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Holy poo poo sterbais, the extra water changes I did trying to correct whatever was wrong in their tank triggered them to spawn AGAIN after almost two weeks of nothing. 80+ eggs, this time I am taking out any eggs that aren’t eaten!
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Jun 13, 2018 02:11
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Stoca Zola posted:Holy poo poo sterbais, the extra water changes I did trying to correct whatever was wrong in their tank triggered them to spawn AGAIN after almost two weeks of nothing. 80+ eggs, this time I am taking out any eggs that aren’t eaten! I’m sure I’ll regret this but I Wish my shell dwellers would spawn. Bought them “6 month old” in November and have had the 5 of them hardly filling the 20 long.
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Jun 13, 2018 04:13
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I wouldn't have thought shellies were seasonal either, if you could get some live white worms or grindal worms into them it might trigger them to breed. Not sure what they eat, maybe even micro worms would help, assuming they are micropredators. What's your gender ratio? Would dither fish help? I've been too scared to keep cichlids up to now due to not wanting a fry explosion but my corys and gudgeons proved to me that it can happen with any fish if they are in the mood 
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Jun 13, 2018 08:18
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My amanos were freaking out so I did an emergency water change just in case. Lost my favorite gourami yesterday and a few Corrie's over the last bit so I was being cautious. A quick google says they're just horny as gently caress and trying to impress the 1 female Amano I have that's loaded up with eggs. They won't reproduce in my regular freshwater right? I'm using c02 and Calgary's water is already a bit hard because of mountain runoff.
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Jun 13, 2018 15:37
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So I moved in to my new house on Memorial Day weekend and have sort of a handle on the pond situation. With the pond came three "pond goldfish", which from my observation look to each be about 4-6 inches long. The pond is supposed to be about 2 feet deep, but we've had so much rain that it is certainly deeper than that. The fish apparently like to hang out near the bottom or otherwise hide, so they often cannot be seen. I notice them more often in the mornings or late afternoon /early evening, when it isn't very sunny where the pond is. There are four plants in the pond, and I don't really know what they are, other than they appear to be doing well. The two lilly pad looking plants were barely above the dirt in their pots when we moved in, but now have multiple lilly pads floating on the water. The other two plants are growing like gangbusters - let me know if you know what sorts of plants these are. Below is a recent picture of the pond showing the plants and so forth:  Maintenance so far has involved cleaning out the pump about once a week (you can really tell when it needs changing - the water coming out the top gets very low compared to how it looks after its been cleaned). I also have been taking the pH of the water with a kit leftover from the prior owners (looks to be about 7.6 both times I have checked it). Below is a somewhat blurry picture of the pump disassembled and in the midst of being hosed off. Sorry for the quality of the picture - it was raining when I was doing this and I took it rather quickly. It's amazing how much dirt/sediment comes off of those lava rocks (and other filter mediums)  I've uploaded a 5-second video of one of the fish swimming around - I've had a hell of a time trying to get a picture of the fish because they pop in and out of view pretty quickly, and when they are visible they're deep enough still in the water that they don't come out very well in a picture. This fish is mostly orange. Another one has significantly more white with orange stripes/spots. And the third is orange with black/white striping. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oDpvbE-S3pY My current thought is to try to maintain the status quo this year, and see how the winter goes, before thinking about adding any other fish. The prior owners told us that at one point they had as many as 8 goldfish in the pond - it would be nice to see fish more often in the pond and perhaps having more fish in the pond will do that. But I want to take it easy and make sure I can take care of the ones I have before adding more. I'd be interested in anyone's thoughts or comments about things I could do to better take care of or improve the pond.
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Jun 13, 2018 16:01
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Looks like Japanese Flag rush for the spiky one. Those pond goldfish will get bigger, and will probably get a bit bolder as they get used to you. They like routine - feed them at the same place at the same time and they'll come to the surface for you. Do you have any idea the dimensions of the pond in terms of square footage? Eight might be overstocking, but a couple more might not hurt, depending on how many gallons you have. Also note that more goldfish might mean torn up plants. Shubunkin make excellent and very colorful pond goldfish if you do have the space to add.
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Jun 13, 2018 16:13
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w00tmonger posted:My amanos were freaking out so I did an emergency water change just in case. Lost my favorite gourami yesterday and a few Corrie's over the last bit so I was being cautious. The eggs might hatch but amano shrimp have a planktonic larval stage that needs to get into brackish water fairly soon after hatching. They are almost impossible to feed in captivity as far as I know, as they are so small and the foods they eat are even smaller. I’ve seen people posting on Facebook that they’ve done it by having a brackish set up ready to go, isolating the female to make collection of larva easier, but no idea what they are feeding (possibly greenwater). Speaking of hatching, I’m a sucker for raising babies. I started scraping the eggs off the glass in my sterbai cory tank, as most of them had gone white, when I noticed about one in every 3 or 4 were actually fertile. So to make up for killing off an unknown but large quantity of fry, I’ve set up a breeder box in my 20g tall gudgeon tank and I’ve kept something like 25 eggs. I’m going to give away some fry fairly soon, they’re 2.5 months old now and pretty much miniature adults so I think they will not fit in anyone’s mouth and will be able to fend for themselves okay. After seeing how well the other batch of fry are doing, I do want to keep some corys in all my gudgeon tanks as they seem to eat the same kind of food but do a better job of getting stuff off the substrate.
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Jun 13, 2018 18:21
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Shakenbaker posted:The random feeder ghost shrimp I bought for cleanup crew are also breeding, which I did not think they liked to do at all in tanks. That's cool too, if a bit bewildering. Hell no. If you have a tank where they're not being stressed/eaten they'll bump uglies just as much as any other breed. I was worried about my cherry shrimp. I got a batch of 25, but can only locate 5 at most at any given time. But I've found a few molts and I'm seeing tiny ones on the glass from time to time so i guess they're going at it too Bonster posted:Looks like Japanese Flag rush for the spiky one. Can confirm, shubunkins are colorful, cheap, and have some character to them. One of mine figured out how to squirt water at me when he was hungry. This was both amazingly funny and annoying at once SocketWrench fucked around with this message at 18:59 on Jun 13, 2018 |
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Jun 13, 2018 18:53
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Looking to replace my now dead dwarf gourami. Would it be a bad idea to add 2-3 pearl gourami to the 55 community tank? I've had a few other fish die in the last few months so bioload wise the math is there. Otherwise open to recommendations but would like a peacefully fish that'll get along with my cherry barbs etc and my shrimps. I've heard pearl gouramis could get a bit aggressive if they end up breeding w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 21:46 on Jun 13, 2018 |
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Jun 13, 2018 21:42
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Bonster posted:Looks like Japanese Flag rush for the spiky one. IIRC from a previous post they don't feed these fish at all. They live off algae and plants in the water. So it makes sense that the fish are 'shy', from their perspective nothing good every happens at the surface of the water. There is no food at the surface, only predators.
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Jun 14, 2018 00:32
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Facebook Aunt posted:IIRC from a previous post they don't feed these fish at all. They live off algae and plants in the water. So it makes sense that the fish are 'shy', from their perspective nothing good every happens at the surface of the water. There is no food at the surface, only predators. Ah, that makes sense. In that case, I wouldn't add more. You have to maintain a functioning ecosystem and if they're not getting outside food, you can't have a big stocking load. On another note, just a little vent. I have upgraded from a 20 gallon guppy tank to 36 gallon bowfront, and also have a relatively new 38 gallon tank with mostly tetras and cory cats in it. Cycled the same way. Same care. Same parameters, doing great! Both planted with driftwood, even the same substrate. The transfers from the 20 gallon to the 36 gallon are thriving, fantastic color, active... and the ones in the other tank keep dropping dead. The marimo balls look a little browner in the 38 gallon too. I think I might replace the automated heater which came with the tank with one I can control and lower the temp a bit. It seems a little less consistent than with my nice Fluval digital heater. I feed them a mix of Bug Bites, flake food, and shrimp pellets. I'm not sure what to do, or if there is anything to do.
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Jun 14, 2018 00:46
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Bonster posted:Looks like Japanese Flag rush for the spiky one. I think the volume of the pond is about 378 gallons - assuming the water is two feet deep. It is certainly higher than that now due to all the rain we’ve had. I am reading about shubunkin goldfish now - thanks for that idea, I like their look on first blush. Thanks also for the idea as to what that spikey plant may be. schwein11 fucked around with this message at 01:41 on Jun 14, 2018 |
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Jun 14, 2018 01:35
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Facebook Aunt posted:IIRC from a previous post they don't feed these fish at all. They live off algae and plants in the water. So it makes sense that the fish are 'shy', from their perspective nothing good every happens at the surface of the water. There is no food at the surface, only predators. This is right - the fish eat the algae in the pond and we don’t feed them at all. Previous owners said you can feed them and train them to come to the food but they just never bothered. Although I’m sure my kids would love that, I am pretty happy with having them eat off the algae in a contained ecosystem sort of way.
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Jun 14, 2018 01:37
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Yeaaaaah letting kids feed doesnt end well.
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Jun 14, 2018 01:44
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Synthbuttrange posted:Yeaaaaah letting kids feed doesnt end well. It's fine if it's done with supervision and the food is kept out of reach. Also depends on the age of the kids.
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Jun 14, 2018 02:08
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Bonster posted:It's fine if it's done with supervision and the food is kept out of reach. Also depends on the age of the kids. They're 3 and 6 and have been pretty good about the pond so far (not throwing toys or themselves in, for example), and understand that fish have to be fed in moderation due to the betta fish we've had for a while. I don't know whether introducing another food source will make them reliant on that and uninterested in the algae? but yeah, i definitely get the hazards of kid-feeding.
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Jun 14, 2018 02:28
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They'll still eat the algae, just give them a small amount of food once a day at the same time. If you add more fish, you might up it to twice a day. We feed our koi and goldfish twice a day and they still easily keep the pond clear. Our pond is around 800 gallons, currently with four large koi and three large goldfish, they get a generous handful each time. You could probably do a heaping tablespoon and have happy fish that would be interested in coming to you.
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Jun 14, 2018 02:46
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SocketWrench posted:Fish are one thing. I don't think plants would work too well without planting them with the same soil they were in and giving them the same water qualities. Changing plant environments like that is stressful on the plant and makes it really easy to kill off or melt. Ok thanks. Just got some Flourite rinsed off and in the tank (20 gallon), putting the water in tomorrow. Any recommendation on good hearty plants to start with? The local fish store has all kinds of poo poo to chose from, I wanna make sure I get something thats robust to start out with. Also thinking of putting some wood and/or rocks in there, wanting to keep it natural looking as possible. Also any tips on cycling a tank are welcome as well, tia.
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Jun 14, 2018 03:49
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Applebees Appetizer posted:Ok thanks. Just got some Flourite rinsed off and in the tank (20 gallon), putting the water in tomorrow. Cycling talk, get a basic test kit so you know where your levels are at. Do a YouTube on nitrogen cycle if you haven't yet as it will help. Start your cycle using either liquid ammonia, or if you can't be bothered like me, pinch some fish food in there
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Jun 14, 2018 04:09
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Bonster posted:Ah, that makes sense. In that case, I wouldn't add more. You have to maintain a functioning ecosystem and if they're not getting outside food, you can't have a big stocking load. Personal opinion, scrap your heater. Automatic heaters are garbage. Get one you can set to temp Applebees Appetizer posted:Ok thanks. Just got some Flourite rinsed off and in the tank (20 gallon), putting the water in tomorrow. I've always had the best luck with java ferns and mosses. Didn't do too bad with the Anubias either. After two years I even got it to flower. Never had any luck with tall grasses despite everyone saying Vals are pretty hardy Trying a couple Aponogeton Ulvaceus bulbs right now. One started growing like mad, the other though seems stunted despite both bulbs having pretty much the same conditions On a separate note I've run my 29 gal with two hob filters, one at either end, but now I've decided to try and build an over tank sump filter to replace them since both are starting to make very bad noises (both are 3 years old now). I figure not only can I get the benefits of a lot more filter space, but having the pump submerged means if the power cuts out and back on it won't have to fight to suck up water like the hob filters do. Plus I have a shitload of bio-balls I've never been able to use SocketWrench fucked around with this message at 10:21 on Jun 14, 2018 |
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Jun 14, 2018 10:07
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SocketWrench posted:Personal opinion, scrap your heater. Automatic heaters are garbage. Get one you can set to temp Thank you for reaffirming my thoughts! Now I can justify purchasing another heater.
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Jun 14, 2018 14:50
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Mozi posted:Just starting to dip my toe into this whole thing... Finally got it all planted up.  In complete seriousness planting the cryptocorne was one of the most frustrating things I've ever done. I've gained a lot of respect for those on Youtube who are both able to do this effectively and without copious, loud swearing. Mine still looks pretty shabby IMO but the more I touch it the worse it gets, so I'll let time finish the work for me hopefully.
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Jun 14, 2018 22:11
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Bonster posted:Thank you for reaffirming my thoughts! Now I can justify purchasing another heater. I had one that cost 50 bucks and it worked fine for a few months, then it started overheating at times and then not heating others. There's no real way to check if it is broken either until it's far too late. It's just too easy for one to destroy your tank. I mentioned it before, but I read way back in this thread to get two heaters that are a bit lower power than one for your tank so they work together over a bigger space instead of making a hot zone. Plus if one fails the other should be able to handle the load till you can replace them, kind of a fail safe instead of putting everything into one heater.
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Jun 15, 2018 07:28
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They cost a little more, but switching to a titanium heater with a separate temperature controller is a good idea. After cooking a tank full of shellies when a heater went out I switched all of my remaining tanks to that style.
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Jun 15, 2018 14:28
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I guess if the eggs are there they HAVE to lay them.  That's 80+ more eggs, and they haven't been getting live worms (it's too cold, and the worms aren't productive at the moment) or any special treatment beyond a couple of extra water changes. I hope they snack on most of those but this particular laying tactic produces a strongly adhesive mass and the eggs closest to the glass are protected and usually don't get eaten. Looks like more of these are fertile this time too. I'll leave them to set then maybe try removing them all in one giant lump. edit: looks to be more again this evening, spread all over the tank. Too many eggs! Stoca Zola fucked around with this message at 10:22 on Jun 16, 2018 |
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Jun 16, 2018 09:28
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First wigglers from last week's eggs are hatching. I'm not going to go nuts with live food this time, just going to see how they do on fry food and ground up stuff. I had planned to give the first batch of bigger fry to their new owner this week but then I remembered she's running an fx6 on that tank and the intake is huge. She's had to rescue kuhlie loaches from the filter multiple times and I'm wondering if it's worth waiting until my guys are a bit bigger. Anyone got an fx6? Any opinions on whether they eat small fish? I think kuhlies don't count because they actively try to post themselves in places they don't belong.
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Jun 20, 2018 05:52
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Stoca Zola posted:First wigglers from last week's eggs are hatching. I'm not going to go nuts with live food this time, just going to see how they do on fry food and ground up stuff. Sponge filter on the intake. Bought one of these bad boys for my canister and it's lovely for everything. Super shimp friendly Filter Max
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Jun 20, 2018 06:09
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Yeah that looks pretty good, shipping to AU isn’t terrible either. I already have DIY sponges on every inlet I can on my tanks and I once convinced the FX6 owner to try putting some pantyhose over the strainer to save her molly/guppy/swordtail fry but it sounds like whatever she did clogged too easily so she spat the dummy and won’t put anything on there that will require maintenance. Using the purge to flush the FX6 is about all she manages to do maintenance wise, and I think she does top ups more so than water changes but the tank is planted and the fish all seem happy. I can’t fault her either, she’s got chronic illnesses, a new baby with special needs and a lot of people in her position would just get out of the hobby; she got an FX6 to do all the work for her instead. I did find a big close up pic of the strainer and it has twice as many bars on it as I thought it did, they’re offset low profile then high profile and I’d been thinking the grille was only the high profile bars so it might not be as dangerous as I first thought. Maybe I’m just looking for an excuse to hold on to my babies just a little bit longer :/ but I know I can’t keep them forever. I got a new canister myself this week, which in theory will be for the 60cm cube tank once I’ve got that set up. It’s an Eheim Ecco Pro300 and I’ve currently got it running on a barrel of last weeks fish poop water that I hadn’t tipped on the garden yet. I picked it on the basis that it had some kind of self priming mechanism; all my other canisters (fluval 206 and a couple of generic marineland equivalents) have either a priming button or a priming knob to pull and I am sick to death of getting blisters trying to prime my pumps; I think there’s something wrong with my skin since crushing up tetra colour granules between thumb and forefinger while feeding my fish also gives me blisters. The Eheim seems to have a bypass mode where the filter pump sucks from the inlet directly to the outlet to get the siphon started and then you can switch it back to regular mode to get the canister filled. Works really well, as long as no air gets trapped in the hoses, which shouldn’t be a problem if they are cut to the right size. Hopefully I can just rinse all the new media of dust and remove any other residue using the old tank water then get it cycling by running it on one of my existing tanks and hopefully it will be all ready to go by the time the cube is ready. I made a big mistake on Monday which I only discovered today - I forgot to put the cubes of gel food back into the fridge. They were slimy and absolutely foul by the time I realised. I’m just going to feed it all to the new grindal worm cultures I’ve set up so it doesn’t go to waste. One of the worst smells I’ve had come from the fish room ever, probably worse than a bad microworm culture 
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Jun 20, 2018 20:41
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^ I found pantyhose works IF you have decently clean water and clean things living inside it. If you have any muck at all it just clogs the hose up because it's too fine and small. Sponge is definitely the way to go because you'll get more surface area so if it gets clogged a bit there's more space to draw water in fromw00tmonger posted:Sponge filter on the intake. Bought one of these bad boys for my canister and it's lovely for everything. Super shimp friendly Didn't buy that, but yeah, sponge filter definitely if you're gonna have tiny poo poo like shrimp and fry SocketWrench fucked around with this message at 06:15 on Jun 23, 2018 |
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Jun 23, 2018 06:11
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So, ugh, one of my Blue Acaras seems to be missing an eye. Is this a kind of thing it can recover from and become a badass pirate fish, or that pretty much game over? I moved it to a bucket because the others were picking on it, but I have a spare tank I could quickly set up as a hospital if that would make sense. At least my third attempt with RCS in another tank is finally successful and it seems that I'll soon have a gazillion of them.
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Jun 23, 2018 13:51
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I have some hair algae that is spreading in my tank, only going to stock it next week with some shrimp and snails that should help, but other than removing it manually is there anything else I should do? I changed to a 4-4-4 light schedule a few days ago as well. I'm also adding just .5ml of Excel every few days (it's a ~4gal tank).
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Jun 23, 2018 13:59
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mobby_6kl posted:So, ugh, one of my Blue Acaras seems to be missing an eye. Is this a kind of thing it can recover from and become a badass pirate fish, or that pretty much game over? I moved it to a bucket because the others were picking on it, but I have a spare tank I could quickly set up as a hospital if that would make sense. If he still looks otherwise healthy, you've got a potential badass pirate fish. I've seen fish live years and years after losing an eye.
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Jun 23, 2018 15:57
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Mozi posted:I have some hair algae that is spreading in my tank, only going to stock it next week with some shrimp and snails that should help, but other than removing it manually is there anything else I should do? I changed to a 4-4-4 light schedule a few days ago as well. I'm also adding just .5ml of Excel every few days (it's a ~4gal tank). I pretty much always see hair algae when the lighting is too strong. I wouldn't use Excel in a tank that small, not sure how fast it gets used up (edit: it apparently decomposes within 12 hours) and its a pretty potent herbicide/disinfectant; just thinking, you might get better results if you spot treat the algae with Excel rather than dosing the whole tank. With the lighting schedule, in one of my little tanks 4-4-4 was fine and got rid of hair algae in a week or two, but my main big tank I've dropped it to just 5 hours a day until the algae settles down. Manual removal and smaller photo-period are a good start anyway. Might be better adding actual ferts for your faster growing plants instead of excel, although if I recall you only have one stem plant so maybe adding some floating plants might help? Wait and see though, you've changed your lighting so don't change anything else for a week or so to give time for the results to be apparent.
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Jun 23, 2018 16:51
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Enos Cabell posted:If he still looks otherwise healthy, you've got a potential badass pirate fish. I've seen fish live years and years after losing an eye.  I'll keep him quarantined for a while and hopefully he'll get better soon.
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Jun 23, 2018 19:24
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mobby_6kl posted:He didn't look that great, but I guess losing an eye would do that to you Hope he pulls through, blue acara are awesome fish. I had one named Ted a few years ago and I miss him because he was also my dog. In cory news I'm seeing about 5 or so at a time half inch babies, and at least one more batch of smaller ones. I'm also the living embodiment of the thread title because using the Hikari first bites has led to an explosion of snails. Been trapping the fuckers for days now and it's just an endless supply of little pest snails. They're out-breeding the goddamned MTS! I'm half-tempted to get a bunch of pea puffers and just have a catfish and puffer tank, but I feel like all puffers are supreme dickheads that can't be trusted with anything.
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Jun 24, 2018 00:20
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Ok so I have my native tank up and running, added some plants first and a piece of driftwood from the local fish store. Caught some fish and they seem to be doing well so far, mostly Mollys (one dalmation!) and mosquito fish, some shrimp and two small crayfish. I added some native plants even tho SocketWrench said not to just to see what would happen......And they are doing well so far. The fish gravitated right to them eating the algae off them, so it might have been a good idea if just to comfort the wild fish to have something from their natural habitat. I'll keep an eye on them but so far they are doing better than the store bought plants which brings me to this question. How do i know if the LED lights are enough or too much? The guy at the fish store said they should be 10 to 15 watts but I have no clue how to tell what the wattage is on them. I kinda messed up at first thinking sunlight would be enough for the first few days and they started turning opaque, I'm hoping they bounce back. I also added a moss ball, and i'm going to start testing the water here soon.   The plant in the right corner is a native plant, the one to the left turning brown is store bought. Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 00:05 on Jun 25, 2018 |
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Jun 24, 2018 23:28
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It's pretty normal for sword plants to melt leaves if they were previously grown emersed and have now been submerged; the leaves have to convert to a form that survives submerged and the old leaves rot and fall off. I am not 100% sure what your store bought plants are but leaves that big are usually only seen on sword plants. The wattage of your LEDs doesn't matter that much, since it won't tell you how bright the light is at the bottom of your tank. On a 30cm tall tank a 10 watt light is more effective than on a 60cm tall tank so you can't judge by watts alone. To my eye your tank looks adequately lit, and you'll soon tell if you have too much light by how much algae you are able to grow. Just wait and see what happens, you might need to leave your lights on for a shorter period to combat that but time will tell. Sword plants do require fertilizer at their roots which is doable fairly easily using root tabs but I don't think that's related to the leaf melting you're seeing.
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Jun 26, 2018 12:56
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Stoca Zola posted:I pretty much always see hair algae when the lighting is too strong. I wouldn't use Excel in a tank that small, not sure how fast it gets used up (edit: it apparently decomposes within 12 hours) and its a pretty potent herbicide/disinfectant; just thinking, you might get better results if you spot treat the algae with Excel rather than dosing the whole tank. With the lighting schedule, in one of my little tanks 4-4-4 was fine and got rid of hair algae in a week or two, but my main big tank I've dropped it to just 5 hours a day until the algae settles down. Manual removal and smaller photo-period are a good start anyway. Might be better adding actual ferts for your faster growing plants instead of excel, although if I recall you only have one stem plant so maybe adding some floating plants might help? Wait and see though, you've changed your lighting so don't change anything else for a week or so to give time for the results to be apparent. Thanks... I think the Excel really screwed up a lot of my plants, about half of the cryptocorne's roots melted and they detached from the ground and floated up, and it killed some of the anubias as well. Hair algae is still there and now has a better hold on some of the remaining plants. I'm kind of frustrated that there's no mention on the Excel bottle that it can have these sorts of effects. Just hoping things can sort of stabilize from here... at least the wisteria is doing OK.
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Jun 26, 2018 14:48
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Stoca Zola posted:Sword plants do require fertilizer at their roots which is doable fairly easily using root tabs but I don't think that's related to the leaf melting you're seeing. You think it may be because i didn't give them any light for the first few days? They are swords btw, I got two big ones and a small one and they are all melting. They guy at the store said they are the toughest plants lol. The wild plants I put in are doing great, so I'm just going to get more of those since the mollys seem to love them. Also been reading up on mollys and they are some pretty incredible fish. Apparently they need lots of room so I'm going to take out the mosquito fish. Also taking the crayfish out because one already killed a molly, I thought they were small enough but apparently not.
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Jun 26, 2018 19:40
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The swords will melt when moved - mine 1/2 melted when I just moved them 6 inches in my tank after about 6 months. Leave them be, they'll come back looking fantastic.
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Jun 26, 2018 19:46
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