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I just ordered a cheap shop fox 6inch jointer. I've never owned or used one, how disappointed will I be?
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May 6, 2018 00:09
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That Works posted:Got a question on assembly. Just a warning here that if your 8' boards are currently dead straight, your shorter boards may not still be straight once you cut them down, because you'll be releasing tensions in the boards and some of them may twist, bend, or cup as you sever those fibers. But yeah that's still probably the right way to go, because those tensions will appear regardless and if you glue them up first and then cut them, maybe you wind up with cracking or splitting somewhere instead? So just be ready to maybe have to plane down boards here and there to get them to be flush and true again after you cut them down.
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May 6, 2018 08:07
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One of the biggest revelations I had after a lifetime of working with computers is how much of construction of all kinds is a process of fixing and covering up the fact that real world materials do not conform to the near-infinite precision I'm used to.
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May 6, 2018 08:46
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Just about every project of mine involves a moment of "ugh" when I remember that boards aren't perfect rectangular cuboids.
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May 6, 2018 09:19
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Yeah. And I've found the answer to many questions of "why do they do that?" is "to cover up the join". Skirting. Architraves. Window sills. Door thresholds. You name it.
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May 6, 2018 09:45
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That Works posted:Got a question on assembly. Have you made sure that your cat will use an enclosed litter box?
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May 6, 2018 11:50
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I’m replacing some screws used to hold down ply flooring and adding some more, to deal with creaks. The ply and most of the joists are new, but some of them are 100+ years old. Do I need to predrill holes? The screw manufacturer (spax) says no in its specs and I’m sure the builders didn’t when they put in their screws, but these are longer and thicker, and I’m an anxious type. Here’s the screws I’m removing and the new ones going in: 
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May 6, 2018 11:56
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Jaded Burnout posted:I’m replacing some screws used to hold down ply flooring and adding some more, to deal with creaks. The ply and most of the joists are new, but some of them are 100+ years old.
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May 6, 2018 12:00
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Stultus Maximus posted:Have you made sure that your cat will use an enclosed litter box? Yep, we've got one made in a rather large closed top plastic bin and one plastic dome type of box and the cats use them all the time. This would just be a bit more spacious and allow us to use the vertical space above as a shelf and tabletop to help with storage / keep the box in areas more discreetly.
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May 6, 2018 12:18
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I am a not even a novice working in less than optimal conditions doing things I have never done before. I wanted to make some mortis and tenon joints for a shelf to hold my center channel, but my skills, tools, and available wood didn't go together well. Rather than have no shelf and develop no skills, I simplified the design and put steel to wood. tiny work space  it stands up  it supports the speaker and doesn't interfere with the TV cables  Just made 4 slots with a saw, chisel, router, etc. Didn't feel confident making any for the stretchers because I suspected small deviations from square would muck it up, so they are just surface glued. Anyway, that's my ugly project.
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May 6, 2018 13:07
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Jaded Burnout posted:I’m replacing some screws used to hold down ply flooring and adding some more, to deal with creaks. The ply and most of the joists are new, but some of them are 100+ years old. hell no do not waste your time pre drilling those unless you start breaking off heads
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May 6, 2018 18:47
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You'd want pilot holes to make sure that the wood isn't going to split on the other side. Spax don't mess around, they rule.
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May 6, 2018 18:52
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I hope you guys don't mind me sharing this video here, but I built a teleprompter (mostly using pine + birch from big orange) and tried to do a combined vlog + how-to guide. I want to do more of these woodwork projects over the summer but also want to know if this style is helpful, what I should do differently, etc. Or if it sucks. Please be blunt. I want to make videos that appeal to filmmakers who want to make their own gear but don't know much about woodworking/DIYing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zvMBdu8Ts6Q
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May 7, 2018 17:30
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I didn't actually watch the video, but I skipped around a bit because I wanted to see the finished product -- and I had trouble actually finding it and seeing it in action. So my main advice would be, always show what you're going to make first in the video, so people will know whether it's worth their time. Nobody's gonna sit through an 8-minute video only to find out at the end that they don't like the result. If you don't show them the result, they'll assume they won't like it, and they won't watch. Grab their attention early or they'll just move on.
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May 7, 2018 17:40
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melon cat posted:I hope you guys don't mind me sharing this video here, but I built a teleprompter (mostly using pine + birch from big orange) and tried to do a combined vlog + how-to guide. I want to do more of these woodwork projects over the summer but also want to know if this style is helpful, what I should do differently, etc. Or if it sucks. Please be blunt. I want to make videos that appeal to filmmakers who want to make their own gear but don't know much about woodworking/DIYing. I liked it overall. Pros: Your voice / camerawork came out quite clear and instructions were to the point and your script more or less was direct. +1 You don't have an annoying youtuber voice. +1000 You have really good hair dude. Go you. Cons: Presentation of the final product was a little lacking. Would have preferred to see something like a long slow pan around the final assembly on the mounting a bit more. As TooMuchAbstraction stated it might have been nice to show the finished product right up front just for a bit then launch into the rest.
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May 7, 2018 17:44
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:I didn't actually watch the video, but I skipped around a bit because I wanted to see the finished product -- and I had trouble actually finding it and seeing it in action. So my main advice would be, always show what you're going to make first in the video, so people will know whether it's worth their time. Nobody's gonna sit through an 8-minute video only to find out at the end that they don't like the result. If you don't show them the result, they'll assume they won't like it, and they won't watch. Grab their attention early or they'll just move on. That Works posted:I liked it overall. But yeah, I totally see where you're coming from re: the presentation of the final product. I feel kinda dumb for not including it. 
melon cat fucked around with this message at 17:55 on May 7, 2018 |
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May 7, 2018 17:52
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I'd like to build something like this: I am thinking about using live edge for the desk piece instead of glued up boards. Any reason not to do that? Also, as someone who is very new to woodworking and has never worked with live edge before, what should I know up front?
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May 7, 2018 18:14
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Not to dissuade you, but that much steel is going to cost more than you expect. Like, potentially add a zero. E: Which, I mean, you might be well aware. But if you were thinking live-edge wood might be the expensive part of this project, go down to the store and price out the hardware before buying anything else. Huxley fucked around with this message at 18:26 on May 7, 2018 |
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May 7, 2018 18:24
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Mikey Purp posted:I'd like to build something like this: I have a friend who made one of these. All live edge. In the end it cost around $1000 and he could have purchased one from etsy for a bit less.
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May 7, 2018 18:35
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Huxley posted:Not to dissuade you, but that much steel is going to cost more than you expect. Eh, I priced it out using black plumbing pipe from Zoro and it isn't that bad. Enough pipe to fit my dimensions would be about $300 shipped. E: In any case, my concern isn't so much the cost as much as it is the difficulty of working with live edge for someone with not a ton of experience. loving up a piece of plywood is one thing, but ruining a piece of wood that cost a couple hundred bucks would hurt. Mikey Purp fucked around with this message at 18:42 on May 7, 2018 |
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May 7, 2018 18:39
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Carry on then, friend!
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May 7, 2018 18:42
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Do you have any specific questions? That particular design doesn't do anything to prevent wood movement, so expect some warping for a couple years until it settles. I think live edge slabs tend to be sold wetter, so it may be an even larger problem. Otherwise it's nothing special afaik, especially if you are able to establish one of the edges as a reference edge.
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May 7, 2018 18:51
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Hmm, warping wouldn't be ideal for a desktop. Is there anything I could do to modify the design to try to stop that from happening? More generally, what is the general process when milling live-edge wood? Is there any special equipment required? Any youtube vids or blogs that I should check out that have step by step guides? Lastly, an even more general question - right now I don't have any tools for planing or jointing. I assume I can get by with a jointer jig for my table saw and a router jig for planing?
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May 7, 2018 19:19
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Boards will expand/contract on the width, not the length. If you make the holes for the piping a bit too large you shouldn't run into major problems with movement, I don't think. If you want to be extra sure, add some bracing on the underside of the table.
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May 7, 2018 19:23
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You aren't going to stop the wood from moving, you just design the thing so that any movement that does occur isn't problematic. The biggest aspect of movement occurs while the wood dries, which is why ColdPie's comment on the wood being sold wet is significant. As the wood dries, it moves, so if you get it all flat and square while it's drying, it's not going to be flat and square later. Even if you let it dry out fully before you start work, it can and will still move as ambient humidity changes over time, but not as much as it will when it goes from 30% moisture content down to 8% or whatever. So basically, buy slab, wait 1 year per inch of thickness (very approximately, depends on wood/environment) for it to dry, work the piece into the desired shape, then try to keep it in a stable, climate-controlled environment. Working slabs is tricky due to size, and AIUI they're one area where hand tools, or at least handheld tools (as opposed to table tools) can be preferable. You can flatten them with router jigs, but I don't know that I'd want to try to run a slab through a table saw to get a reference edge.
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May 7, 2018 20:24
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I have a question about woodglue removal and tool usage. I did my edge gluing yesterday for a bunch of my pieces and for the most part was able to wipe out excess glue but for a few pieces that were kind of precarious in the clamps (would pop out of them if I looked at them sideways) I wasn't able to remove glue from one side (pictured below).  So, this has set on them for about 24-36h on a couple of boards. I used Elmers "Carpenters Wood Glue" and it's on yellow pine. Do I just go to town on this with my plane and let it chip this stuff off or should I do something else? Primarily my concern is that running the plane over this might ding up the blade and I just spent all Saturday morning sharpening my planes and chisels and am not sure how nasty dried wood glue is (or isn't) for my tools.  bonus for new sharpening setup which worked out nicely
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May 7, 2018 21:48
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I've always used a paint scraper to remove excess dried glue.
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May 7, 2018 22:06
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Dried glue dulls tools slightly, but not massively and it looks like you have a pretty nice convenient sharpening setup anyways. Plus more practice is always good  The problem with fully dried yellow glue is it's very hard and unsurprisingly, sticks to wood. Scraping it off will usually pull out wood fibers from the bottom of every little droplet. If you have a lot of post-glueup surfacing that might be okay but otherwise you want to sand or cut it off with light handplane passes. Naturally it's way less of a problem on wood that isn't prone to tearout, but on yellow pine or doug fir I'd definitely be a little cautious if your surface is close to finished. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 22:22 on May 7, 2018 |
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May 7, 2018 22:18
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Yeah I did the glueup on those particular pieces (2 out of 6 panels) then went to bed and then had to just now come home from work to finally get them out so this is all too far gone and set up hard to remedy by other means. Maybe I could soften them up a bit with some rubbing alcohol then have a go? I will have a lot of planing to do on these most likely, so a little less worried about tearout within reason. Maybe I will give them a pass with my shittiest block plane and see if it really tears out a lot vs a little. I have 2 paint scrapers, a cheap plastic one that did nothing to the glue and a fairly flimsy metal one that either popped over the glue or jammed immediately underneath it, probably causing more gouging than I want to try to fix.
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May 7, 2018 22:23
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If you gently caress up a blade, you can resharpen it. It's just a question of how much of a pain in the rear end it would be. Paint scrapers or just some lovely chisels are good to have around for stuff like that. My mom bought some HF cheapo chisels after years of pissing off my stepdad and stealing his good chisels for dull work, and she uses 'em all the drat time. Mask talk: I've been using some cheap paper masks for dust protection and they're awful; they fog up my glasses constantly and don't do a good job, as I have a (fairly short) beard. Looking around, one of the 3M full-face respirators or something similar seems like a reasonable choice - they have replaceable cartridges so I could use it for both dust and finishing work, although I do a ton more sanding and grinding than I do finishing at this point. Anyone else with a beard have some input on respirators/dust masks? I don't wear glasses so I don't need to worry about that, luckily.
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May 7, 2018 22:31
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I just took the 1 lovely block plane I have that loving sucks and I hate it and I can't figure out how to make it work well despite sharpening it a bunch etc etc etc (I really hate this thing). Anyway, it knocked off like 75% of the glue just great on 1-2 passes then, as always, decided to just start gouging into places it doesn't belong. So, quick 1-2 passes with the #5, then 2-3 passes with the smoothing plane and it all looks really good. The passes with the good planes didn't really make much of a fuss, only a tiny bit of glue left already smoothed over and no tearout from that as best as I could see. Thankfully I think any wear to the blades themselves was kind of minor. Next time (if I don't prevent the excess glue) I'll keep an eye out for a lovely chisel or two as I bet those could have a lot of other uses as well.
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May 7, 2018 22:53
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A card scraper works pretty well I've found.
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May 7, 2018 22:54
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I use a glue scrapin’ chisel. Found it at a garage sale for $.25
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May 7, 2018 23:01
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swampface posted:A card scraper works pretty well I've found. Yeah this or a paint scraper like GEMorris said. Has a handle and you can resharpen it on a belt sander. No to planes, imo.
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May 8, 2018 00:01
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swampface posted:A card scraper works pretty well I've found. I take it one step further and use a Stanley 80 Cabinet Scraper.
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May 8, 2018 00:23
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Mikey Purp posted:Hmm, warping wouldn't be ideal for a desktop. Is there anything I could do to modify the design to try to stop that from happening? Not without fundamentally changing the design, I think. Joinery helps keep boards flat: breadboard ends help keep a table top from cupping and twisting; mortise and tenon joints do the same for the rails; attaching the top to the frame keeps the top in the same plane as the frame, which isn't susceptible to the same warping. The design you posted has none of that, it's just boards. I don't mean to dissuade you, just heads up that you should expect to have to disassemble and flatten them again a few times. Or maybe you'll get lucky and they'll be well behaved in your climate, who knows.
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May 8, 2018 02:33
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lol if you're not using a veritas bevel up glue scraper
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May 8, 2018 02:38
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ColdPie posted:Not without fundamentally changing the design, I think. Joinery helps keep boards flat: breadboard ends help keep a table top from cupping and twisting; mortise and tenon joints do the same for the rails; attaching the top to the frame keeps the top in the same plane as the frame, which isn't susceptible to the same warping. Depends on the lumber and if it's been properly dried. Some wood tends to twist, some, like Honduran Mahogany- doesn't move.
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May 8, 2018 03:21
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Speaking of wood movement and following up on my previous floor screw question, how concerned do I have to be about expansion and contraction? When originally fitted by the builder the subfloor (tongue & groove designed-for-flooring ply) was screwed in only at one edge. I initially assumed that was the builder being prudent with materials and time but now I'm thinking it may also have been to allow the other edge to expand and contract. The problem is that the floors creak like this, which is why I've been going round replacing his standard screws with specialised flooring screws and adding more to both the opposite edge and middle of the boards. Is this going to cause trouble going forward? The boards have had plenty of time to settle and acclimatise but seasons come and go, and I have underfloor heating.
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May 8, 2018 08:14
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I expect to be sanding lots eventually. Can anyone recommend what mask to get? Is it a bad idea to sand in my home, in a particular room, and keep the door closed, and in general for the sanded wood particles to have settled after a day or so, so I can open the door and let other people/the cat into the room? Or should I just stick to sanding in the garden?
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May 8, 2018 08:35
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