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Given that the parking brake doesn't really work (it does SOMETHING on the very last click, but not much), and I have trouble locking up the rear brakes even when I stand on the pedal, I'm fairly sure the adjusters haven't done anything in a long time.
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Jun 24, 2018 20:33
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If you feel like there's something catching on the drum, it will be the shoes in their groove. Just because the adjusters are seized now doesn't mean that the shoes can't be trapping the drum from wear that occurred when the adjusters worked.
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Jun 24, 2018 23:45
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I have a couple of dumb questions about service parts. Headlight Globes: is it worth spending any more than just the cheapest name brand replacement? I'm pretty underwhelmed with the headlights in my 2002 Corolla (H7 globe). I know enough not to do an LED swap or get mad HIDZ. My headlights aren't clouded/fogged at all for what it's worth. Wipers: IIRC the Bosch branded wipers are reasonable? Is it worth paying 3x as much for the "performance" line wipers? ($15.99 vs $41.99) Rain-X/Similar products: Worth it? I'd like a windscreen treatment, probably some antifog for the interior and I'd prefer not to have to be replacing/reapplying every week or so. Guessing this stuff works on door mirrors too?
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Jun 25, 2018 01:29
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What kind of weather do you deal with? RainX works fine for rain. For wipers, I buy the cheapest stuff because it gets hot enough here to melt them regardless of the pricetag. I used to like Bosch Icons, but it's been years since I've used them or anything similar so I have no idea how they compare now.
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Jun 25, 2018 01:32
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Melbourne, Australia so plenty of rain in the winter but rarely below 10C, up to 45C in the summer.
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Jun 25, 2018 01:34
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Aquapel is so much better than rainx, but this doesn't mean rainx is bad
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Jun 25, 2018 03:07
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Well looks like my lovely run of doing most of my own car maintenance for ~15 years without needing tools like easy-out's, thread taps, etc is over: The rest of that top plug is quite stuck in cylinder #4 of a Nissan X-Trail (not sure if they are common/exist in US - engine is 2.5L QR25DE which came in mid 2000's sentra's). Weird thing is it actually came out about 4-5 turns before putting up that much of a fight, and after feeling how much resistance it was giving I tried screwing it back in and out a bit, spraying WD40, warming engine up, etc. I actually had to do this for 2 plugs - the other one came out on 2nd attempt, but after 3rd or 4th attempt on this one it got to the point it wasn't going back in OR coming out without using more force than I'd like, so I chose the latter and... Yeah. The plugs were only put in about 5 months ago too. Anyway I know ez-out's are a common solution for this, and the tip of a #5 (this sort) fits in what's left and bites in pretty good, but I've put a fair amount of force into it and it hasn't budged one bit (I've been checking orientation of negative probe to confirm) so I have a couple of questions:
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Jun 25, 2018 03:45
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slothrop posted:Wipers: IIRC the Bosch branded wipers are reasonable? Is it worth paying 3x as much for the "performance" line wipers? ($15.99 vs $41.99) If you're going to go with Bosch wipers, get them from Rockauto. They're insanely cheap on there. But don't trust their application guide for wipers, it's way off (Rockauto claimed my GF's Matrix/Corolla needed 24" blades... it uses an 18 and a 21). Go to Bosch's website and get the part number. I got a set of Bosch Evolutions for $14 from Rockauto, plus $7 shipping. A single Evolution is currently $12-13 (shipped) on Amazon. Icons are overrated IMO, but they're still a lot cheaper on Rockauto vs anywhere else. EightBit posted:If you feel like there's something catching on the drum, it will be the shoes in their groove. Just because the adjusters are seized now doesn't mean that the shoes can't be trapping the drum from wear that occurred when the adjusters worked. They're rusted to the hubs - they don't budge at all when I try to pull on them. That's my issue. I don't think they've ever been off the car, and the car spent at least 4 years in MN. They spin freely with no dragging as well, and spin pretty easily by hand even with the parking brake on (until it's on the last notch).
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Jun 25, 2018 06:11
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slothrop posted:
My H7 lights are acceptable since I installed Philips X-tremeVision bulbs. They're not magic but quite a bit brighter than the bulbs they replaced at least. To me they're worth it, your mileage may vary.
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Jun 25, 2018 06:51
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STR posted:If you're going to go with Bosch wipers, get them from Rockauto. They're insanely cheap on there. Yeah that sizing is odd, everything I can find is saying 24" and 18". Currently on there are 22" and 17", the larger blades look like they should fit so I'm not really sure what to think. It's still cheaper to buy from RockAuto and ship it to goddamn Australia than buy locally too  Invalido posted:My H7 lights are acceptable since I installed Philips X-tremeVision bulbs. They're not magic but quite a bit brighter than the bulbs they replaced at least. To me they're worth it, your mileage may vary. I just repaced the bulbs with some Phillips ones but they're entry level and seem no different. (They were actually sold to me as fitting the e36. They do not. I kept them because they fit my car and blew a blub the next week  ) In keeping with the theme of the thread, can someone school me on headlight globes? I was led to believe that the type of globe isn't important for the application (low beam/highbeam) due to the shape of the fitting. The Corolla headlight fitting (basket? lens?) certainly has a "hood" over the low beam globe. If I look up globes on Rockauto, they have a 90 degree right angle adaptor which my car certainly doesn't use. Again Rock Auto is dirt cheap compared to buying in Australia so if the adaptor simply slips off that'd be great.
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Jun 25, 2018 09:58
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Hence why I said to look up the part number on Bosch's website. Rockauto is generally pretty accurate on most stuff, but wiper blades are a huge exception. Bulbs can be an exception too - especially headlamps. Different markets will use different bulbs, depending on local standards. Most bulbs are universal worldwide, until it comes to headlamps... Is the right angle on the headlamp bulb itself? If so, they're listing the wrong bulb. The bulb itself isn't that different, but wattages may be a little different (5-10W), and the cutouts for mounting may be different. And obviously the plug positioning is different. The key difference, aside from physically mounting it, is the filaments may be in a different spot, which could do anything from nothing different at all, to making other drivers want to murder you, to giving you a tiny bit of super bright light right in front of the car. Look up the bulb type on, say, your country-specific Phillips' website, or your owner's manual. Work from there. Not many globes are US-specific, but Rockauto will certainly be happy to show you the US-specific versions, and the globes that will be US-specific will almost always be headlamp bulbs. I always try to verify anything I'm getting from Rockauto is correct, but that especially goes for anything that's not USDM. Also, GF's car had 22 and 18 on it before I changed them, at least going by how the blades compared to the new ones. She complained that the driver's side seemed to be going a bit high, passenger side just seemed "wrong". The 21 and 17 (crap, I may have said 18 for one of them earlier) definitely seem to be a better fit. The last wiper blades were installed by an oil change place, which had failed her safety inspection due to... you got it, worn wiper blades. And nailed her for something stupid like $40-50 for the most basic generic blades. ... I just hope I never have to do a clutch on her car. She has some... shall we say, very bad clutch habits. She had to replace the original clutch in her car at 80k (miles)... I cringe every time I'm riding with her and see the tach sitting at 4000 for every launch. And she wonders why I don't like to let her drive "my" car (.... it's in her name for a few more weeks, but it has a much slower revving engine and heavier flywheel, at least). randomidiot fucked around with this message at 12:04 on Jun 25, 2018 |
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Jun 25, 2018 11:58
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Stupid but not necessarily AI... I just bought a big metal power rack like this one -  It's got some rust along the bottom and sides. Is there a product used on cars to blow off rust/poo poo metal debris? I'm surprised I don't know the answer to this from working at a body shop. But after all, we're in Texas and we never see rust on vehicles.
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Jun 25, 2018 14:46
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Wire wheel or abrasive disk grind it. If it's not too bad then hand wire brushing and rust converter acid and a "kill rust" type paint topcoat may be good enough. If you can take it to work surely they have a sand/bead/powder blaster? Fo3 fucked around with this message at 15:00 on Jun 25, 2018 |
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Jun 25, 2018 14:57
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Fo3 posted:Wire wheel or abrasive disk grind it. If it's not too bad then hand wire brushing and rust converter acid and a "kill rust" type paint topcoat may be good enough. We do, but this thing is huge, and heavy. It was enough of an ordeal just to get it home. I was thinking more along the lines of a PB blaster compound in a can you could just spray on and wipe off. I thought maybe some northern rust-belt driver AI goon would be familiar with.. But I'll give the wire brushing a shot if nothing else, thanks.
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Jun 25, 2018 16:12
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Dennis McClaren posted:We do, but this thing is huge, and heavy. It was enough of an ordeal just to get it home. Panther Piss?
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Jun 25, 2018 16:18
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Krudkutter or iron x?
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Jun 25, 2018 16:49
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I highly suspect that my new-to-me-for-a-good-price 2005 Honda Pilot has bad wheel bearings. Bought it last Wednesday and took it for a 1,200 mile road trip and noticed a lot of wum-wum-wum noises and steering-wheel-shaking, braking but I'll be doing a more thorough diagnosing tonight after work. Just wanted to ask if anyone has ever been able to purchase a hub/bearing assembly with the bearing already pressed into the hub cuz goddammit I don't wanna deal with that.
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Jun 25, 2018 17:48
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STR posted:If you're going to go with Bosch wipers, get them from Rockauto. They're insanely cheap on there. Dude, I'm trying to help you avoid a frustrating headache. The shoes can trap the drums on without dragging, and what you describe really makes me think that they will do that to you (lots of miles without maintenance). Keep it in mind if you break the rust-glue off of the hub and still can't get them off. I live in the rust-free south and have never taken drum brakes apart without having to back the adjusters off manually. Not once have they relented without sliding a flat head screwdriver up a rusty hole and fiddling with a notched metal
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Jun 25, 2018 20:29
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Mini Cooper (non-S) needs timing chain/guides replaced. At about 100k miles. Do the chain myself and sell it, or just save myself the headache and trade it in? Not a question but my wife wants to replace it with a newer S cooper. Enjoy my pain.
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Jun 25, 2018 23:06
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El Jebus posted:Mini Cooper (non-S) needs timing chain/guides replaced. At about 100k miles. Do the chain myself and sell it, or just save myself the headache and trade it in? You won't get the money back you put in in parts (and labor, your time is worth money too) so unless you intend to keep the car I'd just trade it in.
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Jun 26, 2018 00:34
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The lower door panel of my LS400 fell off, I still have the panel but I'm trying to figure out the best way to reattach it. There are tiny plastic clips that are broken and don't look like other clips I've seen on Lexus before, and I can't find them on parts sites online, but I don't think they'd do the bulk of the holding anyway. I'm tempted to use a bunch of 3M VHB tape, thoughts?
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Jun 26, 2018 02:40
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Dennis McClaren posted:We do, but this thing is huge, and heavy. It was enough of an ordeal just to get it home. Evaporust? The regular stuff is meant to soak in a dip, but they make a gel you can brush on too.
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Jun 26, 2018 03:01
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MomJeans420 posted:The lower door panel of my LS400 fell off, I still have the panel but I'm trying to figure out the best way to reattach it. There are tiny plastic clips that are broken and don't look like other clips I've seen on Lexus before, and I can't find them on parts sites online, but I don't think they'd do the bulk of the holding anyway. I'm tempted to use a bunch of 3M VHB tape, thoughts? It's worth a call to the Lexus/Toyota dealer parts dept to find out what the right part number is and how much. If it's less than $30 for the handful of clips and a few spares, I'd do it right.
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Jun 26, 2018 03:08
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Yeah you're probably right, I just don't think the little broken off clips can actually be what holds it on. There is obviously existing 2 sided tape there, but I'm wondering if I'm missing something.
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Jun 26, 2018 03:12
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Car: 1973 Datsun 240z Issue: No spark Condition: Sat unstarted for 6 years. I am getting no spark from the coil. I pulled apart the distributor, its absolutely crap and needs to be replaced, but that isn't the problem (I don't think). I regaped the point. It has a new distributor cap and rotor. I tried a new coil. The resistor is 1.6ohms, within spec. I put a new jumper wire from the + coil to the +distributor in case that wire was bad. I put the timing light between the coil and the distributor cap and got nothing. No matter what I sand and clean its seems I am not getting the spark from the coil. I am not sure what to test any more I am completely out of ideas. Tai-Pan fucked around with this message at 04:28 on Jun 26, 2018 |
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Jun 26, 2018 04:25
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1974 Chevy truck with the 350 small block. Current owner ran a coolant system flush and then didn’t refill it with coolant. Let it sit over the winter (in Texas, no snow and minimal days below 30 degrees). Replaced a freeze plug, then refilled it with coolant. Now there’s a massive leak out the front of the engine at the water pump. No coolant in the oil, so that’s a good sign. Simple pump replacement job, or should I look at other potential problems?
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Jun 26, 2018 05:01
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JUST MAKING CHILI posted:1974 Chevy truck with the 350 small block. Current owner ran a coolant system flush and then didn’t refill it with coolant. Let it sit over the winter (in Texas, no snow and minimal days below 30 degrees). Replaced a freeze plug, then refilled it with coolant. Now there’s a massive leak out the front of the engine at the water pump. No coolant in the oil, so that’s a good sign. Seals can dry out and shrink/crack. I would guess that is the issue.
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Jun 26, 2018 05:17
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EightBit posted:Dude, I'm trying to help you avoid a frustrating headache. The shoes can trap the drums on without dragging, and what you describe really makes me think that they will do that to you (lots of miles without maintenance). Keep it in mind if you break the rust-glue off of the hub and still can't get them off. I live in the rust-free south and have never taken drum brakes apart without having to back the adjusters off manually. Not once have they relented without sliding a flat head screwdriver up a rusty hole and fiddling with a notched metal I appreciate that, I really do, but at the moment, the drums are very, very much attached to the hubs. That's the issue I'm trying to deal with at the moment. Once I get the drums broken free from the hubs, I'll go from there. FWIW, I pulled apart the rear brakes on my last car - the same year, make, and model car, with a lot more miles, and assuming the rear brakes had never been touched (even if they had, I had put 120k on it myself, in addition to the 60k it had when I bought it.. this car only has 140k total) - and didn't have to do anything except whack them a few times to break them free from the hub. No grooves, though the shoes were pretty close to done. They still dragged slightly, as they should, when spun by hand. I doubt the JUST MAKING CHILI posted:1974 Chevy truck with the 350 small block. Current owner ran a coolant system flush and then didn’t refill it with coolant. Let it sit over the winter (in Texas, no snow and minimal days below 30 degrees). Replaced a freeze plug, then refilled it with coolant. Now there’s a massive leak out the front of the engine at the water pump. No coolant in the oil, so that’s a good sign. Did they leave it empty, full of water, or full of flush? I'm guessing full of water or flush since it popped a freeze plug, I'd expect to need to replace all of the freeze plugs (maybe they were rusty, maybe they had water behind them and froze, either way, once one goes, the rest aren't far behind). Beyond that it'll probably just be a water pump job.
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Jun 26, 2018 06:43
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Tai-Pan posted:Car: 1973 Datsun 240z Sweet car  Check your grounds, probably a ground strap rotted away somewhere.
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Jun 26, 2018 07:13
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STR posted:I appreciate that, I really do, but at the moment, the drums are very, very much attached to the hubs. That's the issue I'm trying to deal with at the moment. Once I get the drums broken free from the hubs, I'll go from there. Isn’t the answer to this some sturdy jack stands and then kick it off?
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Jun 26, 2018 12:20
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Tai-Pan posted:Car: 1973 Datsun 240z 12v to the coil while cranking? (or 7v from resistor while cranking?) -ve to coil continuity test to -ve of battery for ground problems. Could be something like a missing or broken earth lead from engine to chassis. Does it have an aftermarket alarm/immobilizer/remote? After that, they usually have ignition relays like other vintage Japanese cars don't they? (the relay that switches from 12v resistor bypass to 7v resistor throughput during running). And also capacitors/condensers in and on the distributor that if failed may prevent spark. Fo3 fucked around with this message at 12:32 on Jun 26, 2018 |
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Jun 26, 2018 12:27
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builds character posted:Isn’t the answer to this some sturdy jack stands and then kick it off? STR, I think it's time to break out the BFH and give it some percussive persuasion. And none of that gentle rubber mallet garbage, a proper steel sledge is in order. If possible try wedgeing a chisel between the drum and the backplate?
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Jun 26, 2018 12:41
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quote="spankmeister" post="485461738"] Check your grounds, probably a ground strap rotted away somewhere. [/quote] Totally possible. However, if I run a continuity test from the distributor - wire to the chassis, I get continuity. Shouldn't that mean I am okay? Fo3 posted:12v to the coil while cranking? (or 7v from resistor while cranking?) -ve to coil continuity test to -ve of battery for ground problems. Could be something like a missing or broken earth lead from engine to chassis. No alarms, etc. I think at one point it did have a voltage booster circuit but at this point it looks like that has been wired out. the line to the + of the resistor always reads ~12.5v. I didn't try wiring it straight to the battery directly. I can give that a shot and see what happens. Also, it was my understanding that condensors were just there to absorb some extra voltage and prolong the life of the points. I.E. you could run without one just fine. Is that incorrect? The one I have on there has obviously been replaced (although 6+ years ago). Tai-Pan fucked around with this message at 18:07 on Jun 26, 2018 |
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Jun 26, 2018 18:00
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Tai-Pan posted:
The plugs need to be grounded through the block as well.
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Jun 26, 2018 18:29
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The condenser can short internally, it's just a capacitor. Any time I mess with a points vehicle, and that's a lot for me, replacing them always works. Especially if all other things are known (or suspected) to be good. I'd just replace them and the condenser, it'll save you some gray hair.
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Jun 26, 2018 20:46
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I’m going to attempt my first oil change tonight on my 2008 Prius. I’ll be in a residential parking garage so flat concrete and around 78*F. I have plenty of Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5W-30, a Toyota filter, (presumably) OEM crush washers, and a drain pan. I do not have a filter wrench, but I’m hoping a rubber dish washing glove will give me enough grip to remove the old filter. The last oil change was done at a locally owned shop so hopefully they didn’t screw it on too tight. I’ll be raising the front onto jack stands using the included scissor jack; I didn’t want to bother getting a floor jack just for 10k mi oil changes. Remove drain plug, remove filter, replace both and use a new crush washer, pour in 3.5 quarts, and that should be it right?
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Jun 26, 2018 21:09
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A floor jack is definitely a good investment vs a lovely scissor jack. Cover the filter with a ziplock when you unscrew it. If it came from a chain shop it’s probably so tight you can’t remove it by hand but good luck.
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Jun 26, 2018 21:15
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big crush on Chad OMG posted:A floor jack is definitely a good investment vs a lovely scissor jack. Cover the filter with a ziplock when you unscrew it. If it came from a chain shop it’s probably so tight you can’t remove it by hand but good luck.
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Jun 26, 2018 21:20
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The "gently caress it" oil filter removal method is to stab a screwdriver through it and turn it that way.
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Jun 26, 2018 21:27
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Get a filter wrench.
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Jun 26, 2018 21:40
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