|
Blakkout posted:I applied new clear coat to a 2" x 4" area near my vehicle's wheel well about 25 hours ago (over primer and paint that were applied the day before that). I see that rain is coming in about three hours. Will rain damage my new paint job, or am I covered given that the clear coat's been curing for a little over a day? I'm trying to decide if I should apply a makeshift "patch" over the area using plastic from a garbage bag and masking tape. Will contact with the plastic damage the paint job more than the rain? A good way to check for dry clear-coat is; press your thumb into the coated area. As long as the paint/clear has been heated and warmed properly after application, and allowed sufficient time to dry, then your thumb should not leave a thumb print. Press your thumb onto the affected area. No thumbprint, you're probably good to go (if its been 25h). If the clear isn't dry enough, don't apply plastic/tape/garbage over the painted area. That would only leave further markings.
|
#
?
May 15, 2018 18:59
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 14:24 |
|
|
I'm about 6 months into ownership of my first turbocharged car (Fiesta 1.0). It now got warm for the first time, and I could swear that it feels less powerful in 90+ degree ambient temperatures than in the 40-60 degrees of winter. Am I insane, or is there actually a noticeable power difference with temperature swings? It's not the A/C compressor sapping power, I'm a madman who loves really hot temperatures so I reward myself baking in a non-air conditioned car while driving home after sitting in a freezing office all day. I know that like the ST cars, it has some type of overboost functionality when conditions are good. I'm putting in 87 octane gas, which is what the manual calls for.
|
|
#
?
May 15, 2018 19:05
|
|
|
It's normal for cars to feel slightly more sluggish in the heat. Maybe boosting exacerbates that effect. Have you tried putting in premium gas? You probably should just run premium with a turbo, regardless of the manufacturer only requiring 87.
|
|
#
?
May 15, 2018 19:12
|
|
|
Twerk from Home posted:I'm about 6 months into ownership of my first turbocharged car (Fiesta 1.0). It now got warm for the first time, and I could swear that it feels less powerful in 90+ degree ambient temperatures than in the 40-60 degrees of winter. Am I insane, or is there actually a noticeable power difference with temperature swings? It’s probably heat soaking the babby intercooler. If it even has one.
|
|
#
?
May 15, 2018 19:21
|
|
|
I definitely noticed a power difference between hot and cold ambient temperatures when I had my MS3. Air density and all that.
|
|
#
?
May 15, 2018 19:27
|
|
|
Higher Air density making the turbo more effective and thermal efficiency of the intercooler are going to be the biggest contributors. Can confirm that cool air during the spring and fall definitely translate to more power on turbo cars as they can take advantage of it. Hence boost season  If you live somewhere where it gets really cold you lose a little power with a good intercooler since some of the energy is wasted warming up the intake charge and in general atomization of the fuel isn't as good with extremely low intake temps.
|
|
#
?
May 15, 2018 19:45
|
|
|
Does running rich damage an oxy sensor? I know it can stuff up cats but I don't know about the sensor. I've had terrible fuel economy for months and I'd tried replacing the sensor, replace tune up parts and other things. Eventually I noticed the engine temp was getting colder and colder as the weather did. I took off the thermostat housing and there was no thermostat...stupid PO. Also had to play around with the aftermarket elec fan and stat he installed - I originally put down the too cold running temps to the way he installed that. So there's a thermostat in there now and temps going back to normal and fuel consumption has improved a bit, but still nowhere near enough. Going to leave the battery disconnected for a while to see if I can reset it to the default map but still concerned whether my 5 month old oxy sensor might be stuffed already - it used to run so rich during a short cold drive I could smell fuel after parking even though there's no fuel leaks. Hard to test the sensor because it's 3 wire type, so need battery 12v to the sensor while testing, but also the plug is underneath the car - so it's a weather proof sealed screw on coupling plug which makes it hard to read volts.
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2018 12:15
|
|
|
I have a car insurance question. I bought a car for my daughter while she was a full-time student and living at my house. Car in my name, car insurance in my name, but they knew she was to be the primary driver. She went to school and lived with us for 6 months then she graduated but still lived with me for another 6 months driving the car and the car obviously stay at our house. Then she moved to Florida, lived there maybe 2 months and was in an accident, not her fault, 2 months ago. Well during the paper work etc. she gave the underwriters her Florida address as her mailing address. Well I guess this threw up a red flag that the car they were insuring wasn't being garaged at my residence. My insurance calls to question what is going on, and I explain everything stated above. They told me if she is living in Florida I need to transfer the title to her and she needs to get her own insurance. But when I tell them I'm still paying on the car and can not transfer the title to her, they say they don't know what to do and will get back with me when my policy comes up for renewal. I just don't understand what the problem is. They made me feel like I was trying to get over on them or something, when really I had no idea a car I insure had to be garaged at my residence. And the more I think about, I think this can not be a unique situation. This has to happen all the time in some shape or form. So they are going to "research" it and I guess give me some options in August. Am I unwittingly doing something illegal? What do you think is the right thing to do? I know I'm confused, but why is my insurance company confused? EDIT: I googled this... """MY DAUGHTER IS MOVING TO A NEW STATE SOON. SHE’S CURRENTLY ON MY INSURANCE. HOW DO WE UPDATE HER CAR’S TITLE, REGISTRATION, AND INSURANCE IN HER NEW STATE IF I’M THE PRIMARY OWNER OF THE CAR? If the vehicle is currently registered to you, there are a few different ways this may work out. 1. Since you’re the title holder, the new state may allow the vehicle to remain registered solely to you, even though you don’t reside in that state. In this case, you’d likely be considered the primary driver on her insurance and she’d be a listed driver. 2. The new state may allow the vehicle registration to be transferred via gift or sale so your daughter becomes the sole registered owner. In this scenario, your daughter could buy her own insurance and act as the policyholder. 3. The new state may allow the vehicle to be registered to both you and your daughter, where you are still the primary registered owner. Similar to the first scenario, you’d be considered the primary driver on the insurance policy and your daughter would be the secondary driver. 4. The new state may allow the vehicle to be registered to both you and your daughter, where she is the new primary registered owner. If you choose this option, your daughter would be the primary driver on her insurance, but you’d still need to be listed as a driver as well. If there’s no compelling reason for you to stay on the registration, the second option is generally the simplest option. But, if you need to be on the registration because you’re on the vehicle loan or lease, you’ll need to check with your daughter’s new state to see what options they have available.""" But if anyone has anything to add, I appreciate it. FrankeeFrankFrank fucked around with this message at 19:56 on May 16, 2018 |
|
#
?
May 16, 2018 19:37
|
|
|
loving Jeep electrical problems. So a while back I eventually traced the fact that my air conditioner compressor was randomly not engaging, to a 14-pin electrical connector on the firewall (C102) working ever so slightly loose. Opened it up, cleaned it, snapped it back together and engaged the little stupid plastic lock on it. I've also had the connector apart a couple times since to make room in the area for unrelated maintenance jobs, and I suspect the PO's shop did the same in their work on the vehicle. In the past month, this connector has started working its way loose again. I'll be driving down the road, the A/C will go out, I stop and pop the hood, give the connector a slight squeeze, and the compressor instantly clicks back on. So the connector is back to working its way loose again. Looking at the pinout I also see at least one starter-related circuit running through this connector, so potentially this is related to the as-of-yet completely un-replicatable intermittent "click" where it acts like a dead battery instead of cranking. Diagram of the connector in question:  Photo of the motherfucker:  Anyone (kastein?) have any tricks to keeping these connectors fully seated? Should I just slap some zipties around it to keep it squeezed together? Is it at all possible to get parts to just rebuild the mechanical connector itself?
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2018 20:44
|
|
|
Fo3 posted:Does running rich damage an oxy sensor? O2 sensor should be okay. It's not actually unusual to smell fuel after a short drive if your O2 sensor isn't warmed up (and therefore you're running in open loop which will be rich). Also if your cat is deteriorated badly then even more likely to smell fuel.
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2018 20:50
|
|
|
FrankeeFrankFrank posted:"MY DAUGHTER IS MOVING TO A NEW STATE SOON. SHE’S CURRENTLY ON MY INSURANCE. HOW DO WE UPDATE HER CAR’S TITLE, REGISTRATION, AND INSURANCE IN HER NEW STATE IF I’M THE PRIMARY OWNER OF THE CAR? I went through a similar situation where my parent's owned my car when I went to college from Texas, into Georgia. It's not really that complicated, and there's not much to change. Her title doesn't need to be changed, unless you're transferring ownership to her. Then you would sign the title over to her, and have her get the car insured (or keep it insured in your name if that's the case currently) , inspected, and registered in her name, in her new state, when she gets there. Registration doesn't need to change, unless it's time for the car's registration to expire. Then she would take the car to be inspected in her new state, and bring her insurance and inspection paperwork to her new DMV. They would then issue her new registration for the new state. Insurance can be notified with a phone call, and asking them to update the vehicle's status, when and if it's changed. Hopefully some of that helps.
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2018 21:51
|
|
|
IOwnCalculus posted:loving Jeep electrical problems. Just ziptie it and call it a day imo
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2018 21:56
|
|
|
I don't think this is a Subaru specific issue, so I'll ask in this thread: Manual transmission 2002 impreza 2.5 RS. Basically the whole car loving shakes when it comes out of first gear and occasionally 2nd as well. Problem seems to entirely go away after the engine has warmed up/the car has been driven for 10 minutes or so. Google seems to think this is Clutch Chatter but I can only find people asking the same question I am when it comes to this specific problem and not getting any answers. EDIT: Fixed my formatting iSheep fucked around with this message at 01:31 on May 17, 2018 |
|
#
?
May 16, 2018 22:17
|
|
|
VERTiG0 posted:Has anyone come across issues with later model Honda J35 and J37 V6 motors ticking, RPM dependent? My dealer says "hey, that's how they are" a few weeks ago after my '12 TL 3.7 started doing it (135,000km/84,000 miles) but I came alongside a 2-gen old Accord V6 today (2011 or so) and it was ticking too. No replies to this, but in the meantime the car is getting a valve check and adjustment if necessary on Friday. My neighbour is a Honda mechanic at the local Honda dealer where everyone brings their Acuras because there's no Acura dealer for almost 100km, so he's worked on a ton of J37s (albeit mostly in MDXs). He put the stethoscope up to the motor while it was running to see what's what, he thinks the valves are just out of spec. The timing belt tensioner is fine and everything else that would make this noise seems to be okay, so we'll pull the head off of it and check the valves. Christ I hope that's all it is. The car runs absolutely fine though, not down on power, no loss of fuel economy, still pulls hard as hell (even though I'm terrified to do it now).
|
|
#
?
May 16, 2018 22:55
|
|
|
2011 Mazda 3 hatch with the 2.5 Frequent but not constant squeal when applying the brakes. Sounds like passenger rear. Also a wub wub wub wub sound at times when braking. Can't pinpoint it, sometimes it sounds like it's coming from the passenger dash area, sometimes passenger rear. I think this all started after my dad borrowed the car and took it through a touchless car wash yesterday. Brake pads are getting down there but not to the wear indicators yet. Doesn't sound like when I had a wheel bearing going or the raspy grating noise when you need to change the pads ASAP because it's past the wear indicators. No feedback in the steering wheel or brake pedal that I could notice. Thoughts? I'm guessing I just need to get new pads and that'll take care of the squeal, the other noise is mostly what I'm concerned about. Casu Marzu fucked around with this message at 03:35 on May 17, 2018 |
|
#
?
May 17, 2018 01:30
|
|
|
FrankeeFrankFrank posted:Am I unwittingly doing something illegal? Insurance doesn't care who's name is on the title unless they do a total loss on it. She can get her own insurance; just make sure she lists the finance company as an interested party, if required by your loan, and she should probably list you as co-owner. As for the registration - does she live on or off campus? Your leinholder will be the best one to talk to about this; some states allow students to keep their home state plates on, if they're only in the state during the school year. Some states don't. Looks like Florida has a phone number you can call at the DMV to find out - 850-617-2000 - business hours only (7a-5:45p M-F).
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2018 03:28
|
|
|
The Slack Lagoon posted:We have a 2013 Chevy Sonic with 68k on it, we are the only owners and got it with 5 miles on it. I got an odb2 tester and reset the codes. The ac is working again and no engine light had come back on. Should I assume, for now, that replacing the fuse fixed the issue?
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2018 03:42
|
|
|
There's a reason the fuse blew. Whether or not it was because of work the dealer did is unknown. If it blows again, you either have a dying fan motor, or chaffed wiring to the fan. The latter is more likely, and unfortunately, not fun to track down. If it's no longer under any kind of GM warranty, this is something for a good independent mechanic to check out. If you have a warranty (even an extended warranty), I'd suggest having a shop check it for any damage from overheating. If it blows again, do NOT replace it with a larger fuse (unless you like fire). And some cars will throw codes if they overheat, so it's possible the CEL was due to the overheating. For now I'd just drive it and see if the CEL or overheating reappear. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:16 on May 17, 2018 |
|
#
?
May 17, 2018 05:13
|
|
|
Platystemon posted:Constant 0 V is what you would expect with that arrangement regardless of what the computer is doing. So, I've bought an analogue meter and finally got around to do this. It's showing constant voltage, regardless of engine temp, AC being turned on or off and even with the engine off. Could this be normal?
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2018 06:59
|
|
|
I've found out more on my brake issue that has developed poor performance at low speeds. The problem doesn't seem to happen if my blower and A/C are off. That also explains why I started noticing it last week (when it got really hot here in the mid-Atlantic). Couple that with the low speed issue (=low engine RPM) and huge hissing noise when the pedal is depressed does that implicate the brake booster more? I don't have a good idea of how the engine's vacuum and brake booster are coupled. The TSB issue was here and talks about a diaphragm tear that eventually rips bigger. My fear would be going to the dealer and telling them about the TSB but it being something else, I'd likely rather have the work done elsewhere if it's not this. IOwnCalculus posted:When you shut the engine off, does the brake pedal get hard quickly? I can't notice the pedal being harder immediately upon shutoff.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2018 10:50
|
|
|
Jim DiGriz posted:So, I've bought an analogue meter and finally got around to do this. It's showing constant voltage, regardless of engine temp, AC being turned on or off and even with the engine off. Could this be normal? Maybe there’s too much capacitance. Do you have some resistors around? Use the lowest range your (analogue) meter has and a resistor, that when dropping 12 V, will give you in the middle that range. On a 0.5 mA scale, putting a 47 kΩ resistor in series with the meter ought to do it. Directly across the battery, with 47 kΩ resistor resistor in series, it should read about 0.25 mA. When connected from the positive relay supply to the control pin, it should read 0 mA when the fan is supposed to be off and something between 0 and 0.25 mA (possibly vibrating) when the fan is commanded on.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2018 11:42
|
|
|
I'm looking at some maintenance bits on the Crown Vic. It's been a while since I've used Rockauto, does anyone know offhand if they sell brake rotors individually? Advance Auto Parts lists them at $54 for a set of two rears (Motorcraft just to compare apples to apples), Rockauto has $34 but doesn't really say if that's for a set of 2 (which is a steal) or an individual rotor (in which case AAP is the better deal). I mostly want to get my parking brake working, for all I know the drum inside the rotor hat is fine and thus the rotor won't need replacing; just asking in case it does become relevant.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2018 12:13
|
|
|
STR posted:Insurance doesn't care who's name is on the title unless they do a total loss on it. She can get her own insurance; just make sure she lists the finance company as an interested party, if required by your loan, and she should probably list you as co-owner. Thanks
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2018 12:46
|
|
|
Platystemon posted:Maybe there’s too much capacitance. I've accidentally managed to find a used relay, put it in and the fans come on normally since then, so apparently the new replacement one was busted. So crisis averted for now, I'll try and have it replaced. Thank you for all the advice! I'm definitely saving it for the certainly upcoming next occasion.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2018 12:49
|
|
|
STR posted:There's a reason the fuse blew. Whether or not it was because of work the dealer did is unknown. Okay, thanks. If the CEL comes on again I'll take it to our mechanic. I believe it is off warranty and I don't know that there is an extended warranty.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2018 13:25
|
|
|
Enourmo posted:It's been a while since I've used Rockauto, does anyone know offhand if they sell brake rotors individually? Never needed to buy a single rotor from RA but I've never seen anything that would indicate they're sold in pairs.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2018 15:40
|
|
|
Yeah I've never seen anyone sell rotors in pairs, but I also never bother shopping advance since they don't have any stores here.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2018 15:59
|
|
|
Metal Geir Skogul posted:How's the serpentine and pulleys? Can you pull the belt off and spin each pulley by hand to see how smooth they turn? Might be a little beyond my paygrade, but I'll definitely give it a shot. Upon further inspection, I could definitely see and hear some nasty vibrations going down around the serpentine or alt belt. I think the smoke was from some poor accessory burning up, rather than from a fluid. Still smelled like rear end after sitting for 2 days.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2018 16:55
|
|
|
I bought a 2012 Prius in August (on the advice of these forums and I'm very happy with it) and I park in the carport at our apartments. I noticed this morning what I'm pretty sure was a mouse turd on my passenger seat when I got in to head to work and I'm not sure what my next step should be. At the very least, I'm due for an oil change anyway so I'll be asking my mechanic to look for any mouse damage; what else can/should I do about this? I'm going to also write to the condo association because there are bound to be more of the little guys around, too.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2018 17:11
|
|
|
Ignoranus posted:I bought a 2012 Prius in August (on the advice of these forums and I'm very happy with it) and I park in the carport at our apartments. I noticed this morning what I'm pretty sure was a mouse turd on my passenger seat when I got in to head to work and I'm not sure what my next step should be. At the very least, I'm due for an oil change anyway so I'll be asking my mechanic to look for any mouse damage; what else can/should I do about this? I'm going to also write to the condo association because there are bound to be more of the little guys around, too. This is a complex situation, and deserves serious attention. My first thoughts are, you have 2 options... 1. Convert your vehicle into a mouse trap. Follow this blueprint..  2. You could embrace the whole scenario and trade-up into a rat..  Make sure you talk to the condo association quickly. You don't want the situation to get out of control.. 
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2018 17:21
|
|
|
Sorry if this has been asked a million times, but I just bought some Maguires Quik interior detailing product yesterday and want to know if this will be a good fit for maintining the interior dashboard and paneling in my 2015 Kia Optima EX. I keep reading stuff about how armor all type products have alcohol or silicone products in them that drys out or ruins materials if you don’t keep applying it over and over and I’d like to avoid that.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2018 20:56
|
|
|
Bleh Maestro posted:Sorry if this has been asked a million times, but I just bought some Maguires Quik interior detailing product yesterday and want to know if this will be a good fit for maintining the interior dashboard and paneling in my 2015 Kia Optima EX. I keep reading stuff about how armor all type products have alcohol or silicone products in them that drys out or ruins materials if you don’t keep applying it over and over and I’d like to avoid that. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3474488 That's the link to AI's detailing thread; also a good place to ask. I've worked as a detailer at body shop's, and mobile detailing. I've never had any problems using Meguire's products. Just make sure to only use the Vinyl/Rubber protectant on the interior dash/paneling. Meguire's products tend to have better longevity and integrity than an Armor All product, so I wouldn't worry about your interior cracking down the road from having used some interior spray. That also gets really expensive though. You would be surprised to learn that most mobile interior detailers just use a soap and water compound to wipe down, then dry the interior's on the vehicles they work on. If we were working in a parking garage, doing 20+ car details a day for some business, we couldnt waste time working with 3 or 4 different interior products to get a good finish. Most of the time, soap and water applied with a microfiber towel, and then dried off with a microfiber towel will do just fine. Also, this applies to cloth seats as well.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2018 21:03
|
|
|
Bleh Maestro posted:Sorry if this has been asked a million times, but I just bought some Maguires Quik interior detailing product yesterday and want to know if this will be a good fit for maintining the interior dashboard and paneling in my 2015 Kia Optima EX. I keep reading stuff about how armor all type products have alcohol or silicone products in them that drys out or ruins materials if you don’t keep applying it over and over and I’d like to avoid that. Any plastic conditioner will have to be applied over and over again to keep the plastic from drying out, because drying out is what plastics do. All plastics are brittle and crack easily in their pure state. They all have stuff dissolved into them that makes them soft and pliable - called "plasticizers." These plasticizers tend to be oily liquids (dibutylphthalate is a common one). They don't evaporate very fast, but they all do eventually. As the platicizer evaporates out, the plastic left behind gradually shrinks, gets brittle, and cracks. Exposure to hot sunlight will exacerbate it. The hazy film that develops on the inside of your windshield is the result of plasticizer evaporation. Anyway, the main thing to avoid is solvent-based stuff that will leech the plasticizer out and end up doing more harm than good. Silicone stuff should be fine, as silicone oil will act as a plasticizer itself and keep it soft.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2018 21:12
|
|
|
Geoj posted:Never needed to buy a single rotor from RA but I've never seen anything that would indicate they're sold in pairs. IOwnCalculus posted:Yeah I've never seen anyone sell rotors in pairs, but I also never bother shopping advance since they don't have any stores here.  The highlighted bit is what I was seeing, but I guess that could just mean "Yo the car has 2, hth". I know pads are usually sold in sets of 4, maybe I was just mixing up with that in my head. In any case, if they are singles on both sites then RA is clearly the way to go, what a shocker. Hopefully any parts I order there I can tetris so they all ship from the same warehouse. Oh, also, I finally got the ABS code read, it's B1342, which apparently means the ABS module is bad. Is there any homegrown way to reset the code and see if it trips again? Rain was coming at the shop so I didn't wanna hold the dude up. Fender Anarchist fucked around with this message at 23:33 on May 17, 2018 |
|
#
?
May 17, 2018 23:29
|
|
|
Yeah that looks like it says "2 required" as in two required for the car, not "this price gets you two". And yeah for whatever reason rotors / drums are sold singly, but pads and shoes are sold in axle sets.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2018 23:56
|
|
|
I bet it's a combination of: If a dumbass only replaces one rotor, it's only a few stomps on the brake pedal before everything is re-calibrated and the car doesn't pull* anymore. If they replace only one wheel of pads, every stop they could (depending on condition of old and new pads) pull them all over the place. Having only one rotor also lowers the shown price, which probably increases sales of replacement rotors because there's a lower perceived barrier to purchase (even if in the end you do both at once). I'm glad they only sell pads in axle sets, otherwise you'd see a lot more people only replacing the outer pad on each caliper or whatever to save money. *too badly, comparatively.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2018 23:58
|
|
|
Enourmo posted:Oh, also, I finally got the ABS code read, it's B1342, which apparently means the ABS module is bad. Is there any homegrown way to reset the code and see if it trips again? Rain was coming at the shop so I didn't wanna hold the dude up. So Google is turning up that COULD be bad wheel speed sensors or the harness to the ABS module. If you already have a BT dongle, Forscan can delve pretty deep (Android or Windows). To actually swap out an ABS module, you'll need Forscan for Windows. To do anything related to PATS, you'll need the extended license (free for 2 or 3 months, according to their website). Forscan for Windows is free at the moment. I couldn't figure out if Forscan Lite for Android (a little under $5) could reset the ABS module, but if you already have a BT-enabled laptop and OBD2 dongle, grab the free Windows application instead.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2018 06:45
|
|
|
My wife is saying her 2014 Odyssey is starting to shift a lot harder (coincidentally, she reports this after going on a week long trip with her dad, who is very fussy about his GMCs and thinks we shouldn't have bought a 'cheap import' because he lives on planet 1971) Anyway, apparently there's a software update from Honda that fixes this issue. Does anyone know what the ballpark cost is for taking something to the dealership and getting software patches? Its under a recall anyway for one of the middle seats so it's going in soon regardless.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2018 16:00
|
|
|
other than blood sweat and tears, what is the best way to get out a stubborn rusted bushing? Replacing a front control arm and the SOB is rusted in on the chassis side. I can spin the bolt and got the nut off but the area that I have to push on has virtually no leverage. This one here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RyId2aTQslM
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2018 16:12
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 15, 2024 14:24 |
|
|
tactlessbastard posted:My wife is saying her 2014 Odyssey is starting to shift a lot harder (coincidentally, she reports this after going on a week long trip with her dad, who is very fussy about his GMCs and thinks we shouldn't have bought a 'cheap import' because he lives on planet 1971) Software updates should be free I would assume but you'll have to call the dealer to confirm.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2018 16:18
|
|