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Electric Hobo
Oct 22, 2008


Grimey Drawer
You could probably thin it a bit more, but It doesn't look too bad to me.

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Ugleb
Nov 19, 2014

ASK ME ABOUT HOW SCOTLAND'S PROPOSED TRANS LEGISLATION IS DIVISIVE AS HELL BECAUSE IT IS SO SWEEPING THAT IT COULD BE POTENTIALLY ABUSED AT A TIME WHERE THE LACK OF SAFETY FOR WOMEN HAS BEEN SO GLARING

MJP posted:

Did I not thin my paints enough? Some other comments elsewhere said it looked too thick.

It does look a bit thick on the chest, I'm thinking you are trying to get solid coverage with a single coat rather than layering up. Paint dries fast, don't be too worried about leaving it a couple of minutes between thinner layers.

As you aren't too far in, I'm going to point you to some pretty obvious mold lines you should probably go back and clean up. Either a bit of light filing or a sharp blade should do the trick. Your painting won't cover those up unless you really are glooping the paint on I'm afraid and they will detract from your best efforts.

Don't be discouraged though, I think you are off to a decent start and the rest is experience.

EvilBeard
Apr 24, 2003

Big Q's House of Pancakes

Fun Shoe
I'm new to painting minis, and I got an Imperial Knight. On the large shoulders, the Ceramite White I used cracked when it dried. Is this because it's a large section thinned with water? I did it in about 4 coats to try to get full coverage, and while I finally did, it's cracked.

Felime
Jul 10, 2009

EvilBeard posted:

I'm new to painting minis, and I got an Imperial Knight. On the large shoulders, the Ceramite White I used cracked when it dried. Is this because it's a large section thinned with water? I did it in about 4 coats to try to get full coverage, and while I finally did, it's cracked.

Cracking is generally caused by paint contracting. If the upper layer dries faster than the lower layer for some reason, the top layer will crack. Might help to wait longer between layers, or you might have painted too soon after putting on a slower drying primer.

If you waited a while, it might be as you said. Paint that contracts too much as it dries can also crack. Not sure if too much water can do that though.

MJP
Jun 17, 2007

Are you looking at me Senpai?

Grimey Drawer
Tried again with another mini. This is the first coat. Does that look thin enough? https://imgur.com/a/ApOgDT0

Booley
Apr 25, 2010
I CAN BARELY MAKE IT A WEEK WITHOUT ACTING LIKE AN ASSHOLE
Grimey Drawer
I know people have been looking for paints that match some of the OOP GW stuff like charadon granite. I just found these:

https://shop.instarpaint.com/vintage-conversion/

mango sentinel
Jan 5, 2001

by sebmojo

GuardianOfAsgaard posted:

'Spear of Ultramar', a Knight Lancer from House Konor, now sworn to the Ultramarines 4th Company:









What. the. gently caress?

This is pretty nuts, you did an incredible job.

Beer4TheBeerGod
Aug 23, 2004
Exciting Lemon

EvilBeard posted:

I'm new to painting minis, and I got an Imperial Knight. On the large shoulders, the Ceramite White I used cracked when it dried. Is this because it's a large section thinned with water? I did it in about 4 coats to try to get full coverage, and while I finally did, it's cracked.

Next time paint the shoulders separately. With spray paint. Or better yet prime white!

GuardianOfAsgaard
Feb 1, 2012

Their steel shines red
With enemy blood
It sings of victory
Granted by the Gods

mango sentinel posted:

What. the. gently caress?

This is pretty nuts, you did an incredible job.

You're too kind. Thanks!

Eifert Posting
Apr 1, 2007

Most of the time he catches it every time.
Grimey Drawer
I'm not a huge fan of the ultramarines scheme and I'm even more not a fan of painting non Space Marine models in Space Marine skins but that is an absolutely gorgeous model.

EvilBeard
Apr 24, 2003

Big Q's House of Pancakes

Fun Shoe

Beer4TheBeerGod posted:

Next time paint the shoulders separately. With spray paint. Or better yet prime white!

I painted them separately. I painted it House Taranis so only half the shoulder was white. I primed them black, put down Vallejo Air Gunmetal on the trim, and then painted them half black/white with a brush.

I don't think it was the primer because I primed the whole thing, then worked on the skeleton, getting the gunmetal and brass accents done before shading. I painted the shoulders days later. Maybe I just needed more time between coats. I'll give them some extra time on the second go round.

WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

Is ceramite white the bad citadel one or is that white scar? I switched to p3 morrow white for pure white and am pretty happy with that

spectralent
Oct 1, 2014

Me and the boys poppin' down to the shops

MJP posted:

Tried again with another mini. This is the first coat. Does that look thin enough? https://imgur.com/a/ApOgDT0

Yeah, that's pretty good. It might be too thin but there's also paints where if they're of an appreciable thinness they're a bit translucent. I used to say "like milk" but tbh if your paint isn't running into crevasses and isn't gumming up as it dries it's fine, and getting that right just takes practise.

Lungboy
Aug 23, 2002

NEED SQUAT FORM HELP

Booley posted:

I know people have been looking for paints that match some of the OOP GW stuff like charadon granite. I just found these:

https://shop.instarpaint.com/vintage-conversion/

Nice find. Now to bombard them with emails to force them to replicate Emerald Green, original Bilious Green and Worm Purple.

Zark the Damned
Mar 9, 2013

Booley posted:

I know people have been looking for paints that match some of the OOP GW stuff like charadon granite. I just found these:

https://shop.instarpaint.com/vintage-conversion/

Ooo, that looks really useful, I may have to order a few and see how close they match. I'm running short on Tallarn Flesh and have a lot of Guardsmen to get done at some point...

Beer4TheBeerGod
Aug 23, 2004
Exciting Lemon

EvilBeard posted:

I painted them separately. I painted it House Taranis so only half the shoulder was white. I primed them black, put down Vallejo Air Gunmetal on the trim, and then painted them half black/white with a brush.

I don't think it was the primer because I primed the whole thing, then worked on the skeleton, getting the gunmetal and brass accents done before shading. I painted the shoulders days later. Maybe I just needed more time between coats. I'll give them some extra time on the second go round.

That's really weird. I still think it might be worth priming white and then brushing the black and silver, but I agree your approach should have been viable.

hexa
Dec 10, 2004

And the day came when the risk to remain tight in a bud was more painful than the risk it took to blossom
I'm painting up some Khorne CLARETSLAPPERS for Shadespire, and was thinking of using a Liquitex ink to brush-glaze the armour plates that aren't the brassy/gold trim.

Does anybody have any tips? Who is the poster with the really neat purple/bone Primaris big bois?

Fyrbrand
Dec 30, 2002

Grimey Drawer

Booley posted:

I know people have been looking for paints that match some of the OOP GW stuff like charadon granite. I just found these:

https://shop.instarpaint.com/vintage-conversion/

This owns, you own, everything owns.

Seriously though, this is great. Thanks for posting it.

MJP
Jun 17, 2007

Are you looking at me Senpai?

Grimey Drawer

spectralent posted:

Yeah, that's pretty good. It might be too thin but there's also paints where if they're of an appreciable thinness they're a bit translucent. I used to say "like milk" but tbh if your paint isn't running into crevasses and isn't gumming up as it dries it's fine, and getting that right just takes practise.

That's the same guideline to thin for airbrushing, so now I 100% gotcha.

I did a few more coats and somehow even after each coat is dry, there's still a little gray. Which is weird, because it's a white primer coat. I'll probably end up saying "whatever, let's do it" and proceed to layering thereafter.

Equipment question: I have a cheapo visor magnifier thingy that I got for $10 on Aliexpress. It's done the trick downstairs in my basement hobby workstation, which is lit up six ways to sunday, but the two built-in LEDs don't quite cut it since I took my painting setup upstairs so I can feel a little less disconnected while painting. Anyone have a suggestion for better-lit portable magnification for mini painting while in normal household lighting?

sassassin
Apr 3, 2010

by Azathoth
Has army painter changed the formula for their dark and soft tones in the last couple of years? Got a new bottle of each and they're giving far more of an even stain than a wash when dried.

Mikey Purp
Sep 30, 2008

I realized it's gotten out of control. I realize I'm out of control.
WIP on one of my Shadespire duders. I'm going for an albino look, but he may just look like a vampire? He's pinker in reality, if that helps. Any advice?



Major Spag
Nov 4, 2012
Moar fuckbois:



Here is the whole squad, together

WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

sassassin posted:

Has army painter changed the formula for their dark and soft tones in the last couple of years? Got a new bottle of each and they're giving far more of an even stain than a wash when dried.

Have you compared side by side? If not I have a new bottle of dark tone to replace one that will run out soon, so I could do a comparison test.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Mikey Purp posted:

WIP on one of my Shadespire duders. I'm going for an albino look, but he may just look like a vampire? He's pinker in reality, if that helps. Any advice?





Dude I love these. If anything it might make them look more vampirey but I'd almost push the highlights father on the skin towards white

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.



Boy.

Chance II
Aug 6, 2009

Would you like a
second chance?
So I've had these Kharadron overlords for like a year and I just finished a big project for a friend so I figured I would finally get around to painting my sky dorfs. I'm starting to regret my color scheme choice but I think it looks okay so i guess I'll stick with it. The bright colors are a nice departure from the Genestealer cult and Death Guard I've been painting for my friend. Anyway, here is my Admiral. You can see the frigate I've started in the background. I tried to do a chipped armor effect but the amount of detail on the model made it difficult and I don't think the effect really shows up very well.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


So, I have a few old GW "Ink" paints. How do these differ from premade washes?

Fake James
Aug 18, 2005

Y'all got any more of that plastic?
Buglord

Deviant posted:

So, I have a few old GW "Ink" paints. How do these differ from premade washes?

They are glossy and cover more area. For example, the guts on this model were screamer pink > red ink > chestnut ink. The inks were one coat each.

Lungboy
Aug 23, 2002

NEED SQUAT FORM HELP
Back on yellow chat: I still have a full pot of Iyanden, can i just do a coat of that, wash it with sepia or agrax or something, then layer up with Yriel and Flash Gitz? Or am i better off starting with Averland?

spectralent
Oct 1, 2014

Me and the boys poppin' down to the shops

Mikey Purp posted:

WIP on one of my Shadespire duders. I'm going for an albino look, but he may just look like a vampire? He's pinker in reality, if that helps. Any advice?





That's pretty ace! You've done a scar tone pretty well.

Harkano
Jun 5, 2005

Mikey Purp posted:

WIP on one of my Shadespire duders. I'm going for an albino look, but he may just look like a vampire? He's pinker in reality, if that helps. Any advice?





I was actually just working my way through God of War and looking at my Garrek's Reavers basecoated in nice normal flesh on my desk and considering how to change it. What white/techniques did you use to capture Kratos' 'covered in talcum powder' skin?

Beer4TheBeerGod
Aug 23, 2004
Exciting Lemon

Deviant posted:

So, I have a few old GW "Ink" paints. How do these differ from premade washes?

They're really intense. Probably the best things GW ever released.

hexa
Dec 10, 2004

And the day came when the risk to remain tight in a bud was more painful than the risk it took to blossom

Beer4TheBeerGod posted:

They're really intense. Probably the best things GW ever released.

Would they work well over metallic paints? I've got an old red ink somewhere (plus some new Liquitex stuff).

I need to speed-paint some Khorne warriors and have already sprayed them brassy brass with a brighter top coat, and need to pick out the red bits of the armour for Friday.

Lungboy
Aug 23, 2002

NEED SQUAT FORM HELP
I've occasionally wondered why they stopped making the inks. Chestnut ink was the best thing and i'd swap one or both of my kids for a few pots of it.

dexefiend
Apr 25, 2003

THE GOGGLES DO NOTHING!

Lungboy posted:

Back on yellow chat: I still have a full pot of Iyanden, can i just do a coat of that, wash it with sepia or agrax or something, then layer up with Yriel and Flash Gitz? Or am i better off starting with Averland?

How big is this army you are painting? I wouldn't want to start a Space Marines army with an OOP base color.

Lungboy
Aug 23, 2002

NEED SQUAT FORM HELP

dexefiend posted:

How big is this army you are painting? I wouldn't want to start a Space Marines army with an OOP base color.

Brand new Ad Mech army, currently only a Dominus, Onager and single Skitarii squad. Normally i wouldn't entertain the idea of a new army in an OOP colour, but Booley linked a company that makes the old Foundation range colours.

Gravitas Shortfall
Jul 17, 2007

Utility is seven-eighths Proximity.


Lungboy posted:

I've occasionally wondered why they stopped making the inks. Chestnut ink was the best thing and i'd swap one or both of my kids for a few pots of it.

Coat D'arms still makes it

Lungboy
Aug 23, 2002

NEED SQUAT FORM HELP

Gravitas Shortfall posted:

Coat D'arms still makes it

Sorry kids, it was nice knowing you!

Hixson
Mar 27, 2009

Finished a heresy Word Bearer Gal Vorbak.






4 more to go, kill me

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sassassin
Apr 3, 2010

by Azathoth

Lungboy posted:

Back on yellow chat: I still have a full pot of Iyanden, can i just do a coat of that, wash it with sepia or agrax or something, then layer up with Yriel and Flash Gitz? Or am i better off starting with Averland?

I put a thin coat of a brighter yellow over Iyanden otherwise it ends up looking a little too browny after a wash.


Booyah- posted:

Have you compared side by side? If not I have a new bottle of dark tone to replace one that will run out soon, so I could do a comparison test.

The colours are fine they're just handling weird. The dark tone feels thicker and my normal slop it on technique is leaving things with a very even shade all over.

Maybe my last bottles were just thin, I do remember having to adapt a bit from how I was using GW's old black & sepia.

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