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I've got this dumb clown mini that I bought for DnD a couple years ago. It is, I assume, pewter or lead, and very shiny. It feels very smooth. Will primer still stick to it?
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Jun 7, 2018 01:16
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Admiral Joeslop posted:I've got this dumb clown mini that I bought for DnD a couple years ago. It is, I assume, pewter or lead, and very shiny. It feels very smooth. Will primer still stick to it? It should. I'd wash it first to make sure there's nothing clinging to it and then go for it.
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Jun 7, 2018 01:27
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Admiral Joeslop posted:I've got this dumb clown mini that I bought for DnD a couple years ago. It is, I assume, pewter or lead, and very shiny. It feels very smooth. Will primer still stick to it? That models rad as hell
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Jun 7, 2018 02:51
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Neurolimal posted:Like most topics in painting it's up to personal preference. There's nothing wrong with your plan, just thought I'd point that out. That sounds like preshading. Zenithal is priming black, then priming gray at a higher angle, then priming white from the zenith angle. Simulates the effect of light shining on an object.
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Jun 7, 2018 02:59
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goodness posted:That sounds like preshading. Zenithal is priming black, then priming gray at a higher angle, then priming white from the zenith angle. Simulates the effect of light shining on an object. Yeah, I end up conflating the two casually because they're the same principle; applying harsh shadows and lighting early on, then using thin paints to soften the transition and tint it.
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Jun 7, 2018 03:18
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Admiral Joeslop posted:I've got this dumb clown mini that I bought for DnD a couple years ago. It is, I assume, pewter or lead, and very shiny. It feels very smooth. Will primer still stick to it? I've painted a figure like that before, primer worked fine on it. In my case it was an ancient die cast dinosaur I got from a science museum like decades ago. A quick rinse and scrub to get off any dirt and it should be fine for priming.
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Jun 7, 2018 14:08
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Lacquer-based primers and paints are designed for automotive use (at least originally); it wont have any issue biting into metal, that's kind of its "thing" Just yeah, make sure it's clean so the paint bonds to the metal, and not bits of loose dirt.
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Jun 7, 2018 14:24
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x-postin' this guy:   
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Jun 7, 2018 17:05
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Just got an airbrush, anyone have a favorite source for learning how to use and care for it? I have already bookmarked the content in the OP, just wondering if there's anything else I should check out as far as learning technique.
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Jun 7, 2018 19:59
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Mikey Purp posted:Just got an airbrush, anyone have a favorite source for learning how to use and care for it? I have already bookmarked the content in the OP, just wondering if there's anything else I should check out as far as learning technique. Learn how to field strip it - remove the nozzle and needle. Work over a surface that the parts won't bounce off of when you invariably drop them. Get a little cleaning brush set (Amazon or Harbor Freight) and a nylon brush (toothbrush is fine) to remove paint from the nozzle and needle. Other than that, it's just a matter of playing with it to figure out the process. Get a piece of white paper, and, using black paint, check out how the brush sprays and practice drawing lines and shapes. https://tinyplasticspacemen.wordpress.com/airbrushing-101-getting-started/ https://miniarmyhugetimesink.wordpress.com/2014/05/15/so-you-want-to-airbush-a-beginners-guide-part-1/ http://critforbrains.com/2016/04/how-to-airbrush-miniatures-a-beginners-guide-part-1/
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Jun 7, 2018 20:07
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After 5 years of airbrushing, I feel like i finally succeeded in using the first airbrush I bought. The Badger Renegade Velocity has a .18mm nozzle, and I always loving struggled with it. After a month of struggling, I bought a Patriot 105 and use that like 95% of the time. Vallejo Flow Improver really is the secret sauce for me. Protip kids: Don't buy a .18mm airbrush for your first one. Get a .3-.5mm Patriot 105.
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Jun 7, 2018 20:20
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Anyone know what the color equivalent of Agrellan Earth is? There is a little terrain on my Gorechosen models, and I kind of want to match it up.
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Jun 7, 2018 20:22
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berzerkmonkey posted:Anyone know what the color equivalent of Agrellan Earth is? There is a little terrain on my Gorechosen models, and I kind of want to match it up. Rakarth Flesh I’d say.
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Jun 7, 2018 20:25
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I think it's darker than that. I'd try Steel Legion Drab or Zandri Dust
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Jun 7, 2018 20:51
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Is Agrellan Earth darker than Armageddon Dust? I now that Armageddon Dust is Zandri Dust exactly because I did a color test on it a few weeks ago.
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Jun 7, 2018 20:57
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mango sentinel posted:I think it's darker than that. I'd try Steel Legion Drab or Zandri Dust Yeah, I was thinking more SL Drab too. Unfortunately, I don't htink I own any. I might have to give it a light airbrush coat of something in the collection as an alternative.
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Jun 7, 2018 21:03
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berzerkmonkey posted:Anyone know what the color equivalent of Agrellan Earth is? There is a little terrain on my Gorechosen models, and I kind of want to match it up. Try Balor Brown.
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Jun 7, 2018 21:21
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berzerkmonkey posted:Yeah, I was thinking more SL Drab too. Unfortunately, I don't htink I own any. I might have to give it a light airbrush coat of something in the collection as an alternative. SL drab is absolutely not it, or if it is then the giant bottle of it they sell for doing terrain isn't a match for SL drab. It's closeish if you're not putting it right next to agrellan earth, but is glaringly obvious if they're next to eachother.
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Jun 7, 2018 21:25
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dexefiend posted:Vallejo Flow Improver really is the secret sauce for me. Every time I need anything thinned, this is how I do it. Works great. It's cheap and you get a huge asssss bottle of it.
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Jun 7, 2018 21:43
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GuardianOfAsgaard posted:x-postin' this guy: Where the hell did you find a Space Marine flyer that looks like it could conceivably fly?
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Jun 7, 2018 21:49
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Eifert Posting posted:Where the hell did you find a Space Marine flyer that looks like it could conceivably fly? Forge World 
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Jun 7, 2018 21:50
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Eifert Posting posted:Where the hell did you find a Space Marine flyer that looks like it could conceivably fly?
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Jun 7, 2018 21:50
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dexefiend posted:Vallejo Flow Improver really is the secret sauce for me. What quantity do you use? I literally just finished a session using Vallejo Primer and added 4 drops of Flow Improver like recommended (for something like 20 drops of primer) and the nozzle still got blocked after like 10 minutes. Before that I tried thinning with the Vallejo Airbrush Thinner (1:2 thinner:primer ratio) and it felt too thin (but didn't dry).
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Jun 7, 2018 23:09
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10 minutes is a really long time before dry tip. It's working. Acrylic paints are always going to dry on the tip. You just want a manageable amount of time between scrubs.
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Jun 7, 2018 23:52
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Just a heads up, I ordered some spare parts for my airbrush from spraygunner.com. Their prices are pretty much as good as Amazon, better for most of the parts, and they’ve got lots of shipping options. USPS First Class showed up cross country in about three days for $2.79 and it was packaged extremely well.
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Jun 8, 2018 01:51
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Shadin posted:Just a heads up, I ordered some spare parts for my airbrush from spraygunner.com. Their prices are pretty much as good as Amazon, better for most of the parts, and they’ve got lots of shipping options. USPS First Class showed up cross country in about three days for $2.79 and it was packaged extremely well. Nice, thanks. I’m bookmarking this. I always have a hell of a time finding parts for my SOTAR
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Jun 8, 2018 04:24
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Shadin posted:Just a heads up, I ordered some spare parts for my airbrush from spraygunner.com. Their prices are pretty much as good as Amazon, better for most of the parts, and they’ve got lots of shipping options. USPS First Class showed up cross country in about three days for $2.79 and it was packaged extremely well. Good to know. They're the only ones that stock GSI Creos/Mr Hobby parts.
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Jun 8, 2018 04:46
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dexefiend posted:10 minutes is a really long time before dry tip. It's working. Oh wow I didn't realize this. So the normal way it plays out should be "paint one figurine, scrub the tip, paint another one, etc." ? What's the best way to scrub it, just some old toothbrush soaked in water (maybe mixed with IPA?), rinse and repeat (literally) ?
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Jun 8, 2018 09:25
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I just keep a little nub of paper towel nearby with a few drops of thinner in it. Any time I see anything collecting on the tip, I just pinch the tip with the paper towel and that's it.
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Jun 8, 2018 09:41
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Finished my discount knockoff Custodes.   
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Jun 8, 2018 10:38
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They remind me of some movie or comic book with blue-skinned warriors. Maybe the frost giants from Thor.
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Jun 8, 2018 10:46
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Booley posted:SL drab is absolutely not it, or if it is then the giant bottle of it they sell for doing terrain isn't a match for SL drab. It's closeish if you're not putting it right next to agrellan earth, but is glaringly obvious if they're next to eachother. drat. Ok, looks like a bit of airbrushing it is, then. I actually like the way the Agrellan Earth came out, color-wise, and I'm a bit bummed that I won't be able to just keep it. drat GW for molding terrain features onto their models!
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Jun 8, 2018 15:12
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So, I'm completely new to 40k. I started out with some Space Wolves last year and got ridiculously frustrated before finishing even a single model - the Space Wolves have adornments, furs, gold bits, hangy bits, etc. all over them. Additionally, I found it difficult to know what weapons to attach since I wanted to stay somewhat "good" in terms of a rough meta of how the game was played. So I ended up only finishing a few models - mostly some TWC dudes. After looking at armies and talking to my brother, I decided on starting a Necron army. I am a new painter. I am a bad painter. Necrons are giving me an opportunity to work and refine on some techniques, hard to reach bits, etc. and I'm really happy with how my first finished dude turned out. I have 11 more warriors that are right on the cusp of being finished. This guy isn't quite done. I need to get some Eshin on his gunny bits, some Agrax on his right arm (our left in the photo) to get that rusty-weathered look and clean up the coil a little bit - although I'm quite pleased with how it looks from further away. I'd love any C and C for a new painter. Keep in mind; I am NOT GOOD at this. I had a few suggestions to do glazes and stuff - while that sounds awesome to try at some point, it all seems a bit beyond me RIGHT NOW. I just want a quick win and then might do another wave of 12 Warriors "even better." Still; even if it's something I might not do, I'd love any advice at all. 
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Jun 8, 2018 17:09
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Anasurimbur posted:So, I'm completely new to 40k. I started out with some Space Wolves last year and got ridiculously frustrated before finishing even a single model - the Space Wolves have adornments, furs, gold bits, hangy bits, etc. all over them. Additionally, I found it difficult to know what weapons to attach since I wanted to stay somewhat "good" in terms of a rough meta of how the game was played. So I ended up only finishing a few models - mostly some TWC dudes. Necron is a good choice. This guy looks good and 12-24 of these guys all painted up will look awesome. Just get some technical paint on the base and you're good to go.
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Jun 8, 2018 17:13
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Anasurimbur posted:So, I'm completely new to 40k. I started out with some Space Wolves last year and got ridiculously frustrated before finishing even a single model - the Space Wolves have adornments, furs, gold bits, hangy bits, etc. all over them. Additionally, I found it difficult to know what weapons to attach since I wanted to stay somewhat "good" in terms of a rough meta of how the game was played. So I ended up only finishing a few models - mostly some TWC dudes. He looks solid. As you clearly aren't feeling hugely confident I'd do those last little touches you mentioned and focus on completing the squad. Having that under your belt will left you appreciate that you have made some progress and can now pick up the next thing on your list and be a step closer to your first finished force. You can always go back and add a bit more detail later. When you come to doing a character push yourself a little further than on the rank and file and you will keep improving.
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Jun 8, 2018 17:29
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Anasurimbur posted:necron dude Honestly, not bad for a self-proclaimed "bad painter". Necrons are pretty forgiving, considering the majority of the rank and file is "base silver, wash, edge highlight silver maybe, also do weapons in not-silver", so you can start trying out different techniques as you get more confident in your skills. Best part is you can see where you need work, and that's a skill some people never learn, as evidenced by the Unspiration thread. Just keep at it, and you'll be able to see yourself improve.
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Jun 8, 2018 17:29
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Anasurimbur posted:So, I'm completely new to 40k. I started out with some Space Wolves last year and got ridiculously frustrated before finishing even a single model - the Space Wolves have adornments, furs, gold bits, hangy bits, etc. all over them. Additionally, I found it difficult to know what weapons to attach since I wanted to stay somewhat "good" in terms of a rough meta of how the game was played. So I ended up only finishing a few models - mostly some TWC dudes. Echoing everyone else who's said that Necron looks pretty drat good for a first-time painter. I'd say just keep on doing what you're doing for now; you'll find that as you get better with time, you'll start wanting to experiment more and try new techniques, etc. But for now, just keep it simple and neat.  Also keep in mind that when you're looking at a mini close up (while painting it or examining it or whatever), you'll always find flaws, spot things you missed, mistakes, etc. But when you're looking at it from three or four feet away, which is roughly the distance from you to a mini on the tabletop? It'll look perfectly fine. It's something that even us experienced painters have to remind ourselves about occasionally.
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Jun 8, 2018 17:51
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Sydney Bottocks posted:Also keep in mind that when you're looking at a mini close up (while painting it or examining it or whatever), you'll always find flaws, spot things you missed, mistakes, etc. But when you're looking at it from three or four feet away, which is roughly the distance from you to a mini on the tabletop? It'll look perfectly fine. It's something that even us experienced painters have to remind ourselves about occasionally. Doubling down on this, cameras are absolutely fantastic for showing off any and all flaws, even ones you think you fixed. Don't be discouraged if you take a photo of a mini you think looks absolutely slammin and it comes out looking like garb. As long as you can hold your arm straight out with the mini in your hand and have it look good, that's really all that matters. Showing off for the thread is a sweet bonus, but exactly that, just a bonus. That doesn't mean you shouldn't post to the thread though. 
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Jun 8, 2018 18:16
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First; thank you everyone for the feedback. The positivity helps a ton. I feel really good about this set of Warriors and that propels me to work on these guys more - which is what I wanted. A win / boost to my confidence in the hobby as silly as that sounds. Sydney Bottocks posted:Echoing everyone else who's said that Necron looks pretty drat good for a first-time painter. I'd say just keep on doing what you're doing for now; you'll find that as you get better with time, you'll start wanting to experiment more and try new techniques, etc. But for now, just keep it simple and neat. I think they look fantastic from far away - even the coil on the gun looks solid from further away. I'm excited to see how the rest turn out and I have the grouping of them together. I really love the weathering look with Agrax. It's amazing how a dab here and there really brings out a rusted-ish look in the metal.
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Jun 8, 2018 18:35
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Anasurimbur posted:I think they look fantastic from far away - even the coil on the gun looks solid from further away. I'm excited to see how the rest turn out and I have the grouping of them together. That's another thing to remember - when they're all grouped up, they'll look great together, so if there's an occasional one that doesn't turn out quite how you expected, it's perfectly fine. When they're in a squad or other unit, as long as they look relatively similar to the others then you're golden. A lot of us tend to forget that, and try to paint every single figure like they're the centerpiece of an army, and that way lies madness.
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Jun 8, 2018 18:48
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