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Shop vac it, maybe with some netting over the nozzle to keep the rocks out.
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May 22, 2018 20:09
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sweet_jones posted:Dirt mostly. In sections, the dirt is at level with the rocks, despite the overall depth of the driveway being ~ 4". That's the reason I suspect they moved rocks from elsewhere on the property. Use a leaf blower first and blow away all of the loose stuff. Do you have a tractor or something bigger to dig up the stuff a bit? You'll basically want to plow the road, then wash away the sand and dirt. It may be a pain to get the rocks to stay put while you wash the other poo poo away. Maybe make a little temporary fence out of some stakes and hardware cloth after you plow but before you wash?
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May 22, 2018 20:17
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kid sinister posted:If that's all the locksmith damaged, then yes. That is indeed a mortise lockset, which in turn takes a mortise lock cylinder. They're used in retail doors a lot. Those are kind of weird. You take the cover plate off the latch side, then unscrew a little set screw inside. That set screw holds the cylinder in place. Once the set screw is loose, the entire cylinder can unscrew out of the door face. Once you got that out, then comes the hard part of finding a duplicate. Yeah, this feels loving ridiculous that it's so hard to find a loving cylinder for the drat thing. I mean, obviously drilling out the lock should be last ditch but it shouldn't be so hard to find a replacement.
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May 22, 2018 22:44
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:Yeah, this feels loving ridiculous that it's so hard to find a loving cylinder for the drat thing. I mean, obviously drilling out the lock should be last ditch but it shouldn't be so hard to find a replacement. I got a question. Why was the key cylinder in your deadbolt picture brass? You said it was drilled out.
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May 22, 2018 23:14
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Do we have a lawn care megathread?
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May 22, 2018 23:59
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kid sinister posted:I got a question. Why was the key cylinder in your deadbolt picture brass? You said it was drilled out. Great question! I was confused about that too until my girlfriend told me the locksmith put it in there so it wouldn't have an obvious gaping hole in her door. I disassembled the lock last night and took some pictures. I'm honestly not sure why this is such a pain in the dick. This appears to be a cylinder that would work if it weren't too short? This is the currently installed, non functional cylinder. I'm not sure if it is internally broken or not linking up with something because we have the keys but they don't actually lock? that rod looks broken and probably too short?  This is the lock. I would assume the cylinder turns the black bit which appears to be a rubber of some kind that the deadbolt knob also turns?  This is the front of the door where they key would go in.  These appear to be the same thing? http://www.allaboutdoors.com/Products/Pella-Keyed-Cylinders
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May 23, 2018 19:34
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No one cares but I replaced the fan motor and control board in my AC for less than $140 in parts. I highly recommend carefully considering doing this kind of repair yourself, if your time is worth it, you have the access to your system, and it's not under warranty. It wasn't EASY but it was considerably less daunting than I thought once I committed. The hard part was removing the squirrel cage, and safely getting it out of the attic. Dishwasher got a new drain pump and is still draining slowly and not draining completely between cycles. What the gently caress do I do?
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May 23, 2018 19:38
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:Great question! I was confused about that too until my girlfriend told me the locksmith put it in there so it wouldn't have an obvious gaping hole in her door. Man, I came so close to posting last night and saying that if I were you I'd replace the whole thing, because finding specific parts would be a pain in the rear end. This unhelpful post was brought to you by the letter P and the number 7.
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May 23, 2018 20:30
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You can get repair parts from Pella, but you *have* to have the exact model number (and maybe serial too?) before they will help you. I had a broken bit on a Pella glass storm door, and ended up jury rigging it cause I couldn't find whatever number they said they needed.
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May 23, 2018 21:20
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tactlessbastard posted:Man, I came so close to posting last night and saying that if I were you I'd replace the whole thing, because finding specific parts would be a pain in the rear end. I am fast coming to the same conclusion. I don't know how other multipoint lock systems are as far as parts replacement but Pella is godawful. angryrobots posted:You can get repair parts from Pella, but you *have* to have the exact model number (and maybe serial too?) before they will help you. I had a broken bit on a Pella glass storm door, and ended up jury rigging it cause I couldn't find whatever number they said they needed. Yes, we were running into this specific problem until my girlfriend was able to help them find the info on her door and now we're looking at bookings 2 weeks out.
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May 23, 2018 21:40
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:I'm honestly not sure why this is such a pain in the dick. Because you haven't called back the original locksmith to ask what it would cost to get it fixed up? (Parts, Labor) Or gone and just bought a complete kit? I only mean that with 50% snark, because the moment you talked to someone who sells this stuff you would know what it would take to replace it.
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May 23, 2018 22:19
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H110Hawk posted:Because you haven't called back the original locksmith to ask what it would cost to get it fixed up? (Parts, Labor) Or gone and just bought a complete kit? I only mean that with 50% snark, because the moment you talked to someone who sells this stuff you would know what it would take to replace it. My dude, we have been in touch with the original locksmith this entire time. He has been stringing us along with bullshit like he's waiting to hear back on parts or just not bothering to get back to us at all. Everyone I've spoken with have not been able to help and told us we probably need to deal with Pella. I can't find anyone besides Pella who sells this stuff.
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May 23, 2018 22:29
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:My dude, we have been in touch with the original locksmith this entire time. He has been stringing us along with bullshit like he's waiting to hear back on parts or just not bothering to get back to us at all. Everyone I've spoken with have not been able to help and told us we probably need to deal with Pella. I can't find anyone besides Pella who sells this stuff. That sucks.  Sorry, it sounded like you were just banging your head on the door.  Once your door locks again it sounds like it's yelp review time there if they're dodging your call. Emergency locksmiths who can't get you back to a locked door aren't the norm, or shouldn't be. Protip: AAA can help you out with a referral service there if this happens again.The lockset itself should be pretty darn standard? Try another locksmith or a door/window/etc specialty shop, send them a picture and measure the 4 distances you have. "Hey I'm looking for a new mortise lockset for my Pella brand door. Can I shoot you a picture?" Measurements, all center-to-center: Top Lock to Handle, Top Lock to Latch, Handle to Latch, lock/handle vertical axis to edge of the door. I bet you find out this is a totally standard setup. Otherwise, go to home depot / lowes / whatever and buy some random mortise sets and see if they fit.
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May 23, 2018 22:34
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Wasabi the J posted:Dishwasher got a new drain pump and is still draining slowly and not draining completely between cycles. What the gently caress do I do? clogged hose or check valve? Qwijib0 fucked around with this message at 17:24 on May 24, 2018 |
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May 24, 2018 17:20
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We finally were able to figure out the door poo poo and Pella is sending someone out tomorrow to fix it which is amazing because they were saying their techs were booked 2 weeks out. Thanks to everyone that offered help and suggestions. Never buy Pella.
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May 24, 2018 18:50
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Teabag Dome Scandal posted:Great question! I was confused about that too until my girlfriend told me the locksmith put it in there so it wouldn't have an obvious gaping hole in her door. That's a Schlage key in the key head in that all about doors place. That tab off the end of the cylinder is an adjustable part, kind of. Do you see that line near the end of the tab in your link? That's a snap line. Get 2 pliers and start bending until the excess snaps off.
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May 24, 2018 19:52
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Cross posting from the HVAC thread: Does anyone here know a lot about cleaning home AC systems? My allergies have gotten worse after sleeping in one of the bedrooms and looking closely at the vent, I noticed a black and spotty buildup. Looked it up and I think it's mold. My parents' house is quite old (built in the 60s I think but bought recently) so I think think the HVAC system never had a professional cleaning in at least the last decade or so and this is in Florida where high outdoor humidity is practically a given.  This is inside of the offending vent with the grill plate removed. I don't know what that black stuff is.  This isn't the same vent, but it's pretty representative of the level of buildup that's on the surface of the grill. (Edit: I can try and get a better resolution pic if necessary) So how bad is it really and what should be done outside of getting professional help? As a side note, there's other issues with the AC system. One of the units (there's two, one for each floor). Something in the AC unit is leaking water into the garage. It's possibly the condenser leaking water and not draining out properly based on the last two visits from the AC people (this is basically an annual issue). We have a shop vac now and we're trying to suck out any potential clog or build up with it, but it's a no go, either because the shop vac is too high for the outlet pipe outside or because of some other issue. Apparently, sucking out the clog with their own vacuum is the AC people did on their previous visits, but IDK.
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May 24, 2018 20:49
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Xelkelvos posted:Cross posting from the HVAC thread: If your ductwork looks like that, I'd imagine the coil in your furnace is nearly clogged. Do you have a filter on your ductwork that you actually change?
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May 25, 2018 01:09
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Is there a pro-strategy for grouting rough-textured backsplash? My wife got some tile for $.90 a sheet and decided to fulfill our basic, bougie, West End destiny and backsplash our kitchen.  Tomorrow is grouting day. This stuff is a mix of polished stone of a uniform depth and rough textured stone with a varying depth up to +/- a quarter inch. It's been sealed 2X in preparation for traditional grouting, but that rough stone makes scraping and sponging a pain. Is there some secret method for grouting this stuff that isn't as hard? Since its tightly packed there are only a handful areas that really need a void to be filled between. Are you suppose to spot fill, or go full-grout methodology? We are just going to grout the traditional way and curse a lot, but if there is a better way I am all ears.
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May 25, 2018 01:25
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Xelkelvos posted:Cross posting from the HVAC thread: I had issues with growth clogging my condenser drain pipe in AZ. During monsoon season that pipe would get choked and trip a water sensor that would disable the unit to prevent water damage from an overflowing drain pan/pipe. Pouring a mix of bleach and vinegar kills whats in there pretty good. Pour some down the pipe, let stand, repeat until you start seeing the ecologically irresponsible mixture drain outside.
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May 25, 2018 01:29
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Turnquiet posted:Is there a pro-strategy for grouting rough-textured backsplash? My wife got some tile for $.90 a sheet and decided to fulfill our basic, bougie, West End destiny and backsplash our kitchen.
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May 25, 2018 01:32
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i like nice words
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devicenull posted:If your ductwork looks like that, I'd imagine the coil in your furnace is nearly clogged. Do you have a filter on your ductwork that you actually change? There's the standard intake air filters. There's no proper furnace since this house is in Florida. Instead it's just the Heat Exchanger reversing and maybe some coils iirc. As far as other filters go, I don't recall. I'll have to ask. Turnquiet posted:I had issues with growth clogging my condenser drain pipe in AZ. During monsoon season that pipe would get choked and trip a water sensor that would disable the unit to prevent water damage from an overflowing drain pan/pipe. Pouring a mix of bleach and vinegar kills whats in there pretty good. Pour some down the pipe, let stand, repeat until you start seeing the ecologically irresponsible mixture drain outside. I think one issue we have is that we can't really access the interior of condenser drain pipe as far as I can tell other than via the exit. I believe my dad's asked HVAC people in previous occasions to install an access to do what you basically said, but they never got back to him. There is an elbow joint that connects to the unit before is starts going down into the section that's underground, but I think that Elbow is mostly sealed shut besides wherever it's leaking from. I'll see if it's possible to open it up closer to the unit to try and flush/drain things out.
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May 25, 2018 02:06
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I poured a short concrete walkway in my back yard yesterday. The instructions called for 2.5 quarts of water per 60-pound bag of concrete mix, "add water as needed". Apparently what that actually means is you need a lot more than 2.5 quarts per bag, because I couldn't pull a decent slurry to the top (and/or push the aggregate down) during finishing. That left me with this: (click for fullsize) That's a lot of aggregate at the surface level. I've swept off all the loose pebbles, but I've no doubt more will work free and leave me with a pretty pockmarked surface. What, if anything, can/should I do about this? I'm not too worried about overall aesthetics, I just don't want the walkway to fall apart or be impossible to keep clean.
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May 25, 2018 16:10
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Turnquiet posted:Pouring a mix of bleach and vinegar kills whats in there pretty good. That'll kill you good too. Don't mix acids and bleach.
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May 25, 2018 20:14
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Tomorrow we move into a house that was built in 1929. Today I removed the ceiling fan in our bedroom and found a loose/lovely electrical box with vermiculite leaking out. I hosed with it probably too long and maybe ended up with a cup of vermiculite on the floor. I vacuumed it up, nutted the wires, and duct taped over the hole in the ceiling. I want to get a new box put in the ceiling so I can mount a new fan. Probably one in another bedroom as well. What’s the correct plan of action for this and how hosed am I health and/or money wise?
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May 26, 2018 00:18
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Sobriquet posted:Tomorrow we move into a house that was built in 1929. Today I removed the ceiling fan in our bedroom and found a loose/lovely electrical box with vermiculite leaking out. I hosed with it probably too long and maybe ended up with a cup of vermiculite on the floor. I vacuumed it up, nutted the wires, and duct taped over the hole in the ceiling. Stop loving with things that can disturb it, get it tested to see if it's asbestos. Don't worry too much about what's already fallen into the house.
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May 26, 2018 01:12
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Mom's asking me and my brother to fix her porch: The front edge board is a bit rotten (but still mechanically sound), and there's some weirdness going on with what's holding it up, as you can see here:  Mom wants it fixed before planting new shrubs (the old ones died, apparentlythere's a blight going around on whatever they were, my brother removed the tree corpses last week with a chainsaw on a stick and a Hi-Lift jack.)Is this something the average person with a degree in half-assery from Jerry Rigg University can do? We have jacks that can take the weight to prop up that center post while we swap out the board under it, and I have a delightful Vaughn 28-oz framing hammer (oldschool, with a hatchet on the back instead of claws) that I'd love to have an excuse to use. Sorry for potato photos, but it was 8pm and it's not worth dragging out the big Nikon and tripod.
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May 26, 2018 02:39
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Bad Angus! Bad!
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Yes, definitely. Should be fun and rewarding to, I'd say go for it. Be sure to go around and find all the rotten wood in the deck, before you start, so you buy lumber to get it all replaced while you are at it
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May 26, 2018 09:25
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Be prepared to find that that front porch deck framing is not being held up by much beyond the airy aether of dreams and and inherent memory in the lumber of the solid structure that once was. I have been constantly amazed during my career, particularly with older, pre-code structures, how so much can be supported by so little.
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May 26, 2018 13:46
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So I've lived in my house almost 6 years and haven't done anything with my deck in that time. I have a lot of grime and possibly mildew, but the wood is sound and it looks like the underlying stain is in good shape. I have a pressure washer, but I'm not quite sure what process to employ, a lot of guides speak to pressure washing, sanding and staining, but I don't know if mine is in that rough of shape? If the stain's in good shape, do I just clean and reapply something over the top of it?
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May 26, 2018 20:06
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:
I've had pretty good results with this for patching and topping concrete: https://www.homedepot.com/p/SikaLatex-1-Gal-Concrete-Bonding-Adhesive-187782/202521398 https://www.homedepot.com/p/SAKRETE-40-lb-Top-N-Bond-Concrete-Patcher-in-Gray-60201130/100350500 The only issue I've run into is small cracks developing when the concrete that's being topped isn't solid and stable or wasn't prepped properly. It can be hard to get a nice flat uniform finish because it's more like applying drywall compound than pouring concrete where you let it set up and then float/trowel, but if you give it a broom or brush finish it should look fine.
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May 26, 2018 21:25
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I have furniture made of raw wood that was then painted with glitter paint. What are my odds of ever successfully getting the glitter off? Goof Off Graffiti Remover is doing a good job of stripping the spraypaint (also of eating through my gloves) but the glitter is not being removed so easily.
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May 26, 2018 22:09
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Sobriquet posted:Tomorrow we move into a house that was built in 1929. Today I removed the ceiling fan in our bedroom and found a loose/lovely electrical box with vermiculite leaking out. I hosed with it probably too long and maybe ended up with a cup of vermiculite on the floor. I vacuumed it up, nutted the wires, and duct taped over the hole in the ceiling. They make kits for old work ceiling fan boxes. Basically, they come with a rod that goes up the existing hole and expands to bite into the joists on either side of the hole, then the box mounts to that. Anne Whateley posted:I have furniture made of raw wood that was then painted with glitter paint. What are my odds of ever successfully getting the glitter off? Goof Off Graffiti Remover is doing a good job of stripping the spraypaint (also of eating through my gloves) but the glitter is not being removed so easily. What about paint stripper? You could also try sanding it off.
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May 26, 2018 23:03
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Anne Whateley posted:I have furniture made of raw wood that was then painted with glitter paint. What are my odds of ever successfully getting the glitter off? Goof Off Graffiti Remover is doing a good job of stripping the spraypaint (also of eating through my gloves) but the glitter is not being removed so easily. Some types of glitter will melt when exposed to nail polish remover. Some won't though. Grim determination and sanding usually works.
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May 26, 2018 23:25
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Anne Whateley posted:I have furniture made of raw wood that was then painted with glitter paint. What are my odds of ever successfully getting the glitter off? Goof Off Graffiti Remover is doing a good job of stripping the spraypaint (also of eating through my gloves) but the glitter is not being removed so easily.
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May 26, 2018 23:32
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I'm scared of sanding too roughly and gouging it but I see the writing on the wall  kid sinister posted:What about paint stripper? You could also try sanding it off. gently caress glitter
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May 27, 2018 02:56
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Facebook Aunt posted:Some types of glitter will melt when exposed to nail polish remover. Some won't though.
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May 27, 2018 03:00
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socketwrencher posted:I've had pretty good results with this for patching and topping concrete: Thanks, though something like apply drywall compound doesn't sound very encouraging. At least it's hard to be worse than what I currently have! Do you put the bonding adhesive down and then the concrete patcher on top of that? Or did you mix the adhesive in with the wet patcher? It doesn't look like the patcher needs anything extra normally.
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May 27, 2018 03:28
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Thanks, though something like apply drywall compound doesn't sound very encouraging. At least it's hard to be worse than what I currently have! Hah, well you may have better troweling skills than I have, I just meant that because you won't have forms that basically do the leveling for you, this is kind of like frosting a large flat cake by eyeballing it, and we all know what that's like (hmm actually I've never frosted a cake in my life LOL). I'm making it sound harder than it is, maybe because I've mostly done this on concrete steps where if you're not pretty close to dead smooth and flat it can look bad. I don't think you'll have any trouble, and any minor imperfections can be smoothed out with a broom finish anyway. You might mix up a small batch (like a cup) of the concrete patch and do a test run on some scrap plywood to get a feel for how it applies. I do that sometimes if I haven't used a product before to avoid having to figure it out on the fly with the cure time clock ticking. Because you'll be applying it fairly thin, maybe 1/2" or less, it's going to dry pretty fast, and I think you'll want to do it all in one go so you've got a monolithic top coat (with a control joint in the same place as the existing one). TooMuchAbstraction posted:Do you put the bonding adhesive down and then the concrete patcher on top of that? Or did you mix the adhesive in with the wet patcher? It doesn't look like the patcher needs anything extra normally. Yes to the first and it's up to you on the second, as the bonding agent in the link is also a fortifier. Most of the other bonding agents that I've seen aren't dual purpose. So you just hose down the concrete to clean off the dirt, let it dry a bit so there's no standing water, apply the bonding agent then go directly to town with the concrete patch.
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May 27, 2018 05:26
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Can anyone identify this connector? It's from my dishwasher's water inlet valve and the wires are broken off too close to solder new ones on. https://photos.app.goo.gl/dmcyfZmddTjQ5j6L2 The valve side looks like this 
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May 27, 2018 21:21
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