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Ghetto SuperCzar posted:Okay, been painting for about a month. This is my 5th painted figure, and its finally starting to not be embarrassingly bad. I think I need to find a way to prop them up and hold them still, because holding with one hand and painting with the other leads to extra shakes. If you're having problems with shaky hands, hold the mini in one hand and then brace your painting hand against the holding hand. Inside wrist to inside wrist works for me. Your hands may still shake but they'll be braced together so the brush and the mini will shake together and you'll be able to paint as if you have nerves of steel.
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Jun 17, 2018 06:02
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The Moon Monster posted:Army Painter makes decent paint but, aside from AP's washes which are great, I like Reaper paints a bit better. Also note that the mini the AP kit you linked comes with is chibi style which requires a different approach than your typical mini. It looks like Hobby Lobby does have Vallejo (at least from the google search I did, since Firefox tells me the site's not secure). I was hanging out with my dad for Father's Day, and we went to HobbyTown, and they had a whole assortment of Vallejo paints (they also had a couple of old jars of Citadel gloss as well). I was also surprised to see that had a whole assortment of Gundam models (though that's another topic for another thread). We also checked out Games Workshop, and it was...interesting. It was just a little awkward when we first walked in, since everyone in there was in the middle of a game, and we just kind of looked around the store while everyone else was huddled around the tables. That's not to say that it was an unpleasant experience; there wasn't any kind grognerd.txt stuff going on, and the manager was pretty nice. I asked him about the paint tutorial, and the store manager said that he doesn't schedule it, but if I came in at an appropriate time during normal business hours for a tutorial. He said, though, that I couldn't bring in anything that wasn't GW stuff (had to be Citadel paints and models). The highlight was that in response, my dad joked about not being able to bring in Testors paint, and the manager jokingly said, "If you did that, I might have to throw you out of the store." I ended up not buying any paint at either place, but I did buy a Getting Started with Warhammer 40K book for $8 that came with a sample space marine.  Maybe I wasn't paying close attention to the ones that they had displayed in the store, but it seems a lot smaller than one's I've seen painted in videos.
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Jun 17, 2018 07:05
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Max Wilco posted:It looks like Hobby Lobby does have Vallejo (at least from the google search I did, since Firefox tells me the site's not secure). I was hanging out with my dad for Father's Day, and we went to HobbyTown, and they had a whole assortment of Vallejo paints (they also had a couple of old jars of Citadel gloss as well). I was also surprised to see that had a whole assortment of Gundam models (though that's another topic for another thread). It's the same size. What color power armor are you thinking?
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Jun 17, 2018 07:07
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Max Wilco posted:Maybe I wasn't paying close attention to the ones that they had displayed in the store, but it seems a lot smaller than one's I've seen painted in videos. They zoom in all the way in videos, that threw me off as well.
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Jun 17, 2018 07:15
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Ghetto SuperCzar posted:Okay, been painting for about a month. This is my 5th painted figure, and its finally starting to not be embarrassingly bad. I think I need to find a way to prop them up and hold them still, because holding with one hand and painting with the other leads to extra shakes. I highly recommend Fredericus Rex's magnetic/sticky holder combo. It's a nicely shaped piece of wood that sits comfortably in the hand with either a neodymium top or a soft top for pinning, and there's a seperate little stand you can pick up. It's a little pricey compared to the pill bottle option but it's quite nice to use. Doubly so for smaller minis like the One True Scale of 1/72. EDIT: Holy poo poo, GW plastics are blue now? Loomer fucked around with this message at 08:20 on Jun 17, 2018 |
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Jun 17, 2018 08:18
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Loomer posted:I highly recommend Fredericus Rex's magnetic/sticky holder combo. It's a nicely shaped piece of wood that sits comfortably in the hand with either a neodymium top or a soft top for pinning, and there's a seperate little stand you can pick up. It's a little pricey compared to the pill bottle option but it's quite nice to use. Doubly so for smaller minis like the One True Scale of 1/72. They do different colors for the easy-to-assemble kits
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Jun 17, 2018 08:35
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Next thing you know they'll be turning them into 1/72.
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Jun 17, 2018 08:46
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Max Wilco posted:The highlight was that in response, my dad joked about not being able to bring in Testors paint, and the manager jokingly said, "If you did that, I might have to throw you out of the store." Well if you were trying to use Testors paint on a space marine or something he'd be doing you a favor 
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Jun 17, 2018 12:12
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Pendent posted:That looks incredibly rad. Expensive conversion though- Morathi and Cawl, right? Sure is! I had a Cawl left over from the Triumvirate box and once I saw Morathi, I knew what I needed to do. Turns out the waist joints are almost the exact size.
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Jun 17, 2018 13:03
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Got these shiny lads finished today. Painting them was good fun, but I think my idea of hell is now just posing resin contemptor arms forever.     Don't talk to me or my son etc etc: 
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Jun 17, 2018 16:27
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IshmaelZarkov posted:Sure is! Can I use your leftovers to build a Mechanicus mermaid?
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Jun 17, 2018 18:13
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The Moon Monster posted:GW's "Start Collecting" boxes are a massive discount compared to their typical pricing, and they have one for almost all major factions so the Start Collecting Space Marines (or Blood Angels, or Space Wolves, or etc) are a good way to go if you just want some to paint up. I don't think $100 will get you anywhere close to an "Army" for any of the major wargames unless you're counting skirmish games, though. PSC can easily sell you an army for under £100, which is a bit more than $100 granted. You can probably get a decent sized BA army for $100. Historicals are far cheaper than almost any game tied to an IP.
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Jun 17, 2018 21:49
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The Moon Monster posted:Well if you were trying to use Testors paint on a space marine or something he'd be doing you a favor I started playing this stupid game back before the internet was really a thing and the first models I tried to paint were with testors. Wolves with SWG, the testors starter set, kmart plastic bristle brushes, and of course no primer on bare metal/plastic. I think I had black ink too.
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Jun 17, 2018 22:04
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Super pleased with the final print!   The images above have been hit with gray primer. As built they're a white plastic.  Definitely learned a lot and I think this will be a great source of parts for Orks when I get back into them after NOVA. Overall the whole thing is just really awesome to work with, and I'm really pleased with the part quality.
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Jun 17, 2018 22:12
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Max Wilco posted:It looks like Hobby Lobby does have Vallejo (at least from the google search I did, since Firefox tells me the site's not secure). I was hanging out with my dad for Father's Day, and we went to HobbyTown, and they had a whole assortment of Vallejo paints (they also had a couple of old jars of Citadel gloss as well). I was also surprised to see that had a whole assortment of Gundam models (though that's another topic for another thread). Painting miniatures does weird things to their apparent size, because when we look at something and our brain goes "Oh, it's about yay big," we do that by interpreting visual cues like density of detail and highlight and shadow intensity... which are all the things that miniature painting has developed to fake. Miniature painting is all about faking highlights and shadows and adding detail density that's at scale to the mini. And this means e.g. an unpainted Primaris mini, like the one you just got, looks like a tiny little trivial nothing of cheap plastic, and the same mini, painted to the level of quality you see in YouTube paint tutorials, registers to your brain as... a category error, basically. Because your brain is taking all the contextual visual cues like "It's X percentage smaller than the lamp it's sitting next to" and comparing them to all the light-and-shadow based visual cues, and feeding you back "Christ, man, I dunno." So, yes, they really are that small.
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Jun 17, 2018 22:12
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Super pleased with the final print! What machine are you using again?
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Jun 17, 2018 22:21
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Stephenls posted:What machine are you using again? Anycubic Photon.
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Jun 17, 2018 22:38
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As someone whose painted a million marines primaris models look loving huge.
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Jun 17, 2018 22:48
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Eifert Posting posted:As someone whose painted a million marines primaris models look loving huge. I was laughing about this too because the new Space Marines are definitely bigger than the old ones in a significant way. I painted a set of tiny Space Marines and I'm excited to have a larger area to work with on the new ones now
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Jun 17, 2018 22:55
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Shadespire rats done, dwarves coming up
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Jun 17, 2018 23:22
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Eifert Posting posted:As someone whose painted a million marines primaris models look loving huge. Yeah but think about it from the perspective of someone entirely new to mini painting. Those things do not look very big sitting assembled and unpainted on a table.
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Jun 18, 2018 01:25
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Here is my first oiled-up gladiator man.
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Jun 18, 2018 01:30
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Anycubic Photon. What are the material costs like? It looks good for both terrain and bits if it isn’t too much.
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Jun 18, 2018 01:41
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The Moon Monster posted:Well if you were trying to use Testors paint on a space marine or something he'd be doing you a favor Yeah, the manager explained that it wouldn't work, since it's enamel paint. Pand posted:They zoom in all the way in videos, that threw me off as well. Yeah, it makes them look like an inch or so larger than they actually are. I figured bits like the eye and skull-&-wings would be difficult to paint, but it seems like you need a sewing needle for the smaller features. Booyah- posted:It's the same size. What color power armor are you thinking? I dunno, yet. Like I said, I haven't bought any paint yet, so it's sort of dependent on what I end up buying. I was looking through the big image of all the different marine color schemes, to try and get some ideas. Chances are, though, I'll just stick to the standard Ultramarine blue-&-gold scheme. I do realize now that I don't have any transfers, so the pauldrons won't have any decoration.  I also got the Chaos Space Marines I ordered today, and I'm not sure how I want to paint those either. Loomer posted:EDIT: Actually, I wanted to ask about that, because I'm a little confused about that. In the video I saw on painting them, the plastic was grey, with black primer and blue paint. The plastics for mine is blue, but the book I got with it show painting it blue over a black basecoat. So am I supposed to paint it black, then paint it blue, or just paint it blue as a base paint?
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Jun 18, 2018 01:49
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Max Wilco posted:Yeah, the manager explained that it wouldn't work, since it's enamel paint. You use what’s called a primer on it before you paint. The primer can be black or white or grey or a ton of different colors. GW sells it in spray cans, I would recommend ordering Vallejo primer and just brushing it in for your first models. Edit: oh, duh, you know what a primer is. But yeah primer then base coat or you’ll have trouble with the paint falling off.
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Jun 18, 2018 01:54
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Completed my Obliterator conversions.     Also got a lightbox pic of 'Taker. 
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Jun 18, 2018 02:01
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long-rear end nips Diane posted:What are the material costs like? It looks good for both terrain and bits if it isn’t too much. $50 for a 500g bottle. It's basically a net-shape process so the only material you waste is stuff that's stuck to the part when you rinse. It seems very inexpensive for what I can do with it.
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Jun 18, 2018 02:24
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long-rear end nips Diane posted:You use what’s called a primer on it before you paint. The primer can be black or white or grey or a ton of different colors. GW sells it in spray cans, I would recommend ordering Vallejo primer and just brushing it in for your first models. It's just a little confusing, since you would normally paint the marine blue, but the plastic itself is already blue. On top of that, the book shows you can also do an undercoating of blue (I guess for a overall lighter color than black undercoating). In that example, would I just do two coats of blue paint? The book says that the blue undercoating was done with spray-paint, so maybe you have to stick with black if doing it by hand. I also forgot to link the video I was referring to: How to paint a Space Marine - Starter Painting Guide Quick question: is Citadel the only place you can get technical paints, or do others companies do it as well?
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Jun 18, 2018 02:40
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Max Wilco posted:It's just a little confusing, since you would normally paint the marine blue, but the plastic itself is already blue. On top of that, the book shows you can also do an undercoating of blue (I guess for a overall lighter color than black undercoating). In that example, would I just do two coats of blue paint? The book says that the blue undercoating was done with spray-paint, so maybe you have to stick with black if doing it by hand. The plastic is already blue because GW started using colored plastic for a few of their push fit kits so that people buying starters could start gaming with models that were a different color for each side immediately. You can ignore the blue color and treat it the same as a grey plastic model. If you're not using spraypaint for anything, you'll need to use whatever color of brush on primer you want. GW doesn't make a good one, but vallejo primers come in black, grey, or white. You'd then paint blue over it. If you're using spraypaint, you can just start with the blue spray. I don't know if it's technically a primer, but it works well enough as one.
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Jun 18, 2018 02:58
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Max Wilco posted:It's just a little confusing, since you would normally paint the marine blue, but the plastic itself is already blue. On top of that, the book shows you can also do an undercoating of blue (I guess for a overall lighter color than black undercoating). In that example, would I just do two coats of blue paint? The book says that the blue undercoating was done with spray-paint, so maybe you have to stick with black if doing it by hand. Booley posted:The plastic is already blue because GW started using colored plastic for a few of their push fit kits so that people buying starters could start gaming with models that were a different color for each side immediately. You can ignore the blue color and treat it the same as a grey plastic model. What Booley just said. Games Workshop releases Easy-to-build Primaris kits in blue and Easy-to-build Death Guard kits in green so people who want to jump in and start playing can buy something like the First Strike or No Know Fear boxes, get two differently-colored armies right out of of the box, and put them together and play with them. And then they can expand those armies with more Easy-to-build units like the Redemptor Dreadnought and Myphitic Blight-hauler. They did the same thing with some of the starter sets for Age of Sigmar last edition, I believe using yellow plastic for the Stormcast and red for the Chaos barbarian guys. (It's honestly kinda weird the Dark Imperium and Soul Wars boxes has grey plastic instead -- I don't think there's any crossover between factions on specific sprues. Maybe there's some inobvious bottleneck on colored plastic production that makes it impractical to deploy on the scale of those kits.) In any case, they didn't do it to ease painting, and if you want to paint, your best bet is to ignore that the plastic is blue and treat it like anything else -- prime, either with a rattlecan or some brush-on primer from a non-Citadel company, then basecoat. Painting blue plastic black and then painting blue over it feels silly, but you'll never get a paint that perfectly matches the plastic's shade of blue exactly, and if you're new to painting and using blue and another color, you will need to touch up non-blue splodges on bits of the mini that are supposed to be blue, and you'll need those touch-ups to match the rest of the blue surface, so it's not something you can get around. Black vs blue primer is a whole other question; there's reasons to use one or the other. Black primer ensures that if you miss the hard-to-get-into crevices, it'll probably just read as shadows; blue primer saves you a step but might make cleanup of splodges harder -- and, yeah, blue primer means the blue paint will read as slightly lighter if you go over the blue primer with blue paint. And then there's something like Army Painter's color-match guarantee, where they sell a range of primer colors they guarantee as 100% color matching their regular paints, so you really can just spray forty guys blue and then paint in details and not worry about your touch-up blue not quite matching with your primer/basecoat blue. Max Wilco posted:I also forgot to link the video I was referring to: How to paint a Space Marine - Starter Painting Guide That video is pretty old; they don't sell Imperial Primer -- or any other brush-on primer option -- anymore, I don't think. Max Wilco posted:Quick question: is Citadel the only place you can get technical paints, or do others companies do it as well? Other companies make paints that are similar. For example, Vallejo sells a Special Effects Set with a thin white, a verdigris that's similar to Nihilak Oxide, a vomit that's similar to Nurgle's Rot, a rust similar to Ryza Rust, I'm not sure whether the dry rust is just a color or actually mimics the wash-with-grit-in-it texture of Typhus Corrosion, as well as two different blood effects. Liquid Green Stuff is just a gap-filling putty; lots of companies make those. Lahmian Medium is basically acrylic matte medium, 'Ardcoat is just gloss varnish, and the gem paints... there's gotta be a source for them elsewhere but I'm not sure. Tamiya Clear paints, maybe. You could also probably mimic the effects of something like Blood for the Blood God by e.g. mixing red ink into clear gloss varnish, with some experimentation. That said, other companies' technical-equivalents will all use slightly different formulations from Citadel's -- they won't necessarily work worse, but they might work a bit differently. Stephenls fucked around with this message at 03:36 on Jun 18, 2018 |
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Jun 18, 2018 03:27
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Booley posted:The plastic is already blue because GW started using colored plastic for a few of their push fit kits so that people buying starters could start gaming with models that were a different color for each side immediately. You can ignore the blue color and treat it the same as a grey plastic model. Thanks, that clears that up. I think what I'm going to do is get the Army Painter - Super Dungeon Explore set with the Vallejo Grey Primer. Someone pointed out that the anime minifigure isn't painted the same way as the 40K stuff, but the set comes with red paint and shade paint, where as the Reaper Bones set doesn't. I wasn't planning on using spray-paint at this time, but I realized that the primer was different from the paint, so I added that in, too. I suppose I also need to get some glue, since while it's a snap together figure, the GW manager said it helps to glue them. I don't know what would be best for that. Stephenls posted:What Booley just said. Games Workshop releases Easy-to-build Primaris kits in blue and Easy-to-build Death Guard kits in green so people who want to jump in and start playing can buy something like the First Strike or No Know Fear boxes, get two differently-colored armies right out of of the box, and put them together and play with them. And then they can expand those armies with more Easy-to-build units like the Redemptor Dreadnought and Myphitic Blight-hauler. They did the same thing with some of the starter sets for Age of Sigmar last edition, I believe using yellow plastic for the Stormcast and red for the Chaos barbarian guys. Yeah, I noticed that the two big ones they were pushing were the blue Space Marine the green monster Marines. That actually prompted me to ask if they have different models they sell at different times of the year or anything. I kind of wanted to try getting some of ones with the beak-helmets or the Terminator style armors, but I don't know if those are discontinued or what.
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Jun 18, 2018 04:00
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Max Wilco posted:Yeah, I noticed that the two big ones they were pushing were the blue Space Marine the green monster Marines. That actually prompted me to ask if they have different models they sell at different times of the year or anything. I kind of wanted to try getting some of ones with the beak-helmets or the Terminator style armors, but I don't know if those are discontinued or what. You're talking about the difference between original-flavor marines and Primaris marines, who were newly introduced in 8th edition. The original marines haven't been discontinued but there's sort of a sense that they'll probably be slowly phased out over the next decade or so. It probably won't be very quick, owing to the economics involved -- injection-molded plastic models are very cheap to produce and have a high rate of return, but the molds for plastic are stainless steel and very, very expensive, and wear out slowly. Any given model set requires a high initial capital outlay and then costs little to use once they have it, and so GW is incentivized to try to make money for as long as possible off any given mold. And they have a lot of original-flavor marine molds that aren't going to wear out any time soon. Beakie marines actually aren't their own set; the beak helmet is a helmet option that shows up in a lot of other sets -- the Tactical Squad sprues, for example, have enough bodies and legs to make ten marines, but have sixteen heads, thirteen of which are helmeted, and only three of those helmets are beakies. The classic space marine sets have a lot more variance sculpted into them than the Primaris stuff. I personally am hoping that as the old-style marines are phased out, the newer Primaris sets become equally varied. (Terminators, by contrast, are their own sets; you can totes go buy a box of five of those any time you want.) I found that beakie helmets work fine stuck on Intercessor bodies, mostly. 
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Jun 18, 2018 04:20
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spectralent posted:PSC can easily sell you an army for under £100, which is a bit more than $100 granted. You can probably get a decent sized BA army for $100. Historicals are far cheaper than almost any game tied to an IP. Even moreso if you go down to 1/72, 15mm or 10mm scales. ~100 US can get me like, 500 bods at 1/72, and that's not going for the cheapest options either. It's how I have a shelf full of thousands of troops without having gone bankrupt. Beer4TheBeerGod posted:$50 for a 500g bottle. It's basically a net-shape process so the only material you waste is stuff that's stuck to the part when you rinse. It seems very inexpensive for what I can do with it. That's baller. Do you think it could handle 1/72 levels of detail? A hell of a lot of models I need are no longer in production - e.g. Zvezda's strelets - so being able to create custom alternatives would be perfect.
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Jun 18, 2018 06:54
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I can get features that are a hundredth of an inch wide, so it's worth a shot. You have any models?
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Jun 18, 2018 07:03
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Ghetto SuperCzar posted:Okay, been painting for about a month. This is my 5th painted figure, and its finally starting to not be embarrassingly bad. I think I need to find a way to prop them up and hold them still, because holding with one hand and painting with the other leads to extra shakes. I'd also recommend resting your elbows on the work surface instead of hovering over it, as well as pressing the heels of your hands together. By bracing your upper body like that, whether you're hunched over a desk or a tv tray or whatever you're working on, you'll shake a whole lot less, since everything's all resting on each other. Max Wilco posted:I ended up not buying any paint at either place, but I did buy a Getting Started with Warhammer 40K book for $8 that came with a sample space marine. Max Wilco posted:By the Emperor, why the hell is it blue? Max Wilco posted:I think what I'm going to do is get the Army Painter - Super Dungeon Explore set with the Vallejo Grey Primer. Someone pointed out that the anime minifigure isn't painted the same way as the 40K stuff, but the set comes with red paint and shade paint, where as the Reaper Bones set doesn't. I wasn't planning on using spray-paint at this time, but I realized that the primer was different from the paint, so I added that in, too. I suppose I also need to get some glue, since while it's a snap together figure, the GW manager said it helps to glue them. I don't know what would be best for that. - 10 paints, usually about $3ish a bottle - a paint brush, runs about #3.50 off their own website - and a Super Dungeon Explore figure, which is about another $5-6 so about $40 or so worth of value for under $30. Not too shabby. Since you also grabbed the Vallejo primer, I will make mention that you're going to want to wash the mini with soapy water before priming, and with that primer specifically it does take some time to fully cure. I've found that 24 hours is just fine, but definitely don't start painting after the primer seems dry on the surface. As for glue, I've found that simple super-glue from the dollar store works just as fine as anything, especially with plastics. It's also called cyanoacrylate glue, or CA glue, which is different from the typical Elmer's white glue, or PVA glue. You can also use plastic cement, which will actually chemically weld two pieces of plastic together, but I've found that's way too much hassle. At least if you gently caress up with CA glue you can always toss it in the freezer and break the joins, while you need to actually hack apart any mistakes with an exacto knife, jeweler's saw or something like that. quote:Yeah, I noticed that the two big ones they were pushing were the blue Space Marine the green monster Marines. That actually prompted me to ask if they have different models they sell at different times of the year or anything. I kind of wanted to try getting some of ones with the beak-helmets or the Terminator style armors, but I don't know if those are discontinued or what. Like StephenIs said, they're really just alternate helmets in other kits. Surprisingly, the 1d4chan Power Armor page explains the differences between the various iterations of Space Marine Power Armor pretty well, and has pictures for most of them too. If you want a bunch of beakie helmets, and don't want to buy the whole set of figures where they come from, there's quite a few bits stores out there on the net that will sell helmets. For example, Hoard O Bits has 11 pages of "man-sized heads", and quite a few of those have beakies. I'm sure there's more than one auction on ebay as well, so it's really just a matter of how many do you want, and how much do you want to spend.
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Jun 18, 2018 07:04
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:I can get features that are a hundredth of an inch wide, so it's worth a shot. You have any models? Not on hand. I'll try and wrangle one.
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Jun 18, 2018 07:07
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Loomer posted:Not on hand. I'll try and wrangle one. Depending on what you can find I would love to try and give it a shot.
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Jun 18, 2018 07:08
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Depending on what you can find I would love to try and give it a shot. Awesome. Is there any particular format it needs? I haven't dipped much of a toe into the 3D printing world since each time I've checked before the models in my price range weren't able to get anywhere even close to the level of detail needed, but I do know half the printers out there want proprietary formats and poo poo.
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Jun 18, 2018 07:10
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Hey folks, anyone have any recommendations/suggestions for painting wood effects on smoother surfaces? I have an idea for my Death Guard, but my test model didn't come out in a way I'm particularly happy with.
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Jun 18, 2018 09:12
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Loomer posted:Awesome. Is there any particular format it needs? I haven't dipped much of a toe into the 3D printing world since each time I've checked before the models in my price range weren't able to get anywhere even close to the level of detail needed, but I do know half the printers out there want proprietary formats and poo poo. I can convert most formats. I prefer step or igs.
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Jun 18, 2018 12:08
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