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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Awesome, thanks. That's exactly the kind of starting point I'm looking for. Adding to SRM’s advice, if you want to paint in the same color as your bases, you can get get flat interior paint color matched at a hardware store. You should be able to get it in pints which isn’t too expensive. I did that for my old display board and gaming table surface.
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May 21, 2018 23:38
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Booyah- posted:Anything with a tank. Most people including me start with this one: Any recommendations for a step up from that that doesn't have the "may break in 6 months" issue?
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May 22, 2018 00:15
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The Moon Monster posted:Any recommendations for a step up from that that doesn't have the "may break in 6 months" issue? not that i've used, but brands to look at are Paasche and Sparmax
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May 22, 2018 00:25
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berzerkmonkey posted:Like Spectralent said, smaller tends to be easier. Don't go crazy with detail (not that there is a ton) and washes will seriously take everything up a notch. My buddy does High Elves and he put decals on the shields - you may not want to go that far, but they do look amazing. Motherfuck, really? I've looked at that blog quite a bit, and was actually considering asking how he did the various conversions, mainly for the Dragon Princes. I mean yeah, the last post regarding Warmaster was back in '16, which is why I was hesitant, but if you know him IRL, I'd definitely appreciate any sort of help on the conversion side of things. As I mentioned in my earlier post, the alternate High Elf units are all about $50ish, assuming one can even find them, and while I do have a little extra cash laying around, I'm not super excited to be dropping another $150ish for three units when I've picked up about 18 off of eBay for $200.
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May 22, 2018 00:56
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  https://www.instagram.com/p/BjCadbwna3J/ Finished another two Gaslands cars last night. Rushed the weathering though so not as happy as the last. Ah well.
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May 22, 2018 03:51
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I finished up Magore's Friends. Fiends! Magore's Fiends for Shadespire the other night - I'm pretty pleased with how they turned out. I'm sort of in a "subdued color palette" phase, and using red as only minimal spot coloring on a Khorne warband is just me being contrarian. Then the skull pits on the bases are GW Spooky Ghost Turquoise (TM) instead of lava for some balance with the warm palette on the models, plus ghost pits are more in-setting for the city of Shadespire itself than lava fissures.
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May 22, 2018 05:10
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Fyrbrand posted:Adding to SRM’s advice, if you want to paint in the same color as your bases, you can get get flat interior paint color matched at a hardware store. You should be able to get it in pints which isn’t too expensive. I did that for my old display board and gaming table surface. In my case I plan on doing the crackle texture and airbrush with the right color since I will want to keep the detail. I forgot who it was but there's a company that sells the crackle paint in pretty big jars. I will have put hundreds of hours into painting this army so I don't mind spending a bit to ensure the display board looks good.
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May 22, 2018 06:24
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Giant Ethicist posted:I finished up Magore's Friends. Fiends! Magore's Fiends for Shadespire the other night - I'm pretty pleased with how they turned out. I'm sort of in a "subdued color palette" phase, and using red as only minimal spot coloring on a Khorne warband is just me being contrarian. Then the skull pits on the bases are GW Spooky Ghost Turquoise (TM) instead of lava for some balance with the warm palette on the models, plus ghost pits are more in-setting for the city of Shadespire itself than lava fissures. those are rad! I love blood warrior schemes that aren't the standard red and gold
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May 22, 2018 08:34
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Dear Avenging Dentist, Please add the following paints for yellows: VGC 72.038 Scrofulous Brown (base coat) VMA 71.078 RLM04 Yellow (main color) If anyone has disagreements, post a reply! Thank you, Me. dexefiend fucked around with this message at 14:03 on May 22, 2018 |
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May 22, 2018 13:55
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Giant Ethicist posted:I finished up Magore's Friends. Fiends! Magore's Fiends for Shadespire the other night - I'm pretty pleased with how they turned out. I'm sort of in a "subdued color palette" phase, and using red as only minimal spot coloring on a Khorne warband is just me being contrarian. Then the skull pits on the bases are GW Spooky Ghost Turquoise (TM) instead of lava for some balance with the warm palette on the models, plus ghost pits are more in-setting for the city of Shadespire itself than lava fissures. Talk about your difficult terrain
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May 22, 2018 16:19
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I'm finally getting around to buying supplies to start miniature painting again, and I have two questions. First, I'm looking at getting some nice quality brushes that can last a while. Based on previous advice, I've picked up that Winsor & Newton Series 7 Kolinsky Sable brushes are best. If I'm painting figures and not vehicles, would Pointed Round, size 0, 1, and 2 brushes be best? Or should I go 00, 0, and 1? I don't want to spend too much money on brushes I won't use much. Second, an Amazon search for Masters Brush Cleaner brings up a bunch of different results. What quantity should I be looking at (1 oz? 2.5 oz?)? Also, how do you use it with small brushes like those used for miniature painting?
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May 22, 2018 16:43
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dexefiend posted:Dear Avenging Dentist, Ok! Do you have any details about them, like what properties you like or how you typically use them? I try to put a short description in my list to help people pick out the paint they should buy.
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May 22, 2018 17:04
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MeinPanzer posted:I'm finally getting around to buying supplies to start miniature painting again, and I have two questions. I do everything with a 1. Got some 00 and 0's, but the 1 keeps a good enough tip that they never see any use.
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May 22, 2018 17:12
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Aniodia posted:Motherfuck, really? I've looked at that blog quite a bit, and was actually considering asking how he did the various conversions, mainly for the Dragon Princes. I mean yeah, the last post regarding Warmaster was back in '16, which is why I was hesitant, but if you know him IRL, I'd definitely appreciate any sort of help on the conversion side of things. As I mentioned in my earlier post, the alternate High Elf units are all about $50ish, assuming one can even find them, and while I do have a little extra cash laying around, I'm not super excited to be dropping another $150ish for three units when I've picked up about 18 off of eBay for $200. MeinPanzer posted:First, I'm looking at getting some nice quality brushes that can last a while. Based on previous advice, I've picked up that Winsor & Newton Series 7 Kolinsky Sable brushes are best. If I'm painting figures and not vehicles, would Pointed Round, size 0, 1, and 2 brushes be best? Or should I go 00, 0, and 1? I don't want to spend too much money on brushes I won't use much. berzerkmonkey fucked around with this message at 20:55 on May 22, 2018 |
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May 22, 2018 17:15
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Avenging Dentist posted:Ok! Do you have any details about them, like what properties you like or how you typically use them? I try to put a short description in my list to help people pick out the paint they should buy. Scrofulous Brown is a good color to put down before painting yellow (underpainting is key for yellow). It doubles as a shadow. VMA RLM04 Yellow has great saturation, and complements Scrofulous Brown perfectly. I don't know all the correct painting terms.
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May 22, 2018 17:25
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berzerkmonkey posted:I'd take them, but I don't have PM - can you email me at portablezombie at geemail? Sent
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May 22, 2018 18:41
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I'd go size 00, 1, and 3, personally
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May 22, 2018 18:59
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Yeah, when you need a brush smaller than the 1 you want it to be really really small. Larger than the 1, I just go with cheapo flat brushes since all I want is the area coverage.
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May 22, 2018 19:22
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I only ever use my 00, 0, and 1 brushes and never touch my 2 or 3.
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May 22, 2018 19:29
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dexefiend posted:VMA RLM04 Yellow has great saturation, and complements Scrofulous Brown perfectly. Just to be sure, when you say "saturation", do you mean that it has good coverage (i.e. there's lots of pigment so you don't need too many coats), or that the final color is just really vibrant?
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May 22, 2018 19:51
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I paint everything with an army painter monster brush.
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May 22, 2018 19:57
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dexefiend posted:Dear Avenging Dentist, I have scrofulous brown and it's honestly kind of a bitch to use. It has this weird gel-like consistency that makes it extremely difficult to thin properly with water. Flow improver mitigates that and makes it fine for base coating large flat areas but then unsuitable for raised details. Is there some trick to using it or did I maybe get a bad batch? That said, the actual color is very nice/useful.
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May 22, 2018 21:16
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I recently came back to building scale models and painting figurines after a 20+ years break. I'm re-learning a ton of stuff and it's so much better now with this thing called Internet. I found out that I personally like Vallejo paints a lot but most online tutorials use Citadel paints. I looked at a lot of online "conversion charts" (or "correspondences" as Vallejo correctly puts it) and most of them are not up-to-date, look ancient and are just not very modern. So I'm building my own website for this now. I want to put all brands catalogues into an online database and link them together. I have about 1300 different paints so far. It's all going to be accessible through a website and probably a mobile app someday (I built a whole REST API for that). And it'll be under a Creative Commons license. The website itself will be open source. For now the catalogues I have are: Citadel (new), RAL, Reaper MSP, Tamiya, Vallejo Game/Model (regular and air) and Warpaints. I want to add the Federal Standard, Citadel (old) and maybe Umbrol and Revell too. Is there any other brand I should consider ? The website is going to be free and ad-free. I might add things like Amazon Affiliates just to pay the hosting but that's not decided yet. I want to add extra features like "Favorites", "Shopping list", the ability to lookup by barcode (and brand reference number obviously) and "Paint schemes" (where you can regroup all the paints you used for a given unit so you don't have to remember what loving paints you used for that Orruk 4 months ago). I might add this as a "premium" feature requiring an account that pays like $5/year or something just to pay for the database. For now it looks something like this:   (I realize it looks very bad for now, obviously I haven't done any UI design yet) Is any of this a good/bad idea?
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May 22, 2018 21:45
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Furism posted:I recently came back to building scale models and painting figurines after a 20+ years break. I'm re-learning a ton of stuff and it's so much better now with this thing called Internet. I found out that I personally like Vallejo paints a lot but most online tutorials use Citadel paints. I looked at a lot of online "conversion charts" (or "correspondences" as Vallejo correctly puts it) and most of them are not up-to-date, look ancient and are just not very modern. So I'm building my own website for this now. I want to put all brands catalogues into an online database and link them together. I have about 1300 different paints so far. It's all going to be accessible through a website and probably a mobile app someday (I built a whole REST API for that). And it'll be under a Creative Commons license. The website itself will be open source. Are you just doing delta-e calculations on website swatches by hex code? Or how are you determining equivalencies?
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May 22, 2018 21:51
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Good idea
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May 22, 2018 21:53
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Unless you're testing the paints yourself, I'm not sure how valuable it would be; the online swatches can't readily be converted between brands, so without confirmation in person, it can be pretty hard to get accurate results. Also, I feel like it's only Citadel paints that really need conversion from, since their paint line is a lot less stable than other brands. Other than that, I think it's more valuable to have a list of paints that are actually worth buying, regardless of what they're equivalent to in other lines.
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May 22, 2018 22:20
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bonds0097 posted:Are you just doing delta-e calculations on website swatches by hex code? Or how are you determining equivalencies? For the equivalencies I'm using Vallejo equivalencies charts. They are part of their catalogues (ie: Model Color: http://cdn.acrylicosvallejo.com/2f3091938c6b7afb2c1b953bf6a1d8b2/CC070-Rev14.pdf). So I input all the paints into the database. Then I create "pigments" (by which I really mean "colors"). To get those is the tricky part. The wikipedia article about Citadel paints lists some, but that's not a lot. So for those I don't have I had to extract the color from the Vallejo catalogue and that's not very precise. Once the website is live if people want to help and improve upon the HEX codes I'll be more than happy. Edit: Although, I suspect that FS and RAL, being official and whatnot, might have very good HEX approximations somewhere. And since I have the equivalencies for those, that might help. In any case this is all going to be rough equivalencies, not perfect matches. The goal isn't to be perfect, but good enough. Really good painters already know what pigment of what brand they want so it's not for those people but for plebs like me. It might also be of interest to scale model builders to know what FS equivalencies are in different brands. Furism fucked around with this message at 22:24 on May 22, 2018 |
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May 22, 2018 22:20
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You’re doing a lot of work to basically redo something someone has done very well https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1xl-x9eW3bLw5eqDeNUG2JUwn2EZwn34TDKfNIg5uul4/htmlview#gid=5
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May 22, 2018 22:26
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Ah, nice. I wish I had known about this earlier (and trust me, I've looked around..) Although a Google Spreadsheet isn't as practical as what I have in mind, but it's done very well indeed. It's missing the equivalencies to Federal Standard and RAL (European equivalent) and all of the brands made for scale models (Tamiya, Revell, etc) as well. Furism fucked around with this message at 22:36 on May 22, 2018 |
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May 22, 2018 22:33
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Furism posted:Ah, nice. I wish I had known about this earlier (and trust me, I've looked around..) Also, it's literally just doing delta-e calculations of hex codes from website swatches which means the equivalencies rarely match reality in a meaningful way. I do think anything other than actual physical swatches has limited use.
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May 22, 2018 22:56
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bonds0097 posted:Also, it's literally just doing delta-e calculations of hex codes from website swatches which means the equivalencies rarely match reality in a meaningful way. The goal isn't really to address the "okay, I want some exact color, which one is it in Army Painter's catalogue?" question. I 100% agree with you that you need to see a pigment in person to make a decision. Even the screen color calibration being off might gently caress this up even if I had 100% accurate HEX codes. The problem I'm trying to address is just the matching of similar pigment from different brands. This idea came to me when I was watching tutorials wishing the author would give Vallejo references instead of Citadel. And another time when I was in a scale model shop, they sold only Tamiya paints, I was buying a kit with Revell paint references, and he couldn't find a good match. I want these people to be able to go to my website, input the Revell reference number, and see the list of all the similar paints from other brands. These are are the issues I'm trying to solve (if only for myself), not helping people pick colors from a computer screen 
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May 22, 2018 23:17
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Always be  !Also the PaintRack App. Also, it's all a waste of time unless you personally buy every paint ever and take pictures of them under exactly the same conditions.
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May 22, 2018 23:33
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How much does the base colour show through crackle paint?
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May 22, 2018 23:34
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Luminaflare posted:How much does the base colour show through crackle paint? It shows through pretty clearly, especially if you have large cracks from putting it on thickly. You'll want to put down a dark brown or something over the base first.
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May 23, 2018 00:09
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Hey everyone, I have a shitload of necromunda terrain (mostly MDF) that im going to try and paint this summer, and im looking for some advice. Now my general plan is to spray them with black and various dark greys and metallics. But ill probably end up wanting to apply a black wash like Nuln Oil. So does anyone have any products or recipes they use to make large batches of something similar? Because theres no way im going to go buy 20+ pots of that stuff from GW. Wouldnt mind making a substitute for Agrax too. Worth noting that i'm in America because I figure different places have other brands or use different formulas.
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May 23, 2018 05:51
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Cheap black craft paint from Michaels, water and a drop of dish soap to help it flow. There's no real recipe - just adjust paint/water until it works for you. I mix in some dark browns and greens depending on what I'm doing. Brown washes work the same but use brown with a little black, grey, red or green. One tip though - either take notes on the ratios you end up with or make a lot and wash everything you're going to wash at the same time. Trying to re-create a wash months later when you need a few more giant rocks is really frustrating.
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May 23, 2018 06:18
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Finished up some 40k/AoS objective markers from Bones models and assorted greenery.
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May 23, 2018 10:48
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this dude has mad an amazing terrain innovation https://twitter.com/iswaaFSS/status/999352564167536640  
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May 24, 2018 01:01
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What's the best place to get green stuff?
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May 24, 2018 02:14
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Amazon is a decent choice: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MQ7EHHC/
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May 24, 2018 04:36
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