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MrYenko posted:Check the easy stuff first. Make sure the fuel filter(s) are clean and flowing freely. Check and see if there's an evap valve or something on that model that is known to go bad. Make sure you top off the electrical smoke reservoir with genuine Lucas electrical smoke fluid. A new fuel filter is already installed, leading me to believe the only thing left is the stuff that's actually inside the tank (either the pump or the filter directly affixed to it). If I go down that hole I may as well just replace the pump since it's so difficult to get at. Again, though, this is assuming the fuel pump is intended to be essentially silent. As for the Lucas fluid this Jaguar is from the Ford years so I'm hoping I can sub Motorcraft.
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Apr 28, 2018 16:34
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sarcastx posted:A new fuel filter is already installed, leading me to believe the only thing left is the stuff that's actually inside the tank (either the pump or the filter directly affixed to it). If I go down that hole I may as well just replace the pump since it's so difficult to get at. Again, though, this is assuming the fuel pump is intended to be essentially silent. As for the Lucas fluid this Jaguar is from the Ford years so I'm hoping I can sub Motorcraft. Ive seen dirty in-tank pump socks causing those kind of issues, but its generally in much older cars with rusty fuel tanks. And ya, if youre going to the trouble of dropping the tank to inspect the sock, do the right thing and swap the whole unit. Motorcraft fluid will work, but it wont give the same wonderful scent of ozone and disappointment as the real Lucas stuff will.
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Apr 28, 2018 17:14
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Dennis McClaren posted:I googled this but only found commercial application results. Makes me feel like I'm getting double-punked
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Apr 28, 2018 17:55
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These newer cars have the smoke fluid built in to the insulation
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Apr 28, 2018 18:25
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Nyyen posted:I've got some questions about utility vans and need to make sure I'm not being an idiot.
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Apr 29, 2018 01:20
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I don't know what I did but the odometer works today. 
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Apr 29, 2018 01:55
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You threatened it with permanent dismembermemt. It's a time-honoured repair technique.
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Apr 29, 2018 07:01
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I guess every failing part gets to sit on the desk for an evening with a view of me googling for its replacement from now on.
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Apr 29, 2018 07:25
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The only way to guarantee that the odometer keeps working is to spend an absurd amount of money &/or time acquiring another unit. It'll know. You'll never need it.
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Apr 29, 2018 08:27
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2000 Toyota Corolla CE, automatic 1.8L w/ 160k miles. It has had the check engine light on for about a year. Finally have to get inspection again so I gotta get it up to standards. Spent a bunch of money on it last weekend getting the Mass Air Flow Sensor replaced, and a fuel system cleaning. On my way home last night the engine light came back on, about ~100 miles after the repair. I'm not sure if I should keep spending money trying to fix it or start looking for a new vehicle. Any suggestions? New gas cap?
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Apr 29, 2018 13:40
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Christ, it never rains it pours. 2002 Toyota Corolla (zze122r) 1ZZ-FE Hot Start Issue. Picked up the car from the airport where it had been sitting for 36+ hours. No trouble starting at all. Drove ~30 mins, stopped to get beer and the car simply wouldn't crank. After throwing my hands in the air, opening the bonnet and checking the battery leads were in fact connected, it cranked and started fine. I've noticed the car being a little reluctant to crank as an intermittent issue since I've owned the car (2 years) but never to this degree. I can get 30% off on a new battery tomorrow (1 day deal at Repco) but I'm not sure that's the issue. Googling hot start issues suggests either starter motor getting heat soaked or possibly corroded battery cables. I'm unemployed at the moment so I don't want to go throwing money at replacing everything unless I can be sure.
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Apr 29, 2018 13:47
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slothrop posted:Christ, it never rains it pours. It's not the battery. Starter or starter relay; they can get more susceptible to heat-soaking as the electric bits wear. Wouldn't be a bad idea to wire-brush your electrical connections while you're at it.
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Apr 29, 2018 14:38
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On that note if your starter has a compatible relay elsewhere try swapping them and see if the problem goes away. If it doesn't I'd suspect the starter.
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Apr 29, 2018 15:41
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Javid posted:I don't know what I did but the odometer works today. Did you cut yourself somehow? That usually solves mystery problems, in my experience. Lube banjo posted:2000 Toyota Corolla CE, automatic 1.8L w/ 160k miles. It has had the check engine light on for about a year. Finally have to get inspection again so I gotta get it up to standards. Find out why the check engine light is on. If you're not in California, go to any parts store and they'll scan the codes for free. Even better, spend $25 on a wifi scanner and phone app and do it yourself forever.
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Apr 29, 2018 17:04
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So haven't sold a car in a while on cl perhaps I'm too old but people keep asking me to send them my Vin number. Is this a new thing or a scam?
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Apr 29, 2018 17:38
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It's normal. If I'm shopping for something above beater status I want the VIN to run a car fax or equivalent to see if any red flags pop up, also to check if it's listed somewhere else under the same VIN. With Porsches you also can use it to look up the cars MSRP and originally ordered options. I think I've heard that Chevy has a similar service available.
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Apr 29, 2018 17:48
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Jeep does as well. Is there anything nefarious that can actually be done with a VIN? Anything with a modern VIN has it stuck on the cowl in a publicly-viewable space anyway.
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Apr 29, 2018 18:24
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Also Lexus has the punch-in-the-VIN-to-see-the-history service. ~Free~
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Apr 29, 2018 18:27
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IOwnCalculus posted:Jeep does as well. New scam listings, I guess.
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Apr 29, 2018 18:57
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Stupid question about stupid brake drum shoes. How much more life do you guys figure these drum shoes have left? 2007 Corolla LE. I'm hoping that they've got another 2 years left in them. Mostly because drum shoes are annoyingly difficult to replace and I'd like to put off this task for another summer.
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Apr 29, 2018 20:57
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MORE RAM VAN BULLSHIT Was in Auto zone for something unrelated. Go out, van won't start. Auto zone dude hooks up their battery tester, says the battery has a bad cell. Jumps me, van starts. I go to Walmart with the battery reciept, their tester says it's fine, dude refuses to replace the battery under warranty. Claims it's probably the starter. Now the van starts but I'm paranoid that it won't next time. What even the gently caress.
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Apr 29, 2018 21:43
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Javid posted:MORE RAM VAN BULLSHIT Buy a voltmeter and measure the voltage across the battery terminals. A bad cell will cause the voltage to be well below 12. One of those idiots doesn't know how to work their idiot machines. I've seen auto parts store guy not know how to pull codes on an OBDII port.
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Apr 29, 2018 21:56
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Running: Freshly shut off:  (slowly ticking down though - I should probably measure it again in a bit?) E: after ~20 minutes it's sitting at  I can't say I'm any better equipped to work this device than they are theirs, though. Javid fucked around with this message at 23:21 on Apr 29, 2018 |
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Apr 29, 2018 22:46
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My utter shite air compressor finally died (or rather it started smoking and I shut it down). It was just a small one for inflating tires. Any recommendations for a good one or perhaps sell me on upgrading to a 5gal(?) compressor that runs on 110v?
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Apr 29, 2018 22:48
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tangy yet delightful posted:My utter shite air compressor finally died (or rather it started smoking and I shut it down). It was just a small one for inflating tires. I'm a big fan of having a 12v one for the boot, even though you'll die of boredom before inflating a flat. No brand recommendations, but get a digital one that shuts off at the desired pressure.
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Apr 29, 2018 22:57
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Any Viair will last you a long time and they're awesome.
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Apr 29, 2018 23:33
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Javid posted:E: after ~20 minutes it's sitting at If it's dropping that much you might want to do a battery drain test and see how much current is being drawn from the battery while the vehicle sits. Suspension question: Didn't someone here use FCS quickstruts on a car recently? The CRV is due for some new struts and the FCS parts seem like quite a deal compared to trying to piece together a full kit. I learned my lesson on the MS3 that I want to replace all the related parts, not just the strut itself. They also seem to be the only manufacturer making complete assemblies for the front and rear. Metal Geir Skogul posted:Any Viair will last you a long time and they're awesome. Also, this. If you don't need it immediately they do go on sale from time to time, or you can pick one up used. They're well built enough I wouldn't expect a used one to have any appreciable wear unless it was literally just run non-stop. Of course all compressors have limits. My Viair 88p takes a lot longer on refilling the fourth tire because it's scorching loving hot by then.
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Apr 30, 2018 00:04
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Is there some clever way to remove a snap ring without the specialized tool? I just got back from Autozone and stubbornness dictates I need to try to get this thing off without going back for a new tool.
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Apr 30, 2018 00:16
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bawfuls posted:Is there some clever way to remove a snap ring without the specialized tool? I just got back from Autozone and stubbornness dictates I need to try to get this thing off without going back for a new tool. If it's big enough you can use a pair of needle nose pliers. Otherwise snap ring pliers aren't exactly hard to find or expensive. Javid posted:Running: What does it do when you try to turn the engine over?
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Apr 30, 2018 00:27
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Javid posted:Running: I believe an initial drop like that is normal just after a charge, but if it keeps going down you have a problem either with the battery or the electrics. Try testing it again in a couple hours (Disconnected to eliminate the van drawing power). It is also entirely possible there is a terminal connection issue as well, we've had a couple batteries that would only work some of the time since the terminals had a bad connection internally.
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Apr 30, 2018 00:33
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Geoj posted:
It only failed to start the one time; about 2 minutes earlier it fired right up, and I've stopped and started it twice since. Autoexec.bat posted:I believe an initial drop like that is normal just after a charge, but if it keeps going down you have a problem either with the battery or the electrics. Try testing it again in a couple hours (Disconnected to eliminate the van drawing power). It is also entirely possible there is a terminal connection issue as well, we've had a couple batteries that would only work some of the time since the terminals had a bad connection internally. Yeah, it drops down to 13 pretty quick then stays there.
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Apr 30, 2018 00:35
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bawfuls posted:Is there some clever way to remove a snap ring without the specialized tool? I just got back from Autozone and stubbornness dictates I need to try to get this thing off without going back for a new tool. I have personally taken one off using a couple flat head screwdrivers by prying one under one side and working around using the other but I do not recommend. It is easier and possibly faster to just go get the tool. Edit: Wear safety glasses if you attempt this! They are spring loaded and can go wherever they like, quite quickly. As for the van it is hard to say the cause. Since a jump worked fine I would hazard it's the battery and not the starter because jumping a bad starter does diddly. Although you may want to look at the starter relay like the person upthread. My 85 Chrysler had most of its underhood relays turn out to be bad or intermittent since they are the older mechanically activated type. Putting extra voltage through them often made them work for a time but they got worse quite quickly. Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 02:23 on Apr 30, 2018 |
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Apr 30, 2018 00:47
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Thanks guys I'll pick up a Viair it looks like.
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Apr 30, 2018 00:52
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Javid posted:It only failed to start the one time; about 2 minutes earlier it fired right up, and I've stopped and started it twice since. I should have been more clear - I meant what does the volt meter do when you turn it over? I've seen batteries with failed or internally shorted cells appear fine when checked with a volt meter, but then fall flat on their face when you try to start the engine.
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Apr 30, 2018 01:13
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Wear safety glasses if you're trying to pry snap rings off with a screwdriver!
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Apr 30, 2018 01:52
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Geoj posted:I should have been more clear - I meant what does the volt meter do when you turn it over? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Z8zbgqPEac HOWEVER Autoexec.bat posted:Although you may want to look at the starter relay like the person upthread. My 85 Chrysler had most of its underhood relays turn out to be bad or intermittent since they are the older mechanically activated type. Putting extra voltage through them often made them work for a time but they got worse quite quickly. The time it failed to start I was getting a clickclickclick from the dash, which turns out to be about where on the firewall the relay is once I looked it up in the haynes book. A new one is $5 from rockauto and it looks like a quick replacement so I'll give that a shot.
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Apr 30, 2018 01:58
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shovelbum posted:Wear safety glasses if you're trying to pry snap rings off with a screwdriver! Yeah sorry I should have mentioned that part, they behave an awful lot like Jesus clips. Edited my above post to reflect this. On the van, I just looked at a picture of your starter relay. You have the same type as mine, they are terrible relays in pretty much every way and don't hold up well to age however you can sometimes pop the tin lid off and smell the burned coil to check them. The clicking is normal however since that's how they work. Doesn't mean it's good though since when the coil burns up the connector being pulled doesn't make good contact and combined with corrosion just doesn't pass through enough/any power. As they degrade further they randomly stop generating enough force to pull the connection together at all. If you get stuck again you can try tapping the relay with a wrench while someone cranks to activate it. I would still explore the battery thing just in case your relay is fine. Edit: 
Autoexec.bat fucked around with this message at 03:38 on Apr 30, 2018 |
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Apr 30, 2018 02:18
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Im running a GM TBI setup on my International and its giving me a strange pulsing or oscillating idle that Im not sure how to diagnose. System is typical of a 1991 Chevy 5.7. At idle in closed loop the rpms go from around 1150 to suddenly down to 700 via a sharp cut and the O2 voltage drops from 1.000 to .200 for a moment. The ecm is trimming fuel at idle and Ive been remapping it down in small increments, but it runs smoothly at 650 rpm in open mode. I had to hang it up for the day but by the end the INT was right around 128 but it was still pulsing. I interpreted that to mean the fuel map is close but theres some kind of other problem causing it to bounce. Im now wondering if I have the throttle plates closed too far, or if I have a bad TPS or IAC.
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Apr 30, 2018 04:37
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The autozone tester doesn't tell you if there's a bad cell or not; it just tests the battery under load and whether it holds up. The results literally say "Good Battery" or "Bad Battery."
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Apr 30, 2018 07:58
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Sanity Check please: I diagnosed the no start issue on my e36 as a bad Crank Angle Sensor and ordered and new one. The old one had no continuity when tested with a multimeter, should read 550 ohms. Got the new part to swap it in today and checked it out of the car and it gave the same reading as the old part, no continuity/open circuit. After a bit of ringing around, a local place got a part in for me today and at a better price than what I got online. Only problem is I get the SAME reading with the multimeter. I checked the Cam Sensor which is in the car and get within ~10% of the expected Ohm values, certainly no problem with the continuity test. I wondered if the Crank sensor needed to be in place to read correctly but even installed into the car with the bolt holding it in place I still get no continuity/reading. I just want to make sure I'm not missing something silly before going back for ANOTHER sensor. The second one is a VDO brand which is a OEM replacement, I would have thought they'd have decent QC.
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Apr 30, 2018 08:15
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