handle it, nor how that would work with the existing wifi. I'd like something that's going to be as hands off and cheap as possible. Any suggestions?
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Apr 22, 2018 03:38
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Wacky Delly posted:So my brother is building a barn/garage. Its not too far from his house, but it is a big metal sided building, so his current wifi won't reach out there. He's asked me how he can get wifi out there. At the moment, he has yet to run electric or anything else out; so my thought was that he could make an ethernet run from his current router out there, then put a wifi access point out there. Direct burial Ethernet Cat6.
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Apr 22, 2018 04:34
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Twerk from Home posted:Direct burial Ethernet Cat6. This. Stick a PoE-powered wifi access point on the end of it in the shed, and feed it/ power it from the main building
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Apr 22, 2018 05:54
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CrazyLittle posted:This. Stick a PoE-powered wifi access point on the end of it in the shed, and feed it/ power it from the main building OK, any recommendations for which ap to get?
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Apr 23, 2018 13:42
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as always, Ubiquiti
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Apr 23, 2018 16:41
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Speaking of, my controller won't show statistics for my devices anymore, I'm not sure why. It was trucking along, everything was working great, and some time in the last month or so, it just stopped, and now only displays this on the Statistics tab: The dashboard still shows everything with charts populated and even the statistics page itself is still showing the ring charts and quick look numbers at the top, but the per-device usage charts just show that warning. I'm running a cloud key, and have tried rebooting every drat piece of ubiquiti kit I have and have made sure everything is up to date. Any ideas?
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Apr 23, 2018 17:11
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derk posted:as always, Ubiquiti How will take work with the network he's already got? Also how idiot proof is it?
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Apr 23, 2018 17:39
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Wacky Delly posted:How will take work with the network he's already got? Also how idiot proof is it? You don't necessarily have to have a UniFi controller running; you can set up a standalone AP using the UniFi smartphone app. It's pretty straightforward, and you shouldn't have to touch it again unless you want to update the firmware.
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Apr 23, 2018 20:40
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Buying a home in June and was just wondering if it's worth it to pay to have it wired for Ethernet or do it myself. Looking for two Ethernet ports in the 4 bedrooms, living room, study, family room and kitchen and a 3 drops in the ceilings for APs. With the patch panel being installed in a laundry room. Has anyone hired this out and what was your cost?
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Apr 23, 2018 22:33
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Depends on the construction of the home, how much time you have, and the value you place on your time. If everywhere you want to get cabling to is accessible from above/below and you know that there aren't horizontal studs in all the walls then it could be a nice little project to do yourself.
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Apr 23, 2018 22:54
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Hi goons I know this is the home networking thread but I really need help and am in a bind. I don’t really trust the local vendors around here but I can get hikvision cams for cheap. I’m in a Chinese factory and we want to install 250 ip cams. Our factory engineering department are capable of pulling wire and installing cams. Phase one is to install 100 on the ground floor. The vendor quoted tp link Poe injector switches, while cheap I don’t have they have surge protection (lightning strikes is a problem and happens) and don’t have a good reputation for work. I will use hikvision cams and nvr but not so sure which poe switch. Thanks guys. Ps I told the vendor and engineering department head to separate the network installation on a separate vlan and they looked at me funny. And apparently we need to pull a fiber optic line because Ethernet will get saturated??
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Apr 24, 2018 12:09
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Oh and no one in china had ever heard of surge protection.
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Apr 24, 2018 12:10
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caberham posted:Hi goons I know this is the home networking thread but I really need help and am in a bind. I don’t really trust the local vendors around here but I can get hikvision cams for cheap. 250 cams is a huge number. Like 7-10x the size of even the largest DIY rollouts I've ever seen or heard of. Surge protection will be handled by plugging each of your PoE switches into a high-quality UPS. I am not sure of any single surveillance system that will handle 250 cameras. Likely you're looking at a professional solution to get this all working. To DIY you'd be looking at ~16 single NVR boxes, since those boxes usually handle up to 16 cameras per box. You can get PoE switches that have ~48 PoE ports, so figure you'll need 6 of those, or fewer larger switches. In my system, I see that 26 cameras at 10 fps / 2.1 megapixels are producing ~6.3 megabytes per second of traffic on our LAN. Multiply that by 10 to get 63 megabytes per second with a ~260 camera system, which is about half of what gigabit LAN could handle. This is presuming you stick with 10fps / 2.1 megapixels, however. To me, this seems like a really fun challenge!
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Apr 24, 2018 14:57
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He’s in a country and enterprise that doesn’t know anything about surge protection. The abhorrence of best practices down there will be his undoing. Keep us updated! 
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Apr 24, 2018 15:03
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bobfather posted:250 cams is a huge number. Like 7-10x the size of even the largest DIY rollouts I've ever seen or heard of. You're a bit off on your storage/bandwidth, at least according to this calculator: https://www.security.us.panasonic.com/storage-and-bandwidth-calculator  When you're talking about that many cameras, you're looking at a lot of resources to record that many cameras at once. The company I work for sells Video Insight, and I know it can handle large numbers of cameras. For that many, you'll probably be looking at a couple servers with some fast storage.
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Apr 24, 2018 16:21
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n0tqu1tesane posted:You're a bit off on your storage/bandwidth, at least according to this calculator: https://www.security.us.panasonic.com/storage-and-bandwidth-calculator All of our cameras use VBR up to 4000 kbps bitrate, but hover (a lot) lower than that because the rooms they cover are static a lot of the time. 615 Mbps is close to, but not quite saturating a gigabit network. My overall point is that running fiber / 10 GbE is probably overkill, but that much traffic should reasonably just be on its own gigabit LAN. I'm a pure amateur, but I know what the amateur solutions are capable of. To do this the amateur way, one could run a 5-computer system with Blue Iris. Each system would need an i7-8700 / 32GB RAM / 2x8TB hard drives at a minimum. What I could not see is efficiently doing this with any kind of off-the-shelf NVR.
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Apr 24, 2018 16:51
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I think this is at the scale where if you don't specifically know how to do it you hire a company who does.
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Apr 24, 2018 16:54
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caberham posted:And apparently we need to pull a fiber optic line because Ethernet will get saturated?? A nitpick, but Ethernet over fiber is still Ethernet - just typically faster - and 2.5/5/10G running over copper is a thing, so fiber is not a necessity even if >1G is.
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Apr 24, 2018 19:58
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yaleforks posted:Buying a home in June and was just wondering if it's worth it to pay to have it wired for Ethernet or do it myself. Looking for two Ethernet ports in the 4 bedrooms, living room, study, family room and kitchen and a 3 drops in the ceilings for APs. With the patch panel being installed in a laundry room. Has anyone hired this out and what was your cost? If it's a 2 story house just pay them to do as much as you can on the first floor. I'm building new construction right now and I have 10 combo drops the builder is running for me (Cat6 and RG6), and will probably run about 6 more ethernet only drops when I move in. I'm paying around 2K for the drops and a network panel with 15A outlet. I prioritized the drops on the 1st floor as I can easily run additional drops on the second floor. I didn't run 2 drops to each room due to cost. 140 bucks a line from the builder and it adds up quickly. I can always fall back to the RG6 cable and use Moca or HPNA if I absolutely have to have another physical line in the room. I may try to talk them into letting me run some of my own drops before drywall goes up, and leave the lines just coiled in the walls, but they'll probably frown on that. Worth a shot though. Whatever you decide, it's going to be a lot less labor intensive if it can get done before the Sheetrock goes up. I'm shopping now for Wifi AP's and a 24 port switch. Need to decide on a router and a few other things as well. edit: I just realized if you're buying in June this probably isn't new construction. You may have a hard time finding someone to actually do the job, when I looked at getting 2 Ethernet lines ran and 2 rear surround wires, a lot of places either didn't want the job, or would do it for an outrageous sum of money. You might need to look for a higher end home automation/home theater company. Even then depending on how hard it's going to be to run the drops, it'll affect the price. skipdogg fucked around with this message at 20:30 on Apr 24, 2018 |
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Apr 24, 2018 20:07
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skipdogg posted:If it's a 2 story house just pay them to do as much as you can on the first floor. I'm building new construction right now and I have 10 combo drops the builder is running for me (Cat6 and RG6), and will probably run about 6 more ethernet only drops when I move in. I'm paying around 2K for the drops and a network panel with 15A outlet. I prioritized the drops on the 1st floor as I can easily run additional drops on the second floor. I didn't run 2 drops to each room due to cost. 140 bucks a line from the builder and it adds up quickly. I can always fall back to the RG6 cable and use Moca or HPNA if I absolutely have to have another physical line in the room. Regarding 24 port switches: I ran out of ports fast, go for a 48 port if you can swing it. I suggest used HP Procurves. I have gotten, here in the UK, a 24 port Procurve for 35 quid used on ebay, and I am regretting not springing the extra 10 or 20 quid to get a 48 port as I ran out of ports, and we have a relatively medium sized 1 story house (3 bedrooms, living, dining). The HP Procurves btw are rock solid. Also, as mentioned multiple times in the thread, the Unifi APs are fantastic. I also quite like my mikrotik router, also stable as a rock.
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Apr 24, 2018 20:18
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yaleforks posted:Buying a home in June and was just wondering if it's worth it to pay to have it wired for Ethernet or do it myself. Looking for two Ethernet ports in the 4 bedrooms, living room, study, family room and kitchen and a 3 drops in the ceilings for APs. With the patch panel being installed in a laundry room. Has anyone hired this out and what was your cost? Last September I got a single story 1300 sqft home wired, 5 locations with 2 lines each run to a box in a central closet. Two guys completed the job in a morning, charging $600 for labor and $300 for materials. They said if I had gotten Cat6A instead it would have roughly tripled the materials cost. Being a network engineer by trade who knows how to crimp cables, I'm still glad I got it done professionally - it would have taken me a lot longer and the results probably wouldn't have been nearly as clean.
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Apr 24, 2018 20:32
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Will keep you guys updated with prices and network diagram. Fortunately the engineering department has a decent relationship with the vendor and previous experience with DIY camera projects in the factory. Phase 1 is 100 cams. Implementation and monitoring the security policy is another beast of HR and manage my nightmare. Setting up the cams is easy enough. But deducting people’s pay using video evidence and encouraging snitching? Heh Steakandchips posted:He’s in a country and enterprise that doesn’t know anything about surge protection. Funny enough this country is also the country in charge of fabricating modern electronics for the whole wide world. It’s so hit and miss here in China I just have bad luck whereas 5 km away there’s a lightless factory running automation 24/7. Will keep you all updated
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Apr 25, 2018 03:36
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That's a massive camera project. The electrical engineers in my office would typically design a system like that and be aware of all the things that could catch you out. A big project. For off the shelf NAS QNAP has a server that comes with a license for 8 cameras and can be expanded to 80. I assume the limit is because of network or disk bandwidth. You could end up with a very full rack of gear. In other news Apple have finally ended the AirPort now that they have sold all of the remaining stock. They'll stay in the OP for a while but this is the end of the line. https://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2018/04/apple-exits-wi-fi-game-airport-routers-discontinued-after-stock-sells-out/
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Apr 28, 2018 07:26
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Are those cameras Hikvision?
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Apr 29, 2018 00:09
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quote:The HP Procurves btw are rock solid. Thats funny, thats my setup as well. Got the 48 port Procurve gigabit switch, Mikrotik router, and a unifi AP for guests (I use a Mikrotik for my own wifi).
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Apr 29, 2018 00:16
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Hey all, I just moved into a new apartment where my landlord/roommate claims we have 200Mbps Comcast set up, but when I run tests, I'm only getting 10Mbps, and online gaming performs really badly. I assume this may be because I'm too far away from the router, and there's Apple Airport thing acting as what I assume is a wireless repeater in the hallway near my room, which may be halving my wireless speed. My room does have a TV cable (which I don't currently need), so is my best option here to set up a coax access point? Or is powerline a better option? My limitations are that: I don't have access to all the other rooms in the apartment building (so I'm not sure if it's possible to do coax despite having the TV cable, since http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-set-up-a-coax-MoCA-network/ apparently had to modify every room), and I'm not the owner of the Comcast account or the router setup (literally just moved in, so I'm also still trying to figure out where everything is). I do still have an old router from my previous apartment, if it's possible to turn that into an access point. I'm also pretty unfamiliar with setting up anything more complicated than a standard single router wireless setup, so sorry if this seems like an obvious question. Dad Jokes fucked around with this message at 08:31 on Apr 30, 2018 |
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Apr 30, 2018 08:24
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Get your landlord to fix it, not your problem.
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Apr 30, 2018 08:33
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