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Prime with a rattlecan. It takes too long and you don't wanna rush it and if you spend forever priming then you'll get tired before you paint anything cool. Do a quick spray and you get a nice even thin coat and then dry and you're off to doing real painting.
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Jun 21, 2018 03:49
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Spray can primers are also like, four dollars a can. I also prime gundams and trad. Kits and a can still lasts me a month and change. if you live in a tropical rainforest then sure go brush-on, but even then if you have a basement you can just chuck it down there.
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Jun 21, 2018 03:53
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Well, I got the marine assembled and primed.    It, uh, didn't go as smoothly as hoped. The big screwup was trying to superglue the peg inserts for the torso and in doing so, I think the glue solidified before I got it pushed in fully, so there's a seam on the left side. The head also wobbles around.  I also think I made a mistake in assembling the whole thing before priming it, since I couldn't get into some spaces real well. You can see a few spots in the image, but the biggest spot is between the gun and the chest. I also couldn't scrape the mold-lines and sprue cuts off real well with the exacto knife, so there some minor protrusions here and there. Overall, I see the benefit of using spraypaint, but I'll have to wait on buying that. Max Wilco fucked around with this message at 05:15 on Jun 21, 2018 |
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Jun 21, 2018 05:11
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That's a decent looking spaceman. You can always nitpick minis when you look at a blown up picture but sitting on the table it'll look a-ok. Yeah assembling before painting can be an issue sometimes. But painting an assembled model is easier than tiny bits, so with some models where you can get away with it, it makes things easier. And the areas you have trouble painting will be areas mostly occluded from view. Still, sometimes I do some painting with bits and then put them together. Depends upon how convex it is. Marines can be annoying in the chest area but otherwise not too bad.
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Jun 21, 2018 05:33
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Neurolimal posted:
How is this game?
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Jun 21, 2018 07:36
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I’ve just started doing edge highlighting on my new Primaris Marines instead of dry brushing them. I was wondering: in the GW pics, the highlights are achieved with nice thin lines along the edges of things. They look great in close up pics. In YouTube tutorials though, the edge highlights are often much larger, thicker lines. I don’t think this looks nearly as nice, at least up close. If I’m going for stuff that looks nice from three feet away on a tabletop, should I be going for thicker highlights as in these videos, or are my thin, GW-style lines alright too? Maybe I need to increase the highlights by doing extreme edge highlights on the most prominent areas with an even lighter colour? I bet that would help some. What do you guys think? Gunder fucked around with this message at 09:55 on Jun 21, 2018 |
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Jun 21, 2018 09:52
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Ghetto SuperCzar posted:How is this game? Pretty interesting, I never played Dungeon Saga, but it's a co-op game that can also be played solo (or possibly co-op with no DM? Haven't tried that), it's tile-based, most characters aren't loaded with abilities, but you acrue loot cards that help mix things up and upgrade abilities. I'd say the biggest concern is that the base box doesn't have a lot of missions, but the format is simple enough that you could make your own on the spot fairly easily, and one of the planned expansions is a charactor and scenario creator. The maps are strips of area rather than a full square map, which can be a bit annoying to set up and keep from sliding around; a rubber mat helps here. As you can see from the bases enemies are molded in red plastic and characters in blue, so it's entirely playable OOB. Neurolimal fucked around with this message at 10:53 on Jun 21, 2018 |
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Jun 21, 2018 10:50
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Gunder posted:I’ve just started doing edge highlighting on my new Primaris Marines instead of dry brushing them. Be neat and consistent. Edge highlights take a bit more time and having to do a squad's worth of them , let alone an entire army, can sap your energy so find a method that the most acceptable for you. The camera will always be cruel when you photograph models. Even the most perfect paint job will have the creator wincing when they notice the little mistakes and slips they made that the rest of us can't really see. I would say go with the thicker lines if its quicker and easier and allows you to get your painted models down on the table faster. Try to be neat and get those minis painted. Your highlight technique will improve over time to the point where you will just get faster and better at highlights
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Jun 21, 2018 11:41
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You'll also have a lot less pain by choosing what distance/angle you want your minis to look good at and focusing there first and foremost. Even the best painters struggle to make minis that look good up close, far away, from above, from behind, at eye level etc. Thin GW lines are good for their up-close detail porn shots, but less so at tabletop distance as you've found, while thicker edging looks really sloppy up close but can have a great effect in army shots. It all comes down to what kind of photos you want to take.
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Jun 21, 2018 11:51
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Neurolimal posted:You'll also have a lot less pain by choosing what distance/angle you want your minis to look good at and focusing there first and foremost. Even the best painters struggle to make minis that look good up close, far away, from above, from behind, at eye level etc. Yeah, I've noticed myself paying extra attention when painting individual characters versus units. I tend to do more neatening up, extra highlights, etc. on characters so they look better up close, but when doing units I allow myself to be a bit sloppier as it's the overall look that's important when they're all next to each other.
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Jun 21, 2018 14:29
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Max Wilco posted:Well, I got the marine assembled and primed. For future reference, I've found it easier to dry-fit everything together before gluing it, just to see if there's any sprue remnants or what-have-you preventing me from getting a flush fit. I mean, yeah, it sucks there's a bit of a gap, but again, at least you're cognizant that there's issues. As you get on with it, you'll get better. Also, before you start actually painting, I figure I'll drop this here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s Duncan's videos, and really much of WarhammerTV's videos, are really, really good to start getting into the swing of things, understanding why certain things are done when painting, etc. I mean sure, it is GW's official channel so there's definitely going to be a lot of GW shilling, but the techniques are sound regardless of the paints and brushes involved. Couldn't hurt to kick back, have an adult beverage or two, and watch a couple of videos you feel are relevant to the dudes and color scheme you're interested in.
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Jun 21, 2018 16:21
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Also don't use super glue on plastic models, unless you hate yourself.
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Jun 21, 2018 16:32
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For dealing with mold lines when using an X-acto blade, flip it over and use the back side of the blade as almost a file. Using an actual file can be too aggressive for thin little lines, and the sharp side of the blade can be fiddly to get a smooth finish off of, but the back side of the blade can be dragged along the mold line to remove it and leave behind a smooth surface without worrying about gouges.
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Jun 21, 2018 16:54
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Although that's dependant on having blades cut with a crisp edge. I'd initially tried that trick with some cheaper blades and it didn't do much. Restocked with some actual Xacto blades that had better corners on the back and it's much more effective.
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Jun 21, 2018 16:58
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Tamiya extra-thin plastic cement is the way to go. The citadel stuff doesn't even come close.
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Jun 21, 2018 17:01
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GuardianOfAsgaard posted:Also don't use super glue on plastic models, unless you hate yourself. Plastic cement is worlds better (and you can use it to fill the seam), but superglue isn't too terrible for larger/deeper connections.
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Jun 21, 2018 17:02
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I use superglue a lot on plastic when I actually need to break the pieces apart, usually for priming sub-assemblies at the same time. Then when reassembling I use plastic cement.
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Jun 21, 2018 17:35
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Some people I know used to deliberately use superglue instead of poly cement on plastics so they could easily break off arms and weapons etc. if they ever wanted to change the loadout on a guy instead of magnetising or buying a new figure. So there's that I guess?
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Jun 21, 2018 19:38
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 Bases done, some small areas where the slot is showing through, will cover whatever I cant hide with the minis via black slate. Here's a gallery of a bunch of discs and two boys standing/hovering on discs: https://imgur.com/a/ZK8FemN Because progress on the army is currently bottlenecked bY two kickstarters, I ordered some minis from Bad Squiddo Games (cool site selling minis curated based on minis she would have liked to have/gotten her into the hobby as a kid, also multiple successful kickstarters for norse and post-apoc miniatures) to use as color tests for the SoB that will be accompanying the LotD and orange bigly marines:  The Omens: Black armor, gold trim, ruby red jewels/iconography, white robe and cloth. Heads would be picked for preference of neutral expressions (then painted as masks), mainly metallics so simple painting, pro-tier reference. Did a horribly sloppy job on this mini, will probably strip it. Still works for getting the scheme across.  Frugal Bulls: Obvious aping of B4TBG's style, matte bone for armor joints, metallic red for armor, dull NMM bronze for weaponry. This miniature derailed from being a color concepts into its own thing because I liked how it was turning out ; probably not sea-blue accents if chosen.  Sola Canines: white armor cut with platemail for a slight sheen, black underarmor, cold-grey robes, dark brass accents. Pretty happy with how this mini turned out.  Custards: black robes, brass armor, red underarmor. Not much to say, teetering on whether or not to strip, probably depends on how much a number simple green does on resin (this isnt from squiddo, Kingdom Death figure).  Opinions on which would be a good pick appreciated.
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Jun 21, 2018 20:38
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GuardianOfAsgaard posted:Also don't use super glue on plastic models, unless you hate your fingers
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Jun 22, 2018 00:14
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Prime with an airbrush, scrubs.
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Jun 22, 2018 00:48
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Just finished up a Dunecrawler. Pretty happy with how it turned out, and how much everything matches my other one. Really tried getting my edges/highlights nice and crisp on this one.   
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Jun 22, 2018 04:14
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Another Deathwatch marine complete. This guy was a lot of fun and I'm particularly happy with the base, definitely my best attempt so far.
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Jun 22, 2018 16:38
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Booyah- posted:I use superglue a lot on plastic when I actually need to break the pieces apart, usually for priming sub-assemblies at the same time. Then when reassembling I use plastic cement. I use super glue because I do some assembly work at the office at lunch, and I don't want to cause a HazMat situation by making people sick with plastic glue fumes.
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Jun 22, 2018 16:57
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Duct Tape posted:Just finished up a Dunecrawler. Pretty happy with how it turned out, and how much everything matches my other one. Really tried getting my edges/highlights nice and crisp on this one. Looks really good, I just wonder why I see so many people doing red models on red/orange bases? I feel like it takes a little away from the model when the base is almost the same color. But also, lots of people are doing it, so I'm not sure I trust my opinion 😁
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Jun 22, 2018 17:47
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TheFinalTuba posted:Looks really good, I just wonder why I see so many people doing red models on red/orange bases? I feel like it takes a little away from the model when the base is almost the same color. But also, lots of people are doing it, so I'm not sure I trust my opinion 😁 AdMech are on Mars. It's the coolest way to do them.
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Jun 22, 2018 18:07
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Also, when done properly, like here, there is sufficient contrast between the base and the model to make the model pop.
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Jun 22, 2018 18:27
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bonds0097 posted:Also, when done properly, like here, there is sufficient contrast between the base and the model to make the model pop. Oh gotcha, so there's lore reasons. Makes sense. And yeah, this particular one definitely pops more than some.
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Jun 22, 2018 19:07
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I'm struggling with the same conundrum for my Blood Angels. I want to simulate Baal when I base them, but Baal is supposed to be a lot like Mars, hence red on red. I am going to really up the saturation on the power armor to compensate and was also planning on adding other effects like snow and some tyranid parts for contrast...yet to be seen if I have the skill to pull it off.
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Jun 22, 2018 19:09
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Do the models have to be painted a specific color?
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Jun 22, 2018 19:25
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My first impulse would be to do the ground somewhat more orange-ish and try to pull the armore in colder direction with slightly purplish shadows. And like you said, saturation is another avenue to create contrast.
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Jun 22, 2018 19:35
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TheFinalTuba posted:Do the models have to be painted a specific color? Yeah, basically. Space Marines have specific chapters with canonical color schemes so when someone says "Blood Angels" people immediately think of a specific shade of red. That being said, there are also successor chapters that are offshoots of the main chapters with their own (often vastly different) color schemes and lore, and you could also just create your own successor chapter if you wanted to. So it's not that you can't play with your mans if you don't paint them a certain way, but I gather that for a lot of people the lore around the chapter was a large part of their decision to play as them, so it feels kind of wrong not to honor the canon with your color choices. Bistromatic posted:My first impulse would be to do the ground somewhat more orange-ish and try to pull the armore in colder direction with slightly purplish shadows. Yeah I have some "Red Earth" ink which seems like a brownish orange, so that is my plan right now for the base colors. I like the idea of the purplish shadows on the armor...I will experiment with using a violet wash instead of brown and see what that does. I've seen some painters do the gems and blood vials on the armor purple instead of red, and that has definitely had a nice effect but I don't like that it detracts from the fluff. Mikey Purp fucked around with this message at 20:36 on Jun 22, 2018 |
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Jun 22, 2018 20:29
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Desaturated rusty orange is gonna be way less eye-catching than deep cartoony red. You can totally put a bright red dude on a Mars-y base.
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Jun 22, 2018 20:40
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ah yeah, that makes sense. So the lore actually encourages groups of red dudes, on red planets? Seems like they're sticking their players in a rough situation xD
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Jun 22, 2018 20:51
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To be fair, there are pretty much no rules or guidelines around how you base models for a given army; it's just my desire to base them in a fluffy manner that's creating this situation. I could just as easily pretend that they are on a lush jungle world fighting xenos, but instead I am deciding to base them with a nod toward a specific event in the recent lore (the Devastation of Baal) that takes place on their home planet.
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Jun 22, 2018 21:02
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I'd look at AdMec for red on red inspiration
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Jun 22, 2018 21:10
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Zaphod42 posted:That's a decent looking spaceman. You can always nitpick minis when you look at a blown up picture but sitting on the table it'll look a-ok. The gun-holding arm covers up most of it. I've seen in a couple of videos where people are painting the chest before attaching the gun, so maybe that's a technique to remember. Aniodia posted:For future reference, I've found it easier to dry-fit everything together before gluing it, just to see if there's any sprue remnants or what-have-you preventing me from getting a flush fit. I mean, yeah, it sucks there's a bit of a gap, but again, at least you're cognizant that there's issues. As you get on with it, you'll get better. The only issue I see with that I don't think it's possible to take the chest apart, even without the glue. It seems like it'd be pretty hard to do, and you'd risk breaking it trying to separate the two. Maybe that's not a section you really need to adhere with glue, though. Neurolimal posted:Plastic cement is worlds better (and you can use it to fill the seam), but superglue isn't too terrible for larger/deeper connections. Ironically, someone gave me some old Testor's plastic cement they found after I finished priming the model, and it looks like it still might be usable.  Aniodia posted:Also, before you start actually painting, I figure I'll drop this here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s Thanks, that video on thinning paints is a good reference. I meant to watch through some more of the WHTV stuff, but I got caught up with other things. However, in the last week or so, I have been watching some various videos and channels on painting minis. One that I really like is Miniac, who has a video guide through each step of painting a mini.  My paint arrived today, so I guess I'm all set up to actually start painting. I've been thinking about doing the marine a red color (in a Blood Angel/Blood Raven style). However, I might watch through a couple of videos before I start. EDIT: It was also a good thing I bought brushes, since the brush inside the paint kit was broken. 
Max Wilco fucked around with this message at 23:07 on Jun 22, 2018 |
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Jun 22, 2018 22:41
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This weekend's experiment When doing oil weathering over acrylic, do I need to seal the paint first or can I just line/wash directly over my acrylic undercoats? 
WorldIndustries fucked around with this message at 00:55 on Jun 23, 2018 |
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Jun 23, 2018 00:23
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I always gloss varnish before using oils.
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Jun 23, 2018 00:55
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I'm trying to paint the marine right now. I imagine it's going to take a while to finish the basecoating.  Is it possible to thin your paints too much?
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Jun 23, 2018 00:59
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