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barkbell posted:Is this the place to talk about haggling prices? Looking at a new 2018 Forester 2.5i Touring. The easiest thing to do is price the model and options you want on edmunds.com and then have the requests sent out to the thre nearest dealers. Take the best price and forward it to the oother two and say that another place offered this, what can they offer? Go a few rounds on that and then e-mail the dealership you like the most (due to location, quality of service, whatever) and write, "So-and-so has the best offer, but I've had the best experience with you guys in the past and I'd like to give you another chance to make an offer because I'd like to work with you if possible," and typically they'll bump a bit more off. Say you do not have a trade-in until after the amount is finalized. You probably already know this, but they're going to try to get you to list a monthly payment you can live with and then they're going to gently caress around with down payments, loan terms, etc. to hit that number while screwing you in some other way. So do all of your negotiation before you even step foot in a dealership, and if they try not to honor what they put in writing in the e-mail, get their manager or walk out. Oh, yeah, the Forester Owner Forum's thread on price paid is helpful too.
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Jul 1, 2018 14:21
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I bought a '17 Forester almost exactly a year ago. You can easily get 3-5% under invoice price, maybe more than that. I used both truecar and edmunds to figure out what the options I wanted would cost and shot an email offer to all the local dealerships. "I want this car. I want these options. I want to pay this much. Can you provide that car with those options at that price?" One dealer came back and said they don't go below sticker. Ignored further emails from her. Others came back with higher offers, or saying they didn't have a model like that, but would i prefer an "UPSALE HERE" instead? One dealer came back and said - there's that exact Forester 100 miles away, I will go get it and sell it at your offer price, no problem. When do you want to pick it up? Only time I went to an actual dealership was to sign documents after the deal was agreed on over email. They came out with something slightly off of what we agreed, but it seemed like an honest mistake and they lowered the price back to what we had negotiated over email without any hassle. I just pulled out my phone and said "hey we agreed to this much for this, and this contract says this instead?" and the sales guy said "oh you're right, I'll go fix it."
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Jul 2, 2018 18:01
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All of that is my usual approach but it has varying results. Lately I've had pretty much every dealer refuse to price out a car without visiting in person.
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Jul 2, 2018 18:05
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I'm trying to offload a Curt bolt on class 2 tow hitch for 2005-2009 Legacy/Outbacks and am having a hard time getting interest in it. Anyone here want it? I'll sell it for $0 if you pay shipping costs.
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Jul 3, 2018 12:40
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I’ve had the airbag light on on my 05 LGT for a while. An OBD 2 scanner or accessport reports no codes. Will SRS codes show up with one of those scanners? I’ve read both yes and no. The light came on a while back after the flatbed dropped it off then I moved it...the bumper scraped the ground when he rolled it off the flatbed. I replaced both sub sensors and checked the wiring for them up to the airbag control module and it was fine. Also tried reflowing the solder joints in the dome light.
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Jul 3, 2018 16:00
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bull3964 posted:All of that is my usual approach but it has varying results. Lately I've had pretty much every dealer refuse to price out a car without visiting in person. This is my luck as well. It's unfortunate, cause I hate dealing with those fuckers in person.
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Jul 3, 2018 16:00
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I'm in the process of replacing my front door speakers and I've (I think) determined that there's a problem with the lower-left front door wiring. New head unit, and new speaker, still no sound. I'm trying to get my hands on a new (or replacement) connector but I have no idea what it's called and my local electrical shop couldn't help me. It's this guy: 
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Jul 4, 2018 03:01
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What the gently caress did you do to that poor thing?  I'd cut it off and replace everything with crimp spade connectors.
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Jul 4, 2018 03:09
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(that's not actually mine, I pulled it from this video, but it's the same connector)
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Jul 4, 2018 03:14
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MalleusDei posted:Dunno about Loyales, but my 4th gen LGT transmission is noisy AF, especially 1st and 2nd. Every GC8 (5 sp) I've driven has a distinct gearbox whine when accelerating hard in 1st . I like the noise.
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Jul 4, 2018 05:48
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Looks like we're not going to see a new global platform based WRX for over a year. So, it really looks like a 2020 introduction of a 2021 model. https://www.motoring.com.au/new-subaru-wrx-sti-and-brz-at-least-a-year-away-113452/ quote:“I’m confident there will be a replacement for the WRX and STI moving forward. It’s not five to 10 years away, either, but it certainly won’t be here in the next 12 months.” The BRZ refresh will be further away, if at all. But subaru still has a focus on performance cars. I wonder what sort of special edition "this is really the last time" thing they trot out for MY20. So, I guess stopgap car for me as my WRX will probably be 10 years old by the time the new one shows up and even longer before stock settles down. My best bet is probably to pick up something fun for the next few years and pick up on the WRX again in the mid life refresh (if it's worth while.) bull3964 fucked around with this message at 06:39 on Jul 4, 2018 |
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Jul 4, 2018 06:37
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If you think "new" plaform means anything new and interesting coming from Subaru man have we got news for you GC - > GD 2cm wider in the suspension. More metal in places. Looks a bit different. The entire driveline just swaps either way - it's not that much different despite all the marketing BS. In fact the lightest MY07 WRX race cars all have one thing in common - they started life as GC's. THATS how similar they all are underneath. The first GC was 1992 and the GD ended in 2007. 15 years on the same floorpan... even the 1st Gen Forester is completely swappable with a 2007 WRX. If we talk crash standards, a 1st Gen Forester is still capable of making 3.5 stars - and only really loses due to lack of curtain airbags (yeah okay thise are def good in a crash) and no electronic stability poo poo which aint gonna do poo poo when the crash starts... and dubious if it will stop the crash occuring in the first place. As a pure hit something and walk away it's still right up there with new cars. GR -> It's basically a 4th gen Liberty underneath. VA / VM -> It's a 5th Gen Liberty. The Levorg makes it 100% blatant, it's literally a repanelled 5th Gen Liberty wagon with WRX running gear stuffed in it. drat near every single thing is interchangeable between the Levorg and the WRX other than panels. And even then, plenty of them swap over. And the "new" global platform? It's basically a recycled 5th gen Liberty again along the same lines as the GC -> GD. Any WRX going forward on the "new" platform in reality means just a makeup job. It's why Subaru's have been long known to be car Lego. Not like other car makers are any different. "ALL NEW" has always been complete crap. Same poo poo under the bonnet with a few more welds, a few more doodads and maybe safety "features" and a different look and interior. Actual genuine platform differences are a lot of years inbetween.
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Jul 4, 2018 12:29
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Not that it means anything but Subaru has still been using ej's in all their motorsport entries so that gives me lots of confidence in my fa engine.
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Jul 4, 2018 13:10
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I'm not really sure what you are arguing about. I never said it would be fundamentally a brand new car from the ground up. The fact remains that the alignment to the global platform in use for the current Impreza and Crosstrek gives them opportunity to improve the car beyond what you would normally do in a mid to late cycle refresh. The FA20 for the WRX is down at the bottom of the list of my complaints about the car. The most significant thing that can happen from the shift to the global platform is it opens up the opportunity for the WRX to be manufactured in Indiana. That alone gives Subaru a lot more flexibility in production which might allow the hatch to come back. That move could also reduce the production cost of the car which would help them be more competitive with equipment and features without greatly inflating the price. Most of the improvements from aligning to the global platform would likely be production cost based. That may allow them to play with the trim options, possibly collapsing down into two. The $27k base WRX would be a hell of a lot better deal if they didn't gimp the steering and suspension. LED headlights should also be standard across the range. Adaptive dampers are also way way way overdue for this vehicle. I mean, FFS, Honda has adaptive suspension in a $24k car at this point. If the normal WRX is aimed at daily driving with weekend corner carving, it's about time the put the equipment in the thing that allows it to do that. Keeping with the current vehicle means more of the same with a few tweaks here and there. The next generation of the car at least gives some hope for a bit greater change since the realization of production efficiencies allows greater latitude for that change.
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Jul 4, 2018 17:42
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So my gc8 has done just over 200 k km and timing belt interval is every 100k. PO only had it for a few months before upgrading to a blob eye STI. He says the guy previous to him did timing belt at 190k km but I see no evidence in written form or in the engine bay, so I'm just gonna assume it wasn't done. My question is should I bother replacing it if I just plan on modifying the car heavily anyway? Would bent valves be an issue if I was just going to put new rods, pistons and valves in? I'm either doing that or replacing the engine with a donor JDM sti engine anyway... I do have a second car, motorbike and pushbike to commute on if the wrx is out of action for any appreciable amount of time.
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Jul 5, 2018 02:10
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net work error posted:Not that it means anything but Subaru has still been using ej's in all their motorsport entries so that gives me lots of confidence in my fa engine. The offset rids are problematic under high boost levels - Hell, if you bump the boost on a stock car the rods can go plastic. The rest of the engine should produce power reliably otherwise but either way the EJ is well proven for racing. fickle poofterist posted:So my gc8 has done just over 200 k km and timing belt interval is every 100k. PO only had it for a few months before upgrading to a blob eye STI. He says the guy previous to him did timing belt at 190k km but I see no evidence in written form or in the engine bay, so I'm just gonna assume it wasn't done. If you are about to get modding... *shrug* If you are in NSW I can check it, there's telltale wear signs that'll pick if it's changed or not.
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Jul 5, 2018 03:27
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In vic unfortunately bud. Do you know anyone in Vic you can reccomend? I'm dealing with gotitrex whi seem pretty good but always chasing reccomendations....
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Jul 5, 2018 03:29
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Been having some trouble with my Outback recently. First the alternator/PS belt took a poo poo while I was quite a ways from home and my tools. I fixed that then the other belt behind it decided to skip off it's spot and start rubbing the new belt causing both of them to eat poo poo within about a week of putting the new one on. Now I go to move it so I can set off fireworks and I have a flat tire... I was saving up for the timing belt replacement, so now that cash is going to all new tires all around since the other 3 are too old to just put a new one on the flat tire.
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Jul 5, 2018 05:11
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fickle poofterist posted:In vic unfortunately bud. Do you know anyone in Vic you can reccomend? I'm dealing with gotitrex whi seem pretty good but always chasing reccomendations.... DIY it. All you have to do is pop off one of the side timing covers (4x 10mm bolts) and you can see the belt
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Jul 5, 2018 10:42
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Not like other car makers are any different. "ALL NEW" has always been complete crap. Same poo poo under the bonnet with a few more welds, a few more doodads and maybe safety "features" and a different look and interior. Actual genuine platform differences are a lot of years inbetween. Ehhhhhhh, I don't think anybody is as bad as Subaru about this stuff. But they're a relatively small automaker but still this is laughable and incredibly obvious. Still, people like them and buy them so I guess it works for them.
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Jul 5, 2018 12:24
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ChunksNensja posted:DIY it. All you have to do is pop off one of the side timing covers (4x 10mm bolts) and you can see the belt What tell tale marks am I looking for?
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Jul 5, 2018 12:42
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Larrymer posted:Ehhhhhhh, I don't think anybody is as bad as Subaru about this stuff. But they're a relatively small automaker but still this is laughable and incredibly obvious. Still, people like them and buy them so I guess it works for them. Have a look at some Camrys and prepare to be WTFed. Genuinely new platforms are usually at least 10 years apart and engines even longer. Subaru are nowhere near alone on this one. The only reason why people might know is Subarus have enthusists all through them.... and people like me who can quote exactly what chassis is used where are in a huge minority. How many people give a gently caress which upright works on which Camry or Corolla? The great unwashed dont give a gently caress their shopping trolley basics were engineered 15 years ago
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Jul 5, 2018 20:44
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CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:Have a look at some Camrys and prepare to be WTFed. No they aren't alone, because much of the time with the beigemobiles nobody would notice or care. They put the same 4 cylinder and 4 speed auto in something (at least up until a few years ago, and I don't care to look up whatever boring box it was  ) that was so out of date and carried over for years. However, this isn't typical nowadays with some of the 'murican brands. New platform, new engine, new trans, hell why not? Somebody up top checks all the feature boxes so then you get a perfect shitstorm of first year issues to be worked out. It makes sense why they carry over the stuff though since you can save a shitload of money on development costs and the consumer is none the wiser most of the time. Still, it's a bit sad to see that treatment done to the STI with the EJ living on.
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Jul 5, 2018 22:05
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If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
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Jul 5, 2018 22:17
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Charles posted:If it ain't broke, don't fix it. This and every other forum makes me feel like it's always broke though.
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Jul 5, 2018 23:27
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fickle poofterist posted:What tell tale marks am I looking for? Any cracking or deterioration of the rubber. Genuine belts have a big patch of writing on them and if you can still clearly read it then its probably good. The belts are pretty strong, ive lifted an engine with a used timing belt before. Idler pulleys on the other hand tend to fail before belts do but ive seen plenty go 200k on original idlers and you can usualy hear them before they let go. ChunksNensja fucked around with this message at 13:55 on Jul 6, 2018 |
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Jul 6, 2018 13:47
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It's not WRX-modding chat, but what's the consensus on the Ascent that just came out? Big 9-seat SUV for families...Looks pretty good for a non-hobbyist.
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Jul 9, 2018 01:11
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poisonpill posted:It's not WRX-modding chat, but what's the consensus on the Ascent that just came out? Big 9-seat SUV for families...Looks pretty good for a non-hobbyist. I know 2 Subaru techs that just went to school for a week to learn this. A 2.4 liter turbo charged subaru motor that can tow 5000 lbs? Sounds like a recipe for a lot of warranty claims. My vote is "Run away"
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Jul 9, 2018 01:25
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daslog posted:I know 2 Subaru techs that just went to school for a week to learn this. A 2.4 liter turbo charged subaru motor that can tow 5000 lbs? Sounds like a recipe for a lot of warranty claims. My vote is "Run away" The engine isnt the problem. TBH Subaru turbos can tow a LONG way above their chassis rating no issue. The problem is the CVT. A 2.4 litre motor that barely has more torque than it's 2 litre cousin (370NM vs 350NM) signals Subaru have the same heavy duty CVT that has a hard limit of 400NM. Heavy towing is a recipe for CVT chain slip, especially with a gearbox already not that far away from it's hard limit. Yeaaaaaah I wouldnt be towing that kind of weight with a CVT.
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Jul 9, 2018 01:48
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Prognosis on transmission problems within.... or just outside... the warranty?
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Jul 9, 2018 01:59
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poisonpill posted:Prognosis on transmission problems within.... or just outside... the warranty? Truth is, who the hell knows? It's a first year model, expect 4 or 5 trips to the dealer for recalls.
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Jul 9, 2018 02:13
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poisonpill posted:Prognosis on transmission problems within.... or just outside... the warranty? Lets just say CVT issues in turbo Subarus arent unknown and most of them are about the chain wearing prematurely causing slipping.
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Jul 9, 2018 02:29
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Awesome, I appreciate the heads-up. I'll recommend that she walk away. I don't suppose there's a alternative I can suggest instead?
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Jul 9, 2018 02:32
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Where's the turbo XV with a six speed, Subaru??
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Jul 9, 2018 03:38
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My 05 Impreza RS has a torn front-right CV boot. It smelled weird but I thought that might be new brake pads I installed, but I guess its been grease burning off the cat for the past 1-2 months. I haven't noticed any clicking/grinding from that corner, and it still feels ok in general driving. Should I repack with grease and replace the boot, or get a whole new shaft? Also, is it customary to do both shafts at once? I can get two brand new shafts for AUD$190 delivered which I dont mind paying, just want to make sure I wouldn't be totally wasting my money. Edit: Or should I just take it to a driveshaft shop and not waste my time? Granite Octopus fucked around with this message at 12:30 on Jul 9, 2018 |
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Jul 9, 2018 12:27
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Any time I've replaced CV shafts, I've done it as a pair, assuming that if one of them was shot, the other wasn't far behind.
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Jul 9, 2018 23:28
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poisonpill posted:Awesome, I appreciate the heads-up. I'll recommend that she walk away. I don't suppose there's a alternative I can suggest instead? The VW Atlas looks ok, I have Nissan Pathfinder but it has even worse CVT issues in that they aren't a guess, its a well documented problem, complete with class-action lawsuit. I am on my 3rd transmission currently. Note I do tow things. If you don't tow anything or fill it with fat goons all the time, all of them are probably fine. The Mazda looks good too.
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Jul 9, 2018 23:46
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I have a 2005 Outback 2.5i, California emissions standard. In May I got a p2096 CEL code for post catalyst fuel trim system too lean bank 1. The repair shop diagnosed it as a failed O2 sensor and replaced it. Two weeks ago I got the same code again, they did not find any problems with the O2 sensors, didn’t think there was an exhaust leak based on listening to it, and recommended a catalytic converter replacement. I drove it as is, the light turned on again 3 drives after getting it back from the shop, then off again just yesterday. The various internet posts out there about this don’t really mention catalytic converters, so I’m just looking for a sanity check before spending a lot on a new cat for this. Is it probably the catalytic converter failing? Is it worth getting the exhaust thoroughly checked beforehand?
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Jul 9, 2018 23:55
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Did the shop check if that "too lean" code came on because it's actually too lean? Basically any leak after the maf can/will cause that to pop up. So check the intake, pcv hoses, vacuum lines, etc.
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Jul 10, 2018 00:33
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Anachronist posted:I have a 2005 Outback 2.5i, California emissions standard. In May I got a p2096 CEL code for post catalyst fuel trim system too lean bank 1. The repair shop diagnosed it as a failed O2 sensor and replaced it. Two weeks ago I got the same code again, they did not find any problems with the O2 sensors, didn’t think there was an exhaust leak based on listening to it, and recommended a catalytic converter replacement. I drove it as is, the light turned on again 3 drives after getting it back from the shop, then off again just yesterday. That diagnostic is for the cat, basically telling you if it's dead or not. If it isn't the sensor... jamal posted:Basically any leak after the maf can/will cause that to pop up. So check the intake, pcv hoses, vacuum lines, etc. That's P0171 (front o2 sensor), not this one. What's coming out of the cylinders is good and within range, what's exiting the cat though, is not. Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 00:44 on Jul 10, 2018 |
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Jul 10, 2018 00:41
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