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Queen Victorian
Feb 21, 2018

QuarkJets posted:

What the gently caress do I do with this stump?

Do you have small children? Hollow out some rooms and passageways in the sides to make it into a circular forest dollhouse for tiny gnomes or something (and get some little plastic gnome/elf/animal figurine toys to live in the stump). When My sister and I were little, we had a blast making a rotten stump we found into an epic forest dollhouse playset (this stump was so rotten we could make hollows in it with sticks).

If you don't have small children, I'd try the stump out rot acceleration stuff or get a twisted log splitter wedge and a sledgehammer to split the stump apart in several places, which should make it easier to break apart and pull out of the ground.

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DR FRASIER KRANG
Feb 4, 2005

"Are you forgetting that just this afternoon I was punched in the face by a turtle now dead?
Someone near me tried that recently and got the fire department called on them because it generated so much smoke.

SiGmA_X
May 3, 2004
SiGmA_X

last laugh posted:

I took out a water feature lat year and am left with a bit of a dirt mound that I want to level off and put down seed -- What would be the best tools for this while being cost efficient?
Rent a tractor of course. Or buy a shovel.

QuarkJets posted:

How long do I have to wait? And what happens?
You want to grind it.

H110Hawk posted:

Well as previously alluded to our washing machine is making scarier and scarier metal-on-metal sounds. Our washer is currently in a turbo dumb spot but isn't really feasible to move it right now. It's in a narrow hallway and the tile work below it is not level by design (the individual tiles aren't flat on top.) I'm presuming this constant balancing act has led to its untimely demise. Overall we loved the washer, it got our clothes clean, wasn't beating them up too badly, and had the little energy star sticker.

It also appears to be a bit of a unicorn in that it's 25.5" deep, 4.1 cu ft capacity, and had a really low profile central agitator thing. Everything I'm seeing now is 27" deep. Is that just how it is? The washing machine is already the narrowest point in the hallway so the extra 1.5" is something we will feel. Anything below 27" is ~2-2.5cuft, literally doubling our laundry cycles.

http://products.geappliances.com/appliance/gea-specs/WPRE6150KWT

Looks like this is the replacement? https://www.pacificsales.com/pdp/GE-5-0-Cu-Ft-13-Cycle-Top-Loading-Washer-White-on-White-Silver/5959508

As for the tile, we hope to replace it Soon(tm) but in the interim I will like putting down a piece of plywood would at least give me a surface it would stay more level on, even if below it is uneven. Is this dumb?
Your existing and replacement washer have leveling feet. Use them.

Hubis
May 18, 2003

Boy, I wish we had one of those doomsday machines...
If it's rotting out in the middle, find an appropriate sized pot/barrel and use it as a planter (or plant in it directly after drilling some drainage holes)

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

SiGmA_X posted:

Your existing and replacement washer have leveling feet. Use them.

Yup. And with the little bit of travel washers do over time it eventually slips up/down the tiles causing it to be subtly out balance. Trying to give myself a fighting chance before we bash up and replace the tile.

sweet_jones
Jan 1, 2007

SiGmA_X posted:


You want to grind it.


Seconding this. I tried the approaches of drilling a bunch of holes and filling with first epsom salt and then secondly this https://www.amazon.com/Bonide-272-1...e+stump+remover

Neither worked, in fact I had shoots coming up after trying the epsom salt method.

SiGmA_X
May 3, 2004
SiGmA_X

H110Hawk posted:

Yup. And with the little bit of travel washers do over time it eventually slips up/down the tiles causing it to be subtly out balance. Trying to give myself a fighting chance before we bash up and replace the tile.
Fair enough. I assumed it would mostly.be fine when you move the washer back in place - my feet don't retract from where they're set, but my floor is also flat.

My washer came with some beefy mounting bolts too, but you'd have to drill your tile and that's always a fun time... I didn't use them, but I have considered it. I would love for the machine to never walk around but moving it back is easy enough. At least my feet don't retract.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

SiGmA_X posted:

Fair enough. I assumed it would mostly.be fine when you move the washer back in place - my feet don't retract from where they're set, but my floor is also flat.

My washer came with some beefy mounting bolts too, but you'd have to drill your tile and that's always a fun time... I didn't use them, but I have considered it. I would love for the machine to never walk around but moving it back is easy enough. At least my feet don't retract.

I'll look at if there is a mounting kit for the new one. Drilling tile is easy compared to getting a new washer and constantly moving it around. Especially since I couldn't give two shits if I damage the tile. I tried a couple of things to keep it from moving, but a tub of water spinning at several hundred RPM finds a way.

The more I think about it the more I want to go rent a jackhammer and just go to loving town. One thing is I've never removed tile over (I presume) wood backer, it's always been poured concrete foundation. How much different is that? I assume there is a pretty big risk of literally punching through or gouging out the wood, which leaves me looking at dirt in our raised foundation house. If I can get down to a clean surface I could tile it in a weekend, most of that time spent cutting edges.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
Disclaimer: I've never removed tile before and don't know what I'm talking about. I don't think you'd want to use a jackhammer to remove tile. Maybe a compressed-air-powered hammer and chisel? Or just a hand-powered hammer and chisel, since you don't have a whole lot of area to cover. Seems like the big problem would be getting all the mastic off or at least flattened. A scraper or belt sander would probably do that job.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

Disclaimer: I've never removed tile before and don't know what I'm talking about. I don't think you'd want to use a jackhammer to remove tile. Maybe a compressed-air-powered hammer and chisel? Or just a hand-powered hammer and chisel, since you don't have a whole lot of area to cover. Seems like the big problem would be getting all the mastic off or at least flattened. A scraper or belt sander would probably do that job.

Yeah I was going to google the correct tool before renting it. :v: Thankfully it is a small space and the bulk of the work will be getting under that first tile. (He says and then laughs sadly in inner monologue knowledge that that is in no way the case.)

When I was doing it on poured foundation it was a lot of using a big floor scraper. But the mastic was, in general, the weaker of the two materials and outside of a few truly stubborn spots it was just a lot of sweat. The stubborn spots started involving a lot of swearing.

https://armorpoxy.com/products/commercial-grade-floor-scraper/

SiGmA_X
May 3, 2004
SiGmA_X
You want a rotohammer! I bought one (used) vs rented when I did some concrete work. It cost me a little more than a 1 day rental and was super handy to have being I needed it up front and then a month plus later after the concrete was cured. Friends and family have borrowed it too, so welllll worth it.

I wonder what the subfloor is going to look like... And what you'll need to do to refinish it for whatever your new flooring will be... Fun times!

A 50S RAYGUN
Aug 22, 2011
is there anything i can do about excessively soft ground in my yard? i cant tell if it's because of the moles - which i'm trying to deal with, but if it's not, the ground in my backyard is excessively soft, and i can barely (carefully) turn my push mower around without tearing up huge divots.

WithoutTheFezOn
Aug 28, 2005
Oh no
Rent a lawn roller?

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

H110Hawk posted:

Yeah I was going to google the correct tool before renting it. :v: Thankfully it is a small space and the bulk of the work will be getting under that first tile. (He says and then laughs sadly in inner monologue knowledge that that is in no way the case.)

When I was doing it on poured foundation it was a lot of using a big floor scraper. But the mastic was, in general, the weaker of the two materials and outside of a few truly stubborn spots it was just a lot of sweat. The stubborn spots started involving a lot of swearing.

https://armorpoxy.com/products/commercial-grade-floor-scraper/

Hammer and a wide bladed chisel should be sufficient. Once you get an edge to work from they should pop up without too much drama. I most recently did a shower and huge pieces came out easy, hopefully the washer has loosened them a bit. I would replace with a quarry tile or something cheap and flat.

LogisticEarth
Mar 28, 2004

Someone once told me, "Time is a flat circle".

A 50S RAYGUN posted:

is there anything i can do about excessively soft ground in my yard? i cant tell if it's because of the moles - which i'm trying to deal with, but if it's not, the ground in my backyard is excessively soft, and i can barely (carefully) turn my push mower around without tearing up huge divots.

That's really weird, unless the ground is quite wet. Do you have drainage issues?

Also, what kind of grass do you have there?

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

StormDrain posted:

Hammer and a wide bladed chisel should be sufficient. Once you get an edge to work from they should pop up without too much drama. I most recently did a shower and huge pieces came out easy, hopefully the washer has loosened them a bit. I would replace with a quarry tile or something cheap and flat.

But I own an air compressor and

My goal is going to be cheap, neutral, and flat. In other words, whatever my wife picks out, hopefully <$2/sqft.

SiGmA_X
May 3, 2004
SiGmA_X

H110Hawk posted:

But I own an air compressor and

My goal is going to be cheap, neutral, and flat. In other words, whatever my wife picks out, hopefully <$2/sqft.
Lowes my in area has various closeouts allll the time. If you need a smaller amount of SF, you often can find some good stuff.

E:

This is the blade/chisel for a rotohammer, but you'll need the $50-150 (I paid $125, *wide* range of prices):
$26 - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Thinset-Removal-Bit-3-in-x-6-5-in-SDS-Plus-Scaling-Chisel-3TRBSPSFC/301949302

Or a manual chisel, should work out pretty well but more efforts, and no extra tools you'll need once in a blue moon (which is a great reason to buy them:grin:)!
$6 - https://www.harborfreight.com/3-inch-big-head-concrete-floor-chisel-6759.html

SiGmA_X fucked around with this message at 01:39 on Jun 12, 2018

Hubis
May 18, 2003

Boy, I wish we had one of those doomsday machines...

A 50S RAYGUN posted:

is there anything i can do about excessively soft ground in my yard? i cant tell if it's because of the moles - which i'm trying to deal with, but if it's not, the ground in my backyard is excessively soft, and i can barely (carefully) turn my push mower around without tearing up huge divots.

if you can, try cutting a slit through the top few inches of turf and pulling it aside where you have a particularly soft area and poke around with a trowel. I had a particularly soft area like that when I poked around I started pulling out sopping wet wood chips on a dry day -- I suspect there used to be a large tree nearby and some trunk/root sections are still rotting out there.

As for what to do about it, you can get some coarse sand ("paver sand", not "play sand") and loosely cast it over the area after you mow. Work it in with a push broom or the back of a rake. You want too lay down a thin layer (like no more than 1/4") and have the grass grow back up through it. It will settle down into low spots with rain/watering. Repeat weekly/as often as you feel like until it feels solid. If it is a rotted area it'll probably keep sinking until it's all done, but that will help you stabilize it as best you can over time.

e: Like this madman
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZiVZYPTSppo

Hubis fucked around with this message at 02:48 on Jun 12, 2018

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

SiGmA_X posted:

Lowes my in area has various closeouts allll the time. If you need a smaller amount of SF, you often can find some good stuff.

E:

This is the blade/chisel for a rotohammer, but you'll need the $50-150 (I paid $125, *wide* range of prices):
$26 - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Thinset-Removal-Bit-3-in-x-6-5-in-SDS-Plus-Scaling-Chisel-3TRBSPSFC/301949302

Or a manual chisel, should work out pretty well but more efforts, and no extra tools you'll need once in a blue moon (which is a great reason to buy them:grin:)!
$6 - https://www.harborfreight.com/3-inch-big-head-concrete-floor-chisel-6759.html

Am I going to hate my life doing ~65sqft (5x13) with something like this and a small air compressor? I have enough hose and fittings to leave the compressor outside and run the hose to the area to be demo'd.

https://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/hammers/medium-barrel-air-impact-hammer-61244.html
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Porter-Cable-6-Gal-150-PSI-Portable-Electric-Pancake-Air-Compressor-C2002/203162815 (I believe this is the exact one I have.)

Edit: That unit claims a Harbor Freight measurement of 4CFM "on avg". Looks like I've got ~8.5 cubic ft of air in the tank @ 150 psi, so at 90 psi regulated output it would "cut-in" at 120PSI, likely keeping downtime to a minimum even though it would take time to recharge. I could always switch to scooping debris.

H110Hawk fucked around with this message at 18:42 on Jun 12, 2018

SiGmA_X
May 3, 2004
SiGmA_X

H110Hawk posted:

Am I going to hate my life doing ~65sqft (5x13) with something like this and a small air compressor? I have enough hose and fittings to leave the compressor outside and run the hose to the area to be demo'd.

https://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/hammers/medium-barrel-air-impact-hammer-61244.html
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Porter-Cable-6-Gal-150-PSI-Portable-Electric-Pancake-Air-Compressor-C2002/203162815 (I believe this is the exact one I have.)

Edit: That unit claims a Harbor Freight measurement of 4CFM "on avg". Looks like I've got ~8.5 cubic ft of air in the tank @ 150 psi, so at 90 psi regulated output it would "cut-in" at 120PSI, likely keeping downtime to a minimum even though it would take time to recharge. I could always switch to scooping debris.
Air hammers do use a fair amount of air, but tile also might not be really secure, it often comes up easier than you'd expect, except when it doesn't. Its very likely you'd be able to do it by hand without a ton of effort like someone posted earlier.

I've never used my generic China airhammer on my tiny home compressor (2-3SCFM@90, much like yours but not a pancake), only on my big 80gal ~13SCFM (IIRC, may be 16...) at my shop.

I'm sure someone up in here will have better input for you. I'm guessing its worth a try.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

Start with a hammer and a crowbar and remove a square foot or two. You could have a 2 hour job potentially, don't worry about figuring out exactly the right power tool until you've found out how firmly the tile is attached first.

You do not for example want to gleefully destroy the floor under the tile because you decided to go at it with a power hammer, when all you needed was to insert crowbar and pry and the tile just pops right off.

Dazerbeams
Jul 8, 2009

Got my sewer line checked since it's been two years since we had it first inspected. There was a ton of root action this time around and the plumber suggested replacing the whole sewer line. UGH. Also had the sump pump checked because I'm interested in having a battery back up. Quoted for over 1k to replace the old sump pump? Gonna shop around and see what others have to offer. Still, this is a better situation that what my friends are dealing with. One couple is stuck in a house that continues to flood periodically. The other is dealing with a leaking second floor bathroom that refuses to be repaired.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

SiGmA_X posted:

Air hammers do use a fair amount of air, but tile also might not be really secure, it often comes up easier than you'd expect, except when it doesn't. Its very likely you'd be able to do it by hand without a ton of effort like someone posted earlier.


Leperflesh posted:

Start with a hammer and a crowbar and remove a square foot or two. You could have a 2 hour job potentially, don't worry about figuring out exactly the right power tool until you've found out how firmly the tile is attached first.

You do not for example want to gleefully destroy the floor under the tile because you decided to go at it with a power hammer, when all you needed was to insert crowbar and pry and the tile just pops right off.

FINE DAD. Jeez.

DR FRASIER KRANG
Feb 4, 2005

"Are you forgetting that just this afternoon I was punched in the face by a turtle now dead?

Dazerbeams posted:

Got my sewer line checked since it's been two years since we had it first inspected. There was a ton of root action this time around and the plumber suggested replacing the whole sewer line. UGH. Also had the sump pump checked because I'm interested in having a battery back up. Quoted for over 1k to replace the old sump pump? Gonna shop around and see what others have to offer. Still, this is a better situation that what my friends are dealing with. One couple is stuck in a house that continues to flood periodically. The other is dealing with a leaking second floor bathroom that refuses to be repaired.

The cool thing about re-piping your side sewer is that they don’t have to dig trenches anymore. They just dig holes at all of the places it turns then use hydraulic pressure to shoot the new pipe through the ground.

The not cool thing is that it still costs like $6-9K

SiGmA_X
May 3, 2004
SiGmA_X

H110Hawk posted:

FINE DAD. Jeez.
Its always good to get your tool out and beat it and see where it takes you.

Sudden Loud Noise
Feb 18, 2007

Awww yeah!

Got our first notice from the HOA because our grass isn't green enough.

Never mind that it's perfectly manicured and healthy, we just don't want to waste water on grass that will miraculously be perfectly green when it rains 2 days from now.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
I suggest paint.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

HOAs don’t trump city ordinances and my city limits the amount of sprinkler/watering time we can use

So that might be an out

brugroffil
Nov 30, 2015


Never do HOA

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

HEY NONG MAN posted:

The cool thing about re-piping your side sewer is that they don’t have to dig trenches anymore. They just dig holes at all of the places it turns then use hydraulic pressure to shoot the new pipe through the ground.

The not cool thing is that it still costs like $6-9K

In my case I figured replacement - even trenchless replacement - would cost at least $8k and probably more. On the other hand, $250 every year or two, to have someone come out and run a heavy duty bladed snake through the line. It'd take over 30 years for the replacement to pay for itself! Then last year I figured out I could rent the drat tool for $80 and do it myself.

Eventually I might have to replace my line, but as long as I can keep it working for a hundred or so annually, replacement makes no sense.

Also, I have heard of (but have no opinion about) this product you can have injected into your line to coat it with anti-root stuff called RootX, I think it has to be professionally done but is another option for serious root intrusion without replacing the line.

DR FRASIER KRANG
Feb 4, 2005

"Are you forgetting that just this afternoon I was punched in the face by a turtle now dead?
In my case the original line was clay pipes that were broken at every turn so it made sense to stop dumping human waste into the ground.

H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

Leperflesh posted:

Also, I have heard of (but have no opinion about) this product you can have injected into your line to coat it with anti-root stuff called RootX, I think it has to be professionally done but is another option for serious root intrusion without replacing the line.

Used this stuff at my condo. Worked well. It is seriously toxic though so be careful. Pretty easy to apply on a short run.

Sobriquet
Jan 15, 2003

we're on an ice cream safari!
I live in an old house, and I know my neighbor (similar house) had his sewer line replaced a few years ago. Is there someone I can call to evaluate and give a trustworthy opinion on the condition of our sewer line? I figure anyone in the business of replacing will recommend just that.

Tiny Timbs
Sep 6, 2008

You can get a home inspector with the right equipment to run a camera down the line and give you a guess.

Make sure to get a copy of the video so you can shop it around for quotes.

Tiny Timbs fucked around with this message at 01:17 on Jun 13, 2018

guaranteed
Nov 24, 2004

Do not take apart gun by yourself, it will cause the trouble and dangerous.

H110Hawk posted:

Well as previously alluded to our washing machine is making scarier and scarier metal-on-metal sounds. Our washer is currently in a turbo dumb spot but isn't really feasible to move it right now. It's in a narrow hallway and the tile work below it is not level by design (the individual tiles aren't flat on top.) I'm presuming this constant balancing act has led to its untimely demise. Overall we loved the washer, it got our clothes clean, wasn't beating them up too badly, and had the little energy star sticker.

It also appears to be a bit of a unicorn in that it's 25.5" deep, 4.1 cu ft capacity, and had a really low profile central agitator thing. Everything I'm seeing now is 27" deep. Is that just how it is? The washing machine is already the narrowest point in the hallway so the extra 1.5" is something we will feel. Anything below 27" is ~2-2.5cuft, literally doubling our laundry cycles.

http://products.geappliances.com/appliance/gea-specs/WPRE6150KWT

Looks like this is the replacement? https://www.pacificsales.com/pdp/GE-5-0-Cu-Ft-13-Cycle-Top-Loading-Washer-White-on-White-Silver/5959508

As for the tile, we hope to replace it Soon(tm) but in the interim I will like putting down a piece of plywood would at least give me a surface it would stay more level on, even if below it is uneven. Is this dumb?

Home Depot shows a couple: https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-2-8-cu-ft-Capacity-Stationary-Washer-with-Stainless-Steel-Basket-GNW128SSMWW/305143823 but they're not cheap, and they're GE, which I'm kind of dubious about, but they would fit, anyway.

Leperflesh
May 17, 2007

GE seems to have cornered the business of oddly-shaped nonstandard width appliances. I needed a fridge 3" narrower than standard, and it turned out my only real choice was GE.

My fridge is fine, btw, but that doesn't mean their washers are good.

Elephanthead
Sep 11, 2008


Toilet Rascal
Most GE stuff is fine, just be prepared to do some easy DIY fixes using internet parts that cost 1/10,000 of what the repair guy wants to charge you. Oh this one sensor that fails and causes your freezer to become a block of ice cost 45 cents, I will change it for $500. It takes 4 minutes of work. I have to order it and will be back in 8 weeks.

Etrips
Nov 9, 2004

Having Teemo Problems?
I Feel Bad For You, Son.
I Got 99 Shrooms
And You Just Hit One.
Are there any good landscaping resources? Thinking of tearing up a major portion of our land (6-8acres) since there is a lot of unevenness to the point where we can't even use our ZTM. We think this was originally a cow pasture that tried to convert to a horse pasture but never really finished.

Sepist
Dec 26, 2005

FUCK BITCHES, ROUTE PACKETS

Gravy Boat 2k
My wife left a steam mop on our hardwood so now I have a steam mop sized white heat stain on the floor. I've tried literally every 'quick' fix but am looking at having to sand and re-stain. There's probably a zero percent chance I will successfully color match it right? The wood stain & seal has been on for a few years.

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H110Hawk
Dec 28, 2006

guaranteed posted:

Home Depot shows a couple: https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-2-8-cu-ft-Capacity-Stationary-Washer-with-Stainless-Steel-Basket-GNW128SSMWW/305143823 but they're not cheap, and they're GE, which I'm kind of dubious about, but they would fit, anyway.

And it's 2.8 cu ft.

We have a GE today. It's been great.

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