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The company I work for applied for and received a pretty decent grant that's meant to help update and add new technology to the business, and suddenly we're looking at Stratasys Fortus machines. Had a distributor's rep come by the other day with a bunch of samples, and I got to nerd right the hell out with him for about an hour while we discussed wants, needs, and practical applications. I don't think I'm going to end up talking the boss into their turnkey aerospace setup at about a half a million dollars, but he is absolutely interested in the tech and what we can do with it. Their FAA-approved filament, Ultem 9085, is like $270/kg. 
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May 12, 2018 12:19
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Does anyone know of a decent blue glow on the dark pla filament? 1.75. There are a couple on amazon but they have very so-so reviews. Also, ended up picking up a CR-10s to have more build volume, and man I wish I would have just got this from the start. The prints that come off it are night and day better than my MP Mini select. Although it makes me want to play around with more settings. I sort of got it to acceptable and then just quite playing with things.
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May 12, 2018 22:31
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Based on a recommendation here I bought my gf a Prusa i3 mk3 which arrives next month. She’s beyond thrilled. In the meantime we’re trying to get some workspace together and figure out what the hell to do with it. We’re in a smallish apartment and don’t want to poison ourselves or our pets. Do any of you in similar situations have beginner advice on enclosures, ventilation, or materials?
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May 12, 2018 23:19
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Snowy posted:
Don't print ABS (I don't know why you would in 2018 anyway...) and don't make anything that's going to touch food or drinking water unless you get a stainless steel nozzle (at minimum). Also if you have birds, probably don't put the printer anywhere near them, even though I think you picked one without much/any Teflon in it
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May 12, 2018 23:29
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cephalopods posted:Don't print ABS (I don't know why you would in 2018 anyway...) and don't make anything that's going to touch food or drinking water unless you get a stainless steel nozzle (at minimum). Cool thanks! And no birds, cats and a dog.
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May 12, 2018 23:31
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Has anyone figured out how to print flex 98a? I keep getting models that look like they are made of boogers and string. Slow speeds is all I've heard you need to do with flex but I also think cutting down on retraction of any kind could help but the mk3 loves injecting retractions everywhere (kind of a problem but that's another story)
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May 13, 2018 00:37
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I don’t know poo poo about printing other than through osmosis, but cheap ventilation can be had using the big computer case fans running at low rpm and flexible dryer ducting from a big box hardware store. Make a big enclosure around everything, have a fan pulling air out of the enclosure into the ductwork, and maybe another pulling out of the duct and to the outside depending how long it is. Keep the areas of openings and ducts close to the same size as the fans and you will be fine. Obviously only necessary if you’re worried about plastics volatiles offgassing.
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May 13, 2018 00:38
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I am very sensitive when it comes to odors and fearful of breathing in bad poo poo. I'm also in an apartment (with a cat), and I've been printing PLA for almost a year and a half with absolutely no issue. I got a free roll of ABS off Reddit a while back, but I still haven't opened it. Not only do I not have an enclosure, but I am also concerned about fumes.
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May 13, 2018 00:51
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Print in PLA and bask in the barely detectable scent of waffles. My printer lives in a closet and even with the door closed for hours-long prints there’s not much of a smell at all.
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May 13, 2018 01:01
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Revol posted:I am very sensitive when it comes to odors and fearful of breathing in bad poo poo. I'm also in an apartment (with a cat), and I've been printing PLA for almost a year and a half with absolutely no issue. I got a free roll of ABS off Reddit a while back, but I still haven't opened it. Not only do I not have an enclosure, but I am also concerned about fumes. Thanks! I thought we might need an enclosure also to avoid pet hair and to keep pesky cat paws away. I guess that’s not as much of an issue as I had feared. E- also I like waffles so, sounds good 
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May 13, 2018 01:01
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EVIL Gibson posted:Has anyone figured out how to print flex 98a? I keep getting models that look like they are made of boogers and string. That is a slicer setting, but I don't think there's really anything you can do to stop stringing on TPU.
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May 13, 2018 01:04
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PETG has no odor and is the one true filament.
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May 13, 2018 01:14
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cephalopods posted:Don't print ABS (I don't know why you would in 2018 anyway...) Wait, what? I've seen a couple places offer filament that claims to offer the toughness of ABS combined with the not-warping-all-over-the-place of PLA. Does any of that actually perform as advertised? And I was just thinking about adding a heated enclosure to my Makergear M2, wondering if I could just enclose the area inside the frame so that only the Y axis motor would be exposed to the heat (though this was partly so that I could work with polycarbonate) .
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May 13, 2018 02:29
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PET is the thinking man's PLA and nylon is the thinking man's ABS.
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May 13, 2018 04:34
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Sagebrush posted:PET is the thinking man's PLA and nylon is the thinking man's ABS. Everything I've read says that nylon is just as vulnerable to warping as ABS.
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May 13, 2018 04:57
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Cockmaster posted:Everything I've read says that nylon is just as vulnerable to warping as ABS. Wrong, nylon is far more vulnerable to warping (unless you buy Taulman's special expensive blends, I guess) (at least nylon 6, which is what I bought) BMan fucked around with this message at 05:15 on May 13, 2018 |
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May 13, 2018 05:13
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I’ve been using pretty much exclusively ABS for years and I’ve heard good things so I’m interested in trying PETG. Mainly to get less warping. The only issue I have is that ABS is so easy to weld together and finish and I’m reading that PETG doesn’t do as well. Anyone have a solution to that? I mostly do multi-part prints, weld them together with acetone glue and then use bondo, sanding and filler paint to get things to look good, is there an equivalent process for PETG?
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May 13, 2018 15:04
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Seems like PETG should friction weld nicely but haven't tried it myself. I use PLA I'm sure it would be fine though and it's all perception on my part.
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May 13, 2018 17:06
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I’m not sure what’s in it, but ABS+ solves a lot of the problems ABS traditionally has. Way lower warping, way lower fumes. I’ve been printing Voron parts with eSun ABS+ on an unenclosed i3 and I’m pleasantly surprised at the results. I don’t buy that “thinking mans alternative” stuff. PLA and PETG are so different that they both have different places.
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May 13, 2018 17:06
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I was just making a lovely offhand comment, but yeah nothing matches ABS in terms of workability, thanks to all the cool acetone poo poo. But how often do you really need vapor smoothing
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May 13, 2018 18:56
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cephalopods posted:I was just making a lovely offhand comment, but yeah nothing matches ABS in terms of workability, thanks to all the cool acetone poo poo. People have different interests in FDM. Someone in this thread was just asking about getting into miniature models and for drat sure they would want smoothing for that. Until they start making SLA printers for around 300 and resin be priced the same as filament volume-wise, smoothing will still be a tool.
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May 13, 2018 19:15
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EVIL Gibson posted:People have different interests in FDM. Someone in this thread was just asking about getting into miniature models and for drat sure they would want smoothing for that. For miniatures, I still think it makes more sense to go with PLA, an 0.2mm nozzle and a really slow print than bother with acetone smoothing. Acetone washes out surface details which are pretty important to make dry-brushing look good. And as much as I'd love a cheap SLA printer, it would still be far more messy and toxic than FDM.
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May 13, 2018 21:59
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BMan posted:Wrong, nylon is far more vulnerable to warping (unless you buy Taulman's special expensive blends, I guess) Either way, it seems I'd still want that heated build area. I've also noticed that Stratasys' heated chamber patent is set to expire in 2020. Might there be a potential business opportunity in bringing that feature to hobbyist-level (or at least low-end professional level) machines? EVIL Gibson posted:Until they start making SLA printers for around 300 and resin be priced the same as filament volume-wise, smoothing will still be a tool. Well, I have seen a couple DLP printers in the $500 range: https://www.amazon.com/Wanhao-Versi...ao+duplicator+7 https://www.amazon.com/ANYCUBIC-rear end...ao+duplicator+7 There are also a couple in the $200-300 range, but they've gotten pretty nasty reviews.
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May 13, 2018 22:27
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I don't think filament and resin costs are really a factor when printing miniatures since they're really small.
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May 14, 2018 00:56
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Mister Sinewave posted:I don't think filament and resin costs are really a factor when printing miniatures since they're really small. I really think it is. If a person only has enough funds for one machine, they will walk away it's too much work, time, money and cleanup if they go to SLA first (at least I would) thinking it's similiar to the prices of FDM also one thing that SLA has it rough is learning that the only way to save material is not decrease infill (no such thing in resin) and they have to build in the hollow cavities and drain holes themselves else they will burn a lot of material with each print beyond mini models.
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May 14, 2018 03:13
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I'm just saying a litre of resin (for example) goes a pretty long way when you're doing minis at 15mL at a time totaling $2 a pop or so. Also to a lesser extent I'm also saying that if someone is printing minis with SLA the price of resin isn't going to be the part that makes them throw up their arms and say "gently caress it this was a mistake" should they so decide. I'm deffo not saying that someone with limited funds and little to no printing experience should drop their coins on SLA instead of FDM "because the resin's not that expensive really brah" or whatever.
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May 14, 2018 03:25
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If the goal is truly just to make a large number of D&D or Warhammer miniatures, SLA printing is undoubtedly cheaper than buying the real things, even at $100/liter or whatever.
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May 14, 2018 03:58
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HIPS is pretty good for miniatures and can be vapor smoothed with limonene (though you need to heat it as opposed to acetone). It can also be bonded with standard plastic model cement, which is really handy.
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May 14, 2018 17:39
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I want to print a temperature tower, but Slic3rPE doesn't have an option to set temperature by layer height in the gcode export. I've got two questions: 1. What slicer does? 2. Could I just manually edit the gcode for the tower to add the relevant M109 S### command for the temperature transition? 3. What other things could I do to make the temperature tower work out of SlicerPE? I don't know gcode at all, but I'm a quick study and want to learn so I'm leaning towards doing the second one.
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May 14, 2018 18:49
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NeurosisHead posted:I want to print a temperature tower, but Slic3rPE doesn't have an option to set temperature by layer height in the gcode export. I've got two questions: The tower I use makes you insert some placeholder text in slic3r's custom layer gcode, then parses it with a simple python script. Sorry I can't link it right now, I'm on my phone, but it's on thingiverse as "customizable temperature tower" or something. The writeup is pretty well detailed. e: biracial bear linked it cephalopods fucked around with this message at 21:21 on May 14, 2018 |
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May 14, 2018 18:55
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Mr. Powers posted:HIPS is pretty good for miniatures and can be vapor smoothed with limonene (though you need to heat it as opposed to acetone). It can also be bonded with standard plastic model cement, which is really handy. A lot of plastic models are actually made of HIPS as well.
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May 14, 2018 19:02
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NeurosisHead posted:I want to print a temperature tower, but Slic3rPE doesn't have an option to set temperature by layer height in the gcode export. I've got two questions: Editing the gcode is very easy, you just open it in any text editor. I don’t know about slic3r, but Cura at least labels each layer and you can just ctrl+f to the layer number and add a new line for the temp change.
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May 14, 2018 19:10
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NeurosisHead posted:I want to print a temperature tower, but Slic3rPE doesn't have an option to set temperature by layer height in the gcode export. I've got two questions: Yeah just do the second one. Search your code for any occurrences of the letter Z, which will be right at the beginning of a new layer, and insert a M109 temperature change after every 10mm or whatever.
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May 14, 2018 19:14
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NeurosisHead posted:I want to print a temperature tower, but Slic3rPE doesn't have an option to set temperature by layer height in the gcode export. I've got two questions: Follow the directions in this thing, but adjust them for the tower you're printing. The same script should work for whatever tower you are printing. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2614204 Or buy Simplify3D and set temperatures at specific layer numbers as freely as you want.
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May 14, 2018 20:35
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Update on the quality problems I was having with my Monoprice Mini -- found the "Only retract when crossing perimeters" option in Slic3r and unchecked it. Now it retracts a little bit before all travel moves and no longer slowly oozes during travel.  Still got to find the sweet spot for the infill/skin overlap so round holes are bonded fully, but score one for Slic3r as I never could get Cura to do this.
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May 14, 2018 23:42
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If you ever want to use Cura again, try these travel settings to avoid that same problem: Non-printing travel speed also has a pretty big impact on oozing, the faster you can get from A to B the less time gravity has to work on the molten filament in the nozzle. Setting that speed fairly high (comparatively, anyway, it's going to vary a lot by printer) can really help mitigate oozing and blobs. It's all a balance between travel settings, retraction, speeds, and the particular phase of the moon.
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May 15, 2018 12:29
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I upgraded the hot end on my Tevo Tornado to an E3dv6 and I've got everything sorted out in Marlin firmware except for the hotend fan. 1. I plugged the fan header to the FAN header inside the Tornado and that runs to the *hotend fan*, not the parts fan. Parts fan is run off a servo header and is on constantly 2. I can manually activate the fan using the control box on the Tornado or issuing a M106 command in the terminal 3. When the bed and the hotend heat up, the fan will spin during the calibration phase but as soon as it starts the print it shuts the fan speed to zero I was thinking about just wiring the hot end fan into a constant 12v power source inside the power supply box on the Tornado but I feel really close to getting this figured out. Anyone have any clues? Aside from manually clicking on the fan after the print starts the machine runs really well!
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May 15, 2018 19:47
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kit version of printrbelt looks pretty dope https://twitter.com/printrbot/status/995571143686868992
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May 15, 2018 19:54
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johnnyonetime posted:I upgraded the hot end on my Tevo Tornado to an E3dv6 and I've got everything sorted out in Marlin firmware except for the hotend fan. I'd say it's a pretty good chance the fan header you're connected to is for the part cooling fan. Whatever slicer you're using is setting the part cooling fan to zero for the first few layers. M106 with no fan index refers to the part cooling fan. IMHO you need to swap your hotend and parts cooling fan wiring because it's way more important to have the part cooling fan be software controlled.
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May 15, 2018 20:01
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PlaneGuy posted:kit version of printrbelt looks pretty dope Finally a printer for jumbo sized phallus replication.
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