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I have been poking at my busted Cr-10 and I think I have isolated the issue somewhat. My prints alway seem to fail at around the 1-2 mm height and I've noticed when I manually turn the coupler it moves up as per normal but in this 2mm range it will zero itself under its own weight. I think this is contributing to the issues I have been having with apparent skipped z steps. https://youtu.be/tL5X1xQBUto This is a short video of the behaviour. I have talked to other cr10 owners and they say their printer doesn't exhibit this behaviour. I have replaced motor, lead screw and z-nut to no avail so I'm very  at the momentSo I've hit a new wall. But if anyone has any ideas the throw at my I'm all ears
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Apr 25, 2018 07:18
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Jestery posted:I have replaced motor, lead screw and z-nut to no avail so I'm very However, when I got my CR-10 dual z-axis upgrade, the hole which the lead screw threads through attached to my gantry was far too tight causing the coupler to expand/contract like that when the motor went Maybe have a look at loosening that and re-greese the entire lead screw too? No idea if this is actually the solution, but worth a go I suppose!
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Apr 25, 2018 07:50
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kaffo posted:When you say z-nut I'm not 100% sure what you mean The little brass nut that the lead screw interfaces with, just next to the extruder. (Edit, I don't know the name) I've noticed that too, when I tighten it up hard the lead screw jams, so I have had to back it off a hair. I've tried leadscrews and nuts that had no lubricant on them ever and still Nuthin. It is just a bizzare , bizzare problem
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Apr 25, 2018 07:55
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stevewm posted:Every time I try another one, I always end up coming back to Slic3r...
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Apr 25, 2018 11:49
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Jestery posted:The little brass nut that the lead screw interfaces with, just next to the extruder. (Edit, I don't know the name) I had to take the vinyl frame insert cover stuff out of mine on the Z axis. It kept catching screws and messing up the print.
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Apr 25, 2018 12:28
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Can anyone that has a MK3 comment on the print quality. I preordered yesterday but it was before I found the thread where it seems 50% of people wish they would of gotten the mk2s since the print quality of the mk3 appears to have issues?
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Apr 25, 2018 13:56
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Given that print quality is mostly a function of slicer settings (with a mindful eye on the machine you're sending the resulting programs to), that's not really a valid criticism. People get amazing prints out of a $200 Monoprice Select Mini, and people also get garbage prints out of Ultimakers.
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Apr 25, 2018 15:09
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Someone talk me out of a CR-10S? I need a second printer because I'm getting requests almost constantly, and my current i3 clone needs an overhaul (upgrades, dampers, etc). But I can't have it down for the amount of time I'll need to do the job right. From what I've seen, it produces some pretty nice work, especially with the upgraded dual z-axes. And the print volume... I can only get so erect.
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Apr 25, 2018 15:13
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Given that print quality is mostly a function of slicer settings (with a mindful eye on the machine you're sending the resulting programs to), that's not really a valid criticism.
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Apr 25, 2018 15:14
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AlexDeGruven posted:Someone talk me out of a CR-10S? Unless you buy it from Printed Solid you're going to spend as much time troubleshooting it as you will for your current i3 clone. Also, the print volume is overrated because I've been printing things since 2015 and have never needed more print area than what is on the Mini v2 I'm currently playing with at work.
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Apr 25, 2018 15:17
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Given that print quality is mostly a function of slicer settings (with a mindful eye on the machine you're sending the resulting programs to), that's not really a valid criticism. This does not seem to be slicer based, seems to be the actual machine or firmware. People have tried basically all slicers and settings and still get issues. https://shop.prusa3d.com/forum/general-discussion-announcements-and-releases-f61/-testers-needed-inconsistent-extrusion-t15433.html Was just hoping that someone who owns one could chime in. Its hard to see how widespread it might be when people who have perfectly fine prints usually don't post about it.
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Apr 25, 2018 15:37
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Also, the print volume is overrated because I've been printing things since 2015 and have never needed more print area than what is on the Mini v2 I'm currently playing with at work. Not everyone is doing the same things with 3d printers though. 
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Apr 25, 2018 15:48
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ClassH posted:This does not seem to be slicer based, seems to be the actual machine or firmware. People have tried basically all slicers and settings and still get issues. There are posts in that thread by people who are having no issues. One on the very first page of that thread. mekilljoydammit posted:Not everyone is doing the same things with 3d printers though. They asked to be talked out of buying the thing.
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Apr 25, 2018 16:44
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mekilljoydammit posted:Not everyone is doing the same things with 3d printers though. Is that a 2 to 4 beer adaptor, or a 4 to 2 beer adaptor?
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Apr 25, 2018 18:14
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I own a tornado, and I use the giant print bed all the time for giant print stuff. Last week I printed out a 1:1 scale antikythera mechanism. My friend uses his to print out 1:1 scale prototypes of stuff he builds. The pro side is HOLY poo poo I CAN PRINT MASSIVE poo poo. The con side is "Oh, gently caress, this is gonna take a few days and the possibilities of a bind in the filament or this fucker popping off the bed are going to make me worry for a while". After a while you realize that while it may suck to lose a 17 hour print because of a clogged nozzle or a bind in the filament, unless you are on a super tight schedule it's annoying but you can basically just start over again. Filament is cheap enough that you basically are losing the cost of a can of soda from the vending machine. Time doesn't really matter unless you are really desperately needing that thing done at a specific date. There's good and bad points to any printer you get, but honestly, having a big print bed is a pretty cool thing if you actually plan to print big poo poo.
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Apr 25, 2018 18:24
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This is kind of where I'm at with the thought. It's not so much printing big poo poo, though, as packing a bunch of smaller things into one print. Even on my 8x10 bed I'd sometimes like more space between parts for extra cooling time, etc. And I'm fine with tweaking. I've done a complete overhaul of the X-Carriage on my i3 already and it was actually a lot of fun. I think the only real tweak I would do to a CR-10 would be going to a v6 or MicroSwiss so I could gently caress around with higher temps.
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Apr 25, 2018 19:12
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:I own a tornado, and I use the giant print bed all the time for giant print stuff. This is why I run a 0.80mm Volcano on my CR-10S now. It hauls rear end.
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Apr 25, 2018 19:16
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Now that I've owned a machine with a 330x330 bed for a while, one of my 220x220 machines is going to be a gift to my buddy's kids, and the other is going to get dismantled and reborn as another larger CoreXY machine. I haven't used either of the smaller ones in weeks. The beauty of having a large bed is that you can still print one tiny thing at a time if you want, the printer doesn't care at all. When you want to use the whole thing though...man, it's nice.
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Apr 26, 2018 00:27
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Help me goons. I'm building a delta. The primary ingredients came from a FolgerTech Kossel, but the included linear rails sucked rear end, because they were knockoffs. I like the linear rail style (instead of rollers on the 2020). I'm in no huge hurry to finish building it, so I'm piecing it together as I find deals. I've ditched the plastic parts, and am going with metal frame corners, vertical carriages, etc. The vertical carriers I got (something like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Diagonal-V...hi60luy7UHne-Ow) have 20x20mm mounting holes. Most linear carriages I'm finding are 20x15. I need 3x 500mm rails and carriages, and I'm ok rebuying the carriers if anyone knows of a 20x15mm version. I also can't find anything between $30/rail (knockoffs) and $200/rail (Hiwin/Igus) -- and Igus doesn't even make a 20x20mm carriage. Hiwin does, but, again ... $$$. Halp.
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Apr 26, 2018 15:11
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What’s your plan for tensioning the belts? IMO the carriages with a hex screw tensioner is a better design, but are a bit harder to find. I have knock off hiwins on my kossel and they’ve been fine; one of them binds a bit but it’s never been a problem - most of the play/backlash comes from the ball joints and there are mods to address that if it bothers you. Maybe you can just drill the carriages for the mounting pattern you need?
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Apr 26, 2018 19:49
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Complete newbie here, trying to figure out what kind of printer I want to start saving up for. I'm primarily looking to print terrain etc for tabletop miniature gaming, from the things I'm looking at I would guess something like a 150mm cube worth of print area should cover everything I want to print. My primary goal is getting the best print quality I can without being unreasonably slow so I have to do as little post-print cleanup as possible and capture detail as best I can. It sounds like the Prusa is well regarded, but is that way more printer than I need? I also looked at the mini resin printer from Monoprice that was linked earlier and I'm not sure if maybe that is more of what I want given that that method of printing is generally smoother from my understanding. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
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Apr 27, 2018 23:08
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FromTheShire posted:Complete newbie here, trying to figure out what kind of printer I want to start saving up for. I'm primarily looking to print terrain etc for tabletop miniature gaming, from the things I'm looking at I would guess something like a 150mm cube worth of print area should cover everything I want to print. My primary goal is getting the best print quality I can without being unreasonably slow so I have to do as little post-print cleanup as possible and capture detail as best I can. It sounds like the Prusa is well regarded, but is that way more printer than I need? I also looked at the mini resin printer from Monoprice that was linked earlier and I'm not sure if maybe that is more of what I want given that that method of printing is generally smoother from my understanding. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! I've been experimenting with 3d printing tabletop miniatures terrain and it's not going as well as I'd hoped. Covering up or sanding away the layers can be really tough or even impossible depending on the print. If anyone has tips I'm all ears.
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Apr 28, 2018 02:02
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Look up acetone vapour smoothing, as it suggests it uses acetone fumes to very slightly melt the texture on the outside of the print: https://makezine.com/2014/09/24/smoothing-out-your-3d-prints-with-acetone-vapor/
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Apr 28, 2018 06:05
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cakesmith handyman posted:Look up acetone vapour smoothing, as it suggests it uses acetone fumes to very slightly melt the texture on the outside of the print: Yeah, with a smaller build volume making an enclosure might be more viable
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Apr 28, 2018 07:06
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Vapor smoothing margin for error goes way down the smaller the model is, too.
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Apr 28, 2018 08:56
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Note that vapor smoothing only works on ABS, which is a pain in the rear end to print (warps heavily on most machines and smells terrible). Also note that you inherently lose some fine detail in the process. My recommendation is to look at the quality of a print from a well-dialed-in FDM machine (like a Prusa) set to 0.1 or 0.05 layers and decide if you can deal with that. If that's sharp enough, get an FDM and maybe explore ABS and see if you can make it work. If that base resolution is still too low, get an SLA instead.
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Apr 28, 2018 10:20
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My hypercube parts are coming in and I am assembling it slowly Parts have been shittily printed due to my buggered printer but I'm hoping I can get away with it well enough to print out replacement parts for itself that are less buggered. 
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Apr 28, 2018 12:40
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Jestery posted:My hypercube parts are coming in and I am assembling it slowly I haven’t had much luck printing with chewed bubblegum either, so I don’t think it’s a problem with your printer.
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Apr 28, 2018 13:35
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Jestery posted:My hypercube parts are coming in and I am assembling it slowly You should keep your kid from playing with your prints! I think they left some on the heater.
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Apr 28, 2018 14:09
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Believe me I know I'm not winning any awards for appearance. With my printer's busted z - axis i can only print reliebly at 0.5mm so as to power through the rough sections as quickly as possible. I'm being a cheap bugger and seeing I've I can pull off a full self repair/ self rebuild before I inevitably get someone else to print off the pieces for me.
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Apr 28, 2018 16:11
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Booyah- posted:I've been experimenting with 3d printing tabletop miniatures terrain and it's not going as well as I'd hoped. Covering up or sanding away the layers can be really tough or even impossible depending on the print. If anyone has tips I'm all ears. Honestly for miniatures themselves your better off just putting up the extra cash and getting a DLP or SLA printer. I'd stick with FDM for 90% of terrain though, just use some filler primer instead of normal primer.
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Apr 28, 2018 17:43
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They did mention not wanting to mess with a lot of post processing and if that's the case then as an SLA owner I'd not suggest an SLA unless one changes their mind and prioritizes results quality of minis well above print post-processing.
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Apr 28, 2018 17:51
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If any goons here live in that region, what are some good vendors that offer low shipping/support for Austria? I'd like to check different stores but I don't really know what's out there. For everyone else, has anyone here had experience with the Anycubic i3 or the Creality Ender 2? Looking at the available printers on Amazon, these seemed like the best one I could find for my price range of $300 max, filament excluded.
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Apr 28, 2018 20:25
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Mister Sinewave posted:They did mention not wanting to mess with a lot of post processing and if that's the case then as an SLA owner I'd not suggest an SLA unless one changes their mind and prioritizes results quality of minis well above print post-processing. This guy is right. Post processing is optional but that's the only way to get non-blobby models because you decided to not rinse it off in a bath of IPA and then put it under a UV light to fully cure it. Plus the price of resin is falling but still waaaay more expensive when compared to normal filament for FDM. There is a Monoprice SLA for 499 but nowhere near the dimensions the original questioner was looking for.
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Apr 28, 2018 22:37
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Cleaning is one thing but dealing with support trimming is another as well. Minis tend to have lots of thin bits sticking out and stuff. Resin stuff is great but there's definitely a post print ecosystem and finishing process attached to those results.
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Apr 28, 2018 23:10
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I'd just use something like http://dangerousprototypes.com/store/print3d I've had stuff SLA printed in China and they've been great; they're even hand finished (trimmed and I guess media blasted).
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Apr 29, 2018 00:20
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Hey that's pretty cool!
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Apr 29, 2018 03:07
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I discovered Thingverse today and saw all the cool gaming objects you can download and print. Can anyone recommend a starter guide website or something that can explain what it takes to get into 3d printing?
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Apr 29, 2018 04:26
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clockworkjoe posted:I discovered Thingverse today and saw all the cool gaming objects you can download and print. Can anyone recommend a starter guide website or something that can explain what it takes to get into 3d printing? Try out yeggi.com as well which is a search of searches for models across multiple sites. Make sure to click "Search Options" and select "Free" because you will get models that can be gotten elsewhere for free priced at bullshit prices. The answer to your question is money and patience and their sort of inverse ratio. You don't have a lot of money, then get a 200-300 printer but be prepared to spend lots of time troubleshooting things. If you have 700-900, then get something like a Prusa MK3 which has so many features in it to save time (like automatically detecting crashes ie when the extruder head hits an object and can't move anymore or recovering from a power outage). I know this video might seem like a downer, but it tells you what to expect when you get a printer especially with the fact that it's going to be work to keep it running. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wLJhfhrVK2U But it is cool to print out something of your own design in the end. In other news, doing Flexfill filament for the first time and I set the temperature too high. How high? So high the filament pulled out of the hotend and wrapped itself around the extruder gear. Thank god it was a mk3 and was able to stop it when it noticed it did that. Practicing with a white Flexfill filament but I found the perfect model; a tiny mummy. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2883919 EVIL Gibson fucked around with this message at 20:48 on Apr 29, 2018 |
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Apr 29, 2018 20:45
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I used part of my tax return to restock some of my filament, for the first time since I got into 3D printing over a year ago. I figured when I did this, I may as well also build a dry box!  It's got a rechargeable desiccant and a humidity sensor is coming later in the week. Models used: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2700440 - Feeder https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1511834 - PVC mount Tube joiner that I just designed today  Painters tape covers up the screw holes for three additional feeders I can install later. I haven't been using my 3D printer much lately, save for the cat toy fishing poll I printed last month. I expect this will get me going again.
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Apr 29, 2018 22:13
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