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peanut posted:Sound like you just need to host a goonmeet and it'll get done for the cost of parts and a three six-packs. The pyf purchases thread has shown you can get a 30 rack for  careful what you wish for.
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Jun 13, 2018 14:28
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peanut posted:Sound like you just need to host a goonmeet and it'll get done for the cost of parts and a three six-packs. Network setup parties are like modern day barn raisings.
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Jun 13, 2018 15:44
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peanut posted:Is a big stupid antenna tower on the roof an option? Not according to my wife. We get high winds out here too. The main problem with that is, we have a standing-seam metal roof and I'm loathe to bolt anything to it. Even when it's sealed up I'm afraid the sealant would flex and eventually pull up from the roof and let water in somehow. We JUST got a huge leak fixed (not the roof per se) and I don't wanna go through that again. Tomarse posted:A properly configured wireless bridge should be effectively 'invisible' to the devices on either end, so if you get it setup in advance the installers should be able to cope with it. As mentioned, the ubuiquiti stuff is good. Ok, I'm looking more into this today. As to powerline adapters, we already have one set up in the house left over from AT&T doing the initial install of our (768Kbps) internet when we moved here. It was never really any good, although I suspect I'm giving it undue blame that should fall on the fact that our internet didn't even qualify as broadband and we were still paying $35 a month for something we could barely use to check email. Dustoph posted:Do you have a clear line of sight? What about a directional WAP? A clear line of sight from the house to the dock? Yes. A clear line of sight from the house to the radio tower? Nope. The radio dish (it's the size of a dinner plate I think) has to go out onto the dock to be able to see around the tall-rear end trees blocking LOS from the house to the radio tower. That's the only way we could begin to make FWB work and get any internet at all. devicenull posted:Can you run fiber through the conduit with the electrical? I'm not sure on code requirements there, but 1 gigabit fiber gear is pretty cheap these days. You mean fiber to take the place of ethernet? I'm not sure what you're suggesting. I don't know if their equipment is even set up to connect to fiber lines.
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Jun 13, 2018 16:34
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Subjunctive posted:If I have a variable-speed HVAC setup, how invasive is it to get multi-zone set up? There's a pretty big difference between basement and top floor, and I'm thinking about dealing with it. The answer depends entirely on your supply (and somewhat return) ducting setup. If everything is nice a separate right at or near the air handler (it won't be) the worst part of it will be running the wire for a the new zone's thermostat - which could be done with a wireless one. If instead you have one or more supply ducts going to the first floor with one or more of them continuing on to the second with no returns at all on the second floor (much more typical) it's gonna be a pain in the rear end.
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Jun 13, 2018 17:33
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life is killing me posted:You mean fiber to take the place of ethernet? I'm not sure what you're suggesting. I don't know if their equipment is even set up to connect to fiber lines. Fiber is just another media that ethernet can be run over. And you can get media converters for one or both ends that converts it into copper UTP. The biggest benefits of that are lightning protection, followed by ground potential differences when making runs like that (ask me about the time I got electrocuted when the shielding of an STP came off of an 8-floor run when the back of my hand brushed against it).
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Jun 13, 2018 17:36
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life is killing me posted:You mean fiber to take the place of ethernet? I'm not sure what you're suggesting. I don't know if their equipment is even set up to connect to fiber lines. Fiber would be an option, but you'd likely end up spending a good bit more than a simple wireless bridge. Wouldn't really matter if their equipment is set up for fiber, you could use a media converter. You'd need two of them, plus the fiber, and termination equipment. That's also assuming that you could even reasonably fish the fiber through the existing power conduit. https://www.amazon.com/TP-Link-Ethernet-Converter-Multi-Mode-MC200CM/dp/B0034CMZIG/
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Jun 13, 2018 17:36
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Posted this in the wrong thread so I'll just repost here. tl;dr: What material should I use to skim coat plaster walls? Ben Nerevarine posted:Forgive me if this isn't the thread to ask, but I'm redoing a room in my house and I have a question about materials to use for repairing plaster walls.
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Jun 13, 2018 17:48
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Ben Nerevarine posted:Posted this in the wrong thread so I'll just repost here. Having just skim-coated a room for the first time myself, the answer to your quoted question as far as I know is "Yes". I got a few tubs of joint compound and a paint mixer drill attachment (a metal one -- the plastic kind seemed to clog up and quickly become worthless) and watered it down in a separate bucket until it had the rough consistency of mayonaise. Scoop/roll it on and then skim it off. You don't want to use spackling paste of any kind because the vinyl/acrylic won't thin properly. A sanding attachment for a shop vac is also a crucial component to do the final smoothing once you've gotten like 2-3 coats on and everything is dry. And remember that you'll need to prime everything, otherwise the paint will just come right off of the dusty chalky skim coat.
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Jun 13, 2018 17:57
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While we're on plaster chat is therr any way to easily patch plaster cracks? There are some cracks in the plaster behind radiators in the house i bought. You can't see them but i'm sure they're leeching heat and only going to get worse. I'd rather not have to get the radiators disconnected to fix them so even if it's hideous, like some sort of tape, it doesn't matter because the radiators hide it.
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Jun 13, 2018 18:18
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Hubis posted:Having just skim-coated a room for the first time myself, the answer to your quoted question as far as I know is "Yes". I got a few tubs of joint compound and a paint mixer drill attachment (a metal one -- the plastic kind seemed to clog up and quickly become worthless) and watered it down in a separate bucket until it had the rough consistency of mayonaise. Scoop/roll it on and then skim it off. You don't want to use spackling paste of any kind because the vinyl/acrylic won't thin properly. Okay, that makes sense for skimming. How about for filling holes? The damage ranges from paint-level chipping, to deep nail holes, to a 2"x3" hole near the floor. What is the cut-off between when I should use spackling and when I should use joint compound? quote:A sanding attachment for a shop vac is also a crucial component to do the final smoothing once you've gotten like 2-3 coats on and everything is dry. Pro-tip quote:And remember that you'll need to prime everything, otherwise the paint will just come right off of the dusty chalky skim coat. Oh yeah. The old paint is bright blue, practically neon, so I'll need at least a couple coats of primer.
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Jun 13, 2018 19:28
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Ben Nerevarine posted:Okay, that makes sense for skimming. How about for filling holes? The damage ranges from paint-level chipping, to deep nail holes, to a 2"x3" hole near the floor. What is the cut-off between when I should use spackling and when I should use joint compound? Good overview: https://www.familyhandyman.com/drywall/taping/how-to-choose-joint-compound/view-all/ "Setting" compound you mix and apply like cement. It's good for filling in large gaps / building up in depressions. "All Purpose" compound is what you want to do on top of that as your actual skim coat once you have a roughly flat surface that you want to smooth.
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Jun 13, 2018 21:17
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Hubis posted:Good overview: Perfect, thanks!
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Jun 13, 2018 21:44
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jerry seinfel posted:There are some cracks in the plaster behind radiators in the house i bought. You can't see them but i'm sure they're leeching heat and only going to get worse. There is definitely some kind of monster tape that people can wrap around whole cracked foundations. Otoh it might not be something to worry about. How massive are these cracks??
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Jun 13, 2018 23:09
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peanut posted:There is definitely some kind of monster tape that people can wrap around whole cracked foundations. Otoh it might not be something to worry about. How massive are these cracks?? They're not like giant and they line up basically where the radiator fins are so it's probably just from warming and cooling all the time. I should just get a contractor to disconnect the radiators and fill them and do it right
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Jun 13, 2018 23:18
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The electrician was poking around the ceiling earlier and found a spot he was concerned might contain asbestos. Older house so no surprise there. But I went to take a look at the spot after work, and underneath the ceiling tile, between the upstairs and downstairs, are wooden slats over something that has a hard outer shell. I'm thinking the slats are just to hold up the ceiling tile, so maybe it's just a facade over an old plaster ceiling  On the other hand, something tipped off the electrician to make him think asbestos. I didn't get the details from him because I was at work when he called. Any idea what that might be? Was insulation with a hard or plastered shell a thing? e. Some pictures:   I'll keep my fingers crossed that it's just the old ceiling. just another fucked around with this message at 07:26 on Jun 15, 2018 |
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Jun 15, 2018 01:14
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That sounds exactly like the asbestos that was removed from my high school ages ago. Was like a hard brushed on shell that covers the fibers underneath.
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Jun 15, 2018 01:30
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just another posted:The electrician was poking around the ceiling earlier and found a spot he was concerned might contain asbestos. Older house so no surprise there. But I went to take a look at the spot after work, and underneath the ceiling tile, between the upstairs and downstairs, are wooden slats over something that has a hard outer shell. I'm thinking the slats are just to hold up the ceiling tile, so maybe it's just a facade over an old plaster ceiling They put plenty of asbestos in plaster and joint compound, too. If it was an old hand who got a close look, he may have seen something telling. Or was he worried about those ceiling tiles?
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Jun 15, 2018 11:57
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Would need to see a close up shot of the edges to make a better guess.
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Jun 15, 2018 17:32
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I'm onto my next interior walls adventure and all the framing lumber I've got is bent and twisted from sitting in the garage. I'm going to have to order more it's that bad, like 45° twist over 8'
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Jun 16, 2018 16:17
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just another posted:The electrician was poking around the ceiling earlier and found a spot he was concerned might contain asbestos. Older house so no surprise there. But I went to take a look at the spot after work, and underneath the ceiling tile, between the upstairs and downstairs, are wooden slats over something that has a hard outer shell. I'm thinking the slats are just to hold up the ceiling tile, so maybe it's just a facade over an old plaster ceiling If that’s a painted cement board panel above the drop ceiling, then sure it’s very suspect. If not it’s no more suspect than any building material used before 1982 or so. And if it is asbestos and it’s not in some kind of deteriorated state or you have to remove it to do the electrical work, then just leave it there. It’s not radioactive.
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Jun 16, 2018 19:00
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I’m gonna need to learn how to plaster. I don’t want to, but I’m gonna have to.cakesmith handyman posted:I'm onto my next interior walls adventure and all the framing lumber I've got is bent and twisted from sitting in the garage. I'm going to have to order more it's that bad, like 45° twist over 8' I’ve got an awful lot of expensive cladding sat outside right now and I’m very worried about it twisting, some of it already has. Priority for this weekend is to get it inside and airing.
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Jun 16, 2018 19:48
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My God, how did anyone ever demo anything before sawzalls?
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Jun 16, 2018 22:15
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Hubis posted:My God, how did anyone ever demo anything before sawzalls? Adzes work well.
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Jun 16, 2018 22:25
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Speaking of demo, as part of our flooring project I'm pulling up the linoleum in the kitchen. They didn't glue straight to the subfloor fortunately, so there is a 1/4" layer of plywood that will need to come up. Unfortunately, the cabinets were put in on top of the plywood and I don't want to move them so I'll need to cut around. Is there a tool better suited for cutting flush at the base of the cabinets than a Dremel Multi-Max?
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Jun 16, 2018 23:12
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I’m not sure what the multi max version is exactly but my go to would be an oscillating multi tool with a semi circular blade. In other news I was emptying the lint trap on my drier as I always do after it runs and decided to finally open the panel on the front so I could get at the few scraps of lint that I could see had bypassed the filter. I’d been meaning to do this for a while.  Oh what’s this thing? A condenser? Every 30 uses you say? Well I bought it when I moved in 2 years ago and have used it about every 3 days so, how about every 200 uses?  Ergh, can’t imagine why it doesn’t dry as well these days. Cleared all that out by hand, best rinse out the fins.  Blargh
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Jun 16, 2018 23:54
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Hell yeah!!!!!!!
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Jun 17, 2018 01:03
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Jaded Burnout posted:I’m not sure what the multi max version is exactly but my go to would be an oscillating multi tool with a semi circular blade. I... Uhh... BRB 
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Jun 17, 2018 01:55
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I hose ours out in the shower, I found a child's sock in it once.
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Jun 17, 2018 08:11
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cakesmith handyman posted:I hose ours out in the shower, I found a child's sock in it once. Yeah that last photo is a bath not a sink.
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Jun 17, 2018 08:36
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cakesmith handyman posted:I'm onto my next interior walls adventure and all the framing lumber I've got is bent and twisted from sitting in the garage. I'm going to have to order more it's that bad, like 45° twist over 8' how did you have them stored? Laying down or leaning against a wall?
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Jun 18, 2018 16:19
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Laying down on a lumber rack. The problem was more the unheated garage with uncontrolled humidity changes and me leaving them in there for literally months
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Jun 18, 2018 22:16
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With respect to building a french drain, does anything about the procedure or construction change if you're doing in in a crawl space? My crawlspace has a dirt floor, and the house itself is perched on an incline. The southwest corner is the lowest point in the crawlspace and the ground there is muddy with some visible water in maybe a 3'x6' area. You can kind of see where the water is coming from here:  I was thinking of putting in a small french drain that would take the water out of the crawlspace and into the backyard, and then putting a vapor barrier down over what I can get at. Achieving the slope shouldn't be a problem. However, there's also this enormous mound of dirt in the crawlspace:  I'm curious if it's a result of erosion and water seepage in the soil beneath the house because I don't imagine they would have left a big bulge like that when they built the thing. The house itself is sitting on concrete pillars that go down to the bedrock but I don't want to mess with the foundations. There's already a dip in the floor upstairs and I don't know if that means foundation problems or just "100 year old house".
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Jun 19, 2018 17:07
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I can’t say specifically so don’t take this as gospel, but what I do know is that a) foundations aren’t supported by dirt outside of the fact that they’re embedded in it, and b) excavating them produces a lot of dirt, and c) it costs money to remove unwanted things from a building site. So I wouldn’t blink an eye if you told me they’d left it behind during construction
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Jun 19, 2018 17:13
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just another posted:With respect to building a french drain, does anything about the procedure or construction change if you're doing in in a crawl space? I'm by no means a construction expert or civil/soil engineer, BUT: instead of running a french drain from that low point directly out into the back yard you might want to consider digging one or two above that low point and angled kind of perpendicular to the slope (along the contour line) and slightly downhill. This would move moisture in the soil under your house out of the crawl space before it reaches the low point.
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Jun 19, 2018 18:30
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just another posted:With respect to building a french drain, does anything about the procedure or construction change if you're doing in in a crawl space? The joist in your first photo looks like it's fairly wet. Are you sure you don't have a plumbing leak that's causing the mud?
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Jun 20, 2018 17:11
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devicenull posted:The joist in your first photo looks like it's fairly wet. Are you sure you don't have a plumbing leak that's causing the mud? Yeah, you can also see a clear erosion gully right under that joist
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Jun 20, 2018 18:22
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I'll try to snap a better picture tonight, but that's not a joist that's wet. The previous owner had a makeshift shelf or something built in the crawlspace and it's the remains of that. Here's the top of it: And the leaky hole closer up:  It looked like the water was coming out of that hole, not that water was dripping down from above there. That being said, I wouldn't be surprised if there's leaky plumbing somewhere. That's a lot of water coming through there considering we haven't had a heavy rain in a few weeks.
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Jun 20, 2018 19:52
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just another posted:I'll try to snap a better picture tonight, but that's not a joist that's wet. The previous owner had a makeshift shelf or something built in the crawlspace and it's the remains of that. Here's the top of it: I was gonna say, you're gonna have bigger problems if that is a joist, it looked more like a 2x4.
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Jun 20, 2018 20:27
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Went back under. It was some old inconveniently-placed shelf like I remember. I noticed more little water wells today, though. I ventured deeper and found an ancient pipe:  Slowly dripping, but I guess even a slow drip can be a couple gallons a day. I have no idea what it's connected to, though (if anything), because where I found it in the crawlspace is nowhere near the water line into the house, or the sewer pipe. It was crumbling to the touch. just another fucked around with this message at 00:57 on Jun 21, 2018 |
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Jun 21, 2018 00:54
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just another posted:Went back under. It was some old inconveniently-placed shelf like I remember. I noticed more little water wells today, though. Hmm... Do you have central AC? Maybe it's a condensate drain?
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Jun 21, 2018 02:02
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