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BXCX posted:What's the standard thread recommendation for a starter airbrush compressor? I picked up a Badger Patriot at AC Moore with a 50% off coupon last week and I'm itching to get started. The Master Airbrush Model TC-40T is at the high end of what I'm looking to spend but it looks like it has everything I'm looking for with what look to be decent reviews. Is there a better quality/same quality but cheaper tanked compressor for the under $125 price point that I'm missing? I just got that exact same setup and it has been perfect from my newb perspective. I was able to find the tc-40t on ebay for about $90 brand new, so give that a look. Also don't forget to get a badger hose adaptor since badger airbrushes don't have the standard 1/8" connector that most compressors use. I recommend spending the extra few bucks on the quick disconnect kind.
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Jun 26, 2018 02:35
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The Moon Monster posted:Yeah, I've heard a lot of people say Vallejo primer goes on like a dream with a brush but that wasn't really my experience with it at all. Unless you're living in a shack in the everglades or something I'd give rattlecan primers a shot. Krylon ultraflat grey primer goes on great and should be cheap and easy to find in the US. It could be that I didn't thin the paint properly either, though the Dungeon Painter set seems like it's already pretty thin as it is. Adding water to it seems to make it too thin. I don't live in the Everglades, so I'll try to pick up some spray-on primer when I can. Apart from Space Marines, is there another kind of army that's relatively easy to paint? Also is anyone familiar with Zvezda? I saw that they do samurai minis, which look pretty good, but I don't know anything about the company
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Jun 26, 2018 02:41
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Max Wilco posted:I don't live in the Everglades, so I'll try to pick up some spray-on primer when I can. Illinois is bad enough to ruin spray primer. If your humidity is higher than 70% do not use spray primer.
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Jun 26, 2018 02:53
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dexefiend posted:Illinois is bad enough to ruin spray primer. If your humidity is higher than 70% do not use spray primer. I'm in Washington, but I don't know how humid it get here on average.
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Jun 26, 2018 03:20
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The paint itself is probably some contributing factor. I started with the Army Painter basic paint set as well (they rebrand it for a bunch of properties but it's largely the same selection) and the only colors that weren't runny and light on pigment were the blue, black, and silver. And the quick shade is great so the shade/ink combo set they offer is a decent buy though lacks a yellow ink.
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Jun 26, 2018 03:34
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The Moon Monster posted:Yeah, I've heard a lot of people say Vallejo primer goes on like a dream with a brush but that wasn't really my experience with it at all. Unless you're living in a shack in the everglades or something I'd give rattlecan primers a shot. Krylon ultraflat grey primer goes on great and should be cheap and easy to find in the US. I live like 5 mintutes from the Everglades, you're fine with a rattlecan here.
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Jun 26, 2018 03:48
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Max Wilco posted:I'm in Washington, but I don't know how humid it get here on average. I live in seattle and while I haven't used a spraycan for years other than on terrain, I don't think I ever had an issue with humidity back when I was using them.
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Jun 26, 2018 04:10
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dexefiend posted:Illinois is bad enough to ruin spray primer. If your humidity is higher than 70% do not use spray primer. I dunno, I was spraying this weekend and while I don't remember the exact humidity, at one point it was raining. I just did it in the garage, sprayed small batched of parts, and brought them inside with the AC. Everything seems to have turned out fine.
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Jun 26, 2018 04:39
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Compressor talk: The truth is that nobody actually makes their own compressors, they're all made in China In the same factories and then branded for whoever is going to resell them. At this point in time the tech is good enough that just about any of them will last longer than a hobbyist will need. Tanks are also not necessary, pulsing is a thing of the past and they won't have an appreciable effect on longevity. If you do live in the Everglades or somewhere else with crazy humidity then a tank does act as a backup moisture trap. You do need a pressure regulator, a moisture trap and a proper hose/fittings. I use a TC40T, it gets the job done, isn't too loud and doesn't take up much space. But honestly for what I use it for If I was buying a new one today I would probably save a few bucks and get a tankless. Clogging talk: If your airbrush is clogging a lot more than it did when it was new, try a little bit of flow improver in your paint, it retards the drying time so it won't dry in the tip as quickly. If you still have problems and you use it to prime, you might have gotten primer dried onto your needle/tip. Primer sticks to paint and once it's dried onto the surface of your needle it might look like it's clean but it can still have microscopic particles on the surface of the metal that will attract paint. Scrubbing the needle with an abrasive will cause it to no longer mate with its tip perfectly,so you're probably best to replace the needle. If you're using a 105, new needles are pretty cheap.
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Jun 26, 2018 06:41
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Z the IVth posted:My airbrush is getting jammed a lot more than usual. I've cleaned out the nozzle repeatedly and reversed the needle to clear out any obstructions in the main barrel yet I fine that I can barely get through half a cup of paint before it starts to clog again. I could have sworn it wasn't this bad when I first bought it. Worse, it's now jamming even when I spray inks. Reposting this - anyone have any ideas?
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Jun 26, 2018 09:10
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Z the IVth posted:Reposting this - anyone have any ideas? Airbrush/paint/thinner info could help narrow things down.
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Jun 26, 2018 09:18
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Vallejo airbrush flow improver should be all you need instead of that cocktail. It already thins and has a little retarder to prevent dry tip. I especially don't like using water to thin for airbrushing as that tended to exacerbate clogging for me. Matte medium would just be diluting but not necessarily thinning. Also if it's a Badger Patriot check the needle seat chuck, the one with all of the circumferential holes. You need like a small wire or something to clean them good. Are you getting a lot of bubbling up through your paint cup?
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Jun 26, 2018 09:58
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I was having issues with clogging, until I had a proper root around with the needle from this set. Eventually pushed out a surprising amount of crud, which fixed the problem.
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Jun 26, 2018 10:56
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Neurolimal posted:Alternate take: GW minis are too pricy to not strip and redo later if you're not satisfied with them My personal take: Don't strip your old stuff until you're out of new guys to paint. e.g. if you have a big army, don't go back and re-do your first minis until you've finished the rest of the army. Then if the difference in quality between your first and latest minis bothers you, you can go back and re-do your early stuff.
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Jun 26, 2018 12:04
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I still have the first model I painted. From 1994.
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Jun 26, 2018 12:19
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Max Wilco posted:Also is anyone familiar with Zvezda? I saw that they do samurai minis, which look pretty good, but I don't know anything about the company Zvezda does primarily historical figures and model kits. Their figures are nice, but be warned that 1/72 is functionally between half and a third the size of a warhammer man.
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Jun 26, 2018 13:10
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Inquisitor Blacktalon:
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Jun 26, 2018 14:02
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darnon posted:Vallejo airbrush flow improver should be all you need instead of that cocktail. It already thins and has a little retarder to prevent dry tip. I especially don't like using water to thin for airbrushing as that tended to exacerbate clogging for me. Matte medium would just be diluting but not necessarily thinning. It's an Iwata Neo. I spray a mix of GW and Vallejo. I suspecf it has to do with tip dry and the mix I am thinning with. Thanks for the tip on the flow improver, will see if I can pick some up to try. Does it behave with GW's paints? Z the IVth fucked around with this message at 14:24 on Jun 26, 2018 |
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Jun 26, 2018 14:20
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Z the IVth posted:Thanks for the tip on the flow improver, will see if I can pick some up to try. Does it behave with GW's paints? I'm a noob but I've been successful at spraying GW paints mixed with Vallejo Flow Improver. If you're not using GW's air line you probably need to thin them with a regular thinner because you're not supposed to use too much Flow Improver (just a few drops, the notice says).
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Jun 26, 2018 14:27
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Furism posted:I'm a noob but I've been successful at spraying GW paints mixed with Vallejo Flow Improver. If you're not using GW's air line you probably need to thin them with a regular thinner because you're not supposed to use too much Flow Improver (just a few drops, the notice says). Yeah but you can ignore that and thin entirely with flow improver. I do probably 1:4 paint to flow improver for the yellow on my fists.
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Jun 26, 2018 14:38
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I've heard good things about 50/50 Future/water, though I imagine the result would be very glossy. I can't speak personally because I reserve acrylics for handpainting (except Tamiya, which has its own thinner).
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Jun 26, 2018 14:42
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Any tips for removing paint stuck under the ferrule? I think I figured out that capillary action sucked in some very thinned paint under the ferrule of my WN7 and now it won't hold a tip. I heard rubbing alcohol works on paint next to or above the ferrule,, but would that be able to remove the gunk deep in there? Or do I just have to accept it's a lost brush at this point?
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Jun 26, 2018 14:55
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Fake James posted:Any tips for removing paint stuck under the ferrule? I think I figured out that capillary action sucked in some very thinned paint under the ferrule of my WN7 and now it won't hold a tip. I heard rubbing alcohol works on paint next to or above the ferrule,, but would that be able to remove the gunk deep in there? Or do I just have to accept it's a lost brush at this point? Brush soap.
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Jun 26, 2018 15:07
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Probably not a smart idea for real hair brushes like WN's, but worth sharing for newer painters that you can repair synthetic brushes via boiling (for physically damaged bristles) and turpentine (for paint stuck in the ferrule). Obviously dont do them in reverse order unless you love huffing chemicals.
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Jun 26, 2018 15:12
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Brush soap. I've given it many cleanings in Master's, and it still hasn't worked. Would letting it soak in a lather for an extended period get it deeper in there and help break it up? Or is it the act of swirling it in the lather that cleans it? I guess to describe the situation better - I can't physically see any dried on paint on the brush, but as soon as thinned paint gets on the bristles the entire brush swells wide and fans out into multiple points. I think it's way deeper in the ferrule then. Fake James fucked around with this message at 15:24 on Jun 26, 2018 |
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Jun 26, 2018 15:18
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Fake James posted:I've given it many cleanings in Master's, and it still hasn't worked. Would letting it soak in a lather for an extended period get it deeper in there and help break it up? Or is it the act of swirling it in the lather that cleans it? I believe you can let it soak in there without any adverse effects. I mean the worst that can happen is that it's already ruined, right?
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Jun 26, 2018 15:30
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Very true. I'll give a try tonight.
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Jun 26, 2018 15:31
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Fake James posted:Very true. I'll give a try tonight. I did what the OP recommended and let my brush sit suspended in paint remover after all the lather in the world wouldn't fix it. It needed conditioning afterwards but it absolutely salvaged my WN knock-off.
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Jun 26, 2018 15:37
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:I still have the first model I painted. I have the first model I painted from about a year and a half ago, it taught me the valuable lesson "don't drop your minis in the snow while priming them." Booley posted:Yeah but you can ignore that and thin entirely with flow improver. I do probably 1:4 paint to flow improver for the yellow on my fists. 80% flow improver? Woah. I'm trying to figure out my airbrush and paint consistency is one of my big stumbling blocks at the moment. I've been doing roughly the inverse of that and having clogging problems so maybe that's the cause. Fake James posted:I've given it many cleanings in Master's, and it still hasn't worked. Would letting it soak in a lather for an extended period get it deeper in there and help break it up? Or is it the act of swirling it in the lather that cleans it? Windsor and Newton makes a brush restorer for more or less exactly this purpose. You want to find a way to suspend your brush in it with bristles pointing down but not bumping against the bottom. Soak them like that overnight and it should loosen all the paint in the ferrule. You can get the stuff at any art store that sells W&S products. It's been able to help some of my brushes that brush soap wasn't able to. The Moon Monster fucked around with this message at 16:01 on Jun 26, 2018 |
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Jun 26, 2018 15:55
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The Moon Monster posted:I have the first model I painted from about a year and a half ago, it taught me the valuable lesson "don't drop your minis in the snow while priming them." You're probably not using scale75 paints, which are really really thick and a pain to airbrush. Something closer to 2:1 paint:thinner is probably OK for most paints.
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Jun 26, 2018 16:00
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Bucnasti posted:Compressor talk: I'm more interested in the tank for the reduced noise factor since most of my painting time is in the middle the night. The TC-40T I'm looking at already comes with the regulator and trap, would I be better off getting a compressor without and buying them separately?
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Jun 26, 2018 18:43
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BXCX posted:I'm more interested in the tank for the reduced noise factor since most of my painting time is in the middle the night. The TC-40T I'm looking at already comes with the regulator and trap, would I be better off getting a compressor without and buying them separately? the included ones have been fine for me
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Jun 26, 2018 18:44
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Any pointers for pushing inks with an airbrush? I've only had the airbrush for a week so I have a lot of things to learn in general, but working with inks in particular has been the hardest so far. It just seems like the ink comes too thin straight out of the bottle, and I've been having loads of issues with spidering even when working with low PSIs (15 or so). Should I go even lower air pressure, or add some sort of medium to thicken it or something?
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Jun 26, 2018 18:46
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BXCX posted:I'm more interested in the tank for the reduced noise factor since most of my painting time is in the middle the night. The TC-40T I'm looking at already comes with the regulator and trap, would I be better off getting a compressor without and buying them separately? Noise abatement is a valid reason to get a tanked compressor, but the tank on the TC40T isn't really all that large so the compressor tends to run a fair amount of the time you're spraying anyhow. It does shut off automatically when I'm not spraying though, so that's convenient. I use the regulator that came with the TC40, it's fine, but inconvenient to make adjustments on, so I'm thinking of upgrading to a higher quality one.
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Jun 26, 2018 20:36
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Mikey Purp posted:Any pointers for pushing inks with an airbrush? I've only had the airbrush for a week so I have a lot of things to learn in general, but working with inks in particular has been the hardest so far. It just seems like the ink comes too thin straight out of the bottle, and I've been having loads of issues with spidering even when working with low PSIs (15 or so). Should I go even lower air pressure, or add some sort of medium to thicken it or something? Lower your air pressure even more, for inks try like 6-8 psi. Your air pressure should be inversely proportional to the viscosity of your medium.
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Jun 26, 2018 20:41
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Agrax Earthshade Gloss 10ml Future 8 Drops Burnt Umber Acrylic Ink 2 Drops Black Acrylic Ink 
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Jun 27, 2018 02:06
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Does any company make a seafoam color acrylic paint?
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Jun 27, 2018 16:09
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I need some camouflage advice. I painted up this guy's cloak  in an attempt to make this camo pattern. I'm confident I can mix up that maroon shade, but at this point, I'm wondering if that third color is gonna be too busy on a 28mm model. Prior experience suggests I can replicate the pattern faithfully, but it breaks up the models' silhouettes and makes it hard to read what's going on at that scale. Y'know, like how camo is supposed to do. Try it anyway, or leave it as-is? Cat Face Joe posted:Does any company make a seafoam color acrylic paint? Would VGC 72.025, Foul Green work for you? grassy gnoll fucked around with this message at 18:16 on Jun 27, 2018 |
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Jun 27, 2018 18:12
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Cat Face Joe posted:Does any company make a seafoam color acrylic paint? Citadel Sybarite green or Gauss Blaster green perhaps?
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Jun 27, 2018 19:03
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I'm going to crosspost this over here because people wander through with questions about how to photo their models with some frequency. We've seen my fancy setup using strobes :  It produced this image:  Today, I just set up with a cheap LED work light I bought at home depot, a piece of parchment paper off the roll I keep with my wet palette, and a few sheets of foamcore (along with the acrylic sheet I use for the reflections). I do have it set up with light stands, but its not exactly difficult to find ways to hold things in places. Here's the setup:  Shot with my real camera, it gave me this image:  Then I went in with my phone, and while I didn't get the angle quite right and needed a tiny bit of work in photoshop to darken the background, I got this:  I used a google pixel with the opencamera app, shooting a DNG file with the shutter speed set almost as low as it goes, the ISO dropped to get a decent exposure, then the shutter speed tweaked until the exposure looked right. So yes, the strobes and fancy camera do help, they give a bit sharper (and bigger) an image with better color depth, but a phone can still do a good picture.
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Jun 27, 2018 21:05
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