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GutBomb posted:Picked up the car and I was worried for no reason. It's awesome. Doesn't have any extra miles on it and it came with a full tank of gas. Did they show you some more documentation for that TSB?
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Apr 21, 2018 04:28
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Hello people who work on vehicles. I am the original owner of a 2005 GMC Yukon SLT V8 4800 with 71200 miles on it. For the past few months, the TC and ABS lights are lit up on my dash. I took it too my trusty mechanic who is GMC Certified (but owns his own shop now) and he informed me that the EBCM and BPMV need to be replaced. Further, he stated that I would have to take this to the local GMC dealership to be replaced, as there are programming updates that have to be done with specialized equipment. My questions are: 1. Does this make sense that I can only get it serviced at the dealership? 2. What kind of pricing should I expect for the modules and for labor? I hate going to the local dealerships for any service or parts.
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Apr 21, 2018 04:47
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kimbo305 posted:Did they show you some more documentation for that TSB? Yep it was totally legit, just hasn't been fully disseminated yet since it was so new. Just bad timing and anxiety on my part
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Apr 21, 2018 05:33
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The Gardenator posted:Hello people who work on vehicles. Did your mechanic tell you how he came to the conclusion that both modules are bad? Did he actually manage to pull codes out of both modules indicating a fault? (a generic scan tool can't do this... something like a SnapOn Verus or similar would be needed, which ain't cheap). For #1, he's correct in that module replacement needs to be done by a dealer (or by somebody with a GM Tech2 tool; generally only dealers will have them); they have to be "paired" to the vehicle via the VIN (this is the programming he was talking about). No idea on #2, I avoid the dealer as much as possible. I'd probably get a second opinion, I kinda doubt both modules would go bad at the same time. From a independent shop, not a chain, one that has high ratings on Yelp. If you're lucky, it'll wind up being a bad wheel speed sensor.
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Apr 21, 2018 06:12
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He told me one of the modules was bad (I don't remember which one), and that in his experience when one goes bad the other should be replaced as well. I don't know what scan tool he uses, but I have seen snap on tools in his shop. There is another mechanic I trust, but he typically has a month or more waiting list (as does this mechanic) to get a car into his shop. Made an appointment at my local dealership for next week. Quick googling says to expect a $2k or more estimate.
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Apr 21, 2018 06:59
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I've had to deal with a similar sort of module issue on a Corolla. Do some googling about those modules, but they might share a common thing (ground/power/data) where one could gently caress up the other. It's possible one isn't bad, but instead of paying the labour twice when the other module shits the bed it could be in your best interest to replace both.
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Apr 21, 2018 14:58
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Can tire pressure sensors fail/degrade and consistently underreport? I'm reading 37 on my bike pump and the sensor is at 30. Pumped up to 41 and it reads 32.
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Apr 21, 2018 15:56
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Absolutely. TPMS sensors are garbage.
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Apr 21, 2018 16:01
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Absolutely. TPMS sensors are garbage. TPMS sensors are great for reporting a change in condition, IE: Tire's loving empty, idiot. TPMS sensors are garbage at giving an absolute value, and you should still check pressures with a gauge at least occasionally.
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Apr 21, 2018 16:05
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I'm wondering if doing the relearning routine will help it correct itself. Maybe I can find someone around here who can turn it off for me.
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Apr 21, 2018 16:11
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Got some ECU tuning questions, as tomorrow i've got about 5 hours to get a traction control system working and use as a base line for fine adjustments. And I am far out of my wheel house on this. This isn't for a production car, about 70% built from raw materials, but the ECU is a syvecks S8 connected to an AIM Evo 5 doing data logging. And luckily there is a lot of sensors reporting back data. The test plan I've come up with for the start of tomorrow is to take what I have right now ( a seemingly linear set of 3d maps) and let the drivers adjust the overall desired torque reduction gain on the fly from the dash. The current setup going into this: Based on a desired torque reduction value I have maps I can set for fuel injector cut and ignition angle retard. torque reduction clamped at a max of 35%. The torque reduction maps as a function of wheel slip vs wheel angle to a ignition angle retard and a slight fuel injector retard. Right now I've set up a linear ramp that increases desired torque reduction with wheel slip alone, a less aggressive ramp that increases it based on steering angle and slip (since together they multiply out to a bigger gain value than slip alone) First sub-question is that the maps/calculations take into account exhaust temp in their last phase, and that seems like I should use to up the fuel injector retard as exhaust temp rises? Which is what I have it doing now. Or is that for some other effect I have no idea about? I just added it so fuel injector cut gets more aggressive as exhaust temperature increases So any advice for a strategy to approach this? I'm just going to sit there watching all the data over wifi and tweak parameters while the drivers dial in overall gain. Are there any specific data points I should be watching as good indicators for the traction control making a meaningful impact? M_Gargantua fucked around with this message at 06:39 on Apr 22, 2018 |
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Apr 22, 2018 06:29
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kimbo305 posted:I'm wondering if doing the relearning routine will help it correct itself. Maybe I can find someone around here who can turn it off for me. Your bike pump gague is also probably not great. Get yourself a decently good dial gauge, if you don't already have one. They're not expensive - $20-$25 on Amazon. This advice comes from my stepfather, a retired pipe fitter who once built a rig in his garage to cross-test pressure gauges and then wrote an article about them for RoadRacing World. His findings were that pencil gauges were worthless, and lots of cheap crap gauges of other designs were only accurate at one specific point on the dial, while others were simply miscalibrated and consistently off by a few PSI at any pressure. This one for example https://www.amazon.com/JACO-ElitePro-Tire-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B015HURK64/ is well rated and is ANSI certified to the B40.1 standard, which should give you within 2% accuracy in the middle third of the dial, which is 20-40PSI, and within 3% for the rest of the dial. That's close enough for your purposes.
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Apr 22, 2018 07:22
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Another A.I. guy wrote in Post your ride... "If you have a ODB II dongle, you can get a program called forscan(free for pc version) that lets you do buzz tests and cylinder contribution tests to give you a good idea of injector/engine health." I checked the forscan app site, and it says... "FORScan Lite application was developed specially for a computer diagnostic of Ford, Mazda, Lincoln and Mercury vehicles. " My question to you all is.. Is there a version of this for a Dodge Durango? I just got my OBD II B.T. reader and this would be some useful information to have for a dodge...
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Apr 22, 2018 20:27
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Hello, I am replacing the rotors on my 2008 Scion XB. As I was using a hammer to knock it loose from behind, this thing fell from somewhere. I have no idea what it is or where it goes, but it seems important. This was the passenger side. Thanks (I apparently can't remember how to post up an image, so here's the URL) - https://imgur.com/a/HJDVfPJ 
Gimpalimpa fucked around with this message at 23:21 on Apr 22, 2018 |
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Apr 22, 2018 20:51
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Gimpalimpa posted:Hello, More pics. You don't know where it came from? Like did it come from above the wheel? Somewhere in the deep recesses of your wheelwell? What does it seem to be made of? Rubber? Metal? Plastic?
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Apr 22, 2018 22:06
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Here's some more pictures: https://imgur.com/a/HJDVfPJ . It feels like a hard rubber and it may have fell out around the point where the wheel attaches to the axel near where the rotor is.
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Apr 22, 2018 23:22
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That looks...homemade
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Apr 23, 2018 00:42
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Have you checked for a similar part in the same general area on the opposite side of the car?
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Apr 23, 2018 00:56
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When my Saab has the ignition on (but not started), the pump for the vacuum brake assist runs every 10 seconds. Check my logic here; I'm thinking there's a vacuum leak and the pump's trying to maintain vacuum, and am going to first replace this line (which has a check valve in it): https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/33808/Brake-Booster-Vacuum-Hose-w-Check-Valve-12847287/ I'd rather not tackle the pump (it's in a pain in the rear end pull-half-the-front-end-off location) if I don't have to; does the line or check valve seem like the most likely suspect? (They're sure as poo poo the easiest step to take first.)
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Apr 23, 2018 00:57
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Gimpalimpa posted:Here's some more pictures: https://imgur.com/a/HJDVfPJ . It feels like a hard rubber and it may have fell out around the point where the wheel attaches to the axel near where the rotor is. The curved sections make me think it's part of the suspension, maybe involving the springs.
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Apr 23, 2018 00:58
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Gimpalimpa posted:Hello, Did you buy your car used? Does it have oversize wheels or tires? That looks like a homemade spring spacer, meant to lift cars in an extremely ghetto way, either for oversize wheels/tires, or because of sagging suspension. They are popular with three types of people, all with a common theme: 1: People hauling way too much poo poo in their vehicle/pickup, and who are tired of the tires rubbing the wheelwells, who are on a budget. 2: People trying to lift their vehicle for oversize wheels and/or tires, who are on a budget 3: People who have older cars with sagging suspension and want the cars to look nice, ride quality be damned, who are on a budget I used to run them on my 1988 Olds Delta 88 during the last few years I had it (was my first car) due to the "dragging rear end" (#3) situation above. They worked well until you hit your first bump or pothole at speed, and inevitably lost one or two.
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Apr 23, 2018 01:05
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Odd...I looked up and found another one in the spring? I guess I'll put this one somewhere nearby and call it good. My father in law bought oversized tires for the car a long time ago but doesn't remember anything about spacers. https://imgur.com/a/pyEZHDb Thanks everyone.
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Apr 23, 2018 01:13
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I've got a 2018 Toyota Corolla and there's a sound in the cabin that I am really curious about. When the radio is off, I can hear an occasional ~2-second bzzz that sounds almost like a cellphone vibrating, and just today I noticed that it even happens after I turn the car off. I doubt it's anything to worry about but it irks me that I don't know what's making that noise. Do y'all have any idea?
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Apr 23, 2018 02:38
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Is it from a speaker? Or, like, under a seat? Is the sound still there if you sit in the passenger seat? Or, if you have wireless transponder keys, does it still sound when the keys are out of range?
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Apr 23, 2018 02:41
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Last week I had a mechanic fix the major issue with my car (1997 Ford Ranger) - a rolling idle. I also asked for an oil change and a general inspection because it had been a while and I'll be pulling a trailer 1000 km in a week. In addition to the oil change and replacing the IAC valve (the new one is very shiny!), he: - flushed the cooling system - replaced my manual-transmission fluid - and did a couple of other small, non-engine things. When I bought the truck, about 3 years ago, I noticed it was a bit difficult to get it into 2nd. It got easier, and I chalked this up to me getting used to driving it, but shifting gears is now difficult again. Now, 2nd is really hard to get in to, and 3rd and 4th are a bit tricky, too. When I pull the lever into what I think is the correct position, it stops like I'm hitting a wall and I have to try repeatedly to find the correct position to put it into gear. I've pulled the knob off a few times already, pulling too hard on the lever. Could this be something as simple as the new fluid? The invoice says they billed me 1/2 hour at their shop rate for the labour of changing the fluid, which to me doesn't sound like enough time to mess around with the linkages at the shifter. This is the stupid question thread, and I think my question is stupid. Thanks in advance!
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Apr 23, 2018 03:03
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Does it work better if you pump the clutch pedal a few times? Rangers have awful clutch hydraulics.
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Apr 23, 2018 03:12
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Gimpalimpa posted:Odd...I looked up and found another one in the spring? I guess I'll put this one somewhere nearby and call it good. My father in law bought oversized tires for the car a long time ago but doesn't remember anything about spacers. Take that one out too, and check the other side and remove any you see there. You don't want to have the suspension behavior different from one side to the other.
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Apr 23, 2018 03:12
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Leperflesh posted:Your bike pump gague is also probably not great. Get yourself a decently good dial gauge, if you don't already have one. They're not expensive - $20-$25 on Amazon. My bike pump is pretty good, though I haven't matched it against my Longacre gauge. I knew there was an inconsistency because I pumped all 4 tires to 40psi and still got 34 for the "low" corner.
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Apr 23, 2018 03:30
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IOwnCalculus posted:Does it work better if you pump the clutch pedal a few times? Rangers have awful clutch hydraulics. I haven't tried, I will need to check this! Thank you! Is there an easy fix for the awful Ranger clutch hydraulics? Pump the clutch a few times at startup? Upgrade something?
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Apr 23, 2018 03:36
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ExecuDork posted:I haven't tried, I will need to check this! Thank you! If you look on Craigslist you can probably find a "cars for sale" section where you can put it up for sale,
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Apr 23, 2018 06:55
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hey so this is definitely a dumb question but I picked up a set of pilot sport 4s on clearance sale for a stupid good price and one of the tyres has two staples embedded into the tread at the thickest part: i've already emailed to ask hey whats goin on ya dumb bitch, gimme back my money, but is there any chance i'm overreacting and that the tyre is fine? i can't see/feel any damage on the inner part where the staple is
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Apr 23, 2018 07:49
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Those staples aren't anywhere near long enough to get close to doing any damage. They just stapled shipping paperwork to one tire, in the thickest part of the tread. Just pop them out before you drive on them. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 10:01 on Apr 23, 2018 |
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Apr 23, 2018 09:57
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IOwnCalculus posted:Which terminal did you connect the large wire to? It wasn't a new part from a store, I pulled it off the other car I had, but just to follow up on this, I took it a to a local shop that had the front office filled with pictures and trophies all related to the owner's Chevy Nova, which was enough of an endorsement for me. He called me back same day and said I'd grounded one of the starter wires(this was a day or two ago and I've forgotten his exact words) and the starter was destroyed, it would no longer properly engage or something. He put another one on and we drove it away.
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Apr 23, 2018 13:27
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I want to upgrade the radio in my Opel Vivaro to allow bluetooth connection with my phone. Digital radio would be sweet too. USB would do, as long as it charges at the same time. Question is, how the gently caress do you know whether a particular radio will fit my van? Is it a difficult job?
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Apr 23, 2018 13:50
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jiggerypokery posted:I want to upgrade the radio in my Opel Vivaro to allow bluetooth connection with my phone. Digital radio would be sweet too. USB would do, as long as it charges at the same time. Go look it up on crutchfield.com, you might need a new center trim piece shaped to fit standard radio sizes and wiring harnesses.
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Apr 23, 2018 14:50
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Corla Plankun posted:I've got a 2018 Toyota Corolla and there's a sound in the cabin that I am really curious about. When the radio is off, I can hear an occasional ~2-second bzzz that sounds almost like a cellphone vibrating, and just today I noticed that it even happens after I turn the car off. I doubt it's anything to worry about but it irks me that I don't know what's making that noise. Do y'all have any idea? If it's only happening when the car is turned off - it's probably the steering lock - it's electric in most newer toyotas. It's electric to accommodate push button start. They even use it on cars with a normal ignition key.
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Apr 23, 2018 16:21
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I know I'm moving at a glacially slow pace on my 2012 Impala's CV axles but they have been making skeleton in file cabinet noises for 6 months so it's not like they are going to die tomorrow right? Some of the reasons for the holdup, I cant find a repair manual for my car. I can find a Haynes manual for 2006-2011 Impalas, Chilton is the same way. I'm just about ready to go ahead and buy one anyways because it's the closest thing I can find at the $25 price and I think it should cover 90% of what I want to do except for the engine. According to wikipedia, the 2012 Impalas received a facelift with I guess new body panels (the only difference I know of is pre 2012 models have a chrome strip on the trunk) and dropped the 3.5 and 3.9L V6 in favor of the 3.6L LFX. The change of engine is a big one but really, does that change a whole lot else about the vehicle as well? I mean, I assume poo poo like the CV axles or say the fuel pump are probably the same. . . I think buying a manual for the wrong car is actually the right thing to do in this case simply because I doubt anyone is going to release a manual for my car at this time. The new 10th gen Impalas have been out for a while and I think even fleet sales of the 9th gen ended in 2016. Besides just the manual issues, I think I finally found a good video on the CV axle replacement, and I'm pretty sure it's a bit more involved than I was hoping for. I have to learn how to remove the brake caliper and brake rotor and even if I separate the steering knuckle from the McPherson strut I can count on popping the lower ball joint as well. I will also need tools for installing a new seal on the axle and I will need to count on transmission fluid leaking out a little. I also need/want to get this all done in one day so that I can take the kids to daycare and pick them up. A real mechanic at a shop thinks this is a 3hr job by the book, I'm pretty sure I can at least double that for baby's first axle change. Simply put, I guess this is going to Firestone Automotive (paging inch dick man. . .) because they are close to home and had the lowest rate of all the shops I called. It should be about $300 per side, but in comparison to probably $200 for tools and $100 for axles + spending all day working on this, I think it's a reasonable trade off. I've been to Firestone about 3 times so far, and thus far they were not a lovely as Midas, Midas took forever on my oil change because they admitted to using the wrong filter before I even asked what was taking so long and then had the balls to tell me my nearly new tires were hosed up to the point I had to sign a waiver to leave, Midas can kiss my golden rear end. I think I can trust this Firestone place, or at the very least take it straight back if it's messed up. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1uq9wx2Jhyc
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Apr 23, 2018 17:04
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What's the difference between a fuel filter and an oil filter? Are they the same thing technically speaking? I'm searching for a fuel filter for my 2006 dodge durango on Amazon, but all the search results revolve around spin on oil filters and fuel cleaner additives...
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Apr 23, 2018 18:43
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Entirely different things. Fuel filters often look like a can with a pipe going into either end, oil filters are the spin-on oil filters or cartridges. If you have the V6 durango the only fuel filter you've got may be integrated with the pump, hence lack of results.
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Apr 23, 2018 18:46
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I think he has the V8 but it's probably the same deal, I can't imagine they'd do different fuel system designs for different engines. Rockauto doesn't list a fuel filter. When dealing with a common maintenance item on a common car, if they don't list it, it's probably because it doesn't exist.
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Apr 23, 2018 19:16
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