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What's the point of clutch delay valves? They're in almost every MT car these days and almost universally reviled.
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Jun 24, 2018 03:14
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Previa_fun posted:What's the point of clutch delay valves? They're in almost every MT car these days and almost universally reviled. They are supposed ease up shock to the drivetrain and supposedly helps brand new to manual drivers learn. In effect it causes experienced drivers to be unable to shift smoothly, especially 1-2 and 2-3. In the Civic, there is also a pretty severe rev-hang in the stock tune introduced by throttle padding, ie the throttle plate doesn't close as soon as you let off the gas and engage the clutch, rather it slowly ramps down the throttle to give the car better manners when shifting. Pretty much every aftermarket tune has the ability to remove the throttle padding feature or even adjust it as you see fit. There are several other adjustments that can be made, particularly with KTuner, that makes it feel like a real manual car again. Ultimately it allows you to shift faster and smoother by removing it. Shartweek fucked around with this message at 03:29 on Jun 24, 2018 |
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Jun 24, 2018 03:27
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Would recommend tossing some Loctite on those RMM bolts if you didn't already (particularly the bolt going into the frame). After replacing motor mounts on my MS3, I had to re-tighten the bolts several times until eventually I decided to just remove and install them again with Loctite. No problems after that.
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Jun 24, 2018 04:41
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Nah nah nah. If you don't hate yourself and have a spare $10, use nord locks. I had to keep re-doing the CV axle bolts on my VW bus with a very shakey engine over a couple of months, and even red loctite didn't hold. ONE installation of the appropriate nord locks and they stayed on for the next year no issue, and I could remove them easily.
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Jun 24, 2018 05:04
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Huh, I've never seen those; learned something new today. I may try those out next time.
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Jun 24, 2018 15:34
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They're awesome, and literally the only lock washer that actually works. Washers are useful for spreading load and preventing damage to surfaces, but lock washers are proven to not do poo poo. Loctite works, as long as the surfaces inside and out are clean, but then you've got to deal with heat for removal. Nord locks don't give a poo poo if it's dirty or not, and can be reused many times. I sound like a shill but they saved my rear end so many times with that shaky ACVW.
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Jun 24, 2018 17:16
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Short shift adapter is installed, getting the disassembly of the center console down to about 30 minutes, these are really well designed and put together cars. Simple to work on in comparision to my last VWs and the Fiesta ST. Here are two shots of the assembly with the center console removed.   Removing the blue bushing from the bottom of the shifter arm was pretty straight forward, just pop it off with needle nose pliers. Cleaned out the old grease, installed new grease, pressed in the new short throw adapter, then reassembled.    Here is a shot of the entire assembly with all of the Acuity parts installed.  From top to bottom: 172g stainless core, acetal shell shift knob. Shift boot collar nut for flat bottomed knobs (giggety). Shifter centering spring, 50% increase in centering force. Shifter rocker arm, stiffens the shifter gates and reduces the side-to-side throw by 11%. Short throw adapter, 24% reduction in front to back throw. Shifter base bushings replace the OEM rubber with aluminum. And here is two shots of their shifter cable bushings which replace the OEM rubber with acetal and aluminum. Before:  After:  I also installed their accelerator pedal relocation bracket which has 3 adjustable positions to suit the drivers heel toe preference. It brings the pedal really close to the driver so adjusting the seat all the way down to the floor and far enough back to just be comfortable enough to use the clutch makes this a great upgrade.  That's it so far along with the stage 1 K-Tuner VitViper tune which is 19.5 PSI of boost in normal mode and 25 PSI in sport along with all kinds of nice changes to throttle behavior. No other power mods yet, I intend to go full big turbo with PRL's kit running the GTX2860R. I'm thinking maybe around the end of the year, this will also require getting a clutch that can hold the increased power levels, I'm hoping ACT has something by then because so far there are only the Clutch Masters FX line and Spec's just released line but no reviews of those thus far.
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Jun 24, 2018 18:51
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Mr-Spain posted:
I actually need tires for my '15 SS too, I'll probably go with those as well. My radio died in the SS 10 days out of warranty. GM offered to cover 50% of it so I went with that at about $600 out of pocket. The new radio has a 12 month warranty too. I talked them into giving me the most updated maps/software, but as you are aware the mylink in these cars seems like it is from 2001 and I usually just use Waze on my cell phone anyway. Also,  Kooks long tube headers -> Kooks green catted x pipe -> magnaflow 14419 resonators -> stock mufflers I tried to find '16 or '17 bimodal mufflers to retrofit (with WOT switch to activate them) but they are millions of dollars if you buy them new and I can't find used ones.
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Jun 24, 2018 20:55
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gently caress this weekend and gently caress subarus. Firstly, the engine I had found for resurrecting my C70 got sniped out from under me. Then I went to do a clutch on my old 323k mile Forester. Started out badly because the hoist at work had inexplicably disappeared, so I wasted a lot of time and money driving to harbor freight, buying a hoist, assembling it. Actual time to remove engine ~50minutes. Get the engine out and the old clutch/flywheel off, discover the oil seperator plate (subaru thing, part of the PCV system, dumb as gently caress) is leaking. Spend an hour calling around to find a parts house in the area that can get one by sunday morning. Still feeling pretty decent about this overall. Wake up, get new part, install that, install new clutch/fw, install engine. Button everything back up, aaaaand the slave cylinder shits itself. Fine, whatever, it's 5 minutes to go buy the part and another 5 minutes to install it, hail based subaru for that small kindness. Except....that wasn't the full issue, because the master cylinder had died. Probably both of them were on their way out and contributed to the death of my old clutch. Everything felt fine with the old parts but whatever. And at this point my wrenching buddy had to get back to his place in maryland so we cleaned up the shop, rolled my shitheap outside, and called it a day. Tomorrow after work I get to replace the MC and hope like hell nothing else decides to break. gently caress subarus in fairness to it I guess the hoist is not subaru's fault but jfc what an awful weekend. It is a nice hoist, way better than the other one I have. Oh yeah. The icing, nay, the cherry atop this layercake of excrement? Snapchat hit me up this morning with some Snapchat Memories from a year ago today. Exactly one year ago I was...loving INSTALLING AN ENGINE INTO THIS PIECE OF poo poo SUBARU thanks for reading tl,dr; my 4 hour clutch job got turned into a loving 15 hour, $350 rollercoaster of dogshit Terrible Robot fucked around with this message at 03:03 on Jun 25, 2018 |
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Jun 25, 2018 03:01
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doogle posted:I actually need tires for my '15 SS too, I'll probably go with those as well. Si guy - the shifter cable bushings alone made worlds of difference on my 08 si. Good luck looks like a good build you have going. Doogle that’s going to sound sick. I found a guy selling the bimodals on the Facebook buy/sell group for 300 but they just sold before I could snag them. Crazy good deal. Like the Firestone’s great so far going to run them up a road down here and see how they compare to stock, but so far so good.
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Jun 25, 2018 03:08
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Count me in on the "didn't replace the oil separator plate when doing a clutch on a Subaru and it leaked immediately after" club. Well, I mean, you did, but same sentiment. Mine was only leaking a tiny bit and only hit the exhaust on the freeway, so I wrapped the Y pipe with fiberglass and a literal pie tin and it stopped smoking at that first light on the off-ramp. It's whoever has it now's problem.
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Jun 25, 2018 03:20
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This is literally the 4th time I've pulled an engine out of a subaru (6th if including other people's subarus [gently caress subarus]) and only the first time I've actually had to replace the seperator. Every other time it's been fine or already replaced by someone else. Of course this is also only the second time I've pulled an engine out of a Subaru and put the same one back in. gently caress Subarus.
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Jun 25, 2018 03:26
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Coolnezzz posted:They are supposed ease up shock to the drivetrain and supposedly helps brand new to manual drivers learn. In effect it causes experienced drivers to be unable to shift smoothly, especially 1-2 and 2-3. In the Civic, there is also a pretty severe rev-hang in the stock tune introduced by throttle padding, ie the throttle plate doesn't close as soon as you let off the gas and engage the clutch, rather it slowly ramps down the throttle to give the car better manners when shifting. Pretty much every aftermarket tune has the ability to remove the throttle padding feature or even adjust it as you see fit. There are several other adjustments that can be made, particularly with KTuner, that makes it feel like a real manual car again. Dear god I had no idea this existed. That is about as bad as forcing the 2-5 upshift in a Corvette for MPG ratings under moderate acceleration. Looks like a solution looking for a problem given the % of manuals made. I weep.
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Jun 25, 2018 03:30
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C-Bangin' it 
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Changed the oil in my gfs Toyota echo. 1L came out, I distinctly recall putting 4L in 6months ago  guess I should keep an eye on it. Did the cabin filter and air filter on my evo. Both pretty nasty. SST fluid and filter next weekend since the online store didn't bother to tell me they ship the trans filter from a different location than the air filter  Gotta say tho, those oil pain/oil jug hybrids are the best loving thing. Zero mess.
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Jun 25, 2018 05:57
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Terrible Robot posted:gently caress this weekend and gently caress subarus. Terrible Robot posted:Of course this is also only the second time I've pulled an engine out of a Subaru and put the same one back in. Is kastein posting under your account? 
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Jun 25, 2018 06:32
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STR posted:Is kastein posting under your account? Ken and I have actually had extremely similar experiences with our first generation Foresters, except that mine have involved 99% less rust and I don't have a thread so my unceasing stream of problems with this cursed vehicle aren't all in one easy to find place.
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Jun 25, 2018 06:35
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Repost from my Z thread: Nissan tried to get to fancy with their recirc valves, they work on some weird method of pressure differential, when you convert to dual intakes the engine will create a weird harmonic vibration that tricks the recircs to open and close quickly (it makes the sound of a goose honking), here is my journey to correct that goose honk:  Uncorrected factory recirc valve.  Ground a small part away and tapped a screwdriver through to open up the lid. I did a bunch of filing/smoothing and cleaning after this pic  A helper spring is underneath the new press fit cap. Had to clean off the excess rtv, letting it cure for 24 hours before using.
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Jun 25, 2018 16:49
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Rhyno posted:I remembered that I own a Miata so I went to Dad's house and picked it up. How does that compare to the sensation of finding a forgotten $20 bill in a pocket of a jacket you haven't worn for a few years? I just tried really hard but I cannot for the life of me ever remember owning a Miata, but I'm gonna check all my coats when I get home.
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Jun 25, 2018 17:17
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ExecuDork posted:How does that compare to the sensation of finding a forgotten $20 bill in a pocket of a jacket you haven't worn for a few years? I just tried really hard but I cannot for the life of me ever remember owning a Miata, but I'm gonna check all my coats when I get home. Not much different really.
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Jun 25, 2018 18:14
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This morning I wrapped the only chrome on the entire car (aside from the H logos) in matte black vinyl, it makes for a huge improvement in appearance. That chrome upper window trim is awful. Before:  After:   I have Eibach pro-kit springs and SPC rear camber arms ready to go in, hopefully next weekend. Then tint on Monday and I'll be set until I get sick of the wheels and get some more Konigs.
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Jun 25, 2018 18:38
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All chrome trim on modern cars is awful. That looks so much better!
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Jun 25, 2018 18:39
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Delete all chrome forever
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Jun 25, 2018 22:57
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Found the puncture in my drivers side rear tire after noticing a slow leak on Saturday. Almost made it 4k miles. There goes $800+. Smokey burnout videos should be incoming soon...
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Jun 25, 2018 23:38
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I did a lovely job of modifying my zx2's flasher module to work with LED bulbs before:    after https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6SmZOISXdF8   It uses an IC labeled U6431B (it's hidden under two of the relays) to do the flashing and I couldnt find the exact datasheet for it https://www.alldatasheet.com/view.jsp?Searchword=u6431b One of the similar ICs allows you to disable bulb-out detection by shorting the shunt resistor, but when I replaced the shunt with a beefy jumper the flasher just stopped working so I had to put the thing back in. I accidentally broke a diode and had to patch in a new one (the white wires hanging off). The potentiometer replaces the resistor between the load and the load sense pin of the IC. LED bulbs won't pull down the voltage enough to activate the IC so I used the potentiometer to find a resistance in range to start the flashing (it won't work if the pull down is too much so I cant just short that pin to the load). tldr: this is a pain in the rear end just use incandescents, especially when your flasher module costs $80 and breaking it means most of the lighting stops working
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Jun 26, 2018 05:00
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Went to Pick n Pull... shopping list: At least one MAP sensor for my car (06 Ion) (they seem to be a common failure, at least for me) Door check for GF's car (05 Matrix) Factory subwoofer and door lamp lenses for mom's car (03 Avalon) Left rear window regulator and left front inside door handle for friend's car (09 HHR) Center console cover for stepdad's truck (01 F-150 Lariat) What I left with: 3 MAP sensors, all the same part number, from an 04 Ion, 08 Equinox, 06 HHR. The one from the Equinox wound up having a bunch of oil on it, so I doubt it's good... but these were obtained under junkyard rules, so meh. Door lamp lenses for mom's car, from an 02 (it also had the factory sub, but had been rear ended so hard that the rear deck was crumpled - couldn't get the sub out) Door check from an 04 Corolla (also gently caress YOU Toyota for riveting the speakers in, it was a pain in the dick to grab the door check when it fell into the door) Couldn't find a single 10th gen XLT Lariat - almost every 10th gen F-150 was either an XL with a bench seat, or an XLT with cloth (so no leather console covers) Left front window regulator for friend's car  (and no door handle, fucker is held in with a Torx screw... didn't have my torx bits on me)Swapped one map sensor into my car, ghettorigged the window on friend's HHR to stay up for now (the cable broke and it fell into the door a couple of weeks ago - wedged it up with a ton of cardboard between the window and door), and I'm gonna try to return the front window regulator tomorrow... and pull a rear one. And this time take my torx bits. And some loving sunblock. I wound up there for 2 1/2 hours... my shoulders look and feel like a boiled lobster.  i was pretty surprised to find a Denso window regulator in a Chevy. The design is nearly identical to the one in my mom's Avalon, except the cable spool is enclosed on the Chevy part. Thinking the one MAP I swapped in may be bad (hence why I grabbed 3) - the car was hesitating a bit after the swap. I'll hook up my OBD2 dongle and see what's going on tomorrow, but I'm expecting the CEL to pop back on. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:07 on Jun 26, 2018 |
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Jun 26, 2018 05:05
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Uhh, you know you could have just bought LEDs labeled as Canbus compatible and they'd have come with load resistors, right? I'm all for playing with electronics, but there was an easier way here. E: holy poo poo, torx fasteners on a Chevy? I thought only ze Germans used that everywhere. Bajaha fucked around with this message at 05:12 on Jun 26, 2018 |
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Jun 26, 2018 05:08
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A lot of "canbus" LEDs with the resistors are unsuitable for continuous running, and can actually get quite hot even when just flashing. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tkPGqM0Sl64 I've run into this personally. Plus, why go through the trouble of LEDs for no power savings? Converting can net you like 5-10 amps if done right, which is pretty big especially for older cars or those running on the edge of the alternator's limits. Personally, I'd have gone with an off-the-shelf electronic flasher, but even those can be flaky or incompatible sometimes. I mark which ones I buy that actually work. A cheaper way is a load resistor on the flasher itself, but even that can cause issues (especially with applications that would require diodes and flasher circuits that switch polarity between left and right, I'm looking at you VW).
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Jun 26, 2018 05:10
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Load resistors on the circuit itself also come with the issue of typically being installed via vampire taps which, while kinda clever, are almost always the wrong way to tap into a circuit. Didn't realise just how unsuited those resistors on the canbus bulbs are, from the designs I saw I figured they were on the lower edge of an acceptable load and that they used a large enough resistor package to dissipate enough heat to the pads.
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Jun 26, 2018 05:24
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I mean, I guarantee that there are proper "canbus" LEDs out there with maybe active load circuitry or other ways of mitigating the heat like size or heatsinks, but they're so damned impossible to find nowadays with the flood of overseas $.25-in-componentry parts. Even Amazon is having huge issues with counterfeits and piggyback listings.
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Jun 26, 2018 05:35
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I would have used another flasher if there was one for this model. The flasher looks like two separate 5-pin units until you open it up. Power, ground, and the front lights are on the blue connector. Rear lights and the control signals are on the yellow connector. It also controls the brake lights except for the center light above the trunk. I would have to rig together a harness adapter and several universal relays + a LED flasher for it to work.
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Jun 26, 2018 05:38
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Bajaha posted:Uhh, you know you could have just bought LEDs labeled as Canbus compatible and they'd have come with load resistors, right? Yeah... even the goddamned door panels are held on with torx screws on the HHR. I had no clue when I pulled the window regulator, as someone had already removed the door panel. I did notice once inside the door that the 2 bolts attaching the window to the regulator are combination hex/torx.  On my car, WHICH IS BUILT ON THE SAME loving PLATFORM, the taillights are held on by (T10?) torx screws (really annoying when a bulb burns out), and the side rails on the roof are also held on with those. The rearview mirror is also torx. Everything else is either hex screws/bolts or phillips screws. I bought a 1/4" drive torx set on sale a few months back, I'm really glad I did now. edit: GM uses female torx screws/bolts, I think ze Germans tend to use male torx? GM generally only uses it on small poo poo, from what I've seen. Also, I've been wanting to go to "switchback" LEDs for the front of my car, but... my car runs the front turn signals at full power as daytime running lights anytime the car is running and the parking brake is off (automatic versions run them anytime the car isn't in park). So those resistors would get hot.as.gently caress. and let the magic smoke out in a hurry. Especially with me being in the car 6+ hours a day. The flasher module is part of the BCM, so there's really no easy way to trick it into thinking there's incandescents without some really beefy resistors that can handle long term heat, or just hiding some incandescents somewhere. GM did some truly weird poo poo with DRLs. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 07:00 on Jun 26, 2018 |
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Jun 26, 2018 06:57
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STR posted:edit: GM uses female torx screws/bolts, I think ze Germans tend to use male torx? GM generally only uses it on small poo poo, from what I've seen. Pretty sure my calipers on my old Silverado had giant torx bits. But I may be misremembering. Definitely not unheard of.
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Jun 26, 2018 16:55
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Ok so the bulbs don't draw enough when the parking lights are on so it won't flash while I have parking/headlights on. Tried adjusting it some but it's just too little current. Gave up and put all the incandescents back in and readjusted the flasher to work with them again. Gonna see if oreillys will let me return the LEDs. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SlA9hmrC8DU&t=145s Edit: nope, bulbs arent returnable 
brand engager fucked around with this message at 17:11 on Jun 26, 2018 |
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Jun 26, 2018 17:01
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brand engager posted:I did a lovely job of modifying my zx2's flasher module to work with LED bulbs I got lucky on my '05 Crown Vic. It uses the infamous Lighting Control Module that handles ALL the lighting (and is the subject of a recall due to the relay handling the headlights being under-spec and burning out.) Fortunately, the way the flashers work is the flasher enable comes in from the turn signal switch, then back out of the LCM to be routed to the appropriate signals, so you can literally cut both wires, and connect them to a bog-standard 2-pin flasher module suitable for LEDs. Bajaha posted:Uhh, you know you could have just bought LEDs labeled as Canbus compatible and they'd have come with load resistors, right? GM has been using Torx since the late '70s, early '80s. Metal Geir Skogul posted:I've run into this personally. Plus, why go through the trouble of LEDs for no power savings? Converting can net you like 5-10 amps if done right, which is pretty big especially for older cars or those running on the edge of the alternator's limits. Personally, I'd have gone with an off-the-shelf electronic flasher, but even those can be flaky or incompatible sometimes. I mark which ones I buy that actually work. A cheaper way is a load resistor on the flasher itself, but even that can cause issues (especially with applications that would require diodes and flasher circuits that switch polarity between left and right, I'm looking at you VW). Part of the reason I like LEDs, beyond reduced power draw, is the reduced heat generated (which, if you think about it, amounts to the same thing), so the CANBUS resistor bulbs are just a fail all around. I guess you could argue that they still look cool, but I'm more interested in the longevity and low-power benefits.
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Jun 26, 2018 19:02
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Fixed the dent in my Panda. Now much less noticeable: Also fitted replacement braided fuel lines onto the K-Jet system on my Saab 99 as one of the 40 yo plastic ones had snapped after i mistakenly touched it. It starts better and runs much smoother now. I suspect one had been leaking for ages. Then started to respray the drivers door of the Saab and while waiting for paint to dry began to polish the existing paint on the boot lid to see if I can avoid having to respray it..
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Jun 27, 2018 00:03
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Wheel bearing day! I... cheaped out on the bearing. Hopefully that doesn't bite me in the rear end. The friend that put it in for me chided me for not going OEM or Timken, but there was a big price difference that I just couldn't afford when I ordered the bearing. WJB "Heavy Duty" hub/bearing was $33.79 ($60 if I'd gotten it from Amazon), Timken is $84.79, OEM GM is $109.89 (all Rockauto prices). He did admit his main gripe with the cheaper ones is they cause ABS issues (since the wheel speed sensor is part of the hub), but no ABS on my car. Ironically, the last Timken wheel bearing I went with poo poo out after 6 months. Got a good look at the bottom of the car for the first time. Considering it's a MN car, it's not bad at all. Friend that did the work was surprised too, the only significant rust is the exhaust (which has been booger welded in 3 different places, and had a section replaced), and suspension bolts. A little on the front subframe, but it's just surface. The worst is on the bolts that attach the front struts to the control arm.  Rear shocks are leaking, so I'll see what he'll want to charge to R&R them, if I can't break the bolts loose myself. He has a really nice Snap On li-ion impact, but it was jaw droppingly expensive. He swears by Milwaukee for more affordable li-ion tools, and said the Milwaukee electric impact he has at home is almost as good as the Snap On (and cost about 20% of the Snap On). Mentioned I hadn't been able to pop the rear drums off and that I had issues with the parking brake... he asked how I'd been trying to get them off. He told me he was pretty sure he could have them off in less than a minute (once the wheel was off), so long as the shoes weren't worn into a groove. Big Big BFH and 3 or 4 whacks later..  Son of a bitch, rear shoes are drat near new. Just SEVERELY out of adjustment. Adjusters weren't even seized (looks like they got replaced when the shoes did), they just never got adjusted when the shoes were replaced. Parking brake actually holds the car now, and the pedal feel is a night and day difference. He spun both adjusters out 2 or 3 full turns, IIRC, and only had to back them off a couple of clicks on one side. I want the torque wrench he has. Snap On digital that also does degrees. The axle nut is 75 ft/lbs, plus 35 degrees.. no guess with that wrench. randomidiot fucked around with this message at 03:42 on Jun 27, 2018 |
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Jun 27, 2018 03:34
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Tomarse posted:Fixed the dent in my Panda. Now much less noticeable: The greatest PDR of all time.
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Jun 27, 2018 03:36
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PaintVagrant posted:The greatest PDR of all time.
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Jun 27, 2018 04:13
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STR posted:
Yeah, price on that wrench is shall we say not exactly cheap. Been a while since i've done axle nuts, they've gone to a + so many degrees now?
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Jun 27, 2018 14:02
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STR posted:Wheel bearing day! It must have been. Yesterday morning I dropped off my Ranger at a provincially-certified mechanic for my out-of-province inspection (QC -> ON) and the problems they found are - both front wheel bearings - both rear drum brakes ...but nothing about the blown bulbs in the instrument cluster and among the taillights, the clunky and difficult shifting (especially into 2nd), or any other possible problem that a 21-year-old little truck might (does) have that would cause a fail on the capricious and unpredictable OoP inspection. One of the front wheel bearings was replaced in January, part of my Quebec OoP (ON -> QC) inspection dilemma / adventure. The front end of this truck has always been a problem, from the orangutan who re-assembled the front axels for the PO before I bought it (3WD is weird, not recommended) to the exact same problem showing up a year later in another province, to 2018's 3-front-wheel-bearings-for-the-price-of-$$$$ Oh well. Guess I shouldn't move so drat often. Oh, whoops, applications already out there. I'm surprised my cat hasn't murdered me in my sleep yet, she hates long car rides.
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Jun 27, 2018 14:52
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