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Emy posted:I'm extremely new to this, so far all I've painted is a few bones from my Reaper Learn to Paint Kit (this one), but I am under the impression that GW paints are more expensive for no real benefit compared to the other paints mentioned in the thread, like vallejo or reaper. I don't think the quantity really matters unless you're painting a lot of stuff. My paint use has been less than 5 drops per color per model, so the main thing that makes me leery of buying GW paints is actually the pot style bottle (rather than the 12ml size). I feel like the dropper style Reaper bottles have helped me a lot as a newbie, because they help me get more consistent mixes and dilutions. I guess they're also less prone to drying out, but I haven't had them long enough for that to be an issue in any case. Only thing about that set is that the reviews state that there's no red, which I guess isn't a big deal. I also saw this Army Painter - Dungeon Painter set in the related products, and it looks like it's a little bit cheaper, though I don't know what the quality is like. Aniodia posted:I said "nice" because there are different levels of nice. For example, I probably have about $400-$500 (at least) of Warmachine models, and currently about $325 (and growing) of Warmaster models. Thats not counting paint, brushes, tools, and other supplies. Nice for being able to paint and play games, not so much when it comes to saving money and paying bills relatively on time. And I know for a fact what I have is nowhere near the high end of some other people's collections in this thread. If you're not strictly budgeting for gaming stuff, it's very easy to spend way more than you really wanted to. Well, assuming this DLC for Space Marine is an actual canon thing, then purple Space Marines are legit.  I was worried about how craft paints might turn out. I've been looking around to see if stores like Hobby Lobby or Michael's has model paint. Some of them do have acrylic paints for models, but again, I don't know how well it will work. I also don't know if the black paint I get from those or like from the set I posted above works as the primer coat you put on beforehand. On a slightly different topic, is it no longer possible to get models from Warhammer Fantasy? (that is, the original Warhammer Fantasy, before it got rebooted or whatever)
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Jun 15, 2018 22:22
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Some of the Age of Sigmar models are just old Warhammer Fantasy models repackaged with new, copyrightable names and round bases.
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Jun 15, 2018 22:52
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Max Wilco posted:Only thing about that set is that the reviews state that there's no red, which I guess isn't a big deal. I also saw this Army Painter - Dungeon Painter set in the related products, and it looks like it's a little bit cheaper, though I don't know what the quality is like. friend, the emperors children were the 3rd space marine legion and purple is their color in the fluff theres a thousand chapters of space marines, and its not like theyve officially come up with every one of them. but even so, the ones they have are plenty diverse to suit your chromatic needs  also, craft paint is for terrain, not minis
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Jun 15, 2018 23:15
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Kung Fu Fist gently caress posted:friend, the emperors children were the 3rd space marine legion and purple is their color GW doesn't do these big charts of random chapters/factions anymore and thats a bummer. when they put a half page feature in a codex or WD its only like 3 paint schemes
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Jun 15, 2018 23:18
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goodness fucked around with this message at 23:26 on Jun 15, 2018 |
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Jun 15, 2018 23:21
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Booyah- posted:GW doesn't do these big charts of random chapters/factions anymore and thats a bummer. when they put a half page feature in a codex or WD its only like 3 paint schemes And it's all zero-effort "click the fill button" computer art. Also: Im Iron Snakes.
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Jun 15, 2018 23:42
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Kung Fu Fist gently caress posted:friend, the emperors children were the 3rd space marine legion and purple is their color That Imperial castellan's picture is what prompted my paint style for my current models.
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Jun 15, 2018 23:50
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berzerkmonkey posted:It isn't a hassle, and doesn't take long. Plus, it's very satisfying to see all of your GW paint in droppers, properly labeled. Can confirm.
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Jun 15, 2018 23:59
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Deviant posted:Can confirm. Likewise
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Jun 16, 2018 00:56
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Schadenboner posted:And it's all zero-effort "click the fill button" computer art. Can't decide if I'm space sharks or hawklords
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Jun 16, 2018 01:10
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Finished my next Deathwatch!  
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Jun 16, 2018 01:49
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really digging how clean and minimal your edge highlights are. great job
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Jun 16, 2018 01:55
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Kung Fu Fist gently caress posted:friend, the emperors children were the 3rd space marine legion and purple is their color The correct choice is always bottom row, 5th from the right. Howling Griffons Supremacy.
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Jun 16, 2018 02:02
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Summertime is painting time for me! Glad to get back into it with these two Nexu from my Imperial Assault box. Sorastro's guides makes this learning thing pretty easy!!
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Jun 16, 2018 02:15
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Kung Fu Fist gently caress posted:friend, the emperors children were the 3rd space marine legion and purple is their color Great, I've been thinking of how to paint some space marines, this should help. Also, regarding paint. I have had good results using liquitex heavy body artist acrylics. They need thinning, but finding the right consistency is gonna be important no matter what paint you use. I use a dropper bottle with water and a little bit of flow improver and glaze medium.
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Jun 16, 2018 02:31
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Started work on a Manufactory Guild for 40k. Lots of conversions, lots of weirdness. Just finished up the first night of painting for a character and felt like sharing cause I'm super happy with how it's coming out.   IshmaelZarkov fucked around with this message at 11:50 on Jun 16, 2018 |
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Jun 16, 2018 11:47
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What flat/matte sealer does the thread recommend? Edit: Also, who has the best deals on paint? I'm a real big fan of Vallejo Game Air, even though I don't use an airbrush anymore. It's quite thin to start with so doesn't need much if anything mixed in. I can't remember where I bought the stuff before. Of course, if regular Vallejo model paint is half the price of the Game Air, I'm certainly willing to switch. Some kind of set deal would also be great. Admiral Joeslop fucked around with this message at 13:15 on Jun 16, 2018 |
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Jun 16, 2018 13:11
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 Finished Neave Blacktalon this week. A somewhat troubled build seeing as I managed to mount the embled upside down and then the cloak got misaligned to the point the pauldron couldn't fit properly so I just filled in the gaps and found something else that could fit on and cover it all up. The skin took me six attempts to pull off for that part and even then I think I botched the Pallid Wych Flesh layer despite thinning it like crazy. But still like the end result even if the gold ended up a bit too pale and I'm most likely not going to follow the same recipe for any future Stormcast.
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Jun 16, 2018 13:18
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Max Wilco posted:Only thing about that set is that the reviews state that there's no red, which I guess isn't a big deal. I also saw this Army Painter - Dungeon Painter set in the related products, and it looks like it's a little bit cheaper, though I don't know what the quality is like. Army Painter makes decent paint but, aside from AP's washes which are great, I like Reaper paints a bit better. Also note that the mini the AP kit you linked comes with is chibi style which requires a different approach than your typical mini. I would recommend not using craft paints on minis, I've seen people get solid results with them but it's a lot more difficult. I want to say Hobby Lobby carries Vallejo Model Color. Well stocked nerd shops in your areas will probably carry some line of paints, most likely GW. There are quite a few Warhammer Fantasy models that were carried forward into AoS and are part of that range, so you can buy those wherever you can buy AoS. There are also plenty that were discontinued, though.
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Jun 16, 2018 13:49
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Admiral Joeslop posted:What flat/matte sealer does the thread recommend? The only matte spray I trust is Testors. It’s one of the few hobby items they do well. If you can find the Testors Model Master line, all the better. I’ve been even happier since I switched to that formula. It seems to require much less shaking to properly mix before spraying, and requires fewer coats to get good coverage.
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Jun 16, 2018 13:57
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Fyrbrand posted:The only matte spray I trust is Testors. It’s one of the few hobby items they do well. If you can find the Testors Model Master line, all the better. I’ve been even happier since I switched to that formula. It seems to require much less shaking to properly mix before spraying, and requires fewer coats to get good coverage. The Dullcote? https://www.hobbytown.com/spray-3oz-dullcote-by-testors-tes1260t/p272290 This appears to be in stock locally, that's good.
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Jun 16, 2018 14:08
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Quidthulhu posted:Summertime is painting time for me! Glad to get back into it with these two Nexu from my Imperial Assault box. Sorastro's guides makes this learning thing pretty easy!! Sorastro's guides are the reason I (and I suspect a bunch of other folks) paint at all. A bunch of mini companies owe that guy a truckload of cash. I'm glad FFG is paying him now at least. There's no reason to check him out if you know what you're doing but he's amazing for new painters. He sneaks in a lot of good techniques without making a big deal out of them and it makes everything more approachable.
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Jun 16, 2018 14:13
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Admiral Joeslop posted:What flat/matte sealer does the thread recommend? I use Liquitex varnish, but I use an airbrush.
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Jun 16, 2018 14:28
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IshmaelZarkov posted:Started work on a Manufactory Guild for 40k. Lots of conversions, lots of weirdness. Just finished up the first night of painting for a character and felt like sharing cause I'm super happy with how it's coming out. That looks incredibly rad. Expensive conversion though- Morathi and Cawl, right?
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Jun 16, 2018 15:40
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Team_q posted:Can't decide if I'm space sharks or hawklords Split the difference: Sharklords
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Jun 16, 2018 16:58
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Silhouette posted:Split the difference: Sharklords Aww yes, silver and Barney purple.
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Jun 16, 2018 18:49
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Has GW released any fluff about the "Sons of the Phoenix" obviously not being made from Dorn's geneseed, or did they just drop these in without comment?
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Jun 16, 2018 18:55
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DirtyRobot posted:Has GW released any fluff about the "Sons of the Phoenix" obviously not being made from Dorn's geneseed, or did they just drop these in without comment? Not yet, although there are two related things. One is that the "cursed founding" chapters were supposedly founded, in part, from traitor primarch geneseed. (Minotaurs = Angron, Sons of Antaeus = Mortarion). Second is that some of the primaris marines (like Sons of the Phoenix) are from the Horus Heresy and supposedly contain loyalist marines from the traitor legions. This is probably where the Sons of the Phoenix came from. I'm painting my primaris marines as loyalist Thousand Sons. 
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Jun 16, 2018 19:05
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Quick question from a beginner regarding primers. I have a spray can of citadel xandri dust which I believe would be a good colour to base coat my models in however I have read that these citadel colours aren't actually 'primers' exactly and aren't great for use on bare plastic. I've also seen guidance that says I shouldn't fully cover the model in a solid coat which would somewhat defeat the purpose of me spraying in a non white/black/grey colour in the first place. Is any of this correct? As an aside I was also told that citadel white spray isn't very good, any recomendations for the UK?
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Jun 16, 2018 21:15
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Who's ready to finally learn about Alien Sparkleships? Algonquin Tribe Shaltari Took me a while but i finally managed to sit down and hammer out a decent draft for another tutorial. Shaltari are quite a different beast from my main UCM fleet, they’re absolutely loaded with tiny details and they have very strange technology so none of the little bits are readily identifiable as anything familiar. For this scheme i went with comparatively simpler techniques and relied more of the amount of details than fancy execution to get the overall effect. Judging by the reactions they get it works out. Hull: Do Test pieces! The sprues have plenty of extra parts and if you put on too much violet or purple you can’t really lighten it up. First, prime your models black. Metallics usually work best on a black undercoat. It doesn’t really matter if it’s a small rivet or something but if you’re doing a whole mini in metallics there should definitely be black underneath. If you want to go the extra mile you could look into gloss black primer for an even better effect. If you do be sure to send me pictures! Since wasn’t going for maximum shiny i just went with the Vallejo airbrush primer i normally use. Next i sprayed a basic gradient of Gunmetal, Chainmail and Silver, going lighter toward the front.  After that i hit the front with some violet. A light coat will look almost pink, a heavier one will bring out the colour you see below. Definitely do experiment, even the light coat with look great after it gets a little bit of violet.  The final touch on the hulls is the violet. I sprayed it all over but went lighter on the front and heavier on the back. You can reach a very dark colour with two or three coats, use this to build a nice gradient over the whole of the ship. Below you can the comparison before and after the violet, so don’t worry if your ships don’t look great after just the purple.  Overall i went a bit darker than i had originally planned. This helps all the glowy bits stand out more though so all is well. Set your ships aside for a while and let them dry thoroughly, i recommend at least 24 hours. The Golden paints will have a pretty glossy finish so hit your fleet with some satin varnish. This will help you make out details and also protect the purple in case you need to make corrections I also found that the glossiness plays a pretty big role in how the metallic purple comes out. I went with Citadel Munitorum Varnish as that has just the right amount of shine for my taste. You also can’t really do touch-ups on the metallic purple but since the varnish will protect the paint underneath you can clean up small mistakes with a bit of thinner. You can do this before the cores and hit your models with a second coat afterwards or if you’re confident in your cleanliness you can wait until after the cores are done. In any case, once you get to the dots you /will/ appreciate it. Cores: Varnish or no, next up are the cores. Start out with Meridius Blue and try to get a nice even coverage with two or three thin coats. In general you want to avoid too many coats on these parts, even if they are thin ones. Otherwise the paint will build up about the dots on the cores and make them harder to paint neatly afterwards. After you got the basecoat down shade with Coal Black  Highlight by mixing in white and go all the way to pure white. Be sure to let the paint dry thoroughly then give it a thin and even glaze with Turquoise Ink, this will give a nice depth and richness to the colour. Sadly the picture for this step didn’t come out too well but i think you can still tell the difference.  Details: From here on you can do things in any order, i decided to proceed with the dots. I used Schmicke Primacryl Titanium White, it has great coverage and a nice consistency. Thin it down only a little and add some drying retardant. Then take a small brush with a relatively heavy load and carefully dab a bit of white on each dot. You’ll get a feel for the right brush load and thinning pretty quickly and the retardant will help to keep the pain wet on the brush. Don’t worry if you mess up, as long as the paint is relatively fresh you can easily do cleanup with a stiff brush and some Vallejo Airbrush Thinner. As i mentioned before, a coat of varnish really helps to protect the underlying paint. Without it you have to be extremely careful not damage the layers beneath. After the white the dots get a wash of P3 Turquoise Ink, this both gives them a bit of colour and acts as a pin-wash. You can be relatively generous, i think it actually is a nice effect if the turquoise extends outward a bit and adds a little bit of variety to the purple. The picture below shows the difference.  Apart from a million dots a Shaltari ship has a whole bunch of other details. I decided to do these in a gold tone. Nothing fancy here, just a basic gradient of Deathless metal -> Bronze -> Gold at the very tips. Larger parts get a 50/50 mix in between the steps. The weapons got the same treatment as the cores but i skipped the Coal Black as i wanted them to glow more brightly and they didn’t need the “depth” of the cores.  And that’s it, all done! In my opinion Shaltari don’t require super fancy techniques but they strongly reward patience and diligence. Paint List: VGA = Vallejo Game Air VMA = Vallejo Model Air Hull: Prime Black VGA Gunmetal VGA Chainmail VMA Silver Golden Permanent Violet Dark Golden Transparent Dioxazine Purple Cores: P3 Coal Black P3 Meridius Blue P3 Arcane Blue White P3 Turquoise Ink Gold: P3 Deathless Metal Golden Iridescent Bronze Golden Iridescent Gold Dots: White P3 Turquoise Ink Citadel Munitorum Varnish
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Jun 16, 2018 21:50
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Mr Teatime posted:Quick question from a beginner regarding primers. I have a spray can of citadel xandri dust which I believe would be a good colour to base coat my models in however I have read that these citadel colours aren't actually 'primers' exactly and aren't great for use on bare plastic. I've also seen guidance that says I shouldn't fully cover the model in a solid coat which would somewhat defeat the purpose of me spraying in a non white/black/grey colour in the first place. Is any of this correct? As an aside I was also told that citadel white spray isn't very good, any recomendations for the UK? Citadel primers are generally fine, whether or not they're "real primers". There are probably cheaper options for you that are just as effective, at least in black/white/grey. I'm not sure why you wouldn't want to fully cover a model with primer... I wonder if that comment was out of context. Some primers can become slick and glossy if you spray them on really heavily.
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Jun 16, 2018 23:06
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I use gray under my metals but I will definitely try black on my vehicles.
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Jun 16, 2018 23:14
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I've been posting about this in the 40K thread, but I decided to try my hand at 3D printing a laser gun for my Imperial Knight. I have an Anycubic Photon DLP (digital light projection), which works with UV-cured resins. So far the results have been pretty exciting. This is my second iteration after printing and spraying with some primer. No post-processing besides sanding down the nub I used to insert the gun into the shield.   The material also responds really well to sanding, so I suspect that I could get the finish even better using some really high grit wet sanding paper. I will probably do one more iteration to make the interface with the shield better and possibly tweak some details (learning a lot about what works and what doesn't), but I could definitely see this working. The biggest challenge is bleed-through; the process uses light to cure each layer and if you're not careful you can over-expose the image and cause the layers to blur. I think that's what happened a bit with the backs of the large rivets near the base of the gun.
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Jun 16, 2018 23:19
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:I've been posting about this in the 40K thread, but I decided to try my hand at 3D printing a laser gun for my Imperial Knight. I have an Anycubic Photon DLP (digital light projection), which works with UV-cured resins. So far the results have been pretty exciting. This is my second iteration after printing and spraying with some primer. No post-processing besides sanding down the nub I used to insert the gun into the shield. Resin printing poo poo like this is legit, glad you jumped on it so I can avoid throwing 5k at something like this too see if it's viable. Looks real freaking good. You should definitely get a little business going for local game shops etc
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Jun 17, 2018 00:00
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Okay, been painting for about a month. This is my 5th painted figure, and its finally starting to not be embarrassingly bad. I think I need to find a way to prop them up and hold them still, because holding with one hand and painting with the other leads to extra shakes. 
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Jun 17, 2018 00:14
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Get yourself a small lazy Susan and plop some tacky putty in the middle, then put the model on the putty. Make sure you have a way to lock the Susan in place. Or, get an old medicine bottle or similar and do the same thing with the putty. Much easier to hold than trying to hold the model itself.
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Jun 17, 2018 00:44
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Bistromatic posted:Who's ready to finally learn about Alien Sparkleships? good lord this is loving awesome
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Jun 17, 2018 00:46
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:I've been posting about this in the 40K thread, but I decided to try my hand at 3D printing a laser gun for my Imperial Knight. I have an Anycubic Photon DLP (digital light projection), which works with UV-cured resins. So far the results have been pretty exciting. This is my second iteration after printing and spraying with some primer. No post-processing besides sanding down the nub I used to insert the gun into the shield. That's pretty bad rear end, did you sculpt it yourself?
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Jun 17, 2018 00:47
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Booyah- posted:That's pretty bad rear end, did you sculpt it yourself? Yeah.
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Jun 17, 2018 00:56
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thats impressive! i'd like to try my hand at it but I have no experience 3d sculpting
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Jun 17, 2018 01:15
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