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milk paint?
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Jul 11, 2018 02:03
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Re: the 1/2" blade on the bandsaw. I ran it over a stone for a bit, increased the tension more (this was too difficult before -- I think some of the parts need a little breaking in at first), and just used it for a while, and the back-and-forth wobble improved quite a bit. It's still there, just barely noticeable. I made some shelving and ripped some long pieces, and the cut is actually remarkably straight and acceptably smooth (minor sanding makes a decent surface). I'm a huge fan of this bandsaw. I have another problem: I have lived with this built-in desk and cabinets in my office for the last 7 years and now have way more melamine coated particle board than I'm happy with. I do not plan on using this in any big projects. I already used some of it as an infeed/outfeed table for the bandsaw to rip some long heavy pieces. Any other ideas for utility pieces? My garage is a mess now with excess spare/junk/rough lumber as I prepare to get my floors refinished. Can't wait to get started on remaking my office. Want to build a desk, but I'll probably wait until next year when I have more money and a table saw.
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Jul 11, 2018 02:49
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Apollodorus posted:So I was going to ask a more interesting woodworking question, but this is probably more practical and relevant: We're doing this right now, and here's our process - Our cabinets are polyurethaned wood, so first step is a light sanding to scuff up the surface for better adhesion. We are then rolling/brushing a couple coats of oil based primer, lightly sanding between coats to minimize brush strokes, and help even out some of the grain. Then we're doing two coats of latex paint through a paint sprayer (on the doors, that is - The frames are getting the paint rolled on). So far, it looks great. Not mirror smooth or anything, but a very nice finish.
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Jul 11, 2018 02:57
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Kudaros posted:I have another problem: I have lived with this built-in desk and cabinets in my office for the last 7 years and now have way more melamine coated particle board than I'm happy with. I do not plan on using this in any big projects. I already used some of it as an infeed/outfeed table for the bandsaw to rip some long heavy pieces. Any other ideas for utility pieces? My garage is a mess now with excess spare/junk/rough lumber as I prepare to get my floors refinished. If this is relevant to your vehicle, cut a piece to fit the cargo area to protect the floor when hauling heavy things.
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Jul 11, 2018 02:59
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Kudaros posted:Re: the 1/2" blade on the bandsaw. I ran it over a stone for a bit, increased the tension more (this was too difficult before -- I think some of the parts need a little breaking in at first), and just used it for a while, and the back-and-forth wobble improved quite a bit. It's still there, just barely noticeable. I made some shelving and ripped some long pieces, and the cut is actually remarkably straight and acceptably smooth (minor sanding makes a decent surface). I'm a huge fan of this bandsaw.
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Jul 11, 2018 04:15
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Behold my mediocre first attempt at wooden utensils: Aside from the divots from the forster I hollowed out most of the spoon with I'm surprised by how not-poo poo they came out. Just have to do some detail sanding between the fork tines and put some finish on it now.
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Jul 11, 2018 04:21
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What kind of wood are they made of?
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Jul 11, 2018 04:52
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Mahogany of some sort, I'm not sure which variety.
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Jul 11, 2018 05:21
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I used black spray rustoleum to cover the chipped japanning on all my old hand planes, it looks great?
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Jul 11, 2018 13:47
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Javid posted:Behold my mediocre first attempt at wooden utensils: Spankme sticks? You innovator, you. Platystemon posted:What kind of wood are they made of? Look like lauan, aka Philippine mahogany.
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Jul 11, 2018 14:27
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Just a heads up on the Saga of my Charuterie board. I sand-stripped it as advised from folks above. and in sanding it to finer and finer grits, I think I realized why I wasn't happy with it's look. I didn't sand high enough, and I didn't wet sand, and I didn't sand with mineral oil coats. So while I just added some coats of Mineral Oil yesterday, and buffed out the third (or 4th, I forget) after it got tacky, and it is not, technically, glossy, it already has a PHENOMENALLY more pleasing feel, because it feels smooth like glass from the better sanding. Thanks all!
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Jul 11, 2018 19:32
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Feenix posted:Just a heads up on the Saga of my Charuterie board. slap your meat on that board and post a pic
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Jul 11, 2018 21:53
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Super 3 posted:slap your meat on that board and post a pic Not putting anything on it until it’s settled/dried a bit, but here it is.  No it’s not the size of my backyard. Just a funny perspective. Feenix fucked around with this message at 00:13 on Jul 12, 2018 |
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Jul 11, 2018 23:27
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That pic reminded me I need to actually bother slapping some oil on the cutting boards I made LAST summer. They've been just sitting in my living room next to the bottle of cutting board oil since then.  So now, the complete kitchen collection:  Fork yet unfinished, still some sanding to do, plus it highlights how dark the oil makes that wood. The cutting boards got one coat of oil on the bottom and sides, then one coat on the sides every 2-3 coats on the top, since that's the important part. There will probably be a lot of top coats, too, I'm 5 deep now and it's still happily shlorping up oil into that end grain.
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Jul 12, 2018 09:16
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Posted this in the metalworking thread but the more I think about it, it's more of a woodworking thing. Got myself a grinder which will mainly be used for axes, chisels, plane blades etc:  A pretty cool multiple pulley system here, it rotates a whole lot slower than you'd imagine if it was just two pulleys connected to a motor, in that case the upper pulley would have to be as big as the grinding wheel. 
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Jul 12, 2018 16:10
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Wow, that wheel looks like it's in awesome shape. They're usually destroyed from people turning them into yard cart around here. I'd love a legit stone wet grinder like that for resetting bevels.
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Jul 12, 2018 16:34
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What kind of stone is that made of?
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Jul 12, 2018 17:11
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No idea, some local natural stone most likely. I'm trying to do some research into it to see what kind of stone it might be. A popular source of wheels like this was from Gotland, called "gotlandssten" but they look greyish and I have not seen the same kind of striations on them.
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Jul 12, 2018 18:15
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Wood movement frightens me. I need a resource to learn about it and what I can do to mitigate it.
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Jul 12, 2018 18:18
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If you follow traditional building techniques, handling wood movement is mostly a solved problem built into the techniques. Two books discussing that are "The Essential Woodworker" and "The Complete Illustrated Guide to Furniture and Cabinet Construction". If you want to dive into the nitty gritty details, the Forest Product Laboratory provides a free handbook called "Wood Handbook, Wood as an Engineering Material". Google it and check out chapter 4. Lost Art Press also published two books about wood aimed at woodworkers, "With the Grain" and "Cut and Dried".
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Jul 12, 2018 18:46
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His Divine Shadow posted:No idea, some local natural stone most likely. I'm trying to do some research into it to see what kind of stone it might be. A popular source of wheels like this was from Gotland, called "gotlandssten" but they look greyish and I have not seen the same kind of striations on them. From the grain and striations I'm like 90% sure that's some variety of sandstone. It looks really course, too.
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Jul 12, 2018 18:49
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djfooboo posted:Wood movement frightens me. I need a resource to learn about it and what I can do to mitigate it. Bruce Hoadley's book "Understanding Wood" is about as good a source as you can get. When my cousin was getting a PhD in Wood Science, he said that book was always his go-to quick reference cheat sheet. Roy Underhill's "The Woodwright's Guide" also does a very good job of explaining what is going on in very simple, practical terms.
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Jul 12, 2018 19:23
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Leperflesh posted:From the grain and striations I'm like 90% sure that's some variety of sandstone. It looks really course, too. Yeah some kind of sandstone. After some googling. Stones from Orsa, Sweden seem to fit the type of color I'm seeing here, so might be an Orsa stone. Here's someone from there with family in the business responding to some other guy on a swedish forum: quote:Orsa may be my area ...
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Jul 12, 2018 20:09
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Lee Valley / Veritas got the free shipping thing going again for a few days. http://www.leevalley.com/us/
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Jul 13, 2018 14:42
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Leperflesh posted:From the grain and striations I'm like 90% sure that's some variety of sandstone. It looks really course, too. that was the obvious answer to me as well but all the sandstone around here would just turn to dust with any amount of grinding
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Jul 14, 2018 00:53
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Anyone ever use one of these? Curious how clean the holes it makes are.
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Jul 14, 2018 06:53
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Use a big ish one from Snappy at work to predrill White oak for screws. Works awesome. Little fuzz at the top edge of the counterbore, otherwise really clean. E: I'd maybe be a little cautious in some of the chippier softwoods like Doug fir, bit I haven't actually tried that myself. Hypnolobster fucked around with this message at 09:08 on Jul 14, 2018 |
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Jul 14, 2018 09:05
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Javid posted:Anyone ever use one of these? Those tiny Allen wrench holes are terrible, they strip and slip really easily Broke off a few in extremely hard wood like ipe
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Jul 14, 2018 16:53
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Don’t cheap out on those self countersinking bits. The lovely ones I bought were awful.
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Jul 14, 2018 17:52
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Yeah, definitely get Snappy or one of the other higher end brands.
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Jul 14, 2018 18:02
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coathat posted:Don’t cheap out on those self countersinking bits. The lovely ones I bought were awful. Yeah I grabbed a DeWalt one for #8 screws and the shaft of it snapped off after using it to cut maybe 9-10 holes. This was just using a super lowpowered cordless drill into some soft pine too. Couldn't have used it in more forgiving circumstances.
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Jul 14, 2018 18:05
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Hypnolobster posted:Yeah, definitely get Snappy or one of the other higher end brands. That one's a snappy and the price is right. If I can replace that pilot bit with my 1/4 brad point it'll be perfect.
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Jul 15, 2018 05:19
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A milestone in my DC project which has taken such a very long time... Finally got a blower mounted ontop the cyclone. Now I can consider ducting. And took the grinder apart some more, and it wasn't just a double reduction, but three reductions, pretty nifty system:  And now it has castors, so it's mobile. Covering the stone in a plastic bag to protect it from grease and oil as I clean the frame: 
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Jul 15, 2018 07:20
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Only tangentially woodworking but if I wanted to put up some of that stamped diamond pattern aluminum in my garage on a wall of wood, is some kind of liquid nails adhesive sufficient? Or some other adhesive?
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Jul 15, 2018 21:11
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Are you ever going to look back and think it was a bad idea and want to take it off?
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Jul 15, 2018 21:22
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Nope it’s 4 feet high of lovely old plywood in my unfinished garage. I just figured I could make it look a bit cooler over by my workbench. If I ever change my mind, the whole loving plywood deal is coming down. Edit: I guess if I want to go adhesive route it needs to be something that can handle wood and metal, and sets fast enough that I don’t have to hold it in place for more than a minute or so? Feenix fucked around with this message at 21:45 on Jul 15, 2018 |
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Jul 15, 2018 21:36
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I would still just use a handful of sheet metal screws. It'll add to the industrial look, be a lot easier to do, and a lot easier to undo. If you get one up a bit crooked you can pull out the screws and try again, but with glue you get one shot and that's it.
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Jul 15, 2018 21:46
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Leperflesh posted:I would still just use a handful of sheet metal screws. It'll add to the industrial look, be a lot easier to do, and a lot easier to undo. If you get one up a bit crooked you can pull out the screws and try again, but with glue you get one shot and that's it. Yea this is where I was going
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Jul 15, 2018 21:58
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Harry Potter on Ice posted:Yea this is where I was going Fair enough. My concern was merely that some of the plywood (most of it?) isn’t flush with wooden wall (just contact points at studs) and I’m not totally sure where the studs are (because the plywood is blocking) but I guess if sheet metal screws work and this aluminum siding is light enough, then the plywood should be enough “hold”. Yeah?
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Jul 15, 2018 22:05
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Unless it's rotten, yes. I have a piece of plywood strung between 2 studs that's holding my dust collector which must weigh at least 75 pounds. Why not put some peg board up instead and make the space useful?
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Jul 15, 2018 22:32
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