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Geoj posted:P0420 means the computer is not seeing enough of a difference between the upstream and downstream O2 sensors. Generally (but not always) the post-cat sensor exists only to check if the catalytic converter is working correctly, so as far as the vehicle is concerned you should be OK to drive it. Then it sounds like it's time for me to order my sticker 
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May 1, 2018 19:58
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Wait, how did you license the car if you never registered it? I'm entirely ignorant on this. The only thing I did was let GEICO know I got a new car and transferred my insurance over. When I bought the car with the private seller I signed the documents transferring the title. So uh, I dunno?
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May 1, 2018 19:59
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And if you REALLY need to drive the car or get it past emissions, and are sure that the sensors, intake, and exhaust tract are good and leak-free, they make $5 products to help you. "Spark Plug anti-foulers." Don't use them on post-cat O2 sensors to space them out and give a valid reading  Fat_Cow posted:I'm entirely ignorant on this. The only thing I did was let GEICO know I got a new car and transferred my insurance over. When I bought the car with the private seller I signed the documents transferring the title. So uh, I dunno? Are you serious?  Listen, uhh, are you in the US? When you buy a car, you have to let the state know, and then register the car with the state. This puts the car in your name, and they give you a license plate and registration expiration date tags that go on the car. That car is now registered to you. What are the current plates on the car? When is it's current expiration? As far as the state knows (in most places), that car still belongs to whatever schlep you bought it from. That's why, when you sell a car, most state titles or MVD/DMVs have a way to mail/email in a form letting the state know you sold the car. It's called a "release of liability" in a lot of places, and it's specifically to cover the seller's rear end in this scenario. If they didn't, and you got in a wreck and abandoned the car, there's no way (besides an insurance subpoena) for the state to know that it still doesn't belong to the guy you bought it from. Any jabroni can get insurance for any car. I could walk up to your car right now, read the VIN off of the plate on the dash, and buy insurance. That's nothing, and doesn't matter. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 20:04 on May 1, 2018 |
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May 1, 2018 19:59
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Fat_Cow posted:I'm entirely ignorant on this. The only thing I did was let GEICO know I got a new car and transferred my insurance over. When I bought the car with the private seller I signed the documents transferring the title. So uh, I dunno? What license plate is the lemon wearing? Did you pull the plate off of the wreck and put it on the lemon? Where are you, registration is separate from insurance and is (usually) done through the state / province government.
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May 1, 2018 20:02
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ExecuDork posted:What license plate is the lemon wearing? Did you pull the plate off of the wreck and put it on the lemon? Where are you, registration is separate from insurance and is (usually) done through the state / province government. Yeah I pulled the plate off my wreck and put it on the lemon Metal Geir Skogul posted:
Yeah the US, North Carolina. Right then, Guess I'll be busy after work today getting all this sorted out appreciate the help.
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May 1, 2018 20:17
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NC has some of the most restrictive state vehicle laws, you might get asshammered.
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May 1, 2018 20:20
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Yeah, that's a good idea to do. If you get pulled over right now with a plate that doesn't match the car, it' can be seen as technically a stolen plate and you can get hosed up financially and legally based on how the cop feels that day. IANAL, but right now it seems you are driving on a fictitious or altered registration (NC law website), as well as "borrowing a plate," which are both class 2 misdemeanors and carry a max penalty (each) of 60 days/$1000. Do not drive that car to the courthouse/DMV. I did the same thing simply for a drive home after picking up a pennysaver car when I was much younger and I ended up surrounded by four cop cars and screamed at to keep my hands on the wheel and throw my wallet out of the window. They had recorded the wrecked car already and then saw the plate. Bad day. Right now, you technically don't own the car until you actually get the title transferred (which includes registration). As a seller I would record a copy of all of the information when I sold a car, but it's up to the buyer to actually follow through. Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 20:25 on May 1, 2018 |
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May 1, 2018 20:21
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:Yeah, that's a good idea to do. If you get pulled over right now with a plate that doesn't match the car, it' can be seen as technically a stolen plate and you can get hosed up financially and legally based on how the cop feels that day. IANAL, but right now it seems you are driving on a fictitious or altered registration (NC law website), as well as "borrowing a plate," which are both class 2 misdemeanors and carry a max penalty (each) of 60 days/$1000. Do not drive that car to the courthouse/DMV. Okay, so going through all my document photos I took of the transaction I have all the documents NC requires to register the car. I'll head up to the DMV tomorrow driving my friend's car; will I get a temporary registration or can they provide me with a new one right there?
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May 1, 2018 20:32
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Depends on the state. Oregon let me get a temporary registration at a DMV when I bought a car up there for a fly/drive, Arizona lets you do it online and just print it out. Best bet is to stick with your current plan: hit up the DMV and register it. If everything is in order some states print out a title right there (Arizona), but other states give you a 30/60/90 day temporary and mail you a new title (Idaho).
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May 1, 2018 20:35
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Wait nevermind found it: https://www.ncdot.gov/dmv/vehicle/plates/transfer/ this is what I am looking for correct?
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May 1, 2018 20:38
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Fat_Cow posted:Wait nevermind found it: https://www.ncdot.gov/dmv/vehicle/plates/transfer/ this is what I am looking for correct? You need to get the car inspected. Take the inspection paperwork, and your insurance paperwork with you to the DMV. You will have to pay your registration fee and taxes to the DMV for the lemon. Then, you'll likely be given a temporary registration. In Texas, they give you new license plates that very same day you register your vehicle. Probably not in N.C. ; so they might issue you temporary paper plates, and then you'd get your real new plates in the mail within a few weeks (or pick them up, w.e.)
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May 1, 2018 20:49
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:NC has some of the most restrictive state vehicle laws, you might get asshammered. Yeah NC is horrible there's basically no way to buy a car here person to person unless you have continued access or get it shipped, and to buy out of state, lol
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May 1, 2018 20:54
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Hi! I'm considering buying a 2012 Hyundai Elantra GLS, and when I went to take it for a test drive it drove fine but when the engine was heating up it made a clicking or ticking noise. I couldn't notice it when driving or accelerating, but after we got back it sat for a few minutes and then I took this recording after it started back up (ignore me saying 90 heh) https://vocaroo.com/i/s1B1SuZt44me This is the first year they had the 2.0 in the GLS I think, and from some quick research it seems like both a common issue and potentially a costly fix, or just how it is? Any tips or opinions would be appreciated, thanks!
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May 2, 2018 02:29
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A chattering when starting cold is almost always valve noise. I googled for a bit and apparently it's very common on those cars and some people have said they've got it to disappear by running a lighter oil and a Hyundai OEM filter. I would stay away from a car that chatters unless I was getting it for a song.
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May 2, 2018 03:14
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Don't buy it. They have an engine flaw, they were manufactured incorrectly and the engine eats itself. My wife's 2013 Elantra has been sitting at the dealer for 2 months waiting for an engine, and they said it'll likely be mid-July if we're lucky before it arrives. That's how backordered they are from so many making GBS threads themselves. http://www.hyundai-forums.com/md-2011-2016-elantra-sedan-coupe/612233-canadians-engine-block-replacement-advice.html http://www.hyundai-forums.com/md-2011-2016-elantra-sedan-coupe/620282-hyundai-told-me-i-need-my-engine-replaced-new-ones-any-better.html http://www.hyundai-forums.com/md-2011-2016-elantra-sedan-coupe/380657-2012-elantra-engine-problem.html e: TSB:  
opengl fucked around with this message at 04:05 on May 2, 2018 |
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May 2, 2018 04:00
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More ram van horrors, with a bonus of me probably being in over my head in an electrical issue. Back story: Blower motor was fried upon purchase, finally got around to installing the new one today. Good news! It works and blows air! Bad news! I don't know what the gently caress PO did under the dash, but the fan has two speeds and none of them are "off". Anytime the key is on the fan is spinning. There is a four position fan speed knob on the HVAC controls, and those positions are, apparently, low-low-medium-low (or med-med-high-med? I have nothing to compare it to). The back has five terminals, one is raw 12v in from the battery, the others are ??? and two of the four are connected to nothing. The hot wire into the blower motor appears to correspond to one of the ones going out from this knob, as far as color, but gently caress knows what's going on in the dash. Main question: how do I even begin unfucking this? Theory 1: Looking on rockauto, there's a control module/resistor for the blower with five terminals.. I'm guessing the 4 terminals on the knob are supposed to go to the 4 on the module, with the 5th one on the end being out to the blower itself? So I should be able to hook the two empty terminals on the knob back up to that module and it SHOULD work again. But then there's also this switch too? (Which my van is missing, but there's a slot where it looks like it might be meant to go) - if the knob controls speed what does this thing do? On/Off shouldn't have 4 terminals. Theory 2: I'm also considering the possibility that pulling this knob and poo poo out and replacing it with something new might be a good idea. HOWEVER however I don't know enough about 12v to actually execute that idea, so welp. E: Illustration! 
Javid fucked around with this message at 05:18 on May 2, 2018 |
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May 2, 2018 05:13
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You would need a wiring diagram to make sense of that. You could do without maybe but it will take a lot more time to figure it out.
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May 2, 2018 08:30
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I don't think you should ever have a fan speed knob and a switch. Looks like the PO disconnected the factory controls and poorly installed the knob. I've got the same cluster. The left side switch should control the fan speed with the the lowest position being off. The horizontal slider should be connected to the louver or damper or whatever it's called to control where the air goes. I believe it's a mechanical assembly and the lever moves a steel cable.
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May 2, 2018 12:17
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My 2005 base model Civic with the 1.7 is suddenly taking twenty minutes plus before the heater moves any warm air. I realize they aren't actuate but the temp gauge indicates the vehicle is warned up long before that and not overheating. Any idea what might have broken?
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May 2, 2018 12:27
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Yeah there is no knob on those HVAC controls, you prob need to find an OEM assembly. As for the wiring the factory service manuals are great for that and I got a full set for $40 off ebay.
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May 2, 2018 12:48
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DonkeyHotay posted:My 2005 base model Civic with the 1.7 is suddenly taking twenty minutes plus before the heater moves any warm air. I realize they aren't actuate but the temp gauge indicates the vehicle is warned up long before that and not overheating. Any idea what might have broken? Probably a clogged heater core. When did the coolant get flushed last?
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May 2, 2018 13:17
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wesleywillis posted:Probably a clogged heater core. When did the coolant get flushed last? I had it done summer 2016.
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May 2, 2018 13:38
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didnt know so many other people had corollas. I got AAA and drove to Cleveland, car was fine. ... But now the lights on my dashboard and stick shift dont turn on. A few people mentioned that it is probably a fuse. I tried googling the issue, but I mainly got results for changing the lightbulb on the dash. Its unlikely that the bulb for both went out at the same time right? Before the lights were a little faded on one side, but I never did anything about it. I attempted to look at the box that holds the fuses (i think, there are just smaller boxes some labeled SIEMENS) but i didnt really know how to diagnose the issue or what to look for 2000 Toyota corolla 140k
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May 2, 2018 13:45
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You'll need to find the in-cabin fusebox somewhere under the dash on the driver's side. There should be a cover telling you what fuse is what. Find the one that seems to control that and pull it out using some small pliers. If the wire in the fuse is broken it needs replacing. Also if one side of your dash lights were dimmer you prob have an out bulb as well.
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May 2, 2018 15:20
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Also try messing with the instrument brightness knob. Mine developed a dead spot at the brightest point, so I just lower the brightness slightly and they work fine.
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May 2, 2018 18:12
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Breakfast Feud posted:I don't think you should ever have a fan speed knob and a switch. Looks like the PO disconnected the factory controls and poorly installed the knob. I've got the same cluster. The left side switch should control the fan speed with the the lowest position being off. The horizontal slider should be connected to the louver or damper or whatever it's called to control where the air goes. I believe it's a mechanical assembly and the lever moves a steel cable. Yeah the top slider is a cable to a lever on the big black box containing the HVAC stuff. The cable is seized and bent so I have to move the lever under the hood if I want to go from hot to cold. On my list to harvest if I find a junkyard van to vulture. So I'm thinking my easiest fix here might be to throw a switch into the circuit so I can shut the fan off, and at least have two speeds until I can properly unfuck things. I'll take "it blows air" and work on the rest of the system first, like seeing if the AC just needs a charge or if anything is hosed there, and what even the deal is with the rear AC unit.
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May 2, 2018 18:34
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Javid posted:E: Illustration! The good news here is that I guess Dodge put this into their most abundant and common vehicles of the 1980's, so you shouldn't have too much trouble finding a wreck at a junkyard with a complete unit you could pull, to help figure out the wiring and make sure you have all the parts. Edgar Allan Pwned posted:2000 Toyota corolla 140k https://www.carcarekiosk.com/video/1999_Toyota_Corolla_CE_1.8L_4_Cyl./fuse_interior/replace
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May 2, 2018 18:37
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Edgar Allan Pwned posted:But now the lights on my dashboard and stick shift dont turn on. A few people mentioned that it is probably a fuse. I tried googling the issue, but I mainly got results for changing the lightbulb on the dash. Its unlikely that the bulb for both went out at the same time right? Before the lights were a little faded on one side, but I never did anything about it. See if your parking lights are coming on with your headlights. If they aren't, the fuse for those is blown, or the headlight switch is dying. There's 2 fuse boxes... it sounds like you found the one under the hood. There's another under the dash. There's multiple light bulbs that light up the dash, btw. Pretty unlikely for all of them to go at once.
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May 2, 2018 20:29
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1990 Toyota Crown Royal Saloon with the 1JZ-GE Schematics and part numbers can easily be found here. It has an erratic idle when the engine starts to warm up. When first started it idles fine, but as soon as some heat gets into the engine (around 4 minutes or so idling) it starts to awkwardly surge, sometimes enough to stall it. It still has the surging even if I press the accelerator down giving it more fuel. It does not change weather it is in gear or not. Another symptom of this is that it seems like there is much more water vapor coming out of the tailpipe during the surges, enough to leave a wet spot on the ground underneath the tailpipe. There doesn't seem to be a pattern or reason beyond the engine warming. It does not seem to get better or worse from this point on. It does not overheat, all the electricals are working, no warning lights in the dash and no leaks of any kind. There is no indication of coolant in the oil nor oil in the coolant, the coolant level stays steady. About a month before the surging issue I had replaced the water pump, timing belt, changed the oil (10W30 as recommended in the tyte JDM owners manual) and (as a consequence of the timing belt and water pump) changed the coolant. There was an oxygen sensor that was disconnected (just after the headers) causing the car to run rich all the time. Reconnecting this fixed the rich-all-the-time fuel thing, and about a week of driving after this the surging started happening. I replaced the fuel filter (cheap and easy) thinking that maybe now that it isn't asking for a ton of fuel all the time that a clogged up filter would cause the issue. I've got a new OEM fuel filter in there and there is zero change, still surges just like before. Since I am not a mechanic I don't have the wisdom to 'feel' what this could possibly be, and considering it's a JDM import here in the USA I can't easily look for information in English. Based on how the symptoms only start when it starts to get warm I have to assume it's some sort of throttle or temperature sensor, or maybe even some sort of coolant sensor, but again, I don't have the wisdom of working with cars for years to draw upon.
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May 2, 2018 21:50
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Thanks for the replies guys, we decided to go newer and get some remaining warranty.
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May 3, 2018 01:59
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Javid posted:. The horizontal slider controls air temperature. In older Chryslers, it connected to a cable that ran to the heater core valve, and actuated (opened or closed) it, regulating the heat. The vertical switch at the right (which is missing, as you've observed) controlled the fan speed. You could not turn the fan off from this switch; that's what the far-left pushbutton is for. The quickest route to salvation is to pull another of these switch-head units from a similar vehicle at a salvage yard, including all of the connectors and as much of the wire as possible, and pray it is all the same colors. I'm guessing the fan relay/resistor burned out and this was the hillbilly solution. e: beaten like ExecuDork's assistant PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 03:03 on May 3, 2018 |
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May 3, 2018 03:00
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PainterofCrap posted:The horizontal slider controls air temperature. In older Chryslers, it connected to a cable that ran to the heater core valve, and actuated (opened or closed) it, regulating the heat. Yeah, that's this guy here:  The cable is stuck pretty good inside that sleeve, I can make it move with pliers and effort but for the moment it's just easier to turn the valve there with a screwdriver. I can live with that for the moment, until I have time to try and unstick the cable. PainterofCrap posted:The vertical switch at the right (which is missing, as you've observed) controlled the fan speed. You could not turn the fan off from this switch; that's what the far-left pushbutton is for. The buttons up top do not affect the blower being on or off, but they do at least switch me between top/front/bottom vents, so I have that much. PainterofCrap posted:The quickest route to salvation is to pull another of these switch-head units from a similar vehicle at a salvage yard, including all of the connectors and as much of the wire as possible, and pray it is all the same colors. I *think* the resistor module works, because the blower motor spins, and at different speeds based (somewhat) on knob position. The missing switch is $7 on rockauto so it's in my cart for my next big order. Anyway, the on/off problem is fixed.  NEXT PROBLEM: I haven't been trying the A/C buttons because the system is completely empty and I know trying to run it dry like that is no bueno. Is there some test I can perform to make sure nothing is hosed before I spend $whatever to have it charged? This thing has a hilariously huge refrigerant capacity because of reasons* so I don't wanna pay that twice. I hold out hope that nothing's wrong, and it just leaked empty over a few years due to disuse, because the blower motor was apparently broken since before the PO bought it in like 2014. The compressor is  *REASONS:  I have this separate rear AC unit to cool down the camper area, which is COOL AS gently caress but also a complete mystery to me. Could be as little as a separate fan and heat exchanger(probably incorrect part name) but I don't actually know.  Weeeee Javid fucked around with this message at 04:15 on May 3, 2018 |
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May 3, 2018 04:07
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You might try something like this for that cable. https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0182
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May 3, 2018 12:20
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Javid posted:Yeah, that's this guy here: I had a similar failed cable in my '66 Bonneville. Nobody had, or made, the cable set. I built a perfect replacement by purchasing a generic lawnmower throttle cable set at (big box hardware) and sizing it to fit. They're exactly the same. Javid posted:NEXT PROBLEM: I haven't been trying the A/C buttons because the system is completely empty and I know trying to run it dry like that is no bueno. Is there some test I can perform to make sure nothing is hosed before I spend $whatever to have it charged? Are the belts still on the pulley? You may have to manually spin it, since it won't start without a minimum amount of refrigerant pressure in the system. You can try to engage the A/C briefly (REAL briefly) to see if the compressor spins by shorting the plug that mounts on the compressor. That doesn't prove that the compressor isn't boned/worn out, but it's easier than trying to get a band wrench on the capstan to see if it'll rotate. FWIW the V-compressors aren't hideously expensive...but yeah that's a fun job, working in the coal mine. Javid posted:I have this separate rear AC unit to cool down the camper area, which is COOL AS gently caress but also a complete mystery to me. Could be as little as a separate fan and heat exchanger(probably incorrect part name) but I don't actually know. That's all it is. If you do anything at all before recharging the A/C & testing it, it would be to open the case & clean the evaporator (tiny radiator) coils, as they're probably filthy & clogged. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 13:38 on May 3, 2018 |
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May 3, 2018 13:33
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Ah yeah A/C, I need to fix mine too but mine is dealer installed and one of the rubber hoses has a hole in it due to rubbing on the upper motor mount. Good news with that at least is they still sell parts for it since my system was a common conversion in Semis back in the day. I just need to find someone to make me a new hose. Here's my HVAC controller for reference but it is noticeably simpler. It uses those cables too but I need to figure out why my blower spins but nothing comes out of the vents. 
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May 3, 2018 13:56
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After work I took out the associated fuse for the dash/stick shift. It didn't look burned out, but the legs looked white-ish, kind of like corrosion. When I put it back in my lights worked, but I will probably buy new fuses next paycheck. I might buy a large pack and replace any others that look similar. Looking at some of the fuses under the engine, I didn't have the large one for the ABS system. I'm uncertain if the car originally had one, but I will look into if it needs to be replaced. Anyways thanks for the help
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May 3, 2018 17:00
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2012 Mazda MS3. There's a strong coolant smell for a few seconds after starting that goes away for the rest of the drive. I can smell it both inside and outside the car. Looked in and around water pump/thermostat and had the undertray off a couple weekends ago, didn't see any wet spots. What's the most likely place to look next?
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May 3, 2018 18:38
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Phy posted:2012 Mazda MS3. There's a strong coolant smell for a few seconds after starting that goes away for the rest of the drive. I can smell it both inside and outside the car. Looked in and around water pump/thermostat and had the undertray off a couple weekends ago, didn't see any wet spots. What's the most likely place to look next? Heater core?
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May 3, 2018 19:21
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Is the level in the radiator dropping?
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May 3, 2018 19:23
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Last time this happened to me a bottle of used coolant had busted open in my trunk also
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May 3, 2018 19:25
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