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Ambrose Burnside posted:Anybody got any recommendations for academic/non-layman-oriented works on the history of machine tools? I don't know if it's suitably academic, but 'English and American tool builders' by Jospeh Wickham Roe was published in the early 20th century and is a great book with lots of anecdotes about Maudslay, Whitworth, Nasmyth, Watt etc. It gives a great appreciation for the men who wanted to do work accurate to a thousandth and had to build a lathe from scratch capable of that precision, but also had to invent and build their own micrometers along the way.
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# ? Jun 10, 2018 05:09 |
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# ? May 9, 2024 23:57 |
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A mill question - what type of non-cnc mills can boast these tolerances? - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jBQshGm33lQ&t=5s (completely flat across x, y, of table and ram parallel to y within 0.01mm)
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# ? Jun 10, 2018 10:56 |
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Been working on the bench grinder I acquired recently. Here's what the rest that came with looked like. I believe it was added on after the fact. At least the sheet metal piece anyway. I derusted all the parts last night in water and citric acid, worked real well, then I buffed the parts to get the residue off. Here you can see the new tool rest and some layout lines to indicate where I plan to remove the material. The wheels are 150x25mm or 6x1" if I remember right. Plan to make the support on the sides 20mm deep, I think that will be enough, can't make it too deep or it will start to hit the wheel covers when the wheel shrinks in size. Sundays work so far, went with a tilting setup after considering a simpler solution. Everything is not yet together or parts properly finished, just a mockup to see the principle. I think the two joints should allow me a suitable range of angles. I will have to give up the knobs too, they are now too large to fit in here. If I had a knurling tool I'd make my own smaller ones, for now I will use a wrench. The top of the table cleaned up well, I chucked in the 4-jaw and faced it.
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# ? Jun 10, 2018 16:09 |
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Can anyone recommend or have experience with Mitutoyo Digimatic indicators or a sensitive distance measuring device? Can you recommend a model? I was thinking to get around my bannana shaped mill table I could do a surface map of the table, then hook up a stepper or servo to the Z and digital readout to a PC. If the table knows its position and height, it can compensate on Z to mill something large flat. But the indicator needs to output data at a reasonable rate to a PC. I'd do the programming in matlab or on an arduino or something. I also like the look of the Mitutoyo digimatics that can hook up to measure bores. You sweep them through the bore when its attached to a bore gauge and it automatically records the smallest measurement. They are kind of pricey though and there are a lot of models, perhaps an induction sensor would be better. Mudfly fucked around with this message at 05:21 on Jun 11, 2018 |
# ? Jun 11, 2018 05:02 |
Mudfly posted:Can anyone recommend or have experience with Mitutoyo Digimatic indicators or a sensitive distance measuring device? Can you recommend a model? We use the mitutoyo digimatics. They're ok. Our IT guy wrote a vb program to convert output to excel for poo poo like that. We also use LVDT's (Keyence) in process and those are nice too. The IT guy isn't near me right now but I recall the mitutoyo interface being kind of funky. It's also big, which sucks for using it for other normal indicator stuff. Could you just use a standard tenths indicator and take a manual reading every inch or so? Might be enough to approximate your curve and save you $1000. What's the go to books for foundry / casting stuff? We've got some tooling to cast out of lead and debating doing it in house.
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# ? Jun 11, 2018 14:13 |
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Yooper posted:
I was going to suggest the same thing.
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# ? Jun 11, 2018 15:25 |
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Yeah, if your main interest in one is for a one-off would-be-nice project, you're basically paying hundreds and hundreds of dollars to save you the labour of recording a few dozen values on grid paper with a pencil. If you don't expect to use it all the time I'd put it out of your head unless you've got stupid spending money you wanna burn.
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# ? Jun 11, 2018 17:09 |
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I'm asking this assuming the answer is "don't do it", but I thought I'd ask. Leadworking. I have some flashing to do on some parapet roof drainage. I have a heat gun, I have roofing lead (left behind by someone who knew what they were doing). Do I need a full on torch? Is this something I just shouldn't be messing with?
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# ? Jun 11, 2018 18:16 |
Jaded Burnout posted:I'm asking this assuming the answer is "don't do it", but I thought I'd ask. You're more likely to burn something down. Soldering lead isn't that big of a deal. We use a modified propane torch assembly with a very controlled tip. On top of that we have excellent ventilation. Health wise, familiarize yourself with the hazards, understand the vapor and skin contact issues, don't stick it in your mouth etc.
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# ? Jun 11, 2018 20:18 |
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Do wear a respirator rated for metal fumes, though. Soldering lead with an iron isn't a big deal because you never get it hot enough to vaporize (Maxwell-Boltzmann distribution aside). But if you're hitting it with a torch, there's a much greater chance of creating vapors, and you definitely don't want that in your body. I saw a video interview once with a guy who'd worked in an auto body shop back in the 50s and 60s, when they would repair dents by troweling on molten lead with a torch, and he was clearly missing some important parts of his brain.
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# ? Jun 11, 2018 20:39 |
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This would be outside and I have a good respirator, but if I need to buy in a torch I’ll leave it be.
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# ? Jun 11, 2018 20:49 |
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Sagebrush posted:Soldering lead with an iron isn't a big deal because you never get it hot enough to vaporize (Maxwell-Boltzmann distribution aside). pfeh, naturally
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# ? Jun 11, 2018 21:41 |
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Well I think I am calling it done for now. Now to get serious about dressing and getting a new coarse wheel at least. I just finished my first cylinder of argon and it's about now that it's running out I feel I am getting a bit better at it. They do say you need to weld up at least a cylinder of argon before you get anywhere. Took me over a year to use up this bottle so I have not been tigging that much. I think it's equivalent of an 80-90 CUF cylinder.
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# ? Jun 12, 2018 08:47 |
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Ambrose Burnside posted:Anybody got any recommendations for academic/non-layman-oriented works on the history of machine tools? BBC made a couple shows called "industrial revelations". I like the first two series, personally, but I think the ones after that are pretty good as well. Great intro into how things got started.
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# ? Jun 13, 2018 20:36 |
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I've been using my shops 90gal ultrasonic cleaner to degrease parts for my Atlas 618 that I bought a month ago. I don't think these parts were this clean when they came off the line at the factory. I wish I had time to do a full restoration on the lathe.
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# ? Jun 14, 2018 15:10 |
Ambrose Burnside posted:Anybody got any recommendations for academic/non-layman-oriented works on the history of machine tools? I just picked up Simon Winchesters' The Perfectionists : How Precision Engineers Created the Modern World and have been happy with it so far.
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# ? Jun 14, 2018 21:03 |
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long https://i.imgur.com/guXieNp.mp4
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# ? Jun 15, 2018 02:48 |
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# ? Jun 15, 2018 03:44 |
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# ? Jun 15, 2018 04:30 |
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Unf
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# ? Jun 15, 2018 04:55 |
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Work's a drag at the tinfoil factory.
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# ? Jun 15, 2018 08:31 |
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Any idea why they'd need to shaper something this long? I rarely see shapers outside of like...specialty gear makers. EDIT: Since we're chattin bout shapers https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PnE_h5qmjpk
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# ? Jun 15, 2018 12:45 |
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I was trying to figure it out too. My best guess is that they're making a rail for some kind of special-purpose equipment that needs to slide back and forth over a long distance very precisely. Maybe some kind of factory carriage system or part of a physics experiment or something like that.
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# ? Jun 15, 2018 17:26 |
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Is that machine a planer or a shaper? I've never really understood what a metalworking planer is. It's doubly confusing for me because woodworking planers and shapers that I'm used to are nothing like the metalwork machines of the same name.
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# ? Jun 15, 2018 18:15 |
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Is that machine a planer or a shaper? I've never really understood what a metalworking planer is. It's doubly confusing for me because woodworking planers and shapers that I'm used to are nothing like the metalwork machines of the same name. A planer moves the work (like a surface grinder with a stationary tool). It creates a plane relative to the tool. A shaper moves the tool against stationary work.
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# ? Jun 15, 2018 18:31 |
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We do work for a local mold shop that has a big rear end planer that he uses to make molds for windshield wipers. Or maybe it's a shaper. I can't remember which one moves.
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# ? Jun 15, 2018 19:53 |
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Follow them at https://www.instagram.com/daichihira/ One time they said it was because the beams would deflect too far from any side cutting loads but then I've seen them do it to plates, too.
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# ? Jun 15, 2018 20:57 |
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CarForumPoster posted:A planer moves the work (like a surface grinder with a stationary tool). It creates a plane relative to the tool. A shaper moves the tool against stationary work. In that video (there's several others) the camera is stationary to the tool, but it's the bed that's moving the part/work.
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# ? Jun 15, 2018 21:49 |
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Making an AR15 the hard way. He has a multipart video to show the steps in mroe detail but its an excellent "how to machine complex home shop castings" video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=on1d9Bz34bU
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# ? Jun 16, 2018 18:11 |
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Using cans sounds good in theory but in practice it’s more trouble than it’s worth.
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# ? Jun 16, 2018 18:56 |
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Rapulum_Dei posted:Using cans sounds good in theory but in practice it’s more trouble than it’s worth. Yea especially when you can get higher strength castings that flow better in the form of alloy wheels that are 20lbs of high quality aluminum. I can buy them around here for $15-20. But as a video demonstrating how much one can do in a home shop, thats a fantastic example.
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# ? Jun 17, 2018 15:44 |
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Renovating the cement mixer still. The big uh cogwheel has a crack and I needed to adjust it's fit anyway: Stick and 7018 hade some difficulty building up material So I swapped to Tig and filled it up. Started getting lots of spitting though. And welding the inside Think this is the reason the Tig is sputtering
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# ? Jun 17, 2018 15:48 |
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Just got back from my local pawn shop that has lots of tools. Picked up a Starrett 98-18" machinist level and a .5" Starrett 25-441 dial indicator for $75usd total! I needed a nice level for my new lathe, but couldn't afford to buy one new. So happy.
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# ? Jun 18, 2018 20:55 |
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Brekelefuw posted:Just got back from my local pawn shop that has lots of tools. You're a lucky bastard. Related to bastards, I got a nice new bastard file and 8kg of charcoal for me forge for dirt cheap. Now I'm gonna be a dumbass and work with hot metal in 34 degree heat edit: yeup, that was in fact a stupid thing to do. MohawkSatan fucked around with this message at 22:49 on Jun 18, 2018 |
# ? Jun 18, 2018 21:24 |
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Everyone should follow and subscribe to this guy on YouTube. His videos are funny and his skills are fantastic. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=guqFnpuJySw He doesn't even have 500 followers and he deserves way more.
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# ? Jun 19, 2018 01:27 |
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yeah, he's great. does excellent video with what he has. reminds me of French guy cooking.
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# ? Jun 19, 2018 01:42 |
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That is fantastic. What a wonderfully skilled nut.
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# ? Jun 19, 2018 01:52 |
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He said there would definitely be some gravy. There was no gravy.
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# ? Jun 19, 2018 07:37 |
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I've become interested in clocks lately and am interested in trying to make my own long case clock mechanism. I have a lot of woodworking experience and some welding experience and am tolerably proficient with a file, but no machining experience or equipment. Am I crazy or is that a doable thing? Any books y'all might recommend?
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# ? Jun 19, 2018 16:37 |
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# ? May 9, 2024 23:57 |
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:I've become interested in clocks lately and am interested in trying to make my own long case clock mechanism. I have a lot of woodworking experience and some welding experience and am tolerably proficient with a file, but no machining experience or equipment. Am I crazy or is that a doable thing? Any books y'all might recommend? I would suggest watching Clickspring on youtube for an idea of what you'd be getting into. In theory you can manually machine a clock, but it's gonna be a multi year process. On top of that, you're entering a while new world of pain with regards to tolerances. Welcome to thinking of 0.003" as plenty of space. As for books, if you're doing manual machining, I've got nothing to advise. If you're thinking of getting some machining equipment to speed things along, then short of lucky second hand finds you're looking at many many thousands of dollars in equipment. I'd advise getting whatever the newest Machinery's Handbook is as well, and a copy of Machine Tool Practices(my favourite textbook from when I was at BCIT). Plus in either case to make a clock you're gonna need some very good measuring tools, so you can tack another grand. And at the end of the day, if something is out of spec, even slightly, your clock is gonna need to be set constantly because it'll go out. It's doable, but you'd have to be crazy about machining and clocks to do it.
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# ? Jun 19, 2018 16:53 |