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The Objet will be the sharpest by an order of magnitude. I googled "6mm miniature" and those are little dudes that are a quarter-inch tall? There's no chance of you getting the resolution you're looking for on anything but the Objet or an SLA machine.
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Jun 15, 2018 01:45
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Also, acetone will do absolute jack poo poo for smoothing PLA prints.
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Jun 15, 2018 01:51
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Dang, that is an amazing price to use the Objet. Definitely take advantage of that (unless it's a school printer or something that frowns on printing warhams).
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Jun 15, 2018 02:51
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goodness posted:I want to print some buildings (for 6mm miniatures) and some warhammer sized figures , and have access to a few different setups: With an Objet30, you can get some very nice detail at those sizes but you'll have to do some experimenting to achieve a balance between looks and durability. When I was working at a service bureau we would constantly have to tell people to thicken their walls. Also, if you can verify that who you're printing with is using the newer soluble support material you may have better luck. Before 2017, all of the support material on those polyjet printers was blasted away with a waterjet or delicately hand-scraped and it was not amazing at all for tiny bits randomly sticking out. (check out near the end of https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tiw7OrFaG5A ) Edit: To give you an idea, here's a little test print from a few years ago, about 50mm long and 35mm tall printed in TangoBlack+ on a similar device (Objet Connex 500) 
Snackmar fucked around with this message at 03:26 on Jun 15, 2018 |
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Jun 15, 2018 03:20
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Gotta love it when you are 14 hours into a print and realize you should have rotated the model a different way to speed the printing up.
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Jun 15, 2018 04:17
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Sagebrush posted:The Objet will be the sharpest by an order of magnitude. I googled "6mm miniature" and those are little dudes that are a quarter-inch tall? There's no chance of you getting the resolution you're looking for on anything but the Objet or an SLA machine. I may have been confusing, for the 6mm dudes I'm not printing them but buildings for terrain use. I'd have most access on the lulzbots as we have like 15 of them. If I can get enough time to fiddle with the Objet that seems the way to go. One of the pieces I wanted to do was this for 6mm gaming, so the building itself would be ~4-5 inches long? 
goodness fucked around with this message at 04:37 on Jun 15, 2018 |
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Jun 15, 2018 04:34
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Yeah, all those little spires and buttresses and things will never come out on an FDM machine at that scale. An Objet or SLA (similar technology) will be able to do it, but you still might not get the detail you're looking for. That's a rather challenging print. I mean if that's only about 4" long that's cheap to print on an FDM machine so maybe find one that can do 0.05mm layers and give it a shot? The overhangs don't look too bad and the most difficult parts are the spires, which if they fail, well, you can probably make new ones out of sheet styrene or something. Worst case it'll just be blobby and wonky in the details, best case you save a ton of money because that thing will probably cost you like $100 on an Objet given the prices you're talking about.
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Jun 15, 2018 04:42
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Well, I found that model (first result on Thingiverse for "cathedral"). As crazy as it looks, I think it might actually work... but it was designed to be like 10 inches long, so scaling it down causes a bunch of thin sections to disappear when sliced. I'm gonna try beefing up the model and printing it, because it looks awesome.
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Jun 15, 2018 06:05
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BMan posted:Well, I found that model (first result on Thingiverse for "cathedral"). As crazy as it looks, I think it might actually work... but it was designed to be like 10 inches long, so scaling it down causes a bunch of thin sections to disappear when sliced. I'm gonna try beefing up the model and printing it, because it looks awesome. I'd love to see how it turns out!
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Jun 15, 2018 06:09
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Gotta love it when you are 14 hours into a print and realize you should have rotated the model a different way to speed the printing up. This is a habit for me now. Especially in models that require a lot of support structure. Rotate it every which way and see how long the slicer thinks the print will take.
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Jun 15, 2018 12:04
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I thought I was printing a cathedral. I was actually printing the mother of all stringing tests:
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Jun 16, 2018 01:32
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Perfect for your drow-based RPG setting!
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Jun 16, 2018 01:38
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BMan posted:I thought I was printing a cathedral. I was actually printing the mother of all stringing tests: That was fast! And it looks pretty good besides the strings. How easy is that to clean and how big is it?
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Jun 16, 2018 01:54
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I just got a spool of PETG and drat it's good stuff. I've been printing off pieces of my Hypercube to install when they eventually break. Been slowly tweaking settings and got my retraction nearly dialed in. I've been poached by an interior design group who want a a 3d printer onboard, I need to get my printer a touch more reliable before I get serious but it's good news. In being given some test prints that they want to use to test my abilities so im excited as hell to potentially make real money from my efforts
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Jun 16, 2018 01:58
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Jestery posted:I just got a spool of PETG and drat it's good stuff. Any recommendations on PETG brands? Or are they all pretty much the same?
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Jun 16, 2018 02:27
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BMan posted:I thought I was printing a cathedral. I was actually printing the mother of all stringing tests: It’s beautiful just like that
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Jun 16, 2018 02:27
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Great Beer posted:Any recommendations on PETG brands? Or are they all pretty much the same? I got esun and it just works. It's my first spool of PETG so I can't speak on quality ,but in definitely keeping a spool on hand so I can print off my good PLA creations
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Jun 16, 2018 02:58
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csammis posted:Perfect for your drow-based RPG setting!  Glad I’m not the only turbo nerd whose mind immediately went here
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Jun 16, 2018 04:09
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goodness posted:That was fast! And it looks pretty good besides the strings. How easy is that to clean and how big is it? It's 135mm long, which is half the size of the original model. Weight 58 grams. I burned most of it off with a lighter, but there's still a bunch of "stubble" everywhere that I can't really remove. Here it is on thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2963455 I'm trying another one now with ASA, which is the least stringy filament I own. Snowy posted:It’s beautiful just like that Sorry, I already torched it 
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Jun 16, 2018 05:00
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Forgive the burst posts, I just blown away by the quality I am getting out of my machine. I just cant wait to have chunks of time to fiddle with the settings nice and proper and get these zits out of my face 
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Jun 16, 2018 05:58
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The only way I can get PETG to reliably stick to my PEI is if I let it stick too well and ruin the sheet. There's one particular spot, where air circulates by my desk, where the corners will always pull up even with a brim. I guess it's time to hurry up and build an enclosure.
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Jun 16, 2018 06:08
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I need some feedback. I have a wanhao i3 and I've started to have it jam up halfway through a print. Once it happens I basically have to cut the filament off, open it up and manually push the clog out with a wire or drill bit. I've tried cleaning the nozzle with the .4mm drill bit and also a guitar string. I've also increased the temperature to 220 (pla) to try and rule that out. Then I bought a brand new spool wondering if the relative age of the pla I had (about 10 months old) had absorbed too much moisture or something, but the same thing happens with the brand new one. I dunno if it could be a feeding issue? I don't have and tangles in the spool. But other than that print quality is good so not sure. Any advice? E: I haven't tried actually removing the nozzle to clean it. itskage fucked around with this message at 15:31 on Jun 16, 2018 |
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Jun 16, 2018 15:22
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A hail Mary is to remove your nozzle and blast it with a jet lighter for about 4 minutes till it's red hot. That should vapouriser anything stuck in there
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Jun 16, 2018 15:42
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I tried torching a nozzle once and all it did was give me caked on burnt residue that was impossible to remove. Has anyone actually done it successfully?
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Jun 16, 2018 18:17
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Brass 0.4mm nozzles are so cheap that I don't know why you'd bother trying to clear a serious jam, unless it was your last nozzle.
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Jun 16, 2018 18:21
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BMan posted:I thought I was printing a cathedral. I was actually printing the mother of all stringing tests: Here’s an example of what’s possible with a .25mm nozzle (If I can get file attachments to work)
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Jun 16, 2018 18:46
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cephalopods posted:Brass 0.4mm nozzles are so cheap that I don't know why you'd bother trying to clear a serious jam, unless it was your last nozzle. Holy crap yeah. I think I'll just order this: https://www.amazon.com/CCTREE-Extru...rds=mk10+nozzle And then I'll have some more sizes to play with as well.
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Jun 16, 2018 19:20
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ASA print of cathedral. Very little stringing, just a bit of warping because I forgot to turn brim on. I'm quite pleased with this.   
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Jun 16, 2018 20:14
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cephalopods posted:Brass 0.4mm nozzles are so cheap that I don't know why you'd bother trying to clear a serious jam, unless it was your last nozzle. Yep. In the distant past I've attempted to clean nozzles with solvents, with wires, with heat, whatever, and it never works properly and is never worth it. If running a 0.4mm wire or guitar string through it for a few seconds doesn't remove the clog, just replace the whole thing. It's a consumable part.
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Jun 16, 2018 21:57
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Buy some extra nozzles from Amazon so you'll have them quick, and then buy a bunch more from Aliexpress for 11 cents each. I've got more 0.4 and 0.6 nozzles kicking around here now than I'll probably ever use in my remaining lifetime.
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Jun 16, 2018 22:02
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Spent a bit of time doing a bit more modifications and calibrations to my MP Mini Select. I added new belt tensioners, rewired the bed, and calibrated the extrusion. Turns out I was underextruding by quite a bit which was unexpected since I'm getting a lot of z banding still. I need to do a little bit more testing on the extrusion multiplier (flow) and temperature, are there any recommended good and quick tests for those? Here's my current progress of a full scale Benchy if anyone would like to provide any feedback:  
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Jun 16, 2018 23:23
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That Gobbo posted:Spent a bit of time doing a bit more modifications and calibrations to my MP Mini Select. I added new belt tensioners, rewired the bed, and calibrated the extrusion. Turns out I was underextruding by quite a bit which was unexpected since I'm getting a lot of z banding still. I need to do a little bit more testing on the extrusion multiplier (flow) and temperature, are there any recommended good and quick tests for those? There's a lot of guides online for print quality issues. I've had good luck narrowing some stuff down with: https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/ Your problem looks like it fits in the Blobs and Zits category which they suggest is mostly due to retraction issues. There's some more detailed suggestions there and other things you can check as well. Of course a lot of their specific advice is simplify3d specific, but you can usually figure out solutions that fit with whatever slicer you're using.
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Jun 17, 2018 01:22
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Thanks! I'll look at doing some retraction tests. Today I'm having a problem getting my first layer down properly and I can't seem to figure it out. It's having issues printing the first layer and will just leave a little bit of PLA residue on the bed and the extruder will make clicking sounds as if it can't push any more filament. It works fine on upper layers though. The hot end doesn't seem clogged, the bed is leveled fine, and I haven't changed any of my slicer settings. Manually extruding at the home position works totally fine. I left a rather long print run overnight last night for context. Anyone have any ideas? 
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Jun 17, 2018 17:55
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Have you checked the arm on the extruder yet? I’m assuming it hasn’t been replaced but I had mine crack recently and had odd behavior like that. I replaced it with one of the metal setups and haven’t had any problems since.
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Jun 17, 2018 18:01
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I checked all around the extruder with a flashlight and I can't seem to see anything like a crack, extruder arm seems fine and not any different from before today. I'll try printing a replacement and maybe buy a metal one if that's the issue. Beforehand I had heard that 3D printing was a lot of calibrating and fixing issues but I didn't quite anticipate this much.
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Jun 17, 2018 18:22
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That Gobbo posted:Thanks! I'll look at doing some retraction tests. edit: I would try re-leveling the bed, and also open up the extruder and check that the filament drive gear hasn't ground a section of the filament to a thin slice that the idler can't take up slack for anymore. peepsalot fucked around with this message at 18:26 on Jun 17, 2018 |
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Jun 17, 2018 18:23
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Ah you're totally right, the bed was too close. I feel dumb now. Thank you for the help!
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Jun 17, 2018 18:58
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My nozzles should be here tomorrow. I pulled the old one out and it has some black stuff in the bottom, but I'm actually looking at my PTFE tube. It looks like it was seamed or something from two pieces. There is a distinct line on it and a bit of a buldge and yeah there's black filament inside it. So looking on Amazon for a replacement, is there anything else I should grab while I'm at it. I see there's all metal hot end kits: https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Hotend...1PZ70Y5DCCAB2HC I guess to let you run hotter temps and less wear and tear over the PTFE? Silicone socks for the heater block... https://www.amazon.com/Silicone-Wan...FGEC47WA8GQWH9B I guess they last longer than that stock ones that may need changed after prolonged use? (mine looks a little rough after one of those "print went wrong overnight" events). Then the borosilicate glass kit: https://www.amazon.com/Gulfcoast-Ro...FGEC47WA8GQWH9B Which from what I've heard all over the place (and in this thread in the past) is that printing on glass is amazing. But I haven't really haven't felt the need to go there since I dialed in leveling and getting that initial squish. I did replace the mat recently as I accidentally sliced into it taking a print off awhile ago. They gave me two when I bought it so the 2nd one is in pretty good shape. Though that glass is only $25 now and it's cut to fit.. So yeah is any of that stuff good, or snake oil, or simply situational? Is there anything else I should consider while I'm at it?
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Jun 18, 2018 01:39
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What's the future of printers like in the consumer market? Like, 1 year, 5 years, 10 years? Edit: for more context, I know very little about 3D printers and their history. Like, are they gonna get higher-res so prints look smoother and more detailed? Different and better materials? Will some process become more popular than squirting melted plastic? Will they get faster? Cheaper? Will the market get bigger or smaller? I've never bought one because I can hardly ever think of anything that I actually need or want to print. Once in awhile I have an idea for something that might be useful, but it's so rarely that I haven't been able to justify spending the time. frunksock fucked around with this message at 09:11 on Jun 18, 2018 |
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Jun 18, 2018 08:56
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frunksock posted:What's the future of printers like in the consumer market? Like, 1 year, 5 years, 10 years? Honestly they seem to be hitting the ceiling in terms of quality with fdm machines, FDM will always have its place as it is extremely versatile. Honestly the future of consumer grade printers doesn't seem to much different to now. Likely the breakthrough will be software side and will centre around ease of use. Because loving about with settings is the biggest hurdle for users In sure someone else has different opines but those are mine
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Jun 18, 2018 09:43
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