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Deteriorata posted:Any plastic conditioner will have to be applied over and over again to keep the plastic from drying out, because drying out is what plastics do. Very helpful, and educational info. Really appreciate it!
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May 18, 2018 18:43
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IOwnCalculus posted:loving Jeep electrical problems. So is the connector coming apart, or it isn't making contact once it's together? If it's plugged in but they aren't making contact, then you might want to get out some picks and tiny flatheads, take the female socket apart and give the female connectors all a tiny squeeze. Pull the battery cable and try each one against a male pin to make sure each one is snug, then put it all back together. You would probably have an easier time finding the contacts inside the connector. You'd have to spend some time poking around somewhere like Mouser or Digikey, but I bet you could find the contacts inside. Is there maker's mark cast into the plastic? That can help narrow down things immensely. Edit: contact cleaners like DeoxIT can help too. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 20:06 on May 18, 2018 |
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May 18, 2018 20:01
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tactlessbastard posted:My wife is saying her 2014 Odyssey is starting to shift a lot harder (coincidentally, she reports this after going on a week long trip with her dad, who is very fussy about his GMCs and thinks we shouldn't have bought a 'cheap import' because he lives on planet 1971) If it's under warranty there won't be any cost to you at all.
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May 18, 2018 20:08
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kid sinister posted:So is the connector coming apart, or it isn't making contact once it's together? If it's plugged in but they aren't making contact, then you might want to get out some picks and tiny flatheads, take the female socket apart and give the female connectors all a tiny squeeze. Pull the battery cable and try each one against a male pin to make sure each one is snug, then put it all back together. I haven't looked closely enough at it but giving the two parts a squeeze fixes it. I think you're probably onto it with cleaning and tightening it by tweaking things a bit.
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May 18, 2018 20:59
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IOwnCalculus posted:I haven't looked closely enough at it but giving the two parts a squeeze fixes it. I think you're probably onto it with cleaning and tightening it by tweaking things a bit. Forgot one important thing before you go taking the plug apart. Take good pictures of where all the wires go back to before you start taking them out of the plugs. Sometimes wires aren't the same color on both sides of a plug and socket...
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May 19, 2018 18:03
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Deteriorata posted:If it's under warranty there won't be any cost to you at all. Well, poo poo. They have a TSB out for this issue good up until 60k miles. My van has 62k argh
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May 19, 2018 20:15
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I am a complete beginner when it comes to car maintenance. I have a 2014 vw polo se design in white with gloss black wing mirrors. My delightful neighbors kid hit my passenger side wing mirror with enough force to crack the out housing and smash the plastic 'glass' on the indicator too. The mirror still works fine, heating up and turning with the in car controls etc but I am worried about rain getting into the interior and messing up the electrics. As a first real car idiot I still want to try and replace the cover myself, I've seen a few videos and it's simple enough. But I'm struggling to find parts and having never bought parts online I don't know what looks reputable, or whther I'm even searching for the right things. Am I better off taking it to the garage and eating the high cost or is there somewhere I can buy the gloss version casing on its own? I've only found matt black online. Sorry if this is the wrong place to ask! I figured goons are better help to me than just googling around.
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May 19, 2018 20:17
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tactlessbastard posted:Well, poo poo. They have a TSB out for this issue good up until 60k miles. My van has 62k argh If you call the dealer and/or customer care you might be able to get it for free or discounted if you ask nicely. I’ve seen goodwill gestures like this, especially if you have dealer service records.
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May 19, 2018 20:21
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pumpie2 posted:I am a complete beginner when it comes to car maintenance. I have a 2014 vw polo se design in white with gloss black wing mirrors. My delightful neighbors kid hit my passenger side wing mirror with enough force to crack the out housing and smash the plastic 'glass' on the indicator too. Call the dealership, ask for a part number. Then use rockauto or something similar to get the part. Once you have a part number it becomes trivially easy to get the part online. There's a few big names, but I have no qualms about ordering from a smaller outfit either. fake edit: I have a completely unrelated stupid question I've been meaning to ask for ages now. Why is it that when driving a pickup over railway tracks there's noticeably less of a *thump* from the rear end if you apply the brakes before going over?
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May 19, 2018 20:23
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:If you call the dealer and/or customer care you might be able to get it for free or discounted if you ask nicely. I’ve seen goodwill gestures like this, especially if you have dealer service records. It was at the dealership that they told me that. It was the weekend crew and she did give me the card of the service manager to call during the week to see if he'll approve it. Meanwhile, they kept the drat van for almost 4 hours doing a bunch of recall work on the seats so there's that done at least. And they got me logged as in there at 62k with a verified by the technician transmission issue.
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May 19, 2018 23:35
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Breakfast Feud posted:I have a completely unrelated stupid question I've been meaning to ask for ages now. Why is it that when driving a pickup over railway tracks there's noticeably less of a *thump* from the rear end if you apply the brakes before going over? Breaking transfers weight to the front axle.
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May 20, 2018 06:15
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In the ambulance, we had to be very careful with critical patients and speed bumps. You learned quickly where the bumps were and how to handle each different truck's brakes on them. Never braking hard before contacting the front axle on the bump (would make it worse upon impact) and always braking as the rear axle crested (to shift weight forward a bit so the rear tires hitting the ground wasn't as bad). For some specific bumps it was better to power through, braking before but gassing it a bit to keep the patient level and utilize the suspension. For Phoenix goons, crossing Washington/Jefferson northbound to get on the 51 is a big one, going from the airport to Banner Good Sam/University. Did that nearly daily for flight patients. Some hospitals put speedbumps on their ambulance driveways because they hated us I guess? Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 07:12 on May 20, 2018 |
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May 20, 2018 07:09
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My 97 Ranger 4.0 had a check engine light, my el crappo Bluetooth obdII dongle failed, and I took it to the local mechanic who last week replaced the starter. Bad EGR valve, and now she runs much smoother, especially on cold starts. So, I guess the EGR was jammed open. My stupid question is: why would replacing the EGR change the throttle feel? Before, the gas pedal was loose and kinda floppy, but now it's quite stiff. Does the EGR interact with the throttle directly, or just sit close enough that the throttle has to be moved out of the way to replace the EGR?
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May 20, 2018 14:17
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ExecuDork posted:My 97 Ranger 4.0 had a check engine light, my el crappo Bluetooth obdII dongle failed, and I took it to the local mechanic who last week replaced the starter. Bad EGR valve, and now she runs much smoother, especially on cold starts. So, I guess the EGR was jammed open. My stupid question is: why would replacing the EGR change the throttle feel? Before, the gas pedal was loose and kinda floppy, but now it's quite stiff. Does the EGR interact with the throttle directly, or just sit close enough that the throttle has to be moved out of the way to replace the EGR? Directly? No. EGR = Exhaust Gas Recirculation. Basically, the computer monitors your exhaust emissions. If it has too much unburnt gas in it, the computer opens the EGR to send a portion of the exhaust back into the intake manifold, past the throttle body. So yeah, there's a significant delay in you pushing the pedal, the gas and air getting burnt, pushed out, then getting possibly sent through the EGR again. But yes, they're mounted to the upper intake manifold just like the throttle body where the accelerator cable connects. That could be something as simple as the mechanic seeing a piece of something jammed by the throttle cable and worked it loose. Another thing I can think of is that the EGR had a leak. It could have been the EGR itself, or even replacing it means replacing its gasket too. That's another source of vacuum leak. Plugging up vacuum leaks means your engine is more dependent on your throttle for air, making the accelerator more responsive. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 18:57 on May 20, 2018 |
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May 20, 2018 18:53
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I don't know where else I could post this on the forums, besides maybe the general A&T thread.. I need a 1 day car rental from San Antonio to Houston, and back to S.A. I need to go visit a friend there; what's the latest or most effective way to find a cheap car rental these days? I don't want to spend a lot of cash on this trip. Anyone familiar with finding cheap car rentals?
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May 20, 2018 19:07
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Costco.
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May 20, 2018 19:42
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Dennis McClaren posted:I don't know where else I could post this on the forums, besides maybe the general A&T thread.. Priceline and use name your price. I’ve got rentals as low as $9 a day this way.
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May 20, 2018 20:45
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Is there a non-garbage Honda forum out there? I’m very close to pulling the trigger on a new 2.0T 6MT accord and I’d like a place to talk accords without the :lol2f2f: chat
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May 21, 2018 01:27
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kid sinister posted:That could be something as simple as the mechanic seeing a piece of something jammed by the throttle cable and worked it loose. Thanks. I think it's probably the mechanic was fiddling around and worked something loose or adjusted something or tightened a screw or otherwise did some small thing that resulted in me noticing something different. The new EGR is shiny brass, and there's a blob of shiny brass that looks like solder or welding where a thin hose attaches to a pipe emerging from the exhaust manifold; that thin hose goes to the new EGR so I think he also fixed that connection point. Possibly there was a leak there. And there could have been other vacuum leaks around. It runs really nicely now, in any case.
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May 21, 2018 03:00
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1996 Starlet: Has always made whooshing air noises at highway speeds, sounds like it was coming from the top of the car. I'd assumed it was the roof racks but when I took them off, same thing. Could this beginning of rust along the windscreen be the culprit? Door seals seem OK and the noise *sounds* like it's coming from the middle.  If so, I've got some body puddy (or JB Weld) I could use to fill it. This is a $500 car and looks the part cosmetically, so I'm not too concerned about appearance or resale value, what's the recommended quick and dirty solution? I figured I'd use steel wool to get as much of the rust out, then fill. Might paint over it with some red acrylic I have laying around because why not. Second question: on cold starts in the morning I often get a petrol smell in the cabin (can kinda smell outside too) for a minute or so. It doesn't do this when I'm leaving work 8 hours later (similar outdoor temps) though. Where should I start looking? edit: looking back at my post history, no way I'm gonna try and repaint this thing even though there's basically nothing to lose. Currently doing a 'good enough' job on my KLR's plastics and it's been a big PITA that's dragged on forever (nature of the job + weather and work schedule). Can't imagine doing multiple times the surface area, masking, etc... my hat is definitely off to those who do! pumpie2 posted:My delightful neighbors kid hit my passenger side wing mirror with enough force to crack the out housing and smash the plastic 'glass' on the indicator too. This sounds like your neighbours' problem, not yours... Ethics_Gradient fucked around with this message at 07:35 on May 21, 2018 |
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May 21, 2018 07:26
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Ethics_Gradient posted:1996 Starlet: Sand out all the rust, degrease, fill with putty and smooth out, prime, paint. If you don't get rid of the rust completely before using the putty and paint it'll just rust underneath. There's paints you can paint over rust with but then it'll remain bumpy and it won't fix your wind noise. (Provided that's the source of the noise) Or, you know, deal with the fact that your $500 shitbox makes some noise. v  v
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May 21, 2018 08:51
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Calling VAG nerds! Some loving goof i know bought an Audi a6 and I said id take a look at the brakes. Now im in the garage scratching my head. 2000 audi a6 2.7t Some chuckle gently caress put calipers and brakes on his poo poo and now theres no pedal and a grinding noise. So i inspect the fronts. Both pad sensor wires are cut and wired to each other, Inside the rotor is completly ground. The brake line is literally hanging by a few threads on the right front. ok that explains the no pedal. Pull the caliper off.  What the gently caress? Is this the wrong caliper?
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May 21, 2018 15:09
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Moreso, if i do a search of the part on AZ they say its a match. On napa however with the vin entered, they show pads with wear sensors. and different calipers altogether. These pads do not have wears sensors obviously what smartbrains cut the harness.
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May 21, 2018 15:36
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What is the smallest vehicle capable of fitting a full 4x8 sheet of plywood inside? My Impala is almost paid off, about to hit 80K miles, and I guess that means it is time to assume another loan. I kinda like the wife's Acadia since it has decent mileage, ground clearance, and a better tow rating than a minivan, but it can not fit a full sheet of plywood inside. I think the next best option would be a minivan, but I'm hoping there might be other options available. I imagine a larger a SUV like a Tahoe would fit plywood inside but I don't need or want something that big. As for a pickup, I think something like a Ranger might be OK except then I don't think they came with a bed long enough for plywood to sit flat (not a real big deal) and I think the mileage is as bad or worse than a minivan. I have never tried to haul plywood on a roof rack, I suppose that is an option but if possible I would prefer to lay it flat in the vehicle, or leave it hanging out the back window.
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May 21, 2018 18:08
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Dimensionally a 1969-1979 VW Transporter is probably the smallest vehicle that can do a full 4x8 sheet of plywood. I carried plywood in mine, and it touched both walls and the rear of the front seats and the rear doors, and being a structural mess of a 70's vehicle, the walls were only 1-2 inches thick in places.   Of course, modern vehicles are gigantic compared to a VW bus (seriously, look at those pics, a bus only has height over anything, dimensionally they're tiny). I've simply googled "sheet of plywood smallest car" and found a few reddit threads discussing it. Seems that a minivan with removable or storable seating is your best option.
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May 21, 2018 18:16
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Minivan is probably the answer. I just rented a Pacifica this past weekend to do that very thing. It took 2 minutes to dump all the seats into the floor and it gobbled up sheets of wallboard with an inch or two to spare.
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May 21, 2018 18:17
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Some estate cars (station wagons) can do it.
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May 21, 2018 21:52
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My 97 Outback Legacy couldn't do a full sheet without trickery. Do newer outbacks have more interior space? Man I miss that wagon.
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May 21, 2018 21:57
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Platystemon posted:Some estate cars (station wagons) can do it. What large wagons exist in the US market other than the Subaru Outback?
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May 21, 2018 21:59
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Twerk from Home posted:What large wagons exist in the US market other than the Subaru Outback? The Outback is not a large wagon 
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May 21, 2018 22:02
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Looking at a 98 V6 4WD Honda Passport 5psd with 212k on it for ~$1300. It's not no obvious issues, but on something this age I know it's coming. Were these of similar reliability to the accords of this age or is this something that's likely going to leave me high and dry before too long?
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May 21, 2018 22:23
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Twerk from Home posted:What large wagons exist in the US market other than the Subaru Outback? No new ones. But an old wagon is a better option than a VW bus.
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May 22, 2018 00:20
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Crotch Fruit posted:What is the smallest vehicle capable of fitting a full 4x8 sheet of plywood inside? 
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May 22, 2018 00:50
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Good news! The dealership called and they're going to perform the transmission flush and software update for free. Then, oddly, this evening, the sales department called and wanted to know if I was ready to trade in my van. I mean, sure if this doesn't fix the transmission lol.
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May 22, 2018 01:00
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A buick century has more interior space than a subaru outback? Subaru
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May 22, 2018 01:42
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2006 Saturn Ion. The windshield leaks when it rains. The rubber trim along the top of the windshield also loves to pop out and slap the roof of the car at highway speeds, so it's in the trunk for now (certainly explains all the loving tape residue on the roof...) What is this piece called (aside from "windshield trim")? I need to order a new one that isn't sun baked. And am I correct in assuming it doesn't do all that much to actually seal the windshield against the elements? I'm getting sick of putting masking tape along the gap every time it rains. Suggestions for actually sealing it? I originally thought it was the sunroof leaking, but I sealed it up with (3M outdoor) masking tape, drove it in the rain, and still got a wet headliner/water dripping at the top of the A pillar (and running down the pillar into the dash). Not the original windshield. Definitely an 8am Monday or 5pm Friday car overall, though. In the ~5 weeks I've had it, I've put more work into it than I put into the last Saturd in 5 1/2 years. DeesGrandpa posted:Looking at a 98 V6 4WD Honda Passport 5psd with 212k on it for ~$1300. It's not no obvious issues, but on something this age I know it's coming. Were these of similar reliability to the accords of this age or is this something that's likely going to leave me high and dry before too long? They weren't anywhere near any other Honda in reliability; you're looking at a rebadged Isuzu Rodeo. There's nothing Honda about them except for the badging and lights. I do want to say one year model may have used an actual Honda engine (this is digging way back in my memory, and I haven't been able to verify this with a couple of minutes of Google-fu), but the majority were 100% Isuzu running gear. One of my old mechanics, who only worked on Honda/Acura, told me he wouldn't work on it if I bought one (I asked him his opinion when I considered one ages ago). There's nothing inherently wrong with them, but Isuzu has never been close to Honda in reliability. They're decent for what they are, and for $1300, it's not a bad vehicle, particularly if you're looking for a 4x4 5 speed SUV (if it's in decent shape and runs well, I'd probably grab it myself). Honda rebadged them when SUVs started becoming popular until they could design their own SUV. It should be on its third timing belt by now; at that price, count on it being on the original or second. The timing belts are good for ~100k, so plan/budget for replacement. I wouldn't count on the truck itself making it to 300k without major problems, unless you do a ton of highway driving, but for $1300, if it lasts a year you're already ahead (doubly so if the ac works). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 08:07 on May 22, 2018 |
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May 22, 2018 06:57
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Metal Geir Skogul posted:A buick century has more interior space than a subaru outback? That's a Roadmaster, dog. 2 feet longer than a modern Outback, 4 feet longer than the first-gen.
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May 22, 2018 09:18
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Quick question that only needs a quick answer. I've got two surfaces that are going to rub together. Both steel, unsure what grade/type of steel, except that its not stainless. I need them to not rub together. Permanent solution is some sort of composite wear pad that is on back order apparently. So I'm going to have to wait for a couple months. In the mean time I need to put something in between these two surfaces. I don't need it to be over thought too much, I've decided on brass or aluminum, since they're both softer than steel. Should I go with brass since its a bit harder/probably more wear resistant than aluminum? These are just small pieces, so price isn't really an issue. I'd guess that a piece of the appropriate size would be less than 50 bucks in either material. The composite pads are like 1200 bucks!!
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May 22, 2018 14:59
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Is there a place online where I can get a service manual for a 1998 2.5 ford ranger? Free or at a cost? Googling around brings me to a bunch of bullshit sites that don't actually have the manual.
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May 22, 2018 17:33
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/\/\/\ Also interested. It's not far at all from a 98 2.5 to my 97 4.0.Crotch Fruit posted:As for a pickup, I think something like a Ranger might be OK except then I don't think they came with a bed long enough for plywood to sit flat (not a real big deal) and I think the mileage is as bad or worse than a minivan. I have never tried to haul plywood on a roof rack, I suppose that is an option but if possible I would prefer to lay it flat in the vehicle, or leave it hanging out the back window. Gas mileage on a "small" pickup will be worse than a similar sized minivan, yes.
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May 22, 2018 17:57
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