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Reinstalling front control arms with fresh bushings today, and I snapped a bolt head off between the control arm and the ball joint (whatever the base of that hub/strut assembly is). I was using a torque wrench set to the middle of the FSM recommended range spec for this bolt (double checked it after I broke it). Is this just a case of old pieces failing or is it likely I did something stupid? edit: also, recommendations on extracting the broken bolt? There are like two threads on the stub sticking out so I'll try vice grips and sloooooooow to start  edit2: much ado about nothing, this thing came out easily, feels like I dodged a bullet here bawfuls fucked around with this message at 01:05 on May 10, 2018 |
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May 10, 2018 00:46
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You legit got lucky.
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May 10, 2018 01:25
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Godholio posted:You legit got lucky. Twice. The bolt failed when it was being worked on and not on the road. Then it came out easily. Very considerate.
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May 10, 2018 01:34
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Should I seek out new stronger bolts for all the suspension pieces I'm taking out and cleaning up? If so, where is the proper place to find such things?
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May 10, 2018 01:46
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Last post on the van fridge, I promise. New info! The fridge actually has its peak draw on it so I don't have to guess! Using the same calculator I used before: 1.4A @ 115v = 161 watts 5.3A @ 115v = 609 watts Are there losses I'm failing to account for that make the actual inverter draw way higher? It being "only" 610 watts startup draw seems lower than the 1000+ numbers we were throwing around yesterday. (on the other hand the baseline draw is higher, so eh)
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May 10, 2018 01:55
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Brake caliper lube everyone. What's the best to use? Bare in mind that niche brand names probably will not be available in australia. I had to toss most of my stuff when moving house but soon I'm doing a rotor and pad job on my car so I'm just going to buy a small tube of something from the local supercheap in walking distance so type of lube is really what I'm asking. I know most people say don't use regular grease, brake grease or moly as it could ruin rubber dust covers. Most say use either copper anti seize grease or silicone grease (I can get both of these from supercheap). Others are saying ceramic grease (no auto parts store has this but I guess I may find it at a bicycle shop somewhere?) So I'm looking for something to lube the carrier slides and something to put on the back of the pads where the piston is and where the retainer spring is. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 05:31 on May 10, 2018 |
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May 10, 2018 05:14
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Copper grease for the back of the pads and between the caliper and hardware (the metal clips) and then silicone grease (not spray, grease) for the slide pins. Don't put any grease on the brake pad fingers (the slidy bits that go in the hardware clips). It will collect brake dust and road grime. spankmeister fucked around with this message at 07:01 on May 10, 2018 |
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May 10, 2018 06:59
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bawfuls posted:Should I seek out new stronger bolts for all the suspension pieces I'm taking out and cleaning up? If so, where is the proper place to find such things? I would. Bolts shouldn’t shear when you’re tightening them to spec. It can’t really get worse than that.  Bolts have standard grades for strength and it shouldn’t matter where you buy them from, though counterfeits can be found and that’s why yours broke so easily and the ærospace industry pays big bucks for bolts with certificates of authenticity. Auto parts stores and hardware stores carry common sizes. Check the grade markings. Industrial suppliers like McMaster–Carr and Fastenal sell practically everything.
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May 10, 2018 12:37
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spankmeister posted:Copper grease for the back of the pads and between the caliper and hardware (the metal clips) and then silicone grease (not spray, grease) for the slide pins. Thanks, sounds like a plan.
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May 10, 2018 14:21
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Can anyone tell me what are some other models close to a Suzuki Sierra? This kind of thing: https://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/_/SSE-AD-5374446 Like a mini-jeep I guess. 2 door, 4wd, preferably hardtop, but a small size. The Jeep wrangler sounds good, but it just seems bigger than necessary. I just need a a compact, reliable, simple 4wd. The Sierra is perfect, the problem is there's only a handful of them in Australia, so I just want to know if there's anything else I should be looking for. Thanks! 
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May 10, 2018 15:01
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There should be heaps of sierras here. Almost every second mate of mine had one for a short time in the 2000s. Oh, that maybe the problem... Seriously though, they are too cheap a car to be on carsales and paying for ads. Check gumtree. Look for the bigger brother - suzuki vitara (vitaras are huge now and appropriately called grand vitaras, but before 2000 they were only a tiny bit bigger than the sierra) Sierras live on the beach so I would be worried about rust. Maybe consider the less popular daihatsu feroza aka rocky. They're about $2k in WA. A lot of people misspell daihatsu in ads as well, so when searching look for diahatsu as well E: I forgot to write the suzuki relanched the seirra in australia about 20 years ago as the jimny, seem to be low priced as well for a late 90s version https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/coffs-harbour/cars-vans-utes/98-suzuki-jimny-1-3l-4x4/1181999303 There's even a couple for ~$5k on carsales. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 15:42 on May 10, 2018 |
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May 10, 2018 15:32
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2014 Hyundai Accent GLS, 1.6l Gas Engine, Auto transmission, 46k miles I parked the car in the shade, on a 85F, dry day in Sacramento. I had the radio off and the engine and AC running while parked for a few minutes. Turned the ignition off and made a phonecall, about 10 minutes. Decided then to turn ignition over and the car struggled to start but did eventually. I turned it off again and tried to start to see if the behaviour repeated itself. Car would not start after a few attempts; I could hear the starter trying to turn the engine over but no ignition. I took a look under the hood and everything looked fine. After about 5 minutes, car started fine. Plugged in my OBDII and ran Torque and no fault codes. Letting it run a while in case battery was low. Here's the strange part: once the car started all trip meter information was reset (average mpg, average mph, distance travelled, time running) what I can do to further diagnose this? Latest service was an oil change at 45k miles and I just replaced the engine air filter.
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May 10, 2018 18:14
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Test your battery and alternator.
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May 10, 2018 18:17
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spankmeister posted:Test your battery and alternator. I'm still curious why it'd reset my trip meter but not the radio. Anyway, anyone has good recommendations on batteries?
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May 10, 2018 19:04
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It hit that magic sweetspot where the voltage dipped enough to clear the volatile ram you've got in your cluster but not low enough to clear the radio. That or the radio has some more capacitance in the circuit and the droop wasn't low enough for long enough to clear the radio. Either way, new battery time. I suggest Costco for their impeccable treatment of warranty issues and very reasonable pricing.
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May 10, 2018 19:24
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Costco sounds like a good idea. Thank you both for the help!
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May 10, 2018 19:45
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Platystemon posted:I would.   The one that snapped was one of the smaller ones. These are the two sets of bolts that go into that end of the control arm, and the bigger one actually has a slightly lower torque spec. Googling around, I see references to a metric 8.8 spec and 10.9 spec, so I guess I'll try to find the latter.
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May 10, 2018 20:42
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Get something at least grade 8 if you can IMO. That would be 10.9 in metric I think.
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May 10, 2018 20:49
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I was driving home last night when my the gas pedal stopped working, as in I could press it down but it seemed like it wasn't sending gas beyond what gets sent went the motor idles. As I started pulling over, all the dash light came on. The voltage dipped, but my headlights and other lights remained on. I can't remember if it fell below the safe zone on the volt meter or if it was still within the safe zone but at the very bottom of it. I put it in park, shut the lights and engine off and started it again, and it all ran fine, like nothing had happened. I was heading somewhere but just decided to go home in case something else happened, though it was fine for the ten minutes or so it took me to get home. I haven't tried to run it today. This has never happened before. Any ideas what might cause this? I'm guessing it's an electrical issue somewhere, but really have no idea. The car is a 1985 Nissan 200SX, though I'm not sure it really matters aside from it being an older car.
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May 10, 2018 21:05
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I picked up some 10.9 grade bolts to replace the one that broke (and the other 3 like it). Torquing it down and I heard a pop that wasn't from the torque wrench. The lock washer under the bolt head had split, then I pulled the (new, 10.9 grade bolt) out and it looked like this  Which makes me think my torque wrench setting was wrong, but I really wasn't cranking that hard on the thing. This is fishy.
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May 10, 2018 21:19
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I feel like your wrench is hosed, or you're using the wrong torque numbers, or confused inch-lbs with ft-lbs, or something. One failed bolt is a bad bolt, two suggests it isn't the bolt.
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May 10, 2018 21:25
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Yeah I agree. But the wrench is new and I've used it successfully several times in the past week, including just a few minutes before the original bolt failure yesterday to do the other end of the control arm which is a higher torque setting (90 ft lbs). This is 60:
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May 10, 2018 21:32
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bawfuls posted:I picked up some 10.9 grade bolts to replace the one that broke (and the other 3 like it). Torquing it down and I heard a pop that wasn't from the torque wrench. The lock washer under the bolt head had split, then I pulled the (new, 10.9 grade bolt) out and it looked like this Where are you getting your bolts? 60 ft/lbs shouldn't be doing that.
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May 10, 2018 21:54
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These just came from home depot down the street, and they are stamped 10.9 on the head. I can seek out a different source I guess but how likely is it that home depot has a stock of counterfeit bolts?? Is it possible that something about the alignment of the parts or the split washer is putting extra torque on the bolts? The threaded holes on the ball joint piece go all the way through (and I checked that the bolts will thread in from the other side) so it's not like they are bottoming out on something. bawfuls fucked around with this message at 21:59 on May 10, 2018 |
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May 10, 2018 21:57
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Home Depot is not really known for being a supplier of high quality goods, I'd even trust Ace stuff over them. Fastener supply store would be preferable but a lot of them want you to buy in bulk so idk if that's feasible for you.bawfuls posted:Is it possible that something about the alignment of the parts or the split washer is putting extra torque on the bolts? The threaded holes on the ball joint piece go all the way through (and I checked that the bolts will thread in from the other side) so it's not like they are bottoming out on something. As long as they thread down cleanly to where the bolt head sits flush with the part it's clamping, this shouldn't be a problem. Can you manually screw them down by hand, or do they bind/feel corroded?
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May 10, 2018 22:03
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Yes they thread in by hand just fine. Guess I'm headed out to find more bolts. But that's also an unsatisfying solution. On a side note, all the references I've found online show tensile strength specs for the various bolt classifications, but none show torsion or shear specs, which seems weird. Aren't those pretty relevant limits for a bolt??
bawfuls fucked around with this message at 22:16 on May 10, 2018 |
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May 10, 2018 22:06
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Bolts get loaded primarily in tension, there shouldn't be significant amounts of torsion or shear through the shaft in a properly installed bolt. That's why I asked if it was seizing with the head still sticking up; if you apply 60 lb*ft directly onto the bolt shank, it'll absolutely break. The torque should be generated by the bolt head rubbing against the part flange as it spins, not resistance in the threads.
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May 10, 2018 22:22
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So I just tried again on the other side of the car with one small change: did not use the split/lock washers this time. Bolts went in fine and torqued down to 60 without issue. Is the washer really the culprit (not sure why)? Is it stupid to omit lock washers that are supposed to be there?
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May 10, 2018 23:43
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bawfuls posted:They have a 9 stamped on the head (at least... I think that's a 9 not a 6). Hmm, that’s a pretty small bolt. Check your torque specs again. 60 ft-lbs seems high for a bolt that size.
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May 10, 2018 23:52
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Platystemon posted:Hmm, that’s a pretty small bolt. Check your torque specs again. 60 ft-lbs seems high for a bolt that size. I agree it seems high for a bolt that size. Here's the page out of the FSM:  I may be identifying it wrong, but I don't see any other candidates for this bolt on the diagram but C. Here they are in the car, from below and from the side:  
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May 11, 2018 00:42
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About two and a half years ago I replaced all the front suspension on my 2002 Ranger 2wd. I did it shade-tree, after research, and I wasn't confident in my skill but by the end thought it turned out pretty well. This week, while trying to get a wheel replaced that had dented when I jumped a curb trying to avoid ramming a driver swerving into my lane after being hit, I have been told in rapid succession: - that they can't just swap the tire because the front tires are worn down dangerously on the inside, confirmed visually - that after replacing the tires I'd need an alignment, which, okay, alignment went out which caused the uneven wear, fair enough - that when the wheels were off they noticed thaty inner tie rods had too much play, causing the alignment to go out, and needed to be replaced again. I'm prepared to admit that I may have hosed up the suspension replacement somehow, and this time pay for someone else to do it. My questions are: 1) Should I have both inner and outer tie rods replaced, or will just replacing the inner ones be okay? 2) How can I figure out what I might have done to screw up the last replacement, that they failed so soon? And 3) Would I be completely stupid to try this again myself, if I figure out the above, or should I just admit defeat and get it done by a pro?
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May 11, 2018 01:39
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After you rebuilt the front end, did you immediately take the car to get the front end aligned? The only reason I can think of straight off as to why you tie rod ends (inner or outer, and presumed to be of decent quality at the time) would be loose after only two years is that you didn't lube them - unless they were sealed units...however, my experience has been that replacement suspension components come with zerks and require lubing after installation. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 01:56 on May 11, 2018 |
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May 11, 2018 01:54
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-Replace whatever is worn out. If the outer tie rods don't have any slop in them, they don't need to be replaced. -Frankly the Ranger chassis is not known for long-lived suspension components, it could be you did everything fine and it just wore out in that time. And did you even do tie rods the first time around? Steering != suspension. -Tie rods are pretty easy, as long as you eyeball and get the toe pretty close you should be fine to drive to the shop, especially if the new tires aren't on yet. Best advice I could give is get a long-term alignment warranty, and take it in for regular checks, which by default include inspection of the front end to catch problems like this early. That way, regardless of if you have the shop fix it or DIY the parts, you're not driving for 2 years on a bad alignment and ruining tires prematurely.
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May 11, 2018 01:59
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PainterofCrap posted:After you rebuilt the front end, did you immediately take the car to get the front end aligned? Yeah, alignment straight off, no delay. And... lube could be the problem. I remember doing my best to lube them but not being sure the gun snapped to the fitting properly, and just hoping they'd gotten enough. Dammit. Enourmo posted:-Replace whatever is worn out. If the outer tie rods don't have any slop in them, they don't need to be replaced. I did mean steering, brain fart. That's reassuring, I might give it another go myself if I can get the parts quickly. And I'll definitely follow your advice on the regular alignments. This whole series of events has made me cranky. Thank you for the help.
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May 11, 2018 02:10
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Fo3 posted:There should be heaps of sierras here. Almost every second mate of mine had one for a short time in the 2000s. Oh, that maybe the problem... Seriously though, they are too cheap a car to be on carsales and paying for ads. Check gumtree. Thanks mate! That's really helpful. I found 6 Sierra's on carsales and a couple on gumtree. I thought there'd be more too. Will keep looking. I know the Vitara, just don't like it aesthetically as much as the Sierra. I did find the Feroza last night too, although it may be a bit too far to the '4wd' end of the spectrum. The Ford Maverick seems cool, but again, just a bit chunkier than I'd like : https://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Ford-Maverick-1989/SSE-AD-4787912/?Cr=15 The two door Pajero would work too: https://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Mitsubishi-Pajero-1994/SSE-AD-5155787/?Cr=4 I think I have a sentimental attachment to the Sierra, my Dad bought one when his muscular dystrophy meant he couldn't ride his motorbike on tours with his matesd any more. We drove it from Adelaide to Sydney, then I drove it around the city for a while as a teenager. But that aside, they look like sweet little cars and I reckon I'd be wanting one anyway. Thanks again.
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May 11, 2018 02:13
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I would get a second opinion on anything a tire shop freaks out over. They can be drama queens.
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May 11, 2018 02:30
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Quick question: 2005 Camry V6. ~210,000 miles I'm hearing this sound like rushing water coming from behind the dash, like right behind the steering wheel. It happens when turning the car on after sitting for a little or hitting the accelerator after the car's been stopped for a minute or so. It happens in Drive or Neutral, the car doesn't have to move to produce the sound. For a while I almost thought it was leaves stuck in the air intake or something it almost sounds like that, but I've ruled that out. Anyone have experience with anything like that?
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May 11, 2018 03:09
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Action Man posted:Quick question: When you say rushing water, do you mean like a running faucet, or more gurgle-y like a flushing toilet? Audio recording might help if your phone mic can pick it up.
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May 11, 2018 03:17
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Action Man posted:Quick question: My first guess would be an air bubble in the coolant line to the heater. A sudden increase in engine speed would produce a small spike in water flow around the bubble, producing the gurgling sound.
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May 11, 2018 03:31
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its a gurgling sound like bubbles rushing through a hose full of water
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May 11, 2018 05:03
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