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The spinning dispenser is done (again) and hoo boy while doing the core at 0.1mm took forever (ok 7.5 hours) it was really cool seeing how fine the detail on the side of the core is. Layer adhesion is spot on with no tweaks to the default profiles for all 3 parts, unlike the monoprice one which shows a lot of layer adhesion issues on the sides of the can. The dimensional accuracy was so good I barely had to ream the holes out, and mostly that was to clear out some minor stringing. Unfortunately the accuracy is so much better than the monoprice that the core/can fit isn't as tight, but so far it is holding. Might have to glue it later though. Also I had to use a 5mm screw as intended instead of a 4mm screw, but whatever. I think it would take about 6-7 hours to produce another one at 0.2mm height, as compared to about 24 hours total for the one on the monoprice mini.
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Jul 6, 2018 02:05
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| # ? Jun 11, 2024 12:32 |
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You might find this video interesting. It's all obvious but seeing the comparisons side by side with the print time made it really hit home that I need to buy a variety of nozzles. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XvSNQ7rVDio
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Jul 6, 2018 04:31
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I wish it took less effort to swap nozzles. I mean, it's not hard, I just never wanna bother. That'd be a big reason for me to pick up a dual nozzle printer; leave one head with a .6 or .8 nozzle, one on .4 or less. Hopefully someone mainstreams a better solution by the time I can justify another printer.
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Jul 6, 2018 05:39
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I bought a bunch of E3Dv6 knockoffs on AliExpress for like $10 each so I can just swap the entire hotend out instead. I fitted the heater cartridge and thermistor with a 4-pin connector (I use Molex Micro-Fit Jr) so I don't have to gently caress around with the wiring. It took a while to set up initially, but now I can switch between 0.25mm, 0.4mm, and 1mm volcano in about 5 minutes, including the time to reset the z-offset.
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Jul 6, 2018 05:45
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Benchy! Printed with the default 0.1mm settings for the mk3 for the silver PLA they send with the printer. Took about 3-3.5 hours.
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Jul 7, 2018 14:54
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cephalopods posted:I wish it took less effort to swap nozzles. I mean, it's not hard, I just never wanna bother. That'd be a big reason for me to pick up a dual nozzle printer; leave one head with a .6 or .8 nozzle, one on .4 or less. Hopefully someone mainstreams a better solution by the time I can justify another printer. Every time I set my spanner against the heater block next to those bare thermistor wire I expect it to be the time that I slip and break them. It's pretty cool to be able to print poo poo with a .25 or .15 nozzle though, so I keep doing it.
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Jul 7, 2018 17:22
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My printer actually came with a spare hotend + heater/thermistor and there's a little board at the top of the carriage with plugs. It would be an easy swap, except I've rebuilt most of that carriage and I'd have to dismantle my bottom panel and LED ring. And since I'm taking that off, I might as well install the improved replacement. But I haven't printed that yet, so...
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Jul 7, 2018 18:16
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NeurosisHead posted:Every time I set my spanner against the heater block next to those bare thermistor wire I expect it to be the time that I slip and break them. It's pretty cool to be able to print poo poo with a .25 or .15 nozzle though, so I keep doing it. There was a demo at a maker faire where the printer had machine codes to replace the entire extruder. It was built with faster and more accurate multi-material but I can see replacing one extruder with a new nozzle . Edit: I can't find the video. What it did was had several preloaded and connected heads that sat to the side with one head mounted on the carriage. It had a machine code to switch to another head by moving the head it had on to the ledge by unscrewing it out and then screwing into another head. The way it screwed in made sure it was never misaligned with z . EVIL Gibson fucked around with this message at 00:32 on Jul 8, 2018 |
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Jul 8, 2018 00:22
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A number of different companies and people have experimented with tool changers for 3D printers. E3D has a particularly nice implementation, I think: https://e3d-online.com/blog/2018/03/21/tool-changer-q
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Jul 8, 2018 00:38
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I got drunk one day when eBay was having a 15% off up to $100 discount sale and bought what I thought was a Creality CR-10S but is actually a Chinesium CTC-10S where the S on the LCD is a backwards 2. Its my first 3D printer and I know jack poo poo. First print inbound. I used to do CNC programming and am an engineer so I intuitively get some of it but other than that know jack poo poo about 3D printing. The bed seems a little fucky-wompus but I got it kinda levelish with a .003" clearance and hit go. We'll see how the huba3h.gcode file that came with it prints.  Questions: Have you all heard any reports of viruses embedded in the controllers or SD cards of these things? The misleading ebay ad, unbranded Chinese SD card and total lack of EMI shielding on the wires doesnt scream controlled, secure process. Also there seems to be some dedicated modders of these that use an Arduino to flash the firmware. I have an Arduino laying around and can maybe figure out if this is compatible with that firmware but...why do people do this? CarForumPoster fucked around with this message at 02:33 on Jul 8, 2018 |
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Jul 8, 2018 02:30
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CarForumPoster posted:
Because it is an Arduino. Marlin, the firmware that runs on it, was originally written for the Arduino mega. I don't know the exact electronics, but you probably don't even need an additional Arduino. As far as why you want to do it, then you could enable safety features that might be off, or do things like add a mesh bed probe for easier leveling. Or just update Marlin when a new version comes out with some random bug fix, as many of the cheap printers get whatever they get, and no further updates.
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Jul 8, 2018 02:52
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Aurium posted:Because it is an Arduino. Marlin, the firmware that runs on it, was originally written for the Arduino mega. I don't know the exact electronics, but you probably don't even need an additional Arduino. Neat. I walked out to see the print and the controller said printing but the nozzle wasnt moving. Pausing, homing and resuming did nothing. The nozzle is printing red 1.75mm PLA filament that came with it but had these brown nuggets on it.  Any thoughts? I'm not sure what to google on this as brown PLA nuggets turned up nothing.
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Jul 8, 2018 03:13
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CarForumPoster posted:Neat. Install pronterface on your computer, then plugin your printer and connect to it with the pronterface program. Try executing the gcode in that file one command at a time. Look at a gcode command reference and make sure it's doing what the commad should be doing. https://reprap.org/wiki/G-code I'm guessing your problem is that the gcode didn't home the printer first (G28). Most firmwares don't allow the machine to move until it homes because it has no point of reference as to where the origin is.
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Jul 8, 2018 04:11
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That brown stuff came out of the nozzle, right? It looks like thermally decomposed PLA. If you leave the hotend on without extruding for like half an hour, the plastic inside the hot section will break down into brown goo that drips out and makes blobs like that until you purge the decomposed section. I also would suggest skipping the SD card test prints at this point and just plugging your computer in directly. Install some print control software and click the buttons and try to get manual control over your machine. Heat up the extruder to 200C and try to extrude 100mm of filament, and verify that the extruder turns and the filament comes out of the nozzle. Find the terminal section and send a G28 command and hopefully the machine should reset to its zero points. Click the movement buttons and verify that you can reach all the corners. If all of that works, then it's probably just that the SD card g-code is hosed, but something you slice yourself should work fine.
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Jul 8, 2018 04:22
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yergacheffe posted:Install pronterface on your computer, then plugin your printer and connect to it with the pronterface program. Try executing the gcode in that file one command at a time. Look at a gcode command reference and make sure it's doing what the commad should be doing. I did home the printer when I powered it on and while I havent looked at the gcode yet it did start the program by bouncing on the limit switches which I'd assume is it homing, no idea if its a G00 X0 Y0 Z0 or G28/G53. I hit resume print and it has made it well past the point it locked up at before (~20% in). It is still spitting out bits of "decomposed PLA" and has been printing for the last 60 minutes with little brown nuggets here and there. Hooking it straight up to my computer makes me real nervous from a security perspective :-/ I'll look into some options and user reviews though. EDIT: I found a paper on google scholar that had a TGA of some PLA. My Nozzle temp the first time was 195°C and the PLA they were using showed a rapid increase in decomposition starting around 250°C so I suppose its possible that some part within the nozzle got up that high if the flow rate wasnt constant due to a snag or clog or something. EDIT2: I happened to catch it poo poo one of the little nuggets out. It basically froze in place for a second while the extruder continued to run and the output was a brown nugget. CarForumPoster fucked around with this message at 04:45 on Jul 8, 2018 |
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Jul 8, 2018 04:28
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Sounds like low quality filament, or you need to run a PID tune on the hotend. Could also be extruder skipping, inconsistent size on filament, etc. Simplify3D had a good troubleshooting guide on general stuff, just Google it.
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Jul 8, 2018 12:35
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Chef De Cuisinart posted:Sounds like low quality filament, or you need to run a PID tune on the hotend. Could also be extruder skipping, inconsistent size on filament, etc. Simplify3D had a good troubleshooting guide on general stuff, just Google it. Second attempt finished in 3 hrs with no issues. I'd wager that the free filament that came with my knockoff of a knockoff is about as low quality as one can get. Their troubleshooting guide looks awesome: https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/ None of those really hit the nail square on the head but meh, I am happy with the little figureine and will move on to project 2, a desk nameplate.
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Jul 8, 2018 13:47
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Just bought an Ender 3. After calibration and trying to set the bed level, the test print ended up getting a large blob of PLA stuck to the hotend. I’m thinking that it’s a leveling issue or that my bed is warped, though I’m not sure the best way to troubleshoot. Leveling was done using feeler gauges, so I’m pretty sure I’ve got that right, so I suspect it’s a bed warping issue, but could use some more experienced advice on this. The issue I’m seeing is that I’ll get a decent start laying down the initial bed, then something fucks up or catches, and the filament starts blobbing to the hotend. Still need to clean it out after I thought I had it fixed last night, but woke up to a huge blob on it this morning. I have a spare arduino somewhere if flashing the firmware is recommended, but seeing as it’s my first experience with 3d printing, I thought that sticking with the defaults would be a good idea. I’ve got a few other tweaks on deck (dampeners, TL smoothers, etc), but I figured starting slow is a good idea. At least even loving up and troubleshooting is kind of fun?
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Jul 8, 2018 16:06
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If the filament is blobbing up on the nozzle, it's usually one of two things: 1) the initial layer is not sticking to the bed, and it's curling up and getting caught and dragged around 2) the machine is overextruding, and the extra material is getting stuck to the nozzle If the layer's not sticking, either the bed isn't properly leveled, the initial layer height is set wrong, or the bed is not heated/treated properly. If the machine is overextruding, it could be because of improper settings in filament diameter/e-steps per mm/extrusion temperature/retraction. Also some filaments are just stickier than others. I've found that XT-CF20 carbon-filled PETG, for instance, almost instantly balls up, probably from a combination of PETG's natural stickiness and the carbon particles making the extruded surface a bit rough and catchy. Nothing you can really do about that other than putting on a nozzle sock or deliberately underextruding a tiny bit to reduce the chances of sticky-uppy parts.
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Jul 8, 2018 16:32
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Sounds like a good set out troubleshooting issues. Further examination revealed that the frame is a bit off-square, so that may have been the issue due to causing the z-axis to bind up slightly. Managed to fix that, so that’s good. Of course, in the process of removing the excess plastic from the hotend, the thermal sensor wires managed to get stripped out and broke, and it’s delicate enough that I haven’t been able to fix that. Any recommendations for a replacement hotend assembly? Figure I can order that along with a glass plate to put down on the bed to fix the warping issue. It’s really dumb that fixing stupid problems is still remarkably fun on this.
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Jul 8, 2018 18:17
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Does anybody have experience ordering stuff they designed in Shapeway's high-res materials? It it possible to reorient the modelin their interface? I know you could do it before, but the functionality seems to be gone. I've written to their support, but they aren't answering :-/ Edit: Never mind, figured it out, the button is just well hidden on another screen. Dr Hemulen fucked around with this message at 18:55 on Jul 8, 2018 |
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Jul 8, 2018 18:21
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cephalopods posted:I wish it took less effort to swap nozzles. I mean, it's not hard, I just never wanna bother. That'd be a big reason for me to pick up a dual nozzle printer; leave one head with a .6 or .8 nozzle, one on .4 or less. Hopefully someone mainstreams a better solution by the time I can justify another printer. My problem with swapping nozzles isn't the time, but that whenever I do it, my Z offset needs to be tweaked. I don't understand why, my nozzles are all the same height.
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Jul 8, 2018 21:06
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you apply a slightly different amount of tension every time you screw one in, resulting in them ending up inserted to different depths, the threads don't always engage on the same start, the tips get slightly worn down over time, the entire hotend gets shifted a little bit when you take it out and reinstall it, etc. these are very subtle differences but when we're talking about something that can be hosed up by being off by a tenth of a millimeter, well
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Jul 8, 2018 22:35
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Weird, just had the Prusa stop in the middle of a print. Must have hit some bad gcode or something. Ah well, reslice and start over.
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Jul 9, 2018 02:02
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Parts Kit posted:Weird, just had the Prusa stop in the middle of a print. Must have hit some bad gcode or something. Ah well, reslice and start over. Just like, stop dead? I've had some false positives for crash detection, but not that.
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Jul 9, 2018 03:52
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Yeah just stopped doing anything right in the middle of a long print. Figured it was a filament sensor error but nope, didn't want me to insert anything. Restarted it and did a quickie print and it was fine.
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Jul 9, 2018 12:18
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Did it say anything about thermal protection? I had my MK2.5 stop recently because the fan dropped the temperature too much. The new fan duct seems to cool the hotend more than the old one. Gotta tweak the PID values.
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Jul 9, 2018 15:11
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So pressure advance on long rear end Bowden tubes is a thing. I'm using a value of 1 and it has improved my blobbing so far but it has made my test piece significantly slower. Hmm, I'll need to tweak
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Jul 9, 2018 15:45
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I received my Prusa MK3 kit on Friday and somehow managed to get it up and running by Sunday night. I gotta say, I'm pretty impressed with myself.
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Jul 9, 2018 18:10
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BMan posted:Did it say anything about thermal protection? I had my MK2.5 stop recently because the fan dropped the temperature too much. The new fan duct seems to cool the hotend more than the old one. Gotta tweak the PID values. That’s the weird part, there were no error messages. It just...stopped.
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Jul 9, 2018 18:16
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Parts Kit posted:That’s the weird part, there were no error messages. It just...stopped. I've had slicers generate corrupted gcode that just stops. I've found the way marlin estimates time to completion is accurate, so if you seem to be printing like 5 times as fast as per the readout it's likely a bad slice
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Jul 9, 2018 18:26
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Parts Kit posted:That’s the weird part, there were no error messages. It just...stopped. I've had that happen to me before, and it was incomplete g-code on a MK2S.
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Jul 9, 2018 20:35
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I got my Ender 3 in. Built it and had quite a few issues I gradually fixed one by one (bed wobble and under extrusion mostly). Had I not had to fix my mini v2 a few times I am not sure I would have known what to look for. Now it is up and running and getting great prints but maybe not the best printer for a first timer for sure.
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Jul 9, 2018 21:27
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Megabound posted:I've had that happen to me before, and it was incomplete g-code on a MK2S. Eject the SD card before you yank it from the computer.
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Jul 9, 2018 21:41
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insta posted:Eject the SD card before you yank it from the computer. Or just use something like Repeteir Host or Octoprint, like I do now.
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Jul 9, 2018 21:57
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yeah a raspberry pi and octoprint is by far the best upgrade you can make to any 3d printer you're planning to use more than like once a month
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Jul 9, 2018 22:11
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Haven't printed anything in forever since getting one, then two, cats. Just worried theyd see it moving and decide to try and play with it. So I finally got an enclosure for it. Originally was going to build the ikea lack one but that required effort so I got the Wanhao made I3 acrylic enclosure seen here: https://ultimate3dprintingstore.com/products/wanhao-duplicator-3-series-3d-printer-part-brand-new-plexiglass-acrylic-enclosure-kit but yeah this: Got it today and just assembled it. Not a huge deal breaker but something I wish I'd known, it doesn't attach to the printer in any way. You just prop it up in front of and in back of your printer. Great in terms of getting it out of the way when you are done printing because you can just lift it away. Im guessing its not going to be so great at keeping determined curious cat-jerks out so I'll need to find something to do that. Its held together by tiny screws and nuts but I am probably going to swing by home depot and grab some foil backed tape to seal the seams and add some extra stability (and it can handle the changing temps). So review thus far: not worth 90 bucks. Blackchamber fucked around with this message at 16:52 on Jul 10, 2018 |
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Jul 9, 2018 22:26
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Megabound posted:I've had that happen to me before, and it was incomplete g-code on a MK2S. insta posted:Eject the SD card before you yank it from the computer.
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Jul 10, 2018 00:01
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Reprint with a fresh slice worked fine, so I'm chocking it up to a bad gcode file.
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Jul 10, 2018 08:42
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| # ? Jun 11, 2024 12:32 |
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Me every time time I print with black PLA instead of coloured: "These parts look much stronger." I'm literally a mechanical engineer 
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Jul 11, 2018 02:00
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