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2006 Ford F150 4.2L V6. Door tag says transmission code A. Which transmission is this? There is so much conflicting info on the internet and none of it really lists code A. The couple of sources I did find list different ones - 4R75W and 4R75E. E: 14 bolts on the pan. Looks like this one here: http://photobucket.com/gallery/user/whitecrystal1F150/media/bWVkaWFJZDoxNjQxODM0OA==/?ref= briefcasefullof fucked around with this message at 19:09 on Jul 2, 2018 |
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Jul 2, 2018 18:22
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Is there a general tires thread? If not, what's the spiritual successor to Continental DW 's nowadays? Alternatively: taking recommendations for a summer tire in 225/40R18 with decent wet performance that's relatively affordable.
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Jul 2, 2018 19:48
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Ansith posted:Just going back to my issue here to put some closure on it. A few years later trans won't shift correct again when the weather is hot, I noticed it was down on power as well and found the cat converter blocked. I've replaced the cat and gained heaps of power but still sometimes get bad shifting when hot. You've given me hope that if I get around to changing the probably burnt fluid all my issues will be fixed. Such a loving PITA without dipstick tubes and flush points rargh!
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Jul 2, 2018 22:55
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How do I disconnect the fuel lines on my 1995 Ford F150 4.9 I6? I've disconnected the negative battery terminal and pushed in the schrader valve (absolutely nothing came out of hmn) but I can't get the disconnect tool into the fitting. I've already bought two different sets of disconnect tools so I've got plenty of sizes, but it looks like it should be a 3/8. I've already sprayed some wd40 into the fitting to make sure it wasn't caked in dirt, it's very clean, I can look into and see the little clips the fitting should displace. Edit - Ok, I got the flared fitting off fine, but I still can't get the tool into the non flared fitting. Both of my truck's fuel pumps connect with a flared and non flared fitting, so this is either OEM or some shop did both of these at ones. I'm going nuts here, I don't know how many times I can try to press a tool into the fitting before I lose it. Jack B Nimble fucked around with this message at 00:33 on Jul 3, 2018 |
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Jul 2, 2018 23:42
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Fo3 posted:The exact same thing happened to mine. It toasted my trans 5 years and I had it rebuilt. Get that fluid changed, yours could be a success story like mine! I definitely appreciate the dipstick on the C4 in the XC a lot more now. I've read a few people modified the EL/AU BTRs to have one after Ford removed it, not sure if the barra would get in the way vs the earlier sohc motors though. The trans working properly really did transform the car. Driving it around before this I was always thinking why bother get rid of the 250 when this isn't much better. Now? Yeah my XC is going to be a good bit of fun, even without a turbo.
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Jul 3, 2018 00:05
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Jack B Nimble posted:How do I disconnect the fuel lines on my 1995 Ford F150 4.9 I6? ... If you haven't already, try (by hand) shoving & twisting the fitting against the release tool while simultaneously pushing & slightly rotating the release tool. Sometimes, pushing them together lets the l'il cleats release.
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Jul 3, 2018 01:41
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Fifty Three posted:Is there a general tires thread? If not, what's the spiritual successor to Continental DW 's nowadays? Alternatively: taking recommendations for a summer tire in 225/40R18 with decent wet performance that's relatively affordable. The answer is always firehawks.
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Jul 3, 2018 01:47
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PaintVagrant posted:The answer is always firehawks. 
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Jul 3, 2018 04:07
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yes, they are great, especially for the price
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Jul 3, 2018 06:08
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Handen posted:I was thinking of selling it to one of the delivery drivers I work with. Not because it'll do him any good, but because it'll false-positive on every automatic door all over the city and gently caress with his head constantly, thereby slowing him down and levelling out the playing field a bit. In the bizz he's what we call a "snake," and has a habit of taking deliveries that were supposed to be other drivers' so long as it benefits him the most and nobody stops him before he gets out the door. He "slithers" away with whatever he can get away with. Usually it's not worth going to management over, but it can really piss off your coworkers after a while.  PIZZA GUY SPOTTED I loving hated snakes, but I got to where I could out snake the snakes.  It helps that I can be buddy-buddy with almost anyone, but by then, unknown to the lunch snakes, I had also been demoted, er, promoted to shift manager (usually closing) - thus, had a password for overriding stuff like "HOLY poo poo YOU'RE LEAVING WITH MORE THAN 2 ORDERS? PASSWORD PLEASE" (while leaving with 8 orders) (my record was 11 or 12 at once, but more out of necessity when half the shift no-showed).  Secret was out once I got demoted to assistant manager, though I still drove regularly.That's old enough that it's not gonna do any real good beyond pissing off the snake for maybe a week (before he chucks it out the window), but if you just want to get rid of it, I dig automotive history like this. Detective Thompson posted:Has anyone used https://www.nissanpartswebstore.com They supposedly have a part I can't find anywhere else but that in and of itself makes me kinda suspicious. Anyone know anything about them? Is it scamola town? I have not, but I can absolutely vouch for courtesyparts.com - they're local to me, and if they can't order it, then no Nissan dealership in the US can get it. Had to call them a couple of times to have them track stuff down, but they generally came through. EKDS5k posted:My 2003 Subaru Forester stopped charging the battery. Dash light is on, along with the park brake light. 11.8 V from alternator post to battery ground, as well as across the battery posts while the engine is running. Oh, good to see another make pulls that. My 99 Altima would throw the battery and brake light at you at the same time if the alternator crapped, and if you drove it long enough with both on (say, 5 minutes with the ac cranked on a 105F day), it'd toss a check engine light too. (go grab a new alternator, since it's not a 1992 Dodge Van) (sorry Javid  )Dennis McClaren posted:Are owner's manual's authors over-zealous with their estimates on when and how often to perform maintenance procedures? Somewhere in the middle of "severe" and "normal" if they have two guides (which most manuals I've seen do). Very few people drive "normal" as defined by the manual, but not many people do actual "severe" driving as defined by the manual. If you only have one guide, if you're good about maintenance, you can get away with worse, but if you're under warranty, you absolutely NEED to stick to at least some kind of maintenance schedule as defined in the manual (in case a warranty claim comes up - keep all receipts and any other proof of work, including the types of oil/fluids used). Preferably closer to the severe service schedule if you're concerned about warranty (especially if you have a Kia or Hyundai). Now going by dealer (and most shops) advice, they heavily lean toward "way too often". Also, what totalnewbie said. He works on the OEM side, but not for an automaker.
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Jul 3, 2018 09:07
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What's a big ol' list of stuff that can cause steering wheel shake and light rumbling that gets faster when my 2005 Honda Pilot goes faster? I did a wiggle check on the bearings and they seem solid. Unbalanced tires, warped rotors and/or uneven pad wear, suspension bushings?
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Jul 3, 2018 14:56
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scuz posted:What's a big ol' list of stuff that can cause steering wheel shake and light rumbling that gets faster when my 2005 Honda Pilot goes faster? I did a wiggle check on the bearings and they seem solid. Unbalanced tires, warped rotors and/or uneven pad wear, suspension bushings? wheelweight fallen off
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Jul 3, 2018 15:00
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spog posted:wheelweight fallen off
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Jul 3, 2018 15:22
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scuz posted:What's a big ol' list of stuff that can cause steering wheel shake and light rumbling that gets faster when my 2005 Honda Pilot goes faster? I did a wiggle check on the bearings and they seem solid. Unbalanced tires, warped rotors and/or uneven pad wear, suspension bushings? When this was happening on my bmw7, it was the control arms and bushings going out.
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Jul 3, 2018 19:19
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Fifty Three posted:Is there a general tires thread? If not, what's the spiritual successor to Continental DW 's nowadays? Alternatively: taking recommendations for a summer tire in 225/40R18 with decent wet performance that's relatively affordable. Head over to tirerack.com and look at their ratings. I've found them to be pretty reliable.
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Jul 3, 2018 19:59
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Hello, AI! I have a 2004 (3rd gen) Dodge Ram 1500, single cab, 4.7L, 136,000 miles, with A/C problems: A/C airflow has been weak due to the recirc blend door (? it's the one against the firewall, leading to the fresh air intake) self destructing, redirecting airflow into the dash cavity. Both heat and cold air work fine. I removed the broken blend door from the dash. Airflow problem solved. My question is this: until I buy a new blend door, will it hurt anything if I block off the opening it covers? There is a big hole in the firewall now when the truck is parked. Can I just block the opening and let it run recirculated air 100% of the time for now? Humidity is becoming a problem. There is a rechargeable silica dehumidifier in the cab, the condenser has been cleaned, the a/c fan and ducting has been scrubbed clean, and the refrigerant recharged. Air from the vents is "clean" smelling, but humid. There are no obvious leaks, with previous (fixed) leaks from the back window slider and grab-handle mounting points (WTF, Dodge). Thank you!
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Jul 3, 2018 21:32
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STR posted:Oh, good to see another make pulls that. Yep, they were related. The alternator shop around the corner from me was open this morning and I got them to test mine: dead. $120 Canadian monopoly moneys for a new (reman) one and both lights are out.
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Jul 3, 2018 23:25
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madeintaipei posted:My question is this: until I buy a new blend door, will it hurt anything if I block off the opening it covers? You should be fine.
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Jul 4, 2018 02:05
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2003 Ford Focus sedan. I was just driving along and my engine cut out. Dashboard lights flashed, I got a tow and the mechanics computer said camshaft sensor was throwing an error. A few days later he try a new sensor and the car still doesn’t start which leads him to discover the timing belt broke. I live 20 miles from this mechanic so I haven’t been able to go see the car. But the mechanic told me over the phone that the motor is TOTALED due to it being interference design. Now, I’ve done a bit of googling and I believe my motor is NOT interference. It looks like the 2nd motor on this page: https://fswerks.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/205742378-What-engine-do-I-have-Ford-Focus-engine-types-?mobile_site=true 2.0 liter SPI/SOHC. Could my mechanic be so dumb or am I in denial about the state of my poor car? Obviously I’d prefer a <1k timing belt replacement to a total car replacement. Does anyone know absolutely if my motor is ok or not?
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Jul 4, 2018 14:59
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It's a bit of a crap shoot. Mechanic seems like a bit of a tool for throwing a sensor at it with very little diagnostic work. If it is the SPI/CVH, it is a non interference engine, but it could have shredded the belt due to a valve seat dropping and jamming things up. If that happened the damage will be similar to / possibly worse than the damage from a timing belt failure in an interference engine. Seems like any mechanical damage could be reasonably well identified with a camera down the spark plug holes, since a dropped valve seat will bang the hell out of everything.
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Jul 4, 2018 15:13
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1971 Challenger. I'm working on the diff. 8.75" rear end and 741 housing. 2.7-whatever ratio ring and pinion. I'm trying to install an Eaton truetrac where there was an open OEM diff. I've had this thing taken apart for a month now because I keep having to reorder parts when I gently caress something up. For instance: did you know that a bearing shim can be directional?! No? Alright, pull off that brand new bearing you just hosed and order another. ANYWAY I have reinstalled new pinion races and bearings and I'm trying to reinstall the pinion itself. When I torque down the main pinion nut that ties it to the yoke and loads the bearings, the pinion becomes hard to turn. It doesn't spin freely like it did originally, it stops completely when I stop applying turning force to the yoke and it is pretty stiff. It does turn smoothly, though. Is this normal? If not, what am I doing wrong? Edited for clarity. E2: after a brain-cleaing drive around town I realized the nut in question is both loading and setting lash. I looked up the torque spec for it and it was only 13-15 lbs. It seemed impossible to turn when I was disassembling, which is why I thought it would be a really high torque spec. So I pressed the pinion out a bit and re-tightened the nut by 16ths of a turn until there was almost no in-out play when pulling on the yoke, and discovered that that's where it also gets stiff to turn. So I got it now. theres a will theres moe fucked around with this message at 18:47 on Jul 4, 2018 |
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Jul 4, 2018 17:49
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IOwnCalculus posted:It's a bit of a crap shoot. Mechanic seems like a bit of a tool for throwing a sensor at it with very little diagnostic work. This. The SPI/CVH is notorious for dropping valves if they get remotely close to hot. But it's not an interference engine unless that happens. Or if the timing belt breaks at a high RPM.
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Jul 4, 2018 20:46
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STR posted:This. The SPI/CVH is notorious for dropping valves if they get remotely close to hot. Thanks for the answers. It was a hot day and I was going close to 80, so the potential for bad damage is there. I’ll ask my mechanic tomorrow whether he has opened the engine at all or otherwise put his eyes on the damaged part.
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Jul 4, 2018 22:26
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Is there a solution out there that aggregates external sensors and OBD2 data to an Android app via Bluetooth? All I can find is Defi, which would run me $600+ for oil temp, pressure & OBD. There is also the option of AEM CD-5 and their CANBus sensor module. That is also $500+. The problem I am looking at solving is adding analog oil temperature and pressure to my android tablet's Torque Pro OBD connection. The vehicle does not have those two sensors stock.
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Jul 4, 2018 22:29
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Dashboss?
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Jul 4, 2018 22:33
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Two completely unrelated questions for you fine folks: 1. I'm starting to do more and more tinkering on my vehicles. It's probably time to invest in a decent torque wrench. Can anyone recommend one that won't break the bank? 2. My daughter's 05 Spectra is cranking but went turn over. Sounds like it almost about to catch but didn't quite get there. I know there is a variety things it could be but trying to get a sense of what I should prioritize in terms of troubleshooting. No I haven't pulled codes because I don't have my own reader. Thanks!
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Jul 4, 2018 23:52
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Ragevan has no factory tach, is that something I can get and install or is there just no connection for it if the dash doesn't include it to begin with?
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Jul 5, 2018 00:11
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vulturesrow posted:
Does it sound like normal when it's cranking? just never starts? Usually that indicates some sort of 'engine not getting fuel' thing which can be anything from a clogged fuel filter (cheap) to something more like a failed fuel pump (more expensive via labor).
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Jul 5, 2018 00:38
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vulturesrow posted:1. I'm starting to do more and more tinkering on my vehicles. It's probably time to invest in a decent torque wrench. Can anyone recommend one that won't break the bank? US? If so get a harbor freight torque wrench. 3/8 or 1/2 drive will do most/all of what you'll need.
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Jul 5, 2018 01:06
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Geoj posted:US? If so get a harbor freight torque wrench. 3/8 or 1/2 drive will do most/all of what you'll need. Yeah US. HF actually has a set of 3 for like 60ish dollars. I'm definitely not anti-HF but I do tend to be a little more selective with what I buy there. I just wasn't sure if this fell into the "ok to buy from HF" category or not.
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Jul 5, 2018 01:56
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TLDR - do I have to disconnect my battery before disconnecting the main relay? Sunday I woke up to discover that my car, a 2000 Accord, wouldn’t start. It cranks but except for one time where it started sluggishly for a second and shut off it won’t start up. In the couple of weeks before hand I stalled out while driving, which was odd but the car started up again. It was also getting quieter while idling, at least in retrospect I think it was as I am trying to think of everything relevant. So while trying to figure out what it could be that maybe I could diagnose or fix I came upon multiple suggestions that the main relay could be having an issue that would keep the fuel pump from working. It was 100 degrees the day that the car wouldn’t start and has been hot this entire week and that also matched up with the possibility that the relay is the culprit. Anyway, I got the thing out of it’s case to check it and would like to bring it inside to check the solder for any cracks. I haven’t disconnected the battery before so would have to look up how to do that but is it a safety concern? A few months ago I had to take out the main computer due to a faulty immobilization chip (which I removed) and stupidly didn’t think to check it the battery should be disconnected then, and it ended up being fine but I thought of it this time so it is dangling under the wheel until I find the answer. Thanks for any help!
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Jul 5, 2018 02:26
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I have a 2008 Subaru Outback with those round Yakima roof rack bars and a Yakima Skybox 18 cargo box. How bad of an idea is it to move the box all the way to one side, load it up, add a kayak to the other side, and blow the 150lbs weight limit by another 50lbs for a ~5000km journey? Asking for a friend.
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Jul 5, 2018 05:16
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rio posted:TLDR - do I have to disconnect my battery before disconnecting the main relay? Going by the service manual? Yes. In real world practice, including mechanics at the Honda dealership? Hell no. You're fine leaving it connected, just don't jam paperclips into the terminals and ground them out against the firewall or something stupid like that.  Your symptoms do sound very much like a failed main fuel relay. I assume the security light on the dash (green light with a key) isn't flashing when you're trying to start it, right? If that is flashing while trying to start it, your immobilizer bypass failed somehow.Ideally you should have disconnected the battery before disconnecting/reconnecting the engine computer, but on a 2000 Accord, it the ECU doesn't communicate with anything else in the car, except for an RFID reader in the steering column (which you've bypassed) and the cluster. Honda was pretty late to the game when it came to adding networked modules in their cars (2003 on the Accord, I believe). The electronics (and even the engine, if it's the 4 cylinder) on your car are drat similar to those in a 1990 Accord, they've just added airbags and an immobilizer. If you do need to disconnect the battery in the future, you only need to disconnect the negative cable. Don't drop the wrench across the battery terminals unless you want a fast track course in arc welding (and possibly firefighting). (also, if you have the factory radio, you'll need the anti-theft code for it to work again after reconnecting the battery).
randomidiot fucked around with this message at 06:07 on Jul 5, 2018 |
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Jul 5, 2018 06:04
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Javid posted:Ragevan has no factory tach, is that something I can get and install or is there just no connection for it if the dash doesn't include it to begin with? If you're very lucky, the wiring is there for it and you could use a factory tach (or tap into it for an aftermarket one). The van is just new enough that this might work. If not, then there should be a tach signal available at the distributor cap.
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Jul 5, 2018 06:13
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Yeah, a lot of aftermarket tachs just tap onto the coil wire or even sometimes a spark plug wire. You don't have to actually tap "into" the wire - often wrapping six turns or so of unshielded wire around the distributor lead wire is enough.
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Jul 5, 2018 06:40
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Oh, cool. I figured that information was used by the engine SOMEHOW and therefore monitored and transmitted. I have no actual need for a tach, I'm just used to having it and not having one weirds me out.
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Jul 5, 2018 06:58
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Pope Hilarius posted:Thanks for the answers. It was a hot day and I was going close to 80, so the potential for bad damage is there. I’ll ask my mechanic tomorrow whether he has opened the engine at all or otherwise put his eyes on the damaged part. A hot day doing 80ish shouldn't phase any car. By "hot" I'm talking more along the lines of your engine temp gauge being decently past the halfway mark. The SPI/CVH isn't a great (or even good) engine no matter what, but doing 80 on a hot day shouldn't be enough to phase any car, unless your definition of "a hot day" is 150 (F) degrees outside. They're not particularly prone to dropping valves until the engine overheats - but it will drop a valve the moment it gets too hot. Have your mechanic pull the spark plugs and see what kind of damage is in there, if any. If he doesn't find any smashed spark plugs, no debris, and a visual inspection through the spark plug holes doesn't reveal anything (preferably with a cheap borescope) he can very likely just line everything up and slap a timing belt on. Javid posted:Ragevan has no factory tach, is that something I can get and install or is there just no connection for it if the dash doesn't include it to begin with? Wiring is very likely there (it's just a tach signal, which is wired into the positive wire on the coil). If it's not, every aftermarket tach I've used uses a +12V (switched ignition), ground (anything metal), and a wire to the positive terminal of the coil (add a dash lighting wire if you get one that's backlit). It's also hilarious fun to switch the tach to 4 cylinder mode when you have friends that are barely car-savvy with you - it shows double the RPM on the tach. "WHY THE gently caress IS IT SHOWING 8000 OH MY GOD IT'S GOING TO BLOW UP <van shifts> WHAT THE gently caress MAN"
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Jul 5, 2018 08:37
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STR posted:Going by the service manual? Yes. Cool, thanks a lot for the info. I’ll take it out and check the joints, see if I can repair it if any are cracked. Edit: one of the solder joints was obviously cracked - I resoldered it and it started up. Feels good considering I really don’t have money for car repairs, so hopefully tomorrow it will still be good to go and this car issue can be behind me until the next one. rio fucked around with this message at 09:29 on Jul 5, 2018 |
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Jul 5, 2018 08:43
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The main fuel relay is the achilles heel of Hondas. You dun good Anytime it does the same poo poo, yank the relay and reflow some solder again. It'll be good for a year or two, if it's that loving relay.
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Jul 5, 2018 13:05
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vulturesrow posted:Yeah US. HF actually has a set of 3 for like 60ish dollars. I'm definitely not anti-HF but I do tend to be a little more selective with what I buy there. I just wasn't sure if this fell into the "ok to buy from HF" category or not. In terms of accuracy they're usually within +/- a few percentage points of the major brands when tool reviewers check them. Wouldn't pass the smell test for aerospace work but perfectly fine for automotive use.
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Jul 5, 2018 18:50
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