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I'm pputting together a shelf. top shelf, bottom shelf, sides in between, simple stuff. I got it glued and clamped in the garage, how long should I let the wood glue set before I pop off the clamps and start drilling the holes for the dowels?
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May 6, 2018 17:36
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I just got a samsung and the things I liked are: - the drawer freezer has a little notch on the front of the rail that the top shelf can rest in so everything gets pulled out when you open the drawer - small front pocket in the freezer, maybe a can of soda diameter. useful for odds and ends of frozen veggies or hashbrowns or burritos or whatever, stuff that otherwise sorts its way to the bottom of the freezer - the deli/meat drawer clears the door shelves without having to have the doors all the way open - ice maker uses a screw feed, seems to be better at not clogging up they also have a retracting shelf which might be useful in your case or not not great was the water filter location, it's right in between the produce drawers and prominent so it's probably prone to kids playing around with it and i assume you have to use a rag on a stick to deal with drips when you change the filter. the shelving around the ice feed sucks, you can't fit a 8oz bottle of mustard in it. capri suns maybe? i dunno. the french door folding divider thing is less great than our old one. if you open the right door, then the left door slowly, the divider doesn't fold back all the way so you can slam it into the door if you close the right and then the left door. I agree that the door-in-door setups are ridiculous, unless you dedicate everything related to one meal in that spot then you're going to open up the fridge proper to get something and chances are you still need your hot sauce or whatever
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May 6, 2018 17:49
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Guy Goodbody posted:I'm pputting together a shelf. top shelf, bottom shelf, sides in between, simple stuff. I got it glued and clamped in the garage, how long should I let the wood glue set before I pop off the clamps and start drilling the holes for the dowels? Read the directions on your wood glue. Usually it's something like, clamp for at least half an hour, don't put any stress on the joint for at least 24 hours. Times depend on the environment though, with cold and humidity both slowing down the curing process.
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May 6, 2018 19:25
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Guy Goodbody posted:I'm pputting together a shelf. top shelf, bottom shelf, sides in between, simple stuff. I got it glued and clamped in the garage, how long should I let the wood glue set before I pop off the clamps and start drilling the holes for the dowels? I'd let it sit over-night at least, unless you used epoxy. Re: fridge chat: We bought a Samsung French door with a drawer freezer , with the icemaker in the bottom, in 2012. It had 3-problems: - Ice production was lousy. Took three days to fill. - water kept running down into the bottom & freezing, eventually freezing the freezer drawer shut. Water was also running out of a slit vent at the back of the upper fridge section. - trouble getting the drawer to shut all the way, resulting in it staying open for hours, coating everything in the freezer with frost. This aggravated #2. After chasing down an odd, rhythmic noise, it turned out that mine had a weird defect: there is a defrost fan at the back of the freezer section (near the floor). It turned out that the molded styrofoam panel that the fan was mounted into, and which also was molded with channels for air circulation (and which was accessible only by removing the freezer drawer assembly, followed by the icemaker, then the plastic panel at the rear of the fridge), was interfering with the fan blades (they have this heavy foil wrapped around certain parts of the fan & the defroster element below it); this restriced air circulation, which impeded the ability of the thing to defrost, resulting in the defroster drain becoming frozen, allowing water to overflow & collect in the bottom of the freezer. Until I tore the thing apart & figured all this out, I had no idea that styrofoam (molded polystyrene for you Type A folks - same stuff as coffee cups) could absorb water & expand when the water froze - swelling into the fan duct & hitting the fan. I shaved down the foam, glued some heavy aluminum foil all around it to 'waterproof" it, and haven't had a problem since. Ice production increased dramatically as well. The freezer drawer sticking open turned out to be caused by a pivot bolt on the bottom hinge of the left door unscrewing itself over time, to the point that it was descending out of the hinge & making contact with the top of the drawer front - dragging on it & preventing it from closing all the way. My son (the principal suspect on leaving the freezer drawer open) got so pissed at being blamed for this, he kept working the drawer until he noticed a gouge in the case & found the loose bolt. I count both of these as build defects. Thing's been perfect once repaired. Plenty of fridge room, plenty of ice & freezer space. Only thing I'd caution is: measure your space. The thing is enormous; they had to take the doors & drawer off to get it in the house. VVV it was around two grand IIRC. And out of warranty by the time the issues came together. I fixed it for $0 + months of aggro. VVV PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 05:26 on May 7, 2018 |
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May 7, 2018 03:59
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And how much did you pay for this fine example of manufacturing standards? 
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May 7, 2018 05:20
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This is the 3rd (I think) slight update to the model I bought 10 years ago https://www.bestbuy.com/site/whirlpool-20-cu-ft-french-door-counter-depth-refrigerator-stainless-steel/6079200.p?skuId=6079200 It's got water inside the door, so no ice/water mechanical to punch through and add complexity. Very efficient, very good temperature control. The only knock on it is that the compressor is slightly audible when it's running so if you live in a very quiet area you may be able to hear it running if you're in the room with it. Would buy it again if I were shopping today.
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May 7, 2018 14:38
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What's the difficulty level on replacing this valve? All the pipes are in good condition just the seal is busted. My experience level is I've changed a faucet and fixed a toilet seal/flushing mechanism. 
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May 7, 2018 15:26
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lifts cats over head posted:What's the difficulty level on replacing this valve? All the pipes are in good condition just the seal is busted. My experience level is I've changed a faucet and fixed a toilet seal/flushing mechanism. Shark bit valves are super easy to replace. What's going on at the bottom though? Is that an o ring coming out? You'll need the little disconnect tool that shark bite offer. And as long as you prep the pipe right, they're as reliable as any other method in my experience.
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May 7, 2018 15:30
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Yeah it looks like that's what that is as far as I can tell. Fortunately the other side seems totally sealed. Thanks for the input.
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May 7, 2018 15:32
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devicenull posted:We used this stuff: https://www.concretecountertopsolutions.com/products/countertop-products/z-liqui-crete-system I wanted to mix some recycled glass into the mix for visual effect, but it's impossible to get recycled, clear glass here. I'm not about to break and tumble a bunch of glass myself. Oddly enough, I can get three shades of blue and one of red. However, those really scream, "I tried to get cute with my concrete counters!"
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May 7, 2018 15:42
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Flash Gordon Ramsay posted:Shark bit valves are super easy to replace. Shark Bite fittings are literally magic. The first time I used one I triple checked the shutoff valve and ran water to make sure it was actually pressurized. I couldn’t believe how easy they are to use.
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May 7, 2018 19:42
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lifts cats over head posted:What's the difficulty level on replacing this valve? All the pipes are in good condition just the seal is busted. My experience level is I've changed a faucet and fixed a toilet seal/flushing mechanism. Is that a weird camera angle, or is the bottom pipe slightly angled?
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May 8, 2018 00:57
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So I have a leaky hose outside. There’s a shutoff right on the other side of the wall, but it ain’t doing its job. A friend told me I could probably just replace parts of that shutoff and easily get it to turn off the water, but I don’t understand how that’s possible versus needing to cut out some dry wall and completely replacing this valve. Thoughts?
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May 8, 2018 15:08
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I have a wooden table that's been covered with stickers from throughout the years in a bar, is there somekind of coating i could use on it to preserve them longer and make them survive future beer/food spillings?
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May 8, 2018 15:37
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The Dave posted:So I have a leaky hose outside. There’s a shutoff right on the other side of the wall, but it ain’t doing its job. A friend told me I could probably just replace parts of that shutoff and easily get it to turn off the water, but I don’t understand how that’s possible versus needing to cut out some dry wall and completely replacing this valve. Thoughts? That's a multiturn valve. You should just have to turn off your main valve (hopefully that one still shuts off the completely), unscrew the stem out of the valve right there, then take it to the hardware store and replace the rubber bits on it. More than likely, you won't need to replace the entire thing. The same goes for the hose bibb outside. We can help if the main valve doesn't shut off 100% also.
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May 8, 2018 15:39
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ElectricBlizzard posted:I have a wooden table that's been covered with stickers from throughout the years in a bar, is there somekind of coating i could use on it to preserve them longer and make them survive future beer/food spillings? Probably just a polyurethane coating would work.
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May 8, 2018 15:45
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extravadanza posted:Probably just a polyurethane coating would work. Yeah, that's what I'd do. It's pretty standard for "I want a clear coating to protect whatever's underneath."
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May 8, 2018 16:23
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ElectricBlizzard posted:I have a wooden table that's been covered with stickers from throughout the years in a bar, is there somekind of coating i could use on it to preserve them longer and make them survive future beer/food spillings? If this is in a commercial bar, I'd probably go with a real epoxy: https://www.countertopepoxy.com/premium-clear-epoxy-for-countertops-bar-tops/ I'm not sure poly would be enough to hold up to tons and tons of abuse.
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May 9, 2018 01:04
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SoundMonkey fucked around with this message at 07:32 on Jan 8, 2020 |
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May 9, 2018 06:05
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MrYenko posted:Shark Bite fittings are literally magic. The first time I used one I triple checked the shutoff valve and ran water to make sure it was actually pressurized. I couldn’t believe how easy they are to use. When my house's water supply suddenly dropped to a trickle because the galvanized pipe from the street to the house had corroded and had a stroke, I dug all that poo poo up and then headed down to local hardware store. The old guy asks, what do you need? I tell him i need 60' of 1.5" PVC, a new pressure regulator (shovel got the original) and whatever fittings necessary to tie the PVC into my under house copper. He says, what are you working on? And I tell him about my galvanized pipe and he says, "Oh no my friend, let me tell you and PEX and Shark Bite." And ever since that day I haven't huffed any more PVC glue.
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May 10, 2018 08:04
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tactlessbastard posted:When my house's water supply suddenly dropped to a trickle because the galvanized pipe from the street to the house had corroded and had a stroke, I dug all that poo poo up and then headed down to local hardware store. The old guy asks, what do you need? I tell him i need 60' of 1.5" PVC, a new pressure regulator (shovel got the original) and whatever fittings necessary to tie the PVC into my under house copper. ...but then you don't get high off the adhesive fumes. I really don't see the down side to your argument.
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May 10, 2018 08:42
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kid sinister posted:...but then you don't get high off the adhesive fumes. I really don't see the down side to your argument. my experience with those fumes has basically been "hmm well i think a bunch of weird things smell good, maybe i'll just take a- OH GOD WHY YES OK I WILL USE IT IN A VENTILATED AREA MAKE IT STOP"
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May 10, 2018 09:17
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Is there a reason, as a Las Vegas resident, why I shouldn't get Solar?
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May 10, 2018 16:35
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Are you self-installing or have you received a sales pitch from a third-party installer?
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May 10, 2018 17:33
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Wasabi the J posted:Is there a reason, as a Las Vegas resident, why I shouldn't get Solar? Stock market has a better ROI.
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May 10, 2018 17:41
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... sales pitch. It's hard to find people that aren't into it on Google searches.
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May 10, 2018 19:10
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*From what I've heard personally from people in the southeast* you have to take their (the salesman pitching this) payback projections with a huge grain of salt. We've also seen a lot of shady business practices, like companies changing their name yearly, and the "3 year warranty" evaporating. Also realize that the future of the economics of how utilities buy back energy is subject to change, while your loan payment will stay the same. Currently most utilities buy back solar at the same rate they sell kwh at, because it's still a marginal enough amount that they can absorb the loss, and it's good PR. But "buy high and sell high" is not tenable forever...
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May 10, 2018 22:15
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I've had solar on my roof for 2 years now, own not lease. My payback was going to be about 7-10 years and so far I'm on track for that. I do get the benefit of the utility buying back at the retail rate-- but I only sized for about 80% of my annual load because they sweep credits once a year at 3c/kwh at the end of October. So far I end up with $20/mo bills for the base charge until july-ish, when I've burned through them.
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May 11, 2018 19:32
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Wasabi the J posted:Is there a reason, as a Las Vegas resident, why I shouldn't get Solar? Hey if you want a new roof and have 60 grand, get a Tesla solar roof. By god you will see the savings in like 3 decades.
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May 11, 2018 22:04
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Ok. So my girlfriend bought this old rear end cottage thing that has hard wood floor about a meter off the dirt. This hard wood floor is not insulated, and so the floor is warping and rotting due to condensation from the air conditioner. It's only a matter of time before someone falls right through the loving piece of poo poo. I'm not absolutely worthless with my hands, but I have no idea where to start getting information on how to start tackling this problem, and she doesn't have the tens of thousands of dollars it would cost to get a pro to do it, so I'm after any information anyone can offer.
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May 13, 2018 07:00
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Marching Powder posted:Ok. So my girlfriend bought this old rear end cottage thing that has hard wood floor about a meter off the dirt. This hard wood floor is not insulated, and so the floor is warping and rotting due to condensation from the air conditioner. It's only a matter of time before someone falls right through the loving piece of poo poo. I'm not absolutely worthless with my hands, but I have no idea where to start getting information on how to start tackling this problem, and she doesn't have the tens of thousands of dollars it would cost to get a pro to do it, so I'm after any information anyone can offer. Turn off the air conditioner?
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May 13, 2018 08:52
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Marching Powder posted:Ok. So my girlfriend bought this old rear end cottage thing that has hard wood floor about a meter off the dirt. This hard wood floor is not insulated, and so the floor is warping and rotting due to condensation from the air conditioner. It's only a matter of time before someone falls right through the loving piece of poo poo. I'm not absolutely worthless with my hands, but I have no idea where to start getting information on how to start tackling this problem, and she doesn't have the tens of thousands of dollars it would cost to get a pro to do it, so I'm after any information anyone can offer. I think this is going to need a whole thread of its own, starting with a billion pictures. As for cost, people used to build houses with axes, do you have an axe?
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May 13, 2018 10:25
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cakesmith handyman posted:I think this is going to need a whole thread of its own, starting with a billion pictures. Not familiar with the forums culture in this sub, but is a full thread for this one problem something I should seriously do? Got plenty of pictures. Facebook Aunt posted:Turn off the air conditioner? The damage is done, but yes, this advice has been followed.
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May 13, 2018 10:39
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Marching Powder posted:Not familiar with the forums culture in this sub, but is a full thread for this one problem something I should seriously do? Got plenty of pictures. Marching Powder posted:Ok. So my girlfriend bought this old rear end cottage thing that has hard wood floor about a meter off the dirt. This hard wood floor is not insulated, and so the floor is warping and rotting due to condensation from the air conditioner. It's only a matter of time before someone falls right through the loving piece of poo poo. I don't think this will be your only problem, honestly.
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May 13, 2018 10:45
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cakesmith handyman posted:I don't think this will be your only problem, honestly. So I don't post a thread? Cool.
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May 13, 2018 11:48
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Marching Powder posted:So I don't post a thread? Cool. Oh, definitely post a thread. Just be prepared for any project to spiral into insanity, possibly take you and your relationship with it.
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May 13, 2018 12:52
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Odds are that once you take off the floorboards (which you'll need to do to fix this), you'll find other problems. For example, if condensation was causing the floorboards to rot and twist, what do you think it was doing to the subfloor and floor joists? You may well have a substantial renovation on your hands before the building can be rendered safe. Hence the suggestion for a thread.
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May 13, 2018 15:00
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Marching Powder posted:Ok. So my girlfriend bought this old rear end cottage thing that has hard wood floor about a meter off the dirt. This hard wood floor is not insulated, and so the floor is warping and rotting due to condensation from the air conditioner. It's only a matter of time before someone falls right through the loving piece of poo poo. I'm not absolutely worthless with my hands, but I have no idea where to start getting information on how to start tackling this problem, and she doesn't have the tens of thousands of dollars it would cost to get a pro to do it, so I'm after any information anyone can offer. 1. Empty room entirely 2. rip up floor 3. Pray your floor framing is well off the dirt & not ravaged by wood-boring insects & general rot from being over dirt for however long. 4. After replacing the floor framing (maybe), consider dumping five tons of crushed marble onto the dirt because it'a cheaper than puddled concrete. 5. Lay down 60-mil or thicker plastic sheeting & secure with heavy things because that's the cheapest way actually 6. Install proper ventilation in the walls of the crawlspace so that you don't accumulate moisture. 7. Install water-resistant 3/4" plywood subfloor 8. Instal Visiqueen or similar vapor barrier 9. Install 1/4" luan or similar sacraficial layer for the hardwood 10. Install new flooring PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 19:38 on May 13, 2018 |
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May 13, 2018 15:33
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Marching Powder posted:So I don't post a thread? Cool.  I don't know how I'm coming across to you but I'm not trying to be a dick or deliberately obtuse here. I think you'll find more problems when you pull the floor up and the whole "gf bought a rotten cabin in the woods" angle will make a good thread both for advice on fixing things and nosy people wanting to see your cabin.
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May 13, 2018 16:25
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Yeah but what if there really is only one problem and he gets banned for using up precious thread posting resources
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May 13, 2018 16:34
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