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A few years ago I fixed this shifter in place with some coat hanger wire, and it wore through sometime in the last few months. I re-did the fix but also covered the wire with some weatherstripping I already had a roll of.  Tried loving with the rear drum brakes again, but the parking brake still doesnt want to hold the car on an incline and doesn't have much stopping force if I pull it while driving. 
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Jun 4, 2018 21:26
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Night Danger Moose posted:Not what I did to my ride, but what my ride did for me - let me pick this up from the guest services tent at the Ford Nationals at Carlisle. Y'all don't even know how happy this made me. Plus have some showfield pics because I can't stop looking at my car and she won't be this clean again for a long time. You should get a Pokeball shift knob!
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Jun 5, 2018 01:55
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brand engager posted:Tried loving with the rear drum brakes again, but the parking brake still doesnt want to hold the car on an incline and doesn't have much stopping force if I pull it while driving. If it's a drum in hat kind, you shouldn't be pulling it while driving. They aren't designed to take the force and heat of stopping a car. Using them for e-brake turns is the best way to completely fuckerize them... I don't know what kind of car you have, but the general procedure for adjusting the drum in hat king is to fully loosen the adjustment at the parking brake handle or intermediate cable, then adjust the shoes until they just grab, THEN adjust the handle last.
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Jun 5, 2018 11:14
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Yeah, I agree, tiny drum in a hat style parking brakes inside rear disc brakes aren't really made for abuse like handbrake turns. They're no where near as strong as the old whole drum brake rear setups. The drum in the hat style parking brakes are used because they are cheap, and you betta believe it they are made cheap, like down to the 2c part. They are not engineered for hand brake turns E: sorry, after re-reading not even sure what car you have, you may have a full rear drum brake car? ford zx2? some ford probe type car is as close to what I can describe, and it does have full drum brake rears. Should be getting some grip out of it unless the shoes are contaminated or pivot points seized, or janky old cable is stretching. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 12:28 on Jun 5, 2018 |
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Jun 5, 2018 12:18
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Changed oil on the WJ. My god does that thing leak oil. Then tackled the mighty Briggs on the mower. Ran like poo poo. Smelled like gas, ran rough as hell and finally died. I replaced the plug last year so figured 15+ years combined with ethanol the carb was toast. Why rebuild when one can get a new one for $10 delivered to the door? El-cheapo carb works great except for the priming. Drove me nuts trying to figure out. The final fix was a piece of masking tape. Mind blown, but makes sense.
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Jun 5, 2018 14:55
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C-Bangin' it 
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Behold my masterful seat repair!
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Jun 5, 2018 15:29
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Elephanthead posted:Behold my masterful seat repair! Can you paint a circle or arrows or something? I don't see it 
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Jun 5, 2018 15:32
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Just wait until you'll see your knee replacement.
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Jun 5, 2018 16:51
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Fo3 posted:Yeah, I agree, tiny drum in a hat style parking brakes inside rear disc brakes aren't really made for abuse like handbrake turns. They're no where near as strong as the old whole drum brake rear setups. Yeah it's the zx2. I've replaced most of the brake stuff while I've had the car including the cables.
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Jun 5, 2018 17:39
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Had the fuel injectors cleaned and put them back in after getting a cylinder misfire when I ran the tank to almost empty on project cheap motovan. I expect something got sucked up and clogged one, as everything works great now. Negative: pinched one of the stupid little o-rings between the injector and rail and sprayed fuel everywhere. Positive: did not set anything on fire. Idles really nicely now, whole engine sounds smoother. Whole van has a lovely "eau de petrol" note. Negative: "cheap" Positive: still cheaper than getting a nice one, "patina" and constant working on it makes it seem even more like there's nothing worthwhile inside to steal. Still need to replace the fuel pump because I want to put in a new fuel filter and for $50 why not, plus I need to drop the tank anyway to drill through the floor and install the bike anchors. At that point, I'm hopeful it will run without trouble for the next 3-4 years (until everything just quietly rusts away and I can live the dream of breaking down on the highway, opening up the back door and riding away).
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Jun 5, 2018 18:11
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It's usually a good day wrenching when you don't set anything on fire.
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Jun 5, 2018 18:57
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Powershift posted:It's usually a good day wrenching when you don't set anything on fire. Particularly when you've liberally sprayed fuel all over the entire engine.
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Jun 5, 2018 19:23
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Took the muffler deletes off the WRX and went back to stock mufflers with the upgraded J-pipe. It had been straight piped for the past 10k miles and was just getting a little annoying. I took the deletes from my last WRX after some dumb bitch wrecked it and put them on this one when it had like 10 miles so the stock mufflers are brand new.  
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Jun 5, 2018 23:19
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Replaced my 2000 Ranger's broken (again!) driver's door handle with the revised '01-up design. Installation was a bit of a bear, but it feels much more solid.
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Jun 6, 2018 17:08
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I know I’ve been making GBS threads this thread up with my MINI mods but here’s another: Header time!   Installation was relatively straightforward, but as usual nothing is truly bolt-on. The new multi-layer exhaust manifold gasket only had seven holes for the bolts instead of eight so I punched a new one in. I also had to modify the stock upper heat shield, which was expected, and massage the lower tunnel heat shields for clearance in a couple of spots (oxygen sensor spacer specifically). Took about 2.5 hours including stopping to do a muffler swap on a friend’s WRX. Amazingly there were zero rusty or rounded bolts on the factory stuff. And a driveway-rev video. My older son REALLY loves getting to rev for these videos. https://youtu.be/bOuWHZo1Ljc Bonus pic of the big goon and his favorite shirt since he graduated to the high school today. 
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Jun 6, 2018 21:43
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    Washed, waxed, trim restored and polished the Surf today. Vinyl Magic is pretty great stuff, treated the entire back plastic/fiberglass topper with it, along with all the plastic trim around the bumpers. Brasso'd the wheels. Feels good man.
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Jun 8, 2018 02:20
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KakerMix posted:
How long does the vinyl magic last? The trim and bumper restorer I use lasts like a week tops
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Jun 8, 2018 02:35
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Doing the work the previous owner neglected on my 2010 Mazda 3. Last Saturday -New KYB struts -New KYB shocks Today -Replaced stock sway bar links with Moog links, front chunking noise totally gone -Rear brake pads -Replaced factory stereo with a Sony AVX-AX100 Next up is rear links, one is bad so replacing both. Tomorrow the dealer is doing a recall and warranty replacement of my dash since it’s sticky and Mazda covers it.
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Jun 8, 2018 03:07
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Imperador do Brasil posted:How long does the vinyl magic last? The trim and bumper restorer I use lasts like a week tops Dunno, this is the first time I'm using it. I used Mother's Trim Restorer before and that seemed to last about a month, maybe more. It was great in the sun but if it rains that seems to gray up the plastic quickly.
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Jun 8, 2018 03:17
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Imperador do Brasil posted:
Your son doesn't look old enough to be an adult yet. Better give him a few scars, toughen him up for the crushing pains life will throw at him.
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Jun 8, 2018 04:40
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Imperador do Brasil posted:How long does the vinyl magic last? The trim and bumper restorer I use lasts like a week tops Kinda curious about this too. My dash, of all things, has some pretty severe fading (mostly where the passenger side airbag resides). It's normally charcoal, it's more light gray in several spots that the airbag would pull the Kool-Aid man stunt out of. I'm guessing the plastic is a lot thinner in that area.
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Jun 8, 2018 09:55
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Rhyno posted:Your son doesn't look old enough to be an adult yet. Better give him a few scars, toughen him up for the crushing pains life will throw at him. He’s only 12, high school here starts in 7th grade. But he does already drive manual and know the basics of oil changes and how to swap a wheel on a car. I gave him a list of skills he needed to have before he was allowed to get his license so he helps me out as much as he can in between his own projects. I’m sure he will come out of childhood with plenty of emotional scars from my parenting.
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Jun 8, 2018 11:18
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Wait, he's 12? Maybe it's the perspective, but he looks like he's almost as tall as I am (granted, I'm kinda short at 5'7"). When I was his age I was mayyyyybe 4'10", and I was around 5'5" when I graduated from HS (just before I turned 18). I definitely knew how to drive by then, though, and knew my way around cars enough to do a brake pad swap, pack wheel bearings, change oil, etc, around the time I was his age. I had 2 people try to teach me how to drive manual before I was 18... and my stepdad kept trying to talk me out of it, saying clutches were a yearly service item. I finally went out and bought a beater with a clutch when I was 19, and had to figure out how to get it home during rush hour in Dallas. So far I've never had to replace a clutch for wear (instead they've been a "well you blew up the trans, may as well replace it while we're in here, since half the springs are broken" on 1 car  and a "well the trans is dead, the clutch is half worn, may as well do it now" job on another).
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 11:48 on Jun 8, 2018 |
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Jun 8, 2018 11:44
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My brother's ~235k mile 944 is on its 3rd clutch, but has had 2 transmission replacements and is on its 2nd rebuild on its 3rd trans. And according to the PO, this new clutch only replaced the 2nd one because it's more aggressive, as he was transitioning it from a street car to a track car Maybe it's modern material science, but I don't think they're significant wear items if you don't ride the pedal or drive aggressively
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Jun 8, 2018 15:43
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STR posted:Wait, he's 12? Maybe it's the perspective, but he looks like he's almost as tall as I am (granted, I'm kinda short at 5'7"). Yeah he’s about 5’5”. I taught him to drive when he was 9, but he’s always been interested in cars. Definitely good with his hands as well as some brains so I have high hopes for his future. Hopefully he doesn’t get lazy in his study habits like his old man.
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Jun 8, 2018 18:30
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The Door Frame posted:Maybe it's modern material science, but I don't think they're significant wear items if you don't ride the pedal or drive aggressively Exactly my point. Speaking of, GF had to replace the original clutch on her Matrix at 80k. She's bad about 3k slowwwwwww launches. Driving her car is definitely a bit different than driving my own, but that's more because GM uses a stupid heavy flywheel on mine.I don't like letting her drive my car because of how she treats the clutch, but then I get in hers and wind up stalling constantly.
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Jun 8, 2018 20:29
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i have only had to replace the clutch in the RSX-S and that was basically my track car at the time
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Jun 8, 2018 20:32
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My S2000 has 171k on the stock clutch, no issues. My GTI had clutch slip issues by 10k after a tune/downpipe until I removed the clutch nannys. Comes down to the car sometimes
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Jun 8, 2018 20:34
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BlackMK4 posted:My S2000 has 171k on the stock clutch, no issues. My GTI had clutch slip issues by 10k after a tune/downpipe until I removed the clutch nannys. I’m at 15k now and waiting, nothing yet. It’ll just be an excuse to get a new clutch that can handle the IS38 turbo/tune.
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Jun 8, 2018 21:28
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When my rustimas clutch gave out (due to operating as a wet clutch from a rms leak) I just scraped the car, it did have well over 200k km on it with the original clutch. The underside was so rusty it had structural carpet and gently caress touching all those rusted bolts trying to get the trans off. The only car I've replaced the clutch multiple times was my Baja, but that was more due to power creep causing me to exceed the torque ratings on them causing slip and transmission changes that requires a clutch style change from push style to pull style.
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Jun 8, 2018 22:04
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Installed an intake and tune on the Chevy SS. Supposedly picks up about 35whp from stock between the two. Before  After I also found out I have about a foot of space between the belts and the fans in case anything would want to live there in the future.
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Jun 8, 2018 23:18
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doogle posted:I also found out I have about a foot of space between the belts and the fans in case anything would want to live there in the future. Knowing your history, this must mean turbo(s). 
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Jun 9, 2018 03:36
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doogle posted:I also found out I have about a foot of space between the belts and the fans in case anything would want to live there in the future. I've heard of going from clutch fans to electric fans but going back the other way seems unnecessary?  boost iiiit
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Jun 9, 2018 03:41
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doogle posted:Installed an intake and tune on the Chevy SS. Supposedly picks up about 35whp from stock between the two. What tune? Livernois? Rotofab is the go-to but i think the window for the air filter is cheesy.
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Jun 9, 2018 04:12
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I jacked up my C5, took the front wheels off, and changed the headlights. Man, is that a bear. I went to put them down, and they wouldn't go. I thought maybe I jammed something. I couldn't find out what was going on. I could see the motors start to turn, then stop. I actuated them manually just fine. I realized I had the parking lights on a long time while I cussed the headlights trying to change them. I put the battery charger on it for about 5 minutes and problem solved. I'm taking the calipers and rotors off tomorrow to paint them. Then I just have to polish the wheels.
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Jun 10, 2018 04:00
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Recently my parents gifted my mom's previous car to me, a 2005 Focus four-door hatch. She got it brand new in '05 and put about 5k miles/year on it, nearly all surface street driving. Seafoamed it today, never seen a smoke show of that magnitude before. For the first five minutes there were actual bits of carbon shooting out of the tail pipe, and smoke was visible for a good half hour afterwards when I drove it on the highway to give it an Italian tuneup. Cleaned out the MAF and replaced all three engine mounts too, eliminating most of the vibration I was feeling and now it starts easily and idles smooth - there was a pretty bad misfire during start and it would take a moment for the idle to stabilize. I swear car maintenance is anathema to my father. It may have been free, but I'm going to have to throw about $1500 into it to correct some body rust and catch up on a decade of deferred maintenance. Geoj fucked around with this message at 05:01 on Jun 10, 2018 |
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Jun 10, 2018 04:59
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Mr-Spain posted:What tune? Livernois? Rotofab is the go-to but i think the window for the air filter is cheesy. Yeah, livernois tune and rotofab intake. I got a really good deal on a kooks green catted mid pipes. I'm going to have a set of magnaflow resonators welded in right after the xpipe to quiet it down a bit too. So it will be cats->x pipe->resonators->stock mufflers. Hopefully it will be around stock sound levels at idle and low rpm (probably not)
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Jun 10, 2018 12:16
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Geoj posted:Recently my parents gifted my mom's previous car to me, a 2005 Focus four-door hatch. She got it brand new in '05 and put about 5k miles/year on it, nearly all surface street driving. Sounds like my Mazda 3. Somehow it still runs really well but the PO never took great care except oil changes. Had the original plugs in at 178k! How the PO drove it with bad struts and links is beyond me, it drove me insane.
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Jun 10, 2018 13:13
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Also replace the plugs, I bet they're frightful.
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Jun 10, 2018 13:47
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Yeah I’d replace the plugs and change the oil after that.
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Jun 10, 2018 15:09
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