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Chumbawumba4ever97
Dec 31, 2000

by Fluffdaddy

Ixian posted:

Yes. Type and more importantly size.

First you need to determine what your optimal seating distance is. If you have two rows (or more) go by the first row unless that is "for kids" or whatever in which case pick the row you plan to sit in the most. This determines how big your screen can be (assuming there aren't other limitations, but it looks like you have a fairly large wall space to work with).

A general, but good, rule of thumb is a seating distance of 1.5 x screen width (not diagonal). If you are looking at a 150'' screen, that is 127'' wide (assuming you are going for a 16:9 screen and not something more exotic like a scope 2:35 size), so 1.5 is 190.5'', or about 15.5 feet for the main seating distance, give or take. Doesn't have to be exact down to the inch but it is a good rule of thumb.

This allows for a decent 30+ degree viewing angle which falls under SMPTE guidelines and won't tire your eyes, and is close enough to allow you to fully resolve 1080p detail. For 4k sources you might want to sit closer and slightly go down a screen size, though I doubt you have a true 4k projector.

Speaking of projectors you also want to factor in the throw (distance of the PJ lens to screen surface) which can be different than the seating distance if you are mounting overhead. Generally you want to get about 14ftl (foot lamberts) brightness for SDR content. For HDR you'll need over 30, though even if you have an HDR capable projector it's unlikely it is bright enough to do that - certainly not enough to light up a 150'' screen, unless your PJ cost over 15k USD. Getting 14ftl however is achievable by most modern PJs assuming your throw/screen ratio is correct.

To get that on a 150'' screen it really depends on the true calibrated lumen output (not what they advertise, those numbers are rarely correct - I have a "2200 lumen" PJ that calibrated puts out about 1000, for example) of your PJ, the throw ratio of the lens, etc. You can find calculators online at sites like https://www.projectorcentral.com which well help you figure this out based on model.

So, basically:

Determine the realistic "main" seating position that fits your room, furniture, etc.

Determine what capabilities your PJ has in terms of light output, throw ratio (zoom, etc.)

And finally pick the best sized screen based on the above, since you probably have more room to mount on your wall than you have a realistic screen size to occupy it.

This is all basic high level stuff - for more detail check out the site above. Another great resource, though a bit of a rabbit hole, is https://www.avsforum.com. If you want to do this right I highly recommend joining there, looking for the forum your projector is listed in (if it is remotely popular there's an owners thread on it) and start reading up.

Thank you for all the information. I ended up going with the Sony VPLHW45ES and the 150" Silver Ticket screen. A 150" screen plus projector for under 2k is pretty drat awesome in my opinion.

I am sure it would look nicer if I went with a more expensive screen but man I am honestly way happy



I still have to do some work calibrating it but so far I am really happy (especially that this projector has no rainbow effect).

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Gozinbulx
Feb 19, 2004
Looks great, congrats.

Chumbawumba4ever97
Dec 31, 2000

by Fluffdaddy
Thank you! Absolutely zero lag in game mode even though it's going through a DVDO Edge before even getting to the projector. I'm very happy with it

Aeka 2.0
Nov 16, 2000

:ohdear: Have you seen my apex seals? I seem to have lost them.




Dinosaur Gum
Replace the front two or three rows or ceiling tiles with black ones.

Zogo
Jul 29, 2003

I have an older projector that has DVI and VGA inputs and those two ports worked fine for years but now many are wanting to connect their iPhones and newer devices that no longer have those. They don't always have the cords to convert either.

I'm planning to buy at least these four cables to help:

-displayport to DVI-D
-mini displayport to DVI-D
-HDMI to DVI-D
-Lightning to HDMI (I'm assuming that I can use this with the HDMI to DVI-D adapter but I'm not 100% sure if that will work).

I think I'll skip the old Apple 30-pin (iPhone 4 era and older) to VGA at this point but am I forgetting any other common video port types? I'm just trying to cover all bases here and don't know if something else new is about to be released either.

Thanks.

Spazzle
Jul 5, 2003

I have an old BenQ SP831. The bulb works, but is pretty old by now so I'd like to get a replacement. There are a number on amazon that have a huge spread in cost, and I have no idea who is reputable or not. The BenQ website doesn't even have them in stock. Any advice?

bird with big dick
Oct 21, 2015

Uncle at Nintendo posted:

I'd like it to be 70" in height and about 140" wide, but with no border at all. I know borders are good to "suck in extra projector light" or whatever but I'd be much happier with the extra 10" or so that borderless would get me, if such a thing exists.

I know this is too late to matter in this case, but the difference really shouldn't be 10" unless you're looking at some really oddball screens.

And with a screen that large the border becomes a much less significant factor. On an 88" wide screen maybe I'd consider going borderless (I wouldn't), but on a 140" wide screen you're talking about losing ~3" in screen width on something like a Da-Lite Da-Snap, so barely 2%. Functionally you will never notice a difference that small.

You will, however, easily notice a significant difference in light bleed/apparent contrast and overscan by not having a border.

Chumbawumba4ever97
Dec 31, 2000

by Fluffdaddy

veiled boner fuel posted:

I know this is too late to matter in this case, but the difference really shouldn't be 10" unless you're looking at some really oddball screens.

And with a screen that large the border becomes a much less significant factor. On an 88" wide screen maybe I'd consider going borderless (I wouldn't), but on a 140" wide screen you're talking about losing ~3" in screen width on something like a Da-Lite Da-Snap, so barely 2%. Functionally you will never notice a difference that small.

You will, however, easily notice a significant difference in light bleed/apparent contrast and overscan by not having a border.

Thanks, I ended up going with a 150" that has an extremely thin border. It's just enough to catch overscan but not big enough that I feel like I'm losing anything. For $450 I'm extremely happy with it.

codo27
Apr 21, 2008

Why did I have to go researching this? I'm planning on buying a 65" 4K TV and that's honestly about all I can fit with my current setup but gently caress. I want a proper home theater. I have the sound. I want a big rear end loving screen. Maybe when we get all our ducks in a row and I can build on a proper rec room. What kinda life span do you generally get out of a good projector these days?

wolfbiker
Nov 6, 2009
Years and years...my W1070 is four years old and I've replaced the bulb once.

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?
Projector bulb life is kinda like SSD write wear, something that people who haven't actually owned the things end up worrying about a lot more than they really should.

In my experience a standard 3000 hour bulb is good for 3-5 years of moderate use. A few hours a day on average. I've actually never in 13 years of owning projectors had a bulb fail due to age, technology always moves along and I end up wanting something new, usually higher resolution. My one failure was entirely operator error, being way too stoned and bored during a thunderstorm and repeatedly turning it back on after power outages until it refused to turn on anymore.

Two of the three I've gotten rid of have been sold to friends though, and in both cases the bulbs went well beyond their ratings. One was in the 6000s when it finally gave out. Bulb warranties are a thing too if you're concerned, but IMO bulbs are not expensive enough to be worth worrying about.

Strabo4
Jun 1, 2007

Oh god, I'm 'sperging all
over this thread too!


In my experience they'll just gradually get dimmer and dimmer after the recommended. I'm probably the worst case (used as main TV, on 12hrs+ a day between the roommate and I) and new bulbs would start going noticeably dim about 1500 hours past their recommended (usually once they started to get close to 5k hours) but that's like two years of constant use.

The only time I had a bulb straight-up fail I was also turning the thing off and on while dusting it with compressed air, but then there was a pop and my bulb went green and died. So yeah, the bulbs don't take kindly to thermal shock.

Owlbear Camus
Jan 3, 2013

Maybe this guy that flies is just sort of passing through, you know?



I've a second-hand Sony projector manufactured in like 07-08 that I've had for two years.

Replaced a cheap 3rd party bulb a couple times and still going strong. I use it fairly frequently, it basically replaced my TV.

As long as you don't cheap out they seem reasonably durable.

Owlbear Camus fucked around with this message at 21:25 on Jul 6, 2018

wolfbiker
Nov 6, 2009
the OEM bulb that came with my W1070 exploded after about 2500 hours of use. i bought a 3rd party bulb for $90 off amazon and it's been good since.

pzy
Feb 20, 2004

Da Boom!
Really nice deal on a BenQ HT1070A:

https://slickdeals.net/f/11786223-benq-ht1070a-full-hd-dlp-home-theater-projector-379-b-h-photo-w-free-shipping

SimplyCosmic
May 18, 2004

It could be worse.

Not sure how, but it could be.
Maybe outside the purpose of this thread, but I'm thinking ahead to Halloween. I am looking to upgrade from the $70 projector I bought 2 years ago from Amazon to use with digital window decorations from AtmosFX.

Budget - Cheap (sub-$300)
Source - USB / SD card with digital video files played in a loop
Picture Size - Window is 72" x 54"
Screen - Back projecting on a translucent fabric screen

I understand the budget is tight, and corners will need to be cut. I think brightness may be more important than resolution with back-projection being viewed from the street.

My initial thought is a basic business projector like the Epson VS250 SVGA 3LCD for $279.99 at Best Buy. Unless there's a better option?

Aeka 2.0
Nov 16, 2000

:ohdear: Have you seen my apex seals? I seem to have lost them.




Dinosaur Gum
My 2014 JVC is still going strong. One bulb change. The only thing that will make me switch from this thing is when naitive 4k JVC projectors hit a reasonable price.

Aeka 2.0
Nov 16, 2000

:ohdear: Have you seen my apex seals? I seem to have lost them.




Dinosaur Gum

SimplyCosmic posted:

Maybe outside the purpose of this thread, but I'm thinking ahead to Halloween. I am looking to upgrade from the $70 projector I bought 2 years ago from Amazon to use with digital window decorations from AtmosFX.

Budget - Cheap (sub-$300)
Source - USB / SD card with digital video files played in a loop
Picture Size - Window is 72" x 54"
Screen - Back projecting on a translucent fabric screen

I understand the budget is tight, and corners will need to be cut. I think brightness may be more important than resolution with back-projection being viewed from the street.

My initial thought is a basic business projector like the Epson VS250 SVGA 3LCD for $279.99 at Best Buy. Unless there's a better option?

Yeah business projector with high lumens output. You really don't need the contrast ratio or resolution if its just funnin' for Halloween.

Aeka 2.0 fucked around with this message at 03:00 on Sep 15, 2018

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?
Have any of you seen any home theater class projectors that you feel actually do justice to HDR content? I'm talking in a dark room of course.

I'm feeling the urge to upgrade from my W1070 but everyone in the big TV thread seems to agree that HDR is more important than 4K alone and actual HDR support (as opposed to accepting HDR inputs but not really being capable of displaying it) is rare in home projectors. I don't mind "faux-K" pixel shifting since I only use it for movies and games, not PC display where every pixel actually matters, but I want that dynamic range.

Failing that, are any of you running a dual display configuration where you have the same A/V stack feeding both a TV and a projector that you can switch between depending on what you're doing? How do you have it set up and how do you like that? That's seeming like the most logical "plan B", to get a decent HDR flat panel display and use it when ultimate hugeness isn't the most important thing.

Aeka 2.0
Nov 16, 2000

:ohdear: Have you seen my apex seals? I seem to have lost them.




Dinosaur Gum
The only projectors that support HDR that I'm curious about are the JVC projectors. I have a 2014 model, right before they released the HDR models.

As far as splitting the signal I use an HD Fury Vertex as it does scaling.

Delzuma
Dec 4, 2004

Aeka 2.0 posted:

The only projectors that support HDR that I'm curious about are the JVC projectors. I have a 2014 model, right before they released the HDR models.

As far as splitting the signal I use an HD Fury Vertex as it does scaling.

What’s the reasoning behind using something like a HDFury as opposed to running the video through my receiver and having that upscale? And how does input switching work if you’re running your video through something like this?

Aeka 2.0
Nov 16, 2000

:ohdear: Have you seen my apex seals? I seem to have lost them.




Dinosaur Gum
It does input switching with auto detect, but I would do input switching with the receiver.

As far as output switching the beauty of the HDFury is that it is mostly a splitter that will simultaneously output the proper resolution and color for both displays , it also fixes odd handshake problems caused by elaborate setups, fixes HDR flags that aren't working the way you may or may not want them to function.
You may just need a simple switch and this could be overkill, but I would look at the software and see if it has something you want.

Ixian
Oct 9, 2001

Many machines on Ix....new machines
Pillbug

wolrah posted:

Have any of you seen any home theater class projectors that you feel actually do justice to HDR content? I'm talking in a dark room of course.

I'm feeling the urge to upgrade from my W1070 but everyone in the big TV thread seems to agree that HDR is more important than 4K alone and actual HDR support (as opposed to accepting HDR inputs but not really being capable of displaying it) is rare in home projectors. I don't mind "faux-K" pixel shifting since I only use it for movies and games, not PC display where every pixel actually matters, but I want that dynamic range.

Failing that, are any of you running a dual display configuration where you have the same A/V stack feeding both a TV and a projector that you can switch between depending on what you're doing? How do you have it set up and how do you like that? That's seeming like the most logical "plan B", to get a decent HDR flat panel display and use it when ultimate hugeness isn't the most important thing.


I have the JVC DLA-RS540U. It is a great PJ that does HDR very well however it's considerably more expensive than the W1070 - you can get them for around $3500 these days. 4k and HDR with front projectors isn't cheap.

There are cheaper PJs that do the same like the Epson but none of them do HDR nearly as well as the JVCs, the latter also still lead the pack when it comes to true contrast ratio.

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?

Ixian posted:

I have the JVC DLA-RS540U. It is a great PJ that does HDR very well however it's considerably more expensive than the W1070 - you can get them for around $3500 these days. 4k and HDR with front projectors isn't cheap.

There are cheaper PJs that do the same like the Epson but none of them do HDR nearly as well as the JVCs, the latter also still lead the pack when it comes to true contrast ratio.

Yeah, I of course am well aware that proper HDR from a projector is going to be expensive. So far all the reviews I've read on consumer-tier HDR projectors have been less than impressed, so mostly I'm trying to gauge how far up the range you have to go to actually have it be good which will then give me a rough idea of how far off it is from something I can afford and maybe which technologies to keep an eye on.

edit: I hadn't looked at the JVCs, but they just really turned me off the second I tried to with their popup bitching about unauthorized distributors. I loving hate that part of the home theater world, the "our gear is special and we won't support anyone who doesn't hire some expensive idiot to bolt it to the ceiling" nonsense. I'm a nerd who likes to play with my gadgets. Designing, installing, and configuring it is part of the fun.

wolrah fucked around with this message at 18:16 on Nov 5, 2018

codo27
Apr 21, 2008

I didn't know JVC was still a thing. When I think JVC I think of those crazy bookshelf stereos my friends had growing up

Aeka 2.0
Nov 16, 2000

:ohdear: Have you seen my apex seals? I seem to have lost them.




Dinosaur Gum

codo27 posted:

I didn't know JVC was still a thing. When I think JVC I think of those crazy bookshelf stereos my friends had growing up

I won't buy anything but JVC for projectors right now. Apparently they did a lot of military simulation. Home theater is a bit of a toy to them.

Ixian
Oct 9, 2001

Many machines on Ix....new machines
Pillbug

wolrah posted:


edit: I hadn't looked at the JVCs, but they just really turned me off the second I tried to with their popup bitching about unauthorized distributors. I loving hate that part of the home theater world, the "our gear is special and we won't support anyone who doesn't hire some expensive idiot to bolt it to the ceiling" nonsense. I'm a nerd who likes to play with my gadgets. Designing, installing, and configuring it is part of the fun.

They aren't any worse than anyone else in this specialized world, and you can absolutely buy them for under MSRP and install them yourself; I did. Their ire is aimed at grey-market dealers, which in the high margin home cinema PJ world are legion. Just work with a reputable local dealer, or AVScience online. You don't need to hire an installer to get the warranty even with the RS/Pro units.


codo27 posted:

I didn't know JVC was still a thing. When I think JVC I think of those crazy bookshelf stereos my friends had growing up

They are the kings for home theater projectors and have been for years - no one does black level better, at least not at under 10k USD price points - and JVC is still a massive company with fingers in a thousand different pies. They just stepped back from low margin consumer electronics to a certain degree, which probably worked out well for them.

Aeka 2.0
Nov 16, 2000

:ohdear: Have you seen my apex seals? I seem to have lost them.




Dinosaur Gum
So you can indeed walk into a store and get a non gold ring version for under msrp? And here I bought my last one at the gray market as a refurb.

Ixian
Oct 9, 2001

Many machines on Ix....new machines
Pillbug

Aeka 2.0 posted:

So you can indeed walk into a store and get a non gold ring version for under msrp? And here I bought my last one at the gray market as a refurb.


I don't know about retail - probably, somewhere - but AVScience is an official JVC distributor and will two-day ship you one for under MSRP anywhere in the US. Just call them, they are super helpful and the kind of company that exists because they love home theater so much.

nervana
Dec 9, 2010
Hey everybody, I'm looking into getting a projector and I am intimidated by all the information out there. I would appreciate any recommendations or tips. It will primarily be used to watch movies with my Macbook pro (USB-c). Is it also possible to input a Comcast cablebox directly into it to watch TV? (I don't have a TV). Budget is <1000$, but cheaper is better obviously. I will be using it in my apartment living room, onto a wall maybe 12 feet away maximum.

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?
My BenQ W1070 finally popped its original bulb at 4354 hours. I feel like that's a pretty solid run over something like three years. Picked up a replacement bulb assembly from the recommended seller on Amazon, so far it's definitely brighter. We'll see if it's a quality product over the next few years I guess.

wolrah fucked around with this message at 01:24 on Jan 18, 2019

snickothemule
Jul 11, 2016

wretched single ply might as well use my socks
Over the holidays I bought my first projector and I'd thought I share my experience. My goal was something with an led light source as I didn't want to deal with bulbs, something somewhat portable, bright enough to be comfortable for general movie watching, gaming and 1080p as an ideal. This lead me to look through a slew of DLP projectors, a good portion of them China models like XGIMI or JMGO.

In the end I chose a JMGO Nut X3, a reportedly 4k projector that can also be used as a bluetooth speaker box with a 1500 lumen LED light source. Being a China only model it has no English menu's so I had to use google photo translate to decipher the kung fu. I wasn't sure about the gaming aspect but from what I've seen on blogs it looked promising.



Unlike other projectors using single Texas Instruments 0.47 DLP chips, this one uses two side by side, effectively giving 3840x1080 with vertical pixel shifting to get to the "4k" resolution. I thought it would be a bit of fluff but turns out it works very well, no pixel gaps and running video and games in 4k is pretty astounding. There is a bug that had the right side of the image inverted, but a firmware update had fixed it (I never experienced it).

(Please excuse the crummy Galaxy S8 phone pics)





This was a temporary setup for me to understand the nature of the unit. It has a fixed lens (all glass, not plastic) but that's ok for my usage. Got it running with some vertical alignment (it also has 4 point keystone correction) with some old dvd gives, gives a pretty ok picture and at night with some lights on, it's certainly watchable and not a huge problem. Something I was a bit worried about. Switching it up to some blu-rays, even playing on a crappy green wall was mostly acceptible, however I was dealing with heavy lip sync issues and found it a bit unbearable.

By pressing the bottom middle button gives you access to the picture modes, out of the box looks ok but changing it to custom gives much better sound sync and image options. You can only change brightness, contrast, saturation and sharpness, pretty barebones with no further tweaking.

Which brings me onto gaming, in that mode there is low enough lag to make things enjoyable enough, but it's still entirely comfortable with latency. Thankfully there is a game mode, and after changing the machine to boot directly to hdmi to bypass the built in android system, it honestly feels like a normal monitor. Completely responsive and I can do some pinpoint accuracy CAD work with no perceivable issue. I'm honestly a bit amazed as I expected that to be the biggest compromise when it comes to usage.

As for brightness setting I have it set up in eco mode, it's the only way to make whites look white, anything above it, be it normal or full brightness introduces a huge amount of green and with no way (at least that I can find) to change the colour temperature, I'm kinda stuck on eco.

Eventually I set up a 120" screen with 0.9 gain and was pretty happy with the end result (I'm still super new to projectors so everything is exciting).




(again please excuse the phone pics)

Gaming in 4k on this thing is a dream, running it from my 1080ti is a dream with 60hz playback and exceptionally great low latency. Currently I'm jumping between EDF 4.1 and Breath of the Wild on Wii U.

Finally this thing is supposed to do HDR, and while it can decode it, I had to bump the brightness up to around 80 (from 55 for other media) to get the effect to take hold, but it's not an overly strong variant. OLED still seems to be the best for HDR from what I've seen, but for big screen it's a nice addition, but not a key essential feature.



The sound from this unit is very good, I haven't had any desire to connect up surround sound so for the moment I'm happy with watching movies this way. Bass is acceptable and the loudness is enough to fill the room without it sounding too distorted.

----

TLDR for my first projector I'm very happy it ticks all the boxes I was hoping to get. No rainbow effect, comfortable to watch, great brightness for night, ok for day, great for movies, amazing for gaming and the "4k" performance is very nice.

snickothemule fucked around with this message at 05:30 on Feb 21, 2019

HERAK
Dec 1, 2004
This might be asking for a unicorn but here goes.

I'm traveling a lot for work now usually in one place for a week or so. Is there a small portable projector that will do a 32" to 40"or thereabouts image at 1080p, assuming I'll be using it at night or in relatively light controlled environments. Anyone have any suggestions? Using it for watching some tv/films and some gaming.

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?
That sounds like a pretty much perfect use case for one of those LED-lit DLP pocket projectors. A lot of them are really cheap WVGA or WXGA junk but there are a few in the $500-600ish range that are actually native 1080p. They'll all claim enough light to shoot a 100-120" image and that's total bullshit unless the room is perfectly dark, but they should be great for small sizes.

Hob_Gadling
Jul 6, 2007

by Jeffrey of YOSPOS
Grimey Drawer

HERAK posted:

This might be asking for a unicorn but here goes.

I'm traveling a lot for work now usually in one place for a week or so. Is there a small portable projector that will do a 32" to 40"or thereabouts image at 1080p, assuming I'll be using it at night or in relatively light controlled environments. Anyone have any suggestions? Using it for watching some tv/films and some gaming.

Maybe something from LG CineBeam would be ok for you? Especially HU80KA is nice, but it's quite expensive. It's also more draggable than portable.


https://www.amazon.com/LG-PF50KA-Portable-Theater-Projector/dp/B07BHRRWH5

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BVMSMRN/ref=emc_b_5_t

Riller
Jun 16, 2008
We bought a Nebula Mars Lite. We originally bought it for use in the back yard but also use it in our bedroom instead of a TV. It's only 720p, but honestly I don't really know that I can tell the difference. I like that it has a rechargeable battery, and even though the Lite doesn't have built-in Android/wifi, we just plug a Fire Stick in and use that. Got ours on eBay for just over $200 new and are very pleased with it so far.

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?
Yeah, if it weren't for the resolution requirement I was going to suggest the Nebula Capsule II for its entirely self-contained operation.

Wheeler W Wetherby
Sep 30, 2004

  • Has an O-level in camel-hygiene
  • Can count up to 4
Small question, not sure where else to ask this.

I have a projector that put two HDMI slots too close to one another so that a standard HDMI cable won't fit next to my Roku stick. I shaved off some of the rubber from the HDMI cable head and it fits now, but I shaved enough to get down to metal. I doubt I cut the metal since I was using a box cutter. Dangerous? Any other solutions?

TomR
Apr 1, 2003
I both own and operate a pirate ship.
Get a really short HDMI cable and plug your stick into it. That said the metal you hit is the casing of the connector and if it's electrically wired to anything at all it would be ground, so not dangerous IMO.

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DarkHorse
Dec 13, 2006

Nap Ghost
Yeah biggest worry would be it shorting and causing interference with the signal. There's not enough current to be dangerous to a person, and it's probably not going to be enough that it could damage the equipment.

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