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Larrymer posted:This times infinity. That'll look nice in their show room until the end of time. Yep. I worked at a Pontiac/Buick/GMC dealership in 2004, and the main attraction in the showroom was a black and yellow collectors edition Trans Am, marked up $3,000. It was to commemorate the last year they made Firebirds, in 2002.
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Jun 18, 2018 14:25
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There was a 99 Eclipse GSX at Salinas Mitsubishi with 42 miles on it, priced at $28.990. In 2008.
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Jun 18, 2018 16:03
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There was a car dealer near me that had a huge sprawling lot, and at one end was their original showroom that was basically a 1970's time capsule. I think what happened was they built a bigger showroom and migrated into that one, leaving the old one up and it sort of turned into a "store low mileage cars here that never sold and forget about them" type room. One that stood out the most to me was a 74-ish beetle convertible, parked front and center. Other offerings were random jeeps and some early 80's GM products. At any rate eventually modernization hit and they had to get rid of that building, which meant selling all these cars. The beetle had a $15k price tag on it, in 2010.  It was certainly a very clean example, but ain't no one gonna pay that much for an acvw from the 70's that's been cooking in an un-ventilated building for 30-ish years. It didn't move once in the 10 years I commuted past it so it's not like anyone was turning the engine over either.
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Jun 18, 2018 16:20
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It's probably about time for a new battery for the WRX and I was wondering how feasible it is to replace it with a Lithium-Ion battery? My problem is that we sometimes go 2-3 weeks without driving the car, which means a dead battery, which means I have to trickle charge it once a week just to avoid that. I can't leave the trickle-charger in due to it being an apartment building garage. I was hoping the Lithium-Ion would last longer between charges. Is this a dumb idea?
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Jun 18, 2018 21:55
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Internet Explorer posted:It's probably about time for a new battery for the WRX and I was wondering how feasible it is to replace it with a Lithium-Ion battery? My problem is that we sometimes go 2-3 weeks without driving the car, which means a dead battery, which means I have to trickle charge it once a week just to avoid that. I can't leave the trickle-charger in due to it being an apartment building garage. I was hoping the Lithium-Ion would last longer between charges. Get a battery cut off switch? Unless your radio station programmable buttons would annoy you too much.
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Jun 18, 2018 22:02
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I'll admit I've thought about it. It would be a great way to dump a bunch a weight all at once. But there's one problem. Lithium ions are terrible in cold weather. They wouldn't start your car in winter unless you kept them warm.
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Jun 18, 2018 22:02
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Shouldn't a normal, not-dying battery be able to handle sitting for 2-3 weeks a time?
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Jun 18, 2018 22:08
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Yes, a normal battery should be able to handle a month easily wothout being driven, so long its taken for a nice long drive once it has been started.
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Jun 18, 2018 22:12
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The other issue with lithium batteries is that you can't just hook them up to your existing charging circuitry. Your car came designed to charge a lead battery, it uses the wrong voltage, doesn't follow a charging pattern that is good for lithium, and doesn't have a balancer.
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Jun 18, 2018 22:30
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Wonderllama posted:Get a battery cut off switch? Unless your radio station programmable buttons would annoy you too much. Yeah, this would be a pain for a bunch of reasons. Thanks all for the feedback and quick responses. It sounds like it's not worth it. The battery is about 4 years old, so it could be that it's just going bad and not holding as long of a charge as it used to. I'll just replace it with another standard battery and go from there. [Edit: It seems like maybe an absorbent glass mat (AGM) battery might be worth looking into for me? They claim to keep a charge longer and be better at not getting damaged if it drains completely.] Internet Explorer fucked around with this message at 22:52 on Jun 18, 2018 |
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Jun 18, 2018 22:46
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Test drove an Ascent today. It was pretty cool, felt like a slightly car-ier Pilot or similar. CVT was a bit annoying, pulling out into traffic it never seemed sure whether I wanted to whack the throttle on or pull away gingerly. Interior was really nice.
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Jun 18, 2018 23:26
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Kreez posted:Crossposting part of this from the stupid question thread since I didn't get answer there and I figure it's just a quick "don't worry about it". I'm a mechanically inclined person with a lot of experience working on bikes (as in bicycles) and industrial equipment, but never had any reasonable space to work on my car. I finally have a small garage and free time, so I've started learning to work on my 2010 Impreza, and am pretty clueless about what I guess is basic car mechanic knowledge. If slow start didn't repeat I wouldn't worry about it. Bleeding brakes and long dead zone. Bleeding is always good (removes water and raises the boiling point) but will only fix a mushy pedal (if air is the cause). For dead zone, as your pads wear the hydraulics have to move further before all the slack in the system is taken up. If you pump your pedal multiple times does it become firm with less dead zone? If so slack in the system. There are a few other causes too but I would check for rotor and pad wear first. If they're near the end of their life the pedal will probably come back with new hardware.
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Jun 19, 2018 00:20
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In my experience, slack in the system, especially after taking turns, can be a sign of a bad wheel bearing. Both of my front wheel bearings went on my 2002 WRX in this fashion. They were silent as can be and the wheels didn't rock when you had the car in the air, but take a turn and you had to double apply the brakes.
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Jun 19, 2018 01:02
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rifles posted:Test drove an Ascent today. It was pretty cool, felt like a slightly car-ier Pilot or similar. CVT was a bit annoying, pulling out into traffic it never seemed sure whether I wanted to whack the throttle on or pull away gingerly. Interior was really nice. I drove one a few weeks ago, I thought it was pretty nice and faster than I thought it would be. We should be getting a touring trim in late july or august and then we're getting rid of my wifes 2009 wrx
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Jun 19, 2018 01:09
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honda whisperer posted:If slow start didn't repeat I wouldn't worry about it. Cheers, thanks, I'll do all 4 pads and rotors when I swap my winters back on, I don't think I've ever had 4 (8 I guess?) fresh brake pads since I drove off the lot.
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Jun 19, 2018 01:43
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Put the Ascent's powerplant into a Crosstek with a six speed and we'll talk.
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Jun 19, 2018 01:59
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EightBit posted:The other issue with lithium batteries is that you can't just hook them up to your existing charging circuitry. Your car came designed to charge a lead battery, it uses the wrong voltage, doesn't follow a charging pattern that is good for lithium, and doesn't have a balancer. Yeah this, it'd be a lot of work and potentially dangerous. But would be cool. But probably not worth it.
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Jun 19, 2018 02:17
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Kreez posted:Cheers, thanks, I'll do all 4 pads and rotors when I swap my winters back on, I don't think I've ever had 4 (8 I guess?) fresh brake pads since I drove off the lot. Nooo don't shotgun parts at your car based on a post on the internet. This is just at starting point for figuring out what's wrong. Diagnose the actual problem and repair it. Got a service manual for your car? https://techinfo.subaru.com/stis/#/login $35 for 3 days access. Download every PDF they have for your car. These are the factory supplied service manuals. There will be specs for pad and rotor thickness as well as diagnostic flow charts and instructions for every nut bolt and washer on your car.
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Jun 19, 2018 02:27
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Give all the Subaru CVTs going forward a low-end direct gear, and we'll talk.
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Jun 19, 2018 02:27
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SwissArmyDruid posted:Give all the Subaru CVTs going forward a low-end direct gear, and we'll talk. Or you know, gently caress off CVT's and use real gearboxes. Or if you really are concerned about winning the traffic light derby, you can use the CVT's torque converter stall and launch it considerably faster. rifles posted:Test drove an Ascent today. It was pretty cool, felt like a slightly car-ier Pilot or similar. CVT was a bit annoying, pulling out into traffic it never seemed sure whether I wanted to whack the throttle on or pull away gingerly. Interior was really nice. Does the Ascent have alterative throttle mapping modes (SI-Drive)? That does make computers use a less laggy and more decisive programming in how it does poo poo in general. Looking at the interior pics, I dont see it sooooo..... yeah that's gonna suck, the CVT isnt exactly a driver's delight in normal modes.
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Jun 19, 2018 03:09
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Alright, so it looks like my battery might be dead-dead. I kind of snuck in my question about an AGM battery when I edited my post, so people almost certainly missed it. Would an AGM battery be good in my situation where 1) it gets fairly cold and 2) I regularly go 2-3 weeks without driving and even when I do, it can be one time and then another 2-3 weeks before driving again? Amazon says this fits my 2014 WRX - https://www.amazon.com/Optima-Batteries-8040-218-YellowTop-Purpose/dp/B000MSDKMA I know they have a "Red Top" battery that is a few bucks less and is more or less a standard AGM battery. This "Yellow Top" one says it is better for deep-cycles, which from my very limited knowledge means it would do less damage to the the battery if it got drained more from lack of use. I haven't replaced a battery before. It seems fairly straight-forward. Should I also get a terminal cleaning brush and a can of battery terminal protector? Are anti-corrosion washers instead of the battery terminal protector spray? Sorry for the boring rear end questions. AI outside of this thread scares me. 
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Jun 19, 2018 03:21
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Even with a sealed battery like an agm/optima, you can experience leaking around the terminal posts. Its rare, but it can happen. For $5, just throw the felt washers and some terminal gel on whenever you replace a battery and save future you a possible headache. For the difference between a standard agm battery and an optima, it comes down to how the lead plates inside the batteries are arranged. A standard battery is just square/rectangular plates, optimas are formed into a spiral. They claims this helps with vibration resistance, but ymmv. As for the difference in a red top and a yellow top, the red top is purely a cranking battery whereas the yellow top is intended to be used when you will have a heavy draw on it over time, such as extra lighting, sound systems, winches, etc. The yellow tops ability comes at the cost of up front cranking power. In your case, the red top is probably the better option between the two. Even the red top can stand being discharged down some due to sitting for a couple weeks and will have the extra cold cranking amps to still spin the car over in the cold. Edit: And honestly, if letting the vehicle sit is that common of an occurrence, you should consider investing in a decent trickle charger/maintainer and use it. Just make sure if you get an agm battery that the charger is agm compatible. Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 03:46 on Jun 19, 2018 |
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Jun 19, 2018 03:41
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Elmnt80 posted:Even with a sealed battery like an agm/optima, you can experience leaking around the terminal posts. Its rare, but it can happen. For $5, just throw the felt washers and some terminal gel on whenever you replace a battery and save future you a possible headache. I appreciate the help. I wasn't as much asking about between a "standard AGM" and an "Optima AGM," more just a standard lead-acid and an AGM. I have no idea what I'm talking about and that likely lead to the confusion. Since you didn't say DON'T GET AN AGM!!! I'll go forward and get the RedTop like you recommended. [Edit: Saw your edit. I have a Battery Tender Plus, which claims to work with AGM batteries. I use it but can't leave it plugged in permanently. I had avoided adding the quick-connect adapter thingy since it looked like I was going to have to unplug the battery, but now I guess I have an excuse. I had been charging it every 2 weeks or so, but I think the damage had already been done. My wife drove the car for an hour+ each way a few days ago and now the battery is dead. I'm kind of assuming it was the battery given that we've had to jump it a few times and I've probably let it drain too low, but I guess it could also be the alternator. With the age of the battery I'm comfortable replacing it and then looking at the alternator if necessary. Thanks again!] Internet Explorer fucked around with this message at 03:54 on Jun 19, 2018 |
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Jun 19, 2018 03:47
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Elmnt80 posted:Edit: And honestly, if letting the vehicle sit is that common of an occurrence, you should consider investing in a decent trickle charger/maintainer and use it. Just make sure if you get an agm battery that the charger is agm compatible. He's got no place to use a trickle charger unless it would be a solar panel on the dash or something, unless I misread the previous post completely.
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Jun 19, 2018 03:49
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Wrar posted:He's got no place to use a trickle charger unless it would be a solar panel on the dash or something, unless I misread the previous post completely. It's really more that I know the apartment complex would give me poo poo if I left it in permanently. I have to run an extension cord like 20 feet to get to an outlet. Definitely first world problems here. It's nice not to have to sit in traffic. Just a problem I never thought I'd have. Internet Explorer fucked around with this message at 03:57 on Jun 19, 2018 |
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Jun 19, 2018 03:54
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Or you know, gently caress off CVT's and use real gearboxes. I guess, but given how good latest Eyesight is, I find it a compelling reason to have, but there's no way to get it with a manual, so I'd like for Subaru to follow Toyota's lead and put a single low-end direct gear into their CVTs.
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Jun 19, 2018 03:55
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Internet Explorer posted:It's really more that I know the apartment complex would give me poo poo if I left it in permanently. I have to run an extension cord like 20 feet to get to an outlet. Oh, I completely missed the bit about not being able to use a trickle charger. Oops. As for the differences between a lead acid and an agm, in general it comes down to three things, vibration resistance, recoverability and being sealed. In a lead acid battery the battery acid is a free flowing liquid. Grab that kind of battery and shake it, you hear acid sloshing around. In an agm, its a gel thats suspended in a fiberglass type mat that is then packed into the battery and tightly between the plates. This reduces the amount of vibration in the battery and helps prevent damage over time to the lead plates in a battery. I've never figured out how, but apparently this also makes it easier to recover a heavily discharged agm, which is an actual thing that happens from my own personal experiences. Shits just magic yo. Lastly is that an agm battery is totally sealed. No gasses escape during charging, it doesn't leak when tipped over, and no acid is supposed to leak out during use. The last one I've found is not 100% since I recently had an optima seep out around the terminals on the battery and cause some (not very) fun power issues. Fortunately a quick hose down with acid nuetralizer and terminal protector solved my issue. Edit: Also, the recommendation of the red top was just if you were going to buy an optima specifically. The rest of that is your choice. Elmnt80 fucked around with this message at 04:23 on Jun 19, 2018 |
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Jun 19, 2018 04:19
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SwissArmyDruid posted:I guess, but given how good latest Eyesight is, I find it a compelling reason to have, but there's no way to get it with a manual, so I'd like for Subaru to follow Toyota's lead and put a single low-end direct gear into their CVTs. The direct gear is a gimmick, plain and simple - Much of the initial lag is the torque converter / CVT mapping / throttle mapping which a weight adding and complexity multiplying initial gear isnt going to overcome. Example - use a better SI mode in a CVT WRX and it's a different car to drive. Any stodginess off the line is more to do with the torque converter than the CVT - if you stall the converter you are considerably faster out of the hole.
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Jun 19, 2018 05:40
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honda whisperer posted:Nooo don't shotgun parts at your car based on a post on the internet. This is just at starting point for figuring out what's wrong. Diagnose the actual problem and repair it. By September they'll all be within the range where replacing is necessary anyway. I'll just make a point of doing all 4 at once instead of only doing each pair at the last possible moment, which would likely mean the rears in Sept and the fronts a month later.
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Jun 19, 2018 07:13
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Firstly pad and rotor wear has nothing to do with how far the brake pedal travels. The pistons/pads don't retract all the way back into the caliper when you take your foot off the brake. Essentially, they stay where they are right up against the rotor and as the pads wear the pistons will just be sticking farther out of the caliper. Pad knockback, however, is a thing, especially with Subaru 5x100 wheel bearings. Wear/play/flex in the bearings and hubs means that cornering and road forces push the pads back a little bit. Then they have further to go the next time you push the brake pedal down. Even driving on a twisty road I get used to giving the brake a little tap before I actually need to brake, and it's a really common thing to need to do driving on a race track. The other thing is that the brakes on these cars generally don't feel the best, especially with the 2-piston sliding calipers, but there are booster/master cylinder/caliper combinations that feel better than others. The STI booster for example provides less assist, and there are 3 sizes of master cylinder out there. Bigger master cylinder means less pedal travel but more force required, which is generally preferable to a soft pedal that goes a long way. You're probably not going to want to get into changing master cylinders and calipers, so the first things to do are new pads and a good brake bleed and flush. Some sort of an aftermarket street/performance pad might be worth a try, there are a few out there that are pretty low priced and don't make horrible noises or anything but provide better initial bite. I just sent someone on here some of DBA's new pads but I don't think they've been installed yet. And since 2008 the Impreza wheel bearings are a complete bolt in unit with the hub so they are pretty easy to change compared to the older press in ones. There are also some other modifications you can do to moderately improve brake feel, such as braided steel brake lines (although the bleed done at the same time might be the more important part), and a master cylinder brace, which bolts on and pushes the master cylinder up against the firewall. tldr- start with new pads and a brake bleed. If that doesn't help much consider new front wheel bearings.
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Jun 19, 2018 18:12
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This one has me stumped. 04 WRX with a ridiculous amount of mods and a dyno tune. A pre-heater wire on my front O2 sensor got munched (my fault) and it threw a P0131 code. I had a spare O2 sensor so I swapped them. I can get readiness in all readiness monitors except the O2 sensor. (Yes, even Evap) I pulled the codes on my access-port, and it had a P0171 that was pending. At least I assume it was pending because the check engine light wasn't on and the code popped. So I re-seated everything, drove it to on my standard ODB2 readiness route (yes I have one) and I get readiness in all monitors except O2 sensor. So I ordered another sensor, installed it, same thing. No readiness in O2 sensor, no codes, no pending codes, readiness in all other sensors. Ideas?
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Jun 19, 2018 23:37
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I’m going to test drive a 2018 outback limited when I get home on the first of July. It’d be my first automatic in 6 years, but I currently don’t have a car with decent leg/trunk space and I want to eventually change that. Are the modern CVT’s crap? Any impressions of the car in this thread?
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Jun 21, 2018 14:02
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Everyone hates Subaru's cvt, but it'll get the job done. So if you expect an exciting drive, you'll be mad. If you just need conveyance you won't give a poo poo.
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Jun 21, 2018 14:21
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I’m more leaning towards comfortable conveyance with the rare comfortable road trip. I’m also looking at the VW golf alltrack, because I can get that in a 6 speed with a turbo 4.
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Jun 21, 2018 14:33
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Rolo posted:I’m going to test drive a 2018 outback limited when I get home on the first of July. It’d be my first automatic in 6 years, but I currently don’t have a car with decent leg/trunk space and I want to eventually change that. Are the modern CVT’s crap? Any impressions of the car in this thread? The CVT will do the job and Subaru have them figured out better than pretty much anyone. You'll think Eyesight is amazing (it is) and the Outback is pretty much a good car all round. quote:I’m more leaning towards comfortable conveyance with the rare comfortable road trip. No problem there at all. Roadtripping in cruise mode is perfectly fine.
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Jun 21, 2018 14:45
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Rolo posted:I’m more leaning towards comfortable conveyance with the rare comfortable road trip. The alltrack platform is better regarded by those that care about driving enthusiastically. Not a sports car by any stretch, but less bloated than current Outbacks. It's kind of what the outback itself used to be before Subaru decided to give up on enthusiasts, but more refined. But at the end of the day they'll both get you there comfortably so you'll get to weigh price, how you get along with the cvt, room, options, etc.
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Jun 21, 2018 14:45
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I have a 2018 3.6R Outback Touring and I absolutely love it. It’s made of love.
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Jun 21, 2018 14:53
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Love of visiting gas stations maybe.
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Jun 21, 2018 14:58
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It gets much better gas mileage than my 2009 Cadillac DTS and doesn’t need premium. It does 0-60 in 6.9 seconds too so it’s pretty peppy.
Bum the Sad fucked around with this message at 15:05 on Jun 21, 2018 |
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Jun 21, 2018 15:01
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xzzy posted:Love of visiting gas stations maybe. I have a '13 Outback 3.6R with the old 5EAT and we're averaging around 20-21mpg in mixed driving. I do not have a light foot. It's not terrible.
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Jun 21, 2018 15:08
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