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Check the coolant tank and see whether there’s coolant in it - there’s one radiator hose in those cars that always leaks after 80-100K and there’s no low coolant light so it’s not uncommon for them to end up in yards with nuked headgaskets. Aside from that they’re pretty reliable - they have a few electrical quirks, the sunroof drains love to clog and flood the interior, and they have flaky AC compressor clutches, but nothing too major. $1100 is a smoking deal if there’s nothing major wrong with it.
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Jun 18, 2018 06:40
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Yeah I've got like $6k in mine and you still can't buy them for less than that here in the Denver area, but it's probably got a blown head gasket or a blown transmission. Or it threw the timing belt and all the valves are hosed. That's the other common thing, take a flashlight and see if you can see both serpentine belts. One or both fails and wraps around the crank, loving the timing belt. And because of these common problems, motors are like gold and hard to come by.
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Jun 18, 2018 08:32
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I need to replace the front left driveshaft on the S40 (facelift) it looks like split the ball joint, undo the axle nut and it slides out, is that it? Any gotchas?
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Jun 18, 2018 13:05
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That’s the gist of it. There’s a snap ring on the splined shaft of the inner joint that gets hung up sometimes but you can usually release it by tapping a cold chisel or a big flat screwdriver in between the inner joint and the transmission case. If you’re replacing the OE axle with an aftermarket part it’s a good idea to swap the original snap ring onto the replacement axle. A lot of the aftermarket ones have a snap ring that isn’t shaped quite right and they tend to get stuck in the transmission.
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Jun 18, 2018 15:54
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Pair of Volvos - $1000 God drat, the interior on that 142 is nice. 
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Jun 19, 2018 23:20
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So the mechanic is done with most of the non suspension work on the volvo. (under budget too!) However they made one part swap Graveyard and i aren't 100% onboard/sure about. They swapped the coolant expansion cap for a lower pressure version (15PSI). Looking on FCP there are 3 caps at varyying pressures. 0.75 bar (10 PSI), 1bar (15PSI), and 1.5 Bar (~22PSI). Should I swap the sucker back out for the 1.5 bar cap? it does bring the boil temp up to about 220, and Cory and I wonder if its higher to prevent localized boiling around the turbo or other some such reason? Thoughts? This would be what I put (back) on: https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-expansion-tank-cap-green-1-dot-50-bar And here's the list/options: https://www.fcpeuro.com/Volvo-parts/S60/?utf8=✓&year=2007&m=182&e=2105&keywords=expansion+tank+cap
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Jun 21, 2018 20:30
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Since it's technically reacting against atmosphere, the 1.5 bar might be a high altitude cap since you bought the car here. On the other hand, I've never run a Volvo without a 1.5 bar cap even when I lived at sea level, I think.
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Jun 22, 2018 00:10
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I think I've finally found the replacement engine for my C70 T5M, a B5234T3 out of a 2002 S60 T5M (w/ only 72k miles). There shouldn't be any issues with dropping an engine from an 02 S60 into a 99 C70 right? they're both ME7 cars and afaik all the changes between those years were only to the engine internals. Just need a sanity check before I plunk the money down on it. e; loving nevermind somebody sniped me on it Terrible Robot fucked around with this message at 00:12 on Jun 24, 2018 |
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Jun 23, 2018 15:42
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I decided to buy a $50 set of two-piece 81-85 240 hubcaps instead of Virgos and new tires at $ god knows how much. They look great after painting the wheels with three coats of Ace Chrome Aluminum just like my dad would do on his ‘82 242 when I was a kid about once a year. We’re really similar so it’s not hard to see where my 240 perfection obsession came from. He owned that car from 1985-2004 and it was his baby and I loved that damned rusted-out thing so much I ended up buying 3 244s to try to feel what I felt as a kid in that car. This current one comes damned close. The day after Thanksgiving my dad would always change out his rear tires for a set of ancient Bridgestone snow tires. He probably bought them before I was born and they had a ton of miles on them and were still good when he decided to retire the car. I sometimes wonder what became of the car but I don't want to look up the VIN. I still have the shift knob and High Mileage Club badges in a box somewhere. The shifter would always rattle at idle because he loaned the car to a friend in the late 80s who couldn't figure out you had to pull up the collar to put it into reverse and pulled the whole shifter knob off because he thought it was like volkswagens which apparently operated like that. berth ell pup fucked around with this message at 02:16 on Jun 30, 2018 |
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Jun 30, 2018 02:00
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berth ell pup posted:The shifter would always rattle at idle because he loaned the car to a friend in the late 80s who couldn't figure out you had to pull up the collar to put it into reverse and pulled the whole shifter knob off because he thought it was like volkswagens which apparently operated like that. Guess what I learned how to drive a stick on? That was a mind trip and so loving frustrating at first.
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Jun 30, 2018 13:53
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I was confused the first time I drove a car that didn't have something on the shifter to lift or press down on to get it into reverse.
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Jun 30, 2018 17:56
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Sorry, I was kind of drunkenly reminiscing about my childhood. I remember my dad's 850 that I learned to drive stick in (and later owned before it was wrecked, not my fault) didn't have any interlock to shift into reverse but more importantly didn't have any interlock to prevent starting unless the clutch was in. Dad always parked his cars in first gear, but my mom always parked hers in neutral. Now any time I drive a stick car I always make like quadruple sure the clutch is depressed and it's in neutral before I turn the key though I assume most cars now have a clutch switch interlock on the ignition. That car was bought new by none other than a certain Edmund Sixtus Muskie btw! I still have the paperwork from the original sale at Don Beyer Volvo ("The Grand Experiment") from 1994.
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Jul 1, 2018 02:30
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2019 s60 looking delicious
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Jul 3, 2018 18:21
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GoGoGadgetChris posted:2019 s60 looking delicious Also sexy: 2019 v60
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Jul 3, 2018 18:56
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Oh man they are like 3/4 sized S/V90s. hhhrrrrnnnnnnnnnnggghh
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Jul 3, 2018 19:33
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Rumor also has it that the s40, v40, and brand new "c40" will be debuting in the USA for 2019 too
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Jul 3, 2018 19:59
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Really wish they weren't so on trend with making the entire dash out of iPads in the new V60.
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Jul 3, 2018 23:42
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VacaGrande posted:Really wish they weren't so on trend with making the entire dash out of iPads in the new V60. Yeah I feel like this is going to be one of those "what were we THINKING!" design aspects in a few years. It's going to get a lot more pervasive before it goes away, though.
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Jul 3, 2018 23:56
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the new S/V 90s are pretty loving neato but I've only seen two in person, one V90 in the showroom at Dyer & Dyer in Atlanta last October for something hilarious like $67k and one S90 on I-40 in Tennessee with New York plates doing like 45 in light rain. Oh hey by the way the reason my 240 struts were rattling was because the KYB chinese-made strut mounts were too thin and the locknut was running out of threads and not securing around the bearing. I took some 5/8" washers from work (316 stainless, fancy!!) and put them over the strut rod and tightened the nut and it's completely smooth, noise-free sailing now. I'm keeping the still-okay but not great factory Boge mounts in my parts stash though as all 240 strut mounts available are apparently just universally terrible now. berth ell pup fucked around with this message at 01:31 on Jul 4, 2018 |
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Jul 4, 2018 01:26
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Yeah the upscale trending is a bit obnoxious, there’s no way to get into these things as the little guy without all the premium. I just bought the purolater one cabin filter for $9.34 which came out of the box with “Mann Filter Made In Germany” on it. The dealer sent me a coupon for $20 off to inspect “hose, fittings, vents, and coolant” with “Clean, deodorize, and replace cabin air filter”. (IAQS carbon filter more expensive). The gently caress? Clean and replace? $20 off? Off of what? If they’re gonna jerk me off at least put it in the ad.
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Jul 4, 2018 01:41
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Amusingly I recently got a coupon from the dealer for an oil change for like $25 or something for my 240 which was almost not unreasonable but I just use Mann Filters I buy from my local 240 guy for $8. If it was somewhere else I might have taken it in for the fun of it, knowing they just bought my name off the license plate register as the owner of a volvo, but the dealer here is loving bizarre. They have about ten cars on the giant lot, five of which aren't Volvos, and maybe two inside. The place seems be staffed by about two people who have no idea what is going on whatsoever. When trying to order parts you might after ten minutes have someone find you and then tell you the part is NLA even if you can call another dealer and have them order it for delivery the next day. I'm not sure there are actually any parts at all in stock behind the parts counter whatsoever. I have no idea how they're still franchised and if they didn't have the name of America's largest mobile-home maker/rural poverty exploiter on the outside I'd assume it was some sort of Rabbit Is Rich-type 1980s cocaine money-laundering front. Since the last time anyone in the service department there saw a B230F or even any car at all was never I decided to pass. My parents had a 2013 S60 they bought out of state that still had some of the free maintenance left so they took it in. It took something insane like four hours to change the oil on it and the experience was lovely enough they both sold their Volvos and bought Hondas. My only hope is that the dealership was some project some wealthy Clayton bought for some deadbeat son of his as a toy to make him shut up and give him an actual job without costing too much and giving him the ability to gently caress anything up too expensively. Basically gently caress anything New Volvo, especially after loving Dave Barton over. I don't like his lovely cars, or his dumbass modifications to those cars, but he provided a valuable service reproducing Volvo factory body stickers and other useful decals and things that will be missed. berth ell pup fucked around with this message at 03:12 on Jul 4, 2018 |
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Jul 4, 2018 02:59
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What sucks about trademark law is that if you don't protect your trademark you lose it. So Volvo really doesn't have a choice. They have to issue cease and desist letters and follow up or they risk their brand label becoming public domain.
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Jul 4, 2018 09:54
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You can license out the trademark for a trivial fee, though. You still defend the mark and let someone use it to help your brand image.
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Jul 4, 2018 19:49
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I agree that they should have tried to work out some sort of licensing deal, even though Volvo were within their legal rights the C&D vaporized a ton of enthusiast goodwill.
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Jul 4, 2018 20:21
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I've been chasing hard-starting and the "Reduced engine performance" error for many months now, but recently it became worse. The car stumbles and has stalled, and is currently actively misfiring. All components read and test ok with scan tool, so a visual inspection was in order. In the depths of piping surrounding the RPM/crankshaft position sensor, I was able to discover that the mounting bracket was broken and mostly missing. So though the sensor seemed to test ok, it was not steady. Replacement of the bracket is in order. Removing the front bolt was a royal pain, but the rear bolt seems impossible. There is no space between the bolt head and a casting bump on the bellhousing. Does removing the RPM sensor bracket require removing the transmission? Did I find the bolt the car was built around?   tl;dr: How do I remove bolt? edit: To add that this is the same 2005 S60 2.5T I have previously posted about, though it's not strictly relevent to impossible bolt removals mr.belowaverage fucked around with this message at 16:06 on Jul 7, 2018 |
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Jul 7, 2018 16:04
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Yeah the trans blocks that bolt, then they use a plastic bracket which breaks. gently caress those guys. I would grind the bump on the bell housing off with a dremel or angle grinder (yes I know there's a ton of poo poo in the way) until the wrench fits and the bolt comes out. In other news, I have a 15G turbo freshly rebuilt for sale, anyone here interested? Direct bolt on for 850 cars, requires removing or grinding down two tiny pins to re-clock for 2, 7 and 9 series cars. Link to my for sale thread on TB: http://forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=341219
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Jul 8, 2018 05:52
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What is this dumb crap Volvo is saying about "2019 model available only via Care App"
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Jul 9, 2018 00:19
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GoGoGadgetChris posted:What is this dumb crap Volvo is saying about "2019 model available only via Care App" I know that the 2019 S60 Polestar was only available through Care by Volvo, as well as the S60 T6 AWD with Momentum trim, and the S60 T6 AWD R-Design. I think all other S60 variants are available for regular lease or finance though?
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Jul 9, 2018 03:43
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Anybody have a factory B230 SOHC turbo exhaust manifold kicking around they'd like to sell? I'm trying to avoid having to buy an ebay special that relocates the turbo and forces me to custom make a downpipe.
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Jul 9, 2018 07:33
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More on the P2 love from the last few pages... I was getting a cylinder misfire (P0301) on a 2006 XC70 (at 199K mi) so I swapped the ignition coil. Misfire on cylinder 1 so I moved coil #1 to cylinder 5, and then cylinder 2, with error codes showing misfires at the other cylinders following coil #1. I just ordered a set of 5 new Bosch coils and OE plugs (plugs last done about 49K mi. ago, no idea about coils but they're Volvo so probably original), and I'm hoping this will resolve any misfires for the near term. Some questions while I await the parts: - should I apply anti-seize on the plug threads? And what about on the screws I needed to remove for access (ie. the engine cover, the pipe over it, coil bolts) - is applying dielectric grease inside the ignition coil boot necessary? I also noticed a small amount of oil under the engine ignition coil cover, and I suspect it's from oil top-offs. Could this also indicate something more (like a PCV clog)? It's really a small amount of oil... I had to drive about 5 hours after the initial misfire to get the car home, seems like this was bad for the cat convertor and O2 sensors; would this also warrant looking at the engine mounts? Does this open up the vehicle to a whole other set of problems? I'd like the vehicle to be reliable another 50K if possible so looking at that timeframe. Suicide Watch fucked around with this message at 22:06 on Jul 15, 2018 |
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Jul 15, 2018 22:01
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You don't need to apply anti-seize or dielectric grease, although neither will hurt anything - the plating on the plugs serves the same purpose as anti-seize and the coils seal to the plugs really well so the grease won't do much. The rest of the hardware is your call. The biggest risk with the coil cover screws is stripping out the heads once they get rusty. The oil cap seals in modern Volvos tend to leak once they've been in there for a while so I'd start there to resolve your oil leak. A misfire could be bad for the O2 sensors and cat but it won't hurt anything outside the engine. In the future, if the engine has a misfire don't drive it long distances. 
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Jul 16, 2018 02:40
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Seconding the oil cap seal, I just buy them 10 at a time and replace them every couple years. The other source of oil under the cover is the PCV hose getting hard and relaxing under its clamp. If you haven't changed the PCV parts in the last 75-100k it's worth doing for max engine health. If the hose is still fairly soft, replacing the clamp might help, but it's really hard to get it in there and get it right. I usually pull coil #3 so that I can get a worm clamp down nice and low and tighten it. Now that I have my R running again I remember why I love P2 wagons so much. It is just such a pleasure to drive.
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Jul 16, 2018 04:09
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I would still use dielectric grease. It'll help make sure the coils release from the plugs next time you change them.
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Jul 16, 2018 04:33
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In how much of a world of hurt am I in if I want a 3.2, T6 or V8 S80/V70? Looking at late P2 / early P3s here.
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Jul 16, 2018 21:10
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I've heard the P3s are basically bombproof. My buddy who runs a shop says they first see them at like 100k miles and it's for piddly stuff like brakes. I almost picked up a P3 V70 R design but the lack of turbo really turned me off. Gorgeous wagon though. My buddy wants to get a P3 V70 and put the S80 V8 in it. They're basically the same car. The later P2s should be fine although I'm not sure if the transmissions were ever made good.
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Jul 17, 2018 19:27
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I'm almost ready to give up on Volvos after replacing the cabin air filter in my V50. This should have been a 30-second job. Instead, someone designed it so that you have to contort yourself into the driver's footwell and remove the accelerator pedal to get to the filter housing. That would have been acceptable if they'd designed the pedal to be easily removed, but they used locking nuts to hold the pedal to its mounting studs and thoughts and prayers to retain the studs in the bracket. The result is that they spin as soon as you try to loosen the nuts. I was able to remove two of the nuts eventually, but the third was so stuck that I had to cut it off, which mangled that stud beyond repair. The end result of all this is that I've had to tear the dash apart, remove the steering column, and remove the brake pedal assembly so that I can either replace the studs or install a new one. Apparently there's a TSB out there that suggests the replacement of the locking nuts with regular ones, but my car obviously never got that service. At least I've been able to catch up on a bunch of minor maintenance I've been procrastinating about while it's been out of commission.
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Jul 24, 2018 23:07
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I changed that filter on my dad's v50 recently. I didn't have your bad luck with the studs ( I don't thing it was locking nuts), but it's a stupid design to be sure. All that uncomfortable work in the footwell and I still had to mangle the filter quite a bit to slot it in, even with the gas pedal out of the way. My assumption at the time was that actual mechanics must leave the pedal in place and just mangle the filter like crazy, because the method I used is just insanely awkward and time consuming for a routine maintenance job like that.
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Jul 24, 2018 23:25
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I need to do that job on my wife's S40, will it be different on a RHD car?
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Jul 25, 2018 10:59
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Yes. They used the same climate unit in LHD and RHD cars so in the latter the air filter is changed from the passenger side. According to the service manual you need to remove the glovebox, the central electronics module, and the CEM bracket to access it. Since you have to disconnect the CEM I’d assume you would also want to disconnect the battery but the service manual doesn’t mention it. Here’s the procedure for RHD models: https://www.matthewsvolvosite.com/forums/download/file.php?id=6484
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Jul 25, 2018 15:13
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That is a shitload easier on a modern Volvo. Minus the part where to replace the filter in any car you have to crumple it up like a snot rag to get it back into the slot.
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Jul 25, 2018 22:43
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