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I've been wanting a drill press. They are exceedingly expensive here in Iceland, and rarely come up used (though I'm checking). Has anyone had any luck with a drill press that holds your existing hand drill? or even making a DIY drill press that holds your hand drill? Thinking this: http://fossberg.is/?prodid=1588 or this: http://www.instructables.com/id/Cheap-Drill-Press-DIY/ poopinmymouth fucked around with this message at 10:19 on Jun 4, 2018 |
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Jun 4, 2018 10:15
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I have one of the ones you strap your drill into and it's a piece of poo poo. I have no idea if nice ones exist, but I suspect once you get into the $$ range you may as well just buy the real thing.
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Jun 5, 2018 07:14
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The forces involved make diy drill presses mostly bad.
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Jun 5, 2018 14:15
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Truth. I once demonstrated the amount of pressure ours can exert by putting a 1/8" bit through a 1.5" piece of cedar. (without turning the drill on)
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Jun 5, 2018 14:30
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poopinmymouth posted:I've been wanting a drill press. They are exceedingly expensive here in Iceland, and rarely come up used (though I'm checking). Has anyone had any luck with a drill press that holds your existing hand drill? or even making a DIY drill press that holds your hand drill? How expensive is expensive? I'd start looking into importing one if prices are that bad.
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Jun 5, 2018 14:55
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poopinmymouth posted:I've been wanting a drill press. They are exceedingly expensive here in Iceland, and rarely come up used (though I'm checking). Has anyone had any luck with a drill press that holds your existing hand drill? or even making a DIY drill press that holds your hand drill? I guess what is your goal for a small drill press like this? If it’s just straight holes, would a homemade drill guide work just as well? I think on a smaller scale a drill guide, would be less expensive and work better than one of those spring loaded jobies that hold a hand drill. You can make one as simple as a hole through a block of wood, or get fancy with a brass bushing or sleeve through a block of wood.
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Jun 5, 2018 15:11
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Peach Tree is having a sale on router bits https://www.ptreeusa.com/rtr_router_bit_stone_mountain_sale_599.html
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Jun 5, 2018 16:52
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I guess maybe this belongs in the woodworking thread. I'm trying to install a piece of granite as a floating shelf with a custom drawer under it and I'm looking for some advice on mounting as well as what materials are recommended. The counter will be about 60"x20". There will be a cabinet sitting on the floor which I had intended to use as a partial support of the countertop. Framing out the rest to support the plywood/countertop I came up with this, but am looking for any ideas on what might be better. The ledger boards on the walls will obviously be screwed into studs. Finished concept:  Framing: 
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Jun 5, 2018 20:11
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poopinmymouth posted:I've been wanting a drill press. They are exceedingly expensive here in Iceland, and rarely come up used (though I'm checking). Has anyone had any luck with a drill press that holds your existing hand drill? or even making a DIY drill press that holds your hand drill? Falco posted:I guess what is your goal for a small drill press like this? If it’s just straight holes, would a homemade drill guide work just as well? I think on a smaller scale a drill guide, would be less expensive and work better than one of those spring loaded jobies that hold a hand drill. You can make one as simple as a hole through a block of wood, or get fancy with a brass bushing or sleeve through a block of wood.  If you need a drill press for more than straight holes, like putting big holes in tough stock, repeatedly, the hand drill mount won’t perform well.
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Jun 6, 2018 04:22
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thanks, seems I'll just keep trolling the classifieds for used (cheapest I've found new is 700 bux) Managed to get my workbench finished. The butcher block top is 3.6 meters long, tons of space. The sliding doors hide my power tools, and the hand tools will go on the wall with custom hooks (already got the 2m straight edge and L-square up in this photo). Doors are birch plywood in aluminum U channels, and I found recessed handles so they can slide past each other for overlap.  
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Jun 6, 2018 11:22
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this is probably a really dumb question but whats the best thing to use to clean a birch desktop that I sealed with danish oil, that won't react with the oil?
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Jun 6, 2018 11:59
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underage at the vape shop posted:this is probably a really dumb question but whats the best thing to use to clean a birch desktop that I sealed with danish oil, that won't react with the oil?
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Jun 6, 2018 14:44
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Slugworth posted:I made a 4'x4' garden box that looks like this My wife came up with a pretty good solution to a raised flow bed. she filled the bottom with empty plastic milk jugs, then a tarp, then the dirt. structurally sound, and saved a bunch of dirt. she did the same thing with some tall flower pots which makes it so I can actually move them without a forklift.
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Jun 6, 2018 15:03
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I could use some wood treatment recommendations. I'm building a tall (5') narrow (1') standing cabinet that will sit in an area between the toilet and the shower. It won't get directly wet, but it definitely gets steamy during showers, and water spilling over from the shower on the tile outside etc may contact the legs of the cabinet. I'm building it up on 4 legs standing about 4" off of the floor below. The whole thing is frame and panel constructed with pine and 1/4" birch plywood. I intend for it to ultimately be painted. I was wondering if anyone had tips on how best to treat the wood prior to painting given that it will be seeing a good bit more moisture than regular furniture. Wasn't sure if I should oil and seal the whole thing and then paint, or if there was a particular type of paint that I could just directly apply after sanding that would seal it up well enough etc. Any recommendations?
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Jun 6, 2018 15:21
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As far as I'm aware, paint should be all you need. I mean, I guess you could treat the wood with a preservative. But I don't think it's necessary.
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Jun 6, 2018 15:29
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That Works posted:I could use some wood treatment recommendations. Any good quality paint (and there is a world of difference between big box store paint and real Ben Moore/Sherwin Williams) should hold up fine. I would stay away from particle board/MDF in your construction, but plywood and solid wood should be fine. Painted pine baseboard in bathrooms doesn't usually just start rotting. Gloss will get you a bit more water resistance and ease of cleaning than flat paint.
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Jun 6, 2018 16:06
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Any good quality paint (and there is a world of difference between big box store paint and real Ben Moore/Sherwin Williams) should hold up fine. I would stay away from particle board/MDF in your construction, but plywood and solid wood should be fine. Painted pine baseboard in bathrooms doesn't usually just start rotting. Gloss will get you a bit more water resistance and ease of cleaning than flat paint. Can you explain/expand on the difference? I don't usually paint my woodworking projects but I'm wondering what the difference is when I'm painting a room, for example.
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Jun 6, 2018 17:10
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Magnus Praeda posted:Can you explain/expand on the difference? I don't usually paint my woodworking projects but I'm wondering what the difference is when I'm painting a room, for example. It should be labeled as enamel for wood application vs. flat latex for wall. Go with oil based paint for wood. Also, HD carries Behr, which is, or was a quality brand.
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Jun 6, 2018 18:00
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Last I checked, which was admittedly most of a decade ago, the Behr premium line compared favorably with Sherwin Williams.
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Jun 6, 2018 18:02
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Cool, so oil-based Sherwin-Williams or maybe Behr grade stuff. Would I need a primer coat for these? The only wood finishing I've done so far was oil and polyurethane wiping varnish.
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Jun 6, 2018 18:28
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If your paint doesn't include a primer then you should use a primer coat. If your paint does include a primer then you shouldn't need a primer coat, but it won't hurt anything if you add one. If you're planning a light-colored paint then you might as well prime it 'cause you're going to need multiple coats anyway.
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Jun 6, 2018 18:47
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Thanks a bunch. TooMuchAbstraction posted:If your paint doesn't include a primer then you should use a primer coat. If your paint does include a primer then you shouldn't need a primer coat, but it won't hurt anything if you add one. If you're planning a light-colored paint then you might as well prime it 'cause you're going to need multiple coats anyway.
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Jun 6, 2018 18:58
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That Works posted:Cool, so oil-based Sherwin-Williams or maybe Behr grade stuff. Would I need a primer coat for these? Yes, sanding primer.
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Jun 6, 2018 20:43
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Crib update: A second one was ordered and it turns out it went to a production company in LA and will be showing up on TV at some point. Woo?
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Jun 6, 2018 21:26
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Javid posted:Crib update: A second one was ordered and it turns out it went to a production company in LA and will be showing up on TV at some point. Woo? You probably should open a 2nd store in Hollywood imo, jimbo
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Jun 6, 2018 22:34
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Mr. Mambold posted:It should be labeled as enamel for wood application vs. flat latex for wall. Go with oil based paint for wood. Also, HD carries Behr, which is, or was a quality brand.
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Jun 7, 2018 03:50
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Slugworth posted:Is Glidden considered bad? Because I've used it twice, and it struck me as monumentally lovely, but I'm a bad painter, so who knows. I don't recall. The other guy mentioned Sherwin-Williams and around here Moore is Kelly Moore- they're both exclusively paint stores, and I agree with him, high quality. Plus their people are helpful.
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Jun 7, 2018 03:57
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Slugworth posted:Is Glidden considered bad? Because I've used it twice, and it struck me as monumentally lovely, but I'm a bad painter, so who knows. They are not particularly good. They're low cost paint, and low cost means less of the things that makes it a good paint. It's the paint you want to buy if you're painting a lot of walls about once every year or two. Sherwin-Williams is my favorite to use lately, and I'm in the middle of repainting every room in my house including trim and ceilings which were also in terrible shape. It's more expensive, but not terribly so for small projects. I'd still use a primer on new wood just because primer is cheaper than doing a second coat of paint and can replace that second coat.
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Jun 7, 2018 05:45
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Slugworth posted:Is Glidden considered bad? Because I've used it twice, and it struck me as monumentally lovely, but I'm a bad painter, so who knows. Glidden is bad, we tried painting with it, gave up half way through, threw it out and bought Benjamin Moore. One thing that someone mentioned was to pick up a gallon of cheap paint and a gallon of expensive paint and notice how the expensive paint is heavier.
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Jun 7, 2018 16:25
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Sherwin Williams All Surface Enamel flows out beautifully and dries slowly like oil paint but cleans up with water and dries hard and shiny and is my go-to for painted furniture or cabinets or whatever.
Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 00:05 on Jun 8, 2018 |
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Jun 7, 2018 23:58
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Guys, I’m kind of stuck on something and I’m hoping you all can offer some advice. I’m still not getting much of a sheen on my charcuterie board. It looks “waxed” but not reflecting any light. Now I’m not expecting a lacquered look, but there’s a slab of walnut at Rockler that was done with Odie’s oil, Odie’s wood butter, and Odi’es wax. It was buffed, and it has a real nice finished look to it. So... mine: Flooded with mineral oil. Dried. 2 coats of Odie’s wax. Allowed it to do its thing for 90 min before buffing with an orbital buffer. Got some Odie’s wood butter. Massages it in to “feed” the wax. Let it sit a bit. Buffed it out. Still no sheen. What am I doing wrong here? Or what can I try? This is about the level (or even a step less?!) of sheen. https://goo.gl/images/US6Huh
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Jun 8, 2018 00:29
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Feenix posted:Guys, I’m kind of stuck on something and I’m hoping you all can offer some advice. I’m still not getting much of a sheen on my charcuterie board. It looks “waxed” but not reflecting any light. Mineral oil? Ok, it's a cutting block. Is that other stuff food-edible or whatever they call it? I don't think you'll ever get a sheen with mineral oil as it doesn't build, imo.
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Jun 8, 2018 00:50
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Mr. Mambold posted:Mineral oil? Ok, it's a cutting block. Is that other stuff food-edible or whatever they call it? I don't think you'll ever get a sheen with mineral oil as it doesn't build, imo. Mineral oil was the base coat. All of it is food safe. Odie’s is great stuff. I let the mineral oil soak in, wiped off, and then let it dry a few days. Then waxed, etc...
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Jun 8, 2018 01:30
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Feenix posted:Mineral oil was the base coat. All of it is food safe. Odie’s is great stuff. I let the mineral oil soak in, wiped off, and then let it dry a few days. Then waxed, etc... As I mentioned, mineral oil doesn't build. I think the only workaround would be if you pre-sanded the board to like 1000 or 2000 fine grit before you started oiling it.
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Jun 8, 2018 01:51
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Ah so you’re saying the mineral oil is prohibiting anything on top? Ok. Then I hosed up. Oh well, still looks nice.
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Jun 8, 2018 02:19
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Feenix posted:Ah so you’re saying the mineral oil is prohibiting anything on top? Ok. Then I hosed up. Oh well, still looks nice. You can still sand it to a higher grit-it's going to clog sandpaper in a hurry, but some of that sanding goop/dust is going to help fill the pores in the wood and get you a higher gloss. Sanding with the grain with 320 wet or dry paper with mineral oil as lube would probably help. Without a film finish under the wax you are going to have a really hard time getting much past a satin finish without rubbing and rubbing and rubbing wax in, but the original finish on a lot of 18th century antiques was just beeswax rubbed and rubbed and rubbed. But then, if you could afford fine furniture you could also afford to have servants to wax it for you. You have to fill every pore in the wood full of wax and then have a layer sitting on top of the wood that can buff. Is the Odies a hard wax or like a paste? It is hard to get paste wax to stay put and fill the pores, where rubbing with solid beeswax will cause friction and begin melt the wax into the wood where it hardens and can be buffed, but that's pretty hard work. If it is a paste, put a heavy layer on and let it dry overnight at least and then buff and repeat several times is going to be your best bet.
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Jun 8, 2018 17:07
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:You can still sand it to a higher grit-it's going to clog sandpaper in a hurry, but some of that sanding goop/dust is going to help fill the pores in the wood and get you a higher gloss. Sanding with the grain with 320 wet or dry paper with mineral oil as lube would probably help. Thanks for this advice. I do wonder if part of the problem is that the mineral oil doesn't really ever dry. And that it's my base coat. I need to get it dry first, I guess. So for that 320 grit sandpaper, should I use a random orbital or just by hand? At this point, while I don't mind trying to get that finish I wanted, I'd be satisfied just making sure it is "dry" enough to use for a charcuterie board. It still has a slightly waxy feel to it and the aroma of the wood butter (a nice citrus, mind) is still present. The Odie's wax, I believe is a paste wax. It came in a jar. It was hard as gently caress, though. I had to leave it out in the sun all day just to get it to where I could rub some off onto a rag.
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Jun 8, 2018 17:19
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Looks like I have a bit of a tough weekend ahead of me.Jaded Burnout posted:OK so before I called it for the night I had another look at the downstairs doorways.
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Jun 9, 2018 01:04
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:You can still sand it to a higher grit-it's going to clog sandpaper in a hurry, but some of that sanding goop/dust is going to help fill the pores in the wood and get you a higher gloss. Sanding with the grain with 320 wet or dry paper with mineral oil as lube would probably help. Hey, working off your advice, I took my wood piece to Rockler and talked to a seasoned employee who was their "finishing" guy. He heard me out, looked at my piece, and recommended: Sanding with 400, lubrication of tung oil (pure.) Wipe, let dry. 50/50 Tung and Mineral Spirits. Flood. Then wipe. Then dry Second coat of pure Tung. Let dry. Buff. How's that sit by you? It seems solid to me.
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Jun 9, 2018 21:10
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Feenix posted:Hey, working off your advice, I took my wood piece to Rockler and talked to a seasoned employee who was their "finishing" guy. You're definitely on the right track, and you haven't screwed anything up with the mineral oil or anything. If you're going to use mineral spirits anyway, you might want to wipe off some of the wax first with mineral spirits (or really VM&P Naphtha is best for getting wax off) to help the oil penetrate better. Before using either, you might want to try them on some raw wood and let them dry to see if any odor remains in the wood after they dry. I'm not sure I've ever used them on something that would have food contact, but after they evaporate, I can't see any problem if there's no odor left. If you're really worried about it being food safe (and I wouldn't be that much if its mostly just a serving board) make sure your Tung oil is food safe. There's a million different finishing products called 'tung oil' and they have varying proportions of actual tung oil and linseed oil and dryers and who knows what else in them. I've used Waterlox before to good effect on butcher block countertops and I think when cured it is more or less food safe. Looks like they make one with an 85 gloss which is the same sheen level as gloss lacquer. Raw linseed oil is a good alternative (in its more refined form its sold in health food stores as flaxseed oil) but takes forever (days to weeks) to dry. It is a drying oil and completely food safe/natural though, and will polymerize into something of a film eventually, unlike mineral oil. Either way, waxing after you get the oil down will still help get you a bit better shine, as will more and more coats of oil. Part of the reason old, well used wood has such a nice shine and patina is just being rubbed by many hands for years and years, and oiling while sanding with very fine sandpaper helps replicate some of that. I don't know what your original sanding process was , but as this will probably be washed in water, its a good idea to wet the piece to raise the grain, and then sand down again with 220 or finer. If you hadn't done that before you oiled it, it won't hurt to do it now and will keep it from getting fuzzy. Still don't put it in the dishwasher. No wood cutting board can survive multiple trips to the dishwasher. Probably more information than you care about-I've been doing this professionally for about 8 years now and realized I think I'm one of the few people who actually really enjoys the finishing part of woodworking. Nothing ruins excellent woodwork faster than direct sunlight or a bad finish. Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 22:15 on Jun 9, 2018 |
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Jun 9, 2018 22:11
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