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Slimnoid posted:What size LED did you use? And what kind of battery/switch assembly? Looks like you've got it stored under the base?  The LEDs are a trio of Green SMDs, they’re less than 1mm large and easy to fit in the skull. One in the head, two in the torso. I got lucky with this particular sculpt, there was a straight shot for me to drill from the underside of one foot up through the neck. The switch is just a basic breadboard toggle switch, you can see it in black in the first pic behind his right foot.
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Jul 5, 2018 01:24
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I prime, airbrush/basecoat, varnish, washes, varnish, highlight, varnish, matte varnish. Varnish early and often. If I gently caress up, I can take a little Qtip with rubbing alcohol and erase back to the most recent varnish.
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Jul 5, 2018 03:50
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Booley posted:No, you're fine to varnish multiple times. Most of my stuff has been varnished a few times before I'm even done painting. I ran out of Dullcote, which used to be my go-to varnisher. So I picked up the aforementioned 'ard coat and matte sealer at my FLGS. I do have an airbrush as well, so I suppose I could run it through that rather than brushing it on. It's gonna be about 90 degrees outside tomorrow with 60% humidity, so I don't know how that would affect the varnish.
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Jul 5, 2018 04:05
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Das_Ubermike posted:I ran out of Dullcote, which used to be my go-to varnisher. So I picked up the aforementioned 'ard coat and matte sealer at my FLGS. I do have an airbrush as well, so I suppose I could run it through that rather than brushing it on. It's gonna be about 90 degrees outside tomorrow with 60% humidity, so I don't know how that would affect the varnish. I would absolutely airbrush it. My current preference is Vallejo mecha matte and gloss varnish. Airbrushing is a lot more tolerant of weather, I don't think it would have too many issues with that (obviously test it first).
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Jul 5, 2018 04:07
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FromTheShire posted:First mini, from a local paint a mini class. I had already bought some painted 40k stuff and was looking to expand into doing some painting of my own, so I figured I would get some helpful pointers. Didn't turn out that way, there wasn't much by way of instruction, but still turned out pretty well in my opinion. All the Duncan videos I watched before nearly screwed me though, I didn't know at the time Reaper paints require very little to no thinning out of the bottle, so that orange was a real bitch to do! This dude looks like the main villain in some rad forgotten mid-90s toyline-based cartoon
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Jul 5, 2018 04:45
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This might be a common question, but it's my first time attempting something like this. I made a few Gaslands cars and when I was done wanted to put a protective matte finish on them. I used a can of Krylon spray matte from Walmart because Google told me to. Except all my cars came out looking like glazed donuts. I'm not out but a few bucks, but I'm not sure if I had the wrong can or I just applied waayyy too thick. It's not hard to pick the finish off the black tires with your nails, but that's no solution for fixing a $1 model. E: here is the can and a car I gave a very thin coat this morning. Maybe a half second blast on each side. Windshield started off clear. https://twitter.com/MattSolo734/status/1014845458257195008?s=19 Huxley fucked around with this message at 13:19 on Jul 5, 2018 |
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Jul 5, 2018 12:32
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You can't put a clear matte over clear plastic. Matte by it's very nature is basically microscopic powder suspended in a clear binder, the powder adding tooth to the surface of which breaks the reflectivity of it. So by putting it over clear plastic, you've basically made a frosted glass effect. It probably stands out on the tires as well since they're black, and many mattes will show on pure black. You'd have to mask the tires and windows, and use VERY light coats, if you want to continue to use rattle can mattes.
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Jul 5, 2018 13:41
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:You can't put a clear matte over clear plastic. Matte by it's very nature is basically microscopic powder suspended in a clear binder, the powder adding tooth to the surface of which breaks the reflectivity of it. So by putting it over clear plastic, you've basically made a frosted glass effect. It probably stands out on the tires as well since they're black, and many mattes will show on pure black. Thanks. So to achieve what I'm looking for, I would want some kind of brush-on product? I assume, when I am working on pieces this small that would need that much masking it would be easier just to brush coats on.
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Jul 5, 2018 13:55
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Masking fluid/solution/liquid etc. mostly comes in brush-on jars, but if you're really lazy, Molotow makes a paint marker version. For something that tiny, though, you probably want to use a brush. You could also go the inverse route and get some matte varnish to apply by brush. Either solution is pretty cheap.
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Jul 5, 2018 14:03
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grassy gnoll posted:Masking fluid/solution/liquid etc. mostly comes in brush-on jars, but if you're really lazy, Molotow makes a paint marker version. For something that tiny, though, you probably want to use a brush. Thanks you two!
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Jul 5, 2018 14:29
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If you do go with a masking fluid, make sure to do a test with it on some clear plastic you don't care about. It should be fine, but they definitely have a chemical stink to them, and you don't want to craze the plastic by accident.
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Jul 5, 2018 14:42
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You could try going back with a clear coat like Pledge Future (or whatever they might be calling it this year) to bring back the gloss look where you want it. Probably won't do as much for transparent stuff like the windows, but it's common for re-shining metals after matte coating. Also Future is just handy as a brushable clear coat for various techniques or just as a more durable protective layer beneath your matte spray.
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Jul 5, 2018 14:43
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dexefiend posted:I prime, airbrush/basecoat, varnish, washes, varnish, highlight, varnish, matte varnish. Interesting. I've been doing this for 25+ years now and most of the people I know saved the varnishing/sealing step for last. What does applying varnishes before washes get you exactly? Does it help with the flow of the wash to avoid pooling? Couldn't you simply mix in some matte or gloss medium with your wash to get the same affect?
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Jul 5, 2018 14:58
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Do you guys thin your Future at all? And then what about when airbrushing? Thin with water or?
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Jul 5, 2018 15:21
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Das_Ubermike posted:Interesting. I've been doing this for 25+ years now and most of the people I know saved the varnishing/sealing step for last. What does applying varnishes before washes get you exactly? Does it help with the flow of the wash to avoid pooling? Couldn't you simply mix in some matte or gloss medium with your wash to get the same affect? It helps with the wash flowing into the crevices, and makes it easier to undo mistakes. Adding some gloss medium also helps it flow into crevices, though not as well. It's also required if you're oil washing.
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Jul 5, 2018 15:42
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Huxley posted:E: here is the can and a car I gave a very thin coat this morning. Maybe a half second blast on each side. Windshield started off clear. 
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Jul 5, 2018 16:07
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Ilor posted:In addition to the eminently practical advice others have given about masking out the windows, I'd just like to point out that for Gaslands you should be busting out those windows and replacing them with wire cage or armor plates anyway.  I had a half dozen really rad looking cars in various states of disrepair and weaponization that now look like they got run through the Krispie Kreme conveyor belt. I'm probably just going to flat-black them and start over with fresh cars. Maybe go back and paint them when I get a better sense of how to do all this. This random link says you can try 1) olive oil, 2) the floor polish, 3) resealing over the haze and seeing what happens. Might try all three tonight. Nothing to lose. http://superflycircus.blogspot.com/2013/08/how-to-remove-frost-from-models-sprayed.html Huxley fucked around with this message at 16:20 on Jul 5, 2018 |
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Jul 5, 2018 16:17
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Silhouette posted:This dude looks like the main villain in some rad forgotten mid-90s toyline-based cartoon I would have watched the poo poo out of whatever show that ended up being
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Jul 5, 2018 17:00
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Don't buy small bottles of "masking fluid", since it's literally just liquid latex. You can buy entire pints of liquid latex dirt cheap.
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Jul 5, 2018 21:04
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I bought a little squeeze tube of Vallejo "Matt" Varnish at my FLGS. Going to go home tonight, water it down maybe 1:1 and see what happens.
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Jul 5, 2018 21:10
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Varnishing is important if you use different types of paints and don’t want any adverse reactions between them. For instance, Microsol decal fluid eats right through most GW tints. Oil and alcohol based paints will chew up acrylics as well.
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Jul 5, 2018 23:12
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Groetgaffel posted:^^^^^ What he said. 
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Jul 5, 2018 23:34
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except paint instead of post.
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My first painted miniature: I was 12 (over 20 years ago  ). This guy was from the first plastic skeleton kit.Most recent, a skeleton spaceman: 
Skails fucked around with this message at 00:07 on Jul 6, 2018 |
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Jul 6, 2018 00:03
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What’s that skeleton spaceman from? It’s rad af
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Jul 6, 2018 00:11
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Quidthulhu posted:What’s that skeleton spaceman from? It’s rad af I think it's an Eversor made from a Genestealer Neophyte and a Skully T. Skullington skull?
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Jul 6, 2018 01:18
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Olive oil, by the way, took the haze like it was nothing. Didn't try a cheaper oil, but I did six cars with probably under a half teaspoon so whatever. Thank you thread.
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Jul 6, 2018 01:31
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Big photo dump of badguy egypt marines coming! Finished my kitbashed Chaos Chosen today.  Tha Sqwadd  Aspiring Champion   Marine with Burnin' Bird (counts as Icon of Flame)  Three bad boyz I also completed a small squad of Chaos Marines a little bit ago as well     And here's everyone that's painted thus far: 
Two Beans fucked around with this message at 03:41 on Jul 6, 2018 |
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Jul 6, 2018 02:10
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Anyone have any experience with masking putty? Is it just silly putty with a fancy label? I can get a big tin of thinking putty offa amazon for like $6 or buy some Mig Masking putty for $15.
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Jul 6, 2018 02:23
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Bucnasti posted:Anyone have any experience with masking putty? Is it just silly putty with a fancy label? As far as I know it's just generic Silly Putty. If you have a well stocked toy store (thanks Toys R Us, and Obama), or a Wal-Mart, near you, you can probably find a bunch of the standard sized eggs of the stuff there for the same price you'd pay to order the Thinking Putty online. Or you can go full mental and order a One-Pound Egg, or a Five-Pound Block.
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Jul 6, 2018 04:31
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So which one of you moved the 'first ever warhammer vs latest warhammer' thing to instagram? It's all over my feed, can't be a coincidence that it happened later the same day
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Jul 6, 2018 05:43
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NTRabbit posted:So which one of you moved the 'first ever warhammer vs latest warhammer' thing to instagram? It's all over my feed, can't be a coincidence that it happened later the same day I think GW's community page started the same thing, at pretty much the same time, so that's probably why.
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Jul 6, 2018 05:51
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Coming together nicely, I think! Now to pick out details, then transfers, then weathering.    
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Jul 6, 2018 06:04
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Is it okay to spray Tamiya (alcohol-based acrylic?) over a Vallejo Primer? Since they are both acrylics I thought it'd be fine, but I've heard that the alcohol can actually mess up the underlying pigment. Can I put a coat of Pledge/Klear over the primer to prevent that? Or do I have to use an another water-based acrylic over the primer? Also, according to reddit the main difference between alcohol-based and water-based acrylics is that the former is easier to airbrush because the later just dries too quick and is a pain in the rear end (and according to my experience, it's true and super annoying). While water-based is better for regular brushes. Is this correct?
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Jul 6, 2018 06:28
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Bucnasti posted:Anyone have any experience with masking putty? Is it just silly putty with a fancy label? I use blutac and it works fine. Not sure about the fancy stuff.
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Jul 6, 2018 07:20
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So following the thread's advice, I just went ahead and painted the other two Chaos Marines, and I think they came out       I think I finally got the paint-to-water mostly correct, as I was able to apply it on pretty fluidly, and it didn't seem to come out very gritty this time. Thinning the metallic didn't seem to work as well, though. Doing the basecoat was fine, and if I had just left it as is, it would have been pretty clean and neat looking. Doing the silver and other colors is where it falls apart, since I inevitably paint where I don't mean to. I did go back and touch up a bit, but looking at the photos, I still missed a lot of places. In regards to the paint being runny, going through most of them again, the ones that seems to be the worst is brown, yellow, and red. Brown is a little runny, but red and yellow were still separated, even after shaking them. Regardless, I tried to be a bit creative with what I had. For the horns on the black one, I put brown paint over the black, then did a white coat, then another brown coat, and then the shade. I think it came out pretty good, if a little messy looking. With the blue one, I did something similar, where I put white over the blue, then yellow, then another coat of white and shade. It didn't come out quite right, though, because of how watery the yellow is. That also why the eyes aren't really pronounced; because of the watery red.
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Jul 6, 2018 07:51
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Bucnasti posted:Anyone have any experience with masking putty? Is it just silly putty with a fancy label? Mig masking putty is a thing of wonder and very different from blue tac or silly putty. I love that poo poo, I use it for all sorts of stuff but in particular for painting a hemlock with different colored sections and was super impressed.
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Jul 6, 2018 10:53
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Quidthulhu posted:What’s that skeleton spaceman from? It’s rad af Schadenboner posted:I think it's an Eversor made from a Genestealer Neophyte and a Skully T. Skullington skull? Yep, I plan on doing a squad of skeleton neophytes in brown and grey. Two Beans posted:Big photo dump of badguy egypt marines coming! These guys look awesome. Thats a great mix of colors.
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Jul 6, 2018 11:22
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Max Wilco posted:So following the thread's advice, I just went ahead and painted the other two Chaos Marines, and I think they came out Yeah the brown, yellow and red in the AP starter set just have that problem. It's a common problem with yellow and red paints but it's a bit odd on the brown. Thinning metallics with straight water is kind of dicey in my experience. They break easily, and if you thin them too much the metallic flakes will be spread too thin and give a "glittery" effect. Thinning them with an acrylic thinning medium helps a bit, although if you're just starting I think I'd either thin them with water just a little bit or not thin them at all and apply them very carefully.
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Jul 6, 2018 11:33
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Did someone say Wet Palette?  Just had this Kickstarter arrive. Tried it out briefly this morning and it seems really solid (the absorbent foam is really nice). Will see how it handles a few hours of blistering UK weather when I open it again tonight.
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Jul 6, 2018 13:14
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| # ? May 26, 2024 10:45 |
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 It's a wasted trip baby. Nobody said nothing about locking horns with no Tigers. Been working on a Hollywood Tiger for an upcoming Kelly's Heroes anniversary event and I think I'm more or less finished with it outside some basic decals. Oh and the four rings around the barrel I realize now. Granted I am missing some foliage on the sides but no idea how to pull that off well.
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Jul 6, 2018 14:43
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