|
I found this one online for free, I don't know if anything is missing though because I don't have a physical copy to compare it to https://workshop-manuals.com/ford/crown_victoria/v8-4.6l_sohc_vin_w/a_l_l__diagnostic_trouble_codes_(_dtc_)/codes_by_number/p0000-p00zz/p0010_p0014_(_p0011_p0012_p0013_0010_0011_0012_0013_0014_)/system_information/system_diagnosis/p0010/
|
#
?
Apr 20, 2018 01:45
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 12, 2024 00:05 |
|
|
So I've had the Country Squire in my new garage for the last couple of weeks, it avoided a hail storm we had in the area, so I'm grateful for that. Since it's been nice out, I decided to take the car out for a drive and get things working again. The place I just bought is being renovated, so every weekend the car is pretty much trapped in the garage from the contractors. I backed the car out to find quite a bit of oil accumulating in the garage. I'm wondering if one of the the drain plugs is leaking or if it's the pan itself. I'm also planning out an attack on my coolant hoses, because it seems a few of them are seeping coolant when the car gets hot and it's making a hell of a stink in the car when I stop at lights. I had the heater core pressure tested, and it has passed, and the smell dissipates when the car is moving, so I suspect it's something in the bay itself. The hoses and metal fittings are all original to the car, so I bet they're just drying out. The upper radiator hose comes right up to the top of the block, so I'm going to try to replace that one first. I did it on the 87 wagon, so it shouldn't be too hard to do again now that I am not in a rush. The real mystery comes from this. I noticed the AC was cutting out more than usual when I was stopped at lights in the Squire, and I've noticed the 87s runs perfectly. The squire has been through several bad compressors, and I was hoping this one was finally the fix. It gets cold when the car's moving, so I don't believe this one is actually leaking freon. I suspected it was a vacuum issue, so I started rooting around and found this:  It looks like the hose going from the air pump to the system wasn't connected this entire time!  It's pulling vacuum when the car is running, and it goes directly to the air pump, so I'm wondering if the car's system isn't getting enough vacuum pressure when the car is at idle. The cruise control still works and the car seems to idle okay, so it's strange this open in the system isn't causing more issues.I looked around to see if I could locate where the other end of the hose is, and it looks like it's meeting up at the T-fitting like it is supposed to, so somewhere in the middle of the system there's a disconnect. I opened up the hood of the 87 and I can see that it runs under the manifold to a fitting which I guess is a check valve (center of image):  I'm wondering if that a check valve of some sort is closing the rest of the system off when there is no air pump vacuum, which is why the rest of the car seems unfazed by this. Here's a diagram of what I'm looking at, with pink being the disconnect:  I tried pulling the hose up from the t-fitting side, but it's caught on something. I'm wondering if they disconnected it during the AC replacement and just forgot about it since it fell behind the manifold. I'm gonna dig into it this weekend, but I can't believe this pump is pulling vacuum for the system and yet isn't causing any major issues. I know people delete the smog pumps from 302s, but this is mystifying me. I bought the '89 Electrical / Vacuum diagnostics book for the Squire, but it pretty much just has that above diagram. This system is still kind of a mystery to me 
|
|
#
?
May 1, 2018 19:18
|
|
|
Well, I found my first real "Oh, poo poo" issue with my new car... I don't know how I didn't notice it before. Went to check the oil on a whim, and discovered the oil dipstick sticks out about 5 inches from its tube. Won't push in further (hard stop) and there's not a trace of oil on the stick. Were there different designs from time to time? I'm hoping that its just the wrong dipstick and not something else. The part number on the dipstick is 3W7E-6750-ED, and RockAuto lists 3W7Z6750EA as the correct part. My car's a 2004, and the dipstick it has is 21" long (just the metal part), and has a 45 degree twist right at the end. Can anyone else compare this to theirs? I'll order a replacement from rockauto in the meantime, and I'm hoping that fixes it.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2018 02:14
|
|
|
boxen posted:My car's a 2004, and the dipstick it has is 21" long (just the metal part), and has a 45 degree twist right at the end. Can anyone else compare this to theirs? I'll order a replacement from rockauto in the meantime, and I'm hoping that fixes it. I’ll try to remember to measure mine (heh) when I get home tonight.
|
|
#
?
May 3, 2018 14:36
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:I’ll try to remember to measure mine (heh) when I get home tonight. Just measured the dipstick on my 2005. You're dead on @ 21":   edit: I do have to give it a little twist and wiggle part way down to get it in (what part of that sentence *can't * be made innuendo...) Darchangel posted:
According to the 2005 wiring diagrams, there's connector C443 at the "Fuel Tank Unit" comprised of the ful level sender and fuel pump. Pin5, yellow/white. C433 is at "Vehicle underbody rear", which appears to be above the fuel tank from the locator diagram. From there it goes to C213 in the driver's kick panel, then C2220a, which is the instrument cluster. Looks like C213 is your best bet, and fairly easy to get to. Literally right by your feet, behind the plastic panel where the hood release is. C213 is towards the bottom (there are several connectors in there). 18 pins. pin 10, still a yellow/white wire. Connect a pot there, with the other leg connected to ground, and you should be able to test the gauge. Darchangel fucked around with this message at 04:03 on May 4, 2018 |
|
#
?
May 4, 2018 03:57
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:I do have to give it a little twist and wiggle part way down to get it in (what part of that sentence *can't * be made innuendo...) Got the new dipstick in, it's exactly the same as the old one and won't go in. It's not like i'm hitting some resistance, it's like it hits a hard stop. I tried flipping it over a few times, no luck. Might have to put it up on jackstands this weekend to see if there's a kink in the tube or something.
|
|
#
?
May 4, 2018 17:45
|
|
|
Forensic Files is "B-roll of Crown Vics: The Show."
|
|
#
?
May 12, 2018 20:08
|
|
|
Crawled under the Lincoln last weekend, didn't notice anything strange anywhere that I could see. I was able to get the dipstick fully inserted by putting my had around the dipstick to prevent it from bending and just shoving it in (  ), and that seemed to work fine, no weird noises afterward and the oil looks to be both at the correct level and clean. The dipstick tube had a sticker still on it near where it entered the block, so maybe it was replaced at some point? Crawling under it was kind of neat, low miles so everything looked more or less new, rather than the banged up and rusted poo poo I'm used to. Do the 2004 cars not have a steering wheel lock when the key isn't inserted? I was able to freely spin the wheel without the key in the ignition, this would be the only car I've ever driven where the steering wheel lock wasn't a thing. There's also some sort of clunk coming from the front suspension when I'm backing up and brake, and only during the initial press of the pedal unless I build speed a little and hit it again (at like 1mph, I'm not doing J-turns) (yet). Nothing in the wheel bearings, tie rods, control arms, or brakes looked loose, but I didn't take anything apart to check thoroughly. Is that a normal thing? I think it might just be the pads moving in the calipers a bit, but I'm not sure.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2018 01:00
|
|
|
boxen posted:Crawled under the Lincoln last weekend, didn't notice anything strange anywhere that I could see. I was able to get the dipstick fully inserted by putting my had around the dipstick to prevent it from bending and just shoving it in ( I’m betting that’s the caliper shifting. Could be something else, but it fits. Mine does something like that from time to time, but I haven’t looked at it too closely. It should have a steering lock. My 2005 P71 does, and if anything didn’t have that sort of feature, I’d expect it to be a cop car. For example, the P71s don’t have coded keys.
|
|
#
?
May 17, 2018 21:19
|
|
|
I just went out to grab a tire pressure gauge from the p71, and it fell from the glovebox into the passenger door pocket.  I'm tired of finding ammunition in this car. A prior LEO in my nursing class says that, most likely, this car sat on a range as a training/op vehicle. The reason it has the haphazard 1 inch wide reflective tape strips on the A, roofline, and C pillars is probably so they wouldn't accidentally shoot through or at the car during night range time. Makes sense, and also explains why I've found ammo everywhere.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2018 07:44
|
|
|
Automotive Insanity › Panther Megathread - I'm tired of finding ammunition in this car
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2018 07:50
|
|
|
Nice, I wish my car came with free ammo.
|
|
#
?
May 18, 2018 08:26
|
|
Bad Angus! Bad!
|
I've been gone for a bit but I'm back and I've joined the Panther club. I was searching for a 2011 low mileage Lincoln Towncar L, and it took a while but I managed to track down a one owner garage kept sample with 20k miles on the clock. Problem was it was being sold by Carmax in Florida [I'm in California]. It was impossible for me to buy the car. Carmax policy was I had to contact a local California branch of Carmax and run the transfer through them. Except they weren't on it, and the car kept getting pushed into a hold because people were booking test drives which put the car into a no-buy hold for 72 hours. Between the local dealer, the one in Florida and the head office I couldn't really get any help on the status of the car. I offered to fly out that night to buy the car cash in hand and then drive it back. Except people couldn't find it in the system or it was on hold for a test drive.  So I found another one upstate in Central CA, same options but with 57,000 miles. A few minor scratches but it was about $7,000 cheaper than the Carmax option. So I wound up buying it.  Full-service history at a local Ford/Lincoln dealership mostly stored indoors and owned by a non-smoking nut farmer in central California. Everything worked and had the coils recently replaced and new Michellins put on 3 months before I got it. The previous owner also threw in an extra full-size spare in addition to the factory steel donut. After a few months of driving, no issues, other than the rear passenger door won't open internally regardless of the child switch setting on the door jamb so I have to figure that one out. The Changing of the guard.. my old continental vs the new Lincoln L  One of my friends purchased my 1998 from me pretty quickly, he knew I kept it maintained and had new tires/breaks on it. Only to have it totaled out one week into ownership because of a DUI hit and run  It was hit @ 45mph by a Ford F-150, who took off after the crash, only to get caught by the sheriff 2 miles down the road, at which point the driver tried to bribe the officer into letting him go, which added a ton of charges to the hit and run. RIP old continental.. it did hold up very well to the truck impact. It's going to Burning man car heaven as an art car down the road since we can chop the front half off and use that for something. After all that, and 3 weeks into driving the town car, Carmax Florida did finally call me back and asked me if i was still interested in their car since it was still available for sale.
|
|
#
?
May 21, 2018 06:29
|
|
|
Any good shortcuts for doing heater cores? The 70 degree dewpoint weather lately is making it a pain in the rear end to drive around without mine, either I run a/c and fog up the outside, or I leave it off, sweat and steam up the inside.
|
|
#
?
May 22, 2018 10:12
|
|
|
I just discovered that Forscan can talk to the Ford Fire Suppression System Module, which is great. I have a trouble light, the FSSM light, that comes on whenever I start the car and it's less than 80 degrees ambient. It's code B1342  . It will also light whenever I use Forscan to force the FSSM to go through a self-DTC check.
|
|
#
?
May 27, 2018 21:27
|
|
|
Well, crud. My wife came back in after leaving for work saying that the Crown Vic isn't shifting. She gets up to about 30 and the engine just races. I take it out for a test drive, and sure enough, it goes 1-3, then the engine just revs when it tries to engage overdrive. No codes or CEL (well, there was, but that was for the fuel pressure sensor which occasionally throws out a high signal. There was nothing related to transmission.) I'm about to go research it, but is this a common issue? Some solenoid or another not working right? It's clearly releasing the other gears and not engaging 4th. Fluid level and color is fine, no bad odor. If this requires pulling the transmission, I'ma let someone else do that. I'm tired dragging crap out from underneath cars on jack stands.
|
|
#
?
Jul 11, 2018 14:52
|
|
|
Answering my own question, it looks like this is the problem: https://www.crownvic.net/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Main=206226&Number=2896798#Post2896798 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XpX6pec_F2k https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0FvGRnUe7_E The pan gasket should be reusable, and I'd guess that the valve body gasket is, too, if it's not fsck'd up when removed, so should just be out the snap ring, filter (because why not - you're in there), and fluid (which is apparently the most expensive part.)
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2018 23:35
|
|
|
I pulled my pan to install a pan with a drain plug, and to change the fluid after picking it up from auction, but the gasket (while allegedly reusable) was definitely not cut out for reuse. Bought another one. Keep in mind it may be damaged from overtorquing.
|
|
#
?
Jul 12, 2018 23:47
|
|
|
If they exist for that transmission, I highly recommend a Lubelocker.
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2018 04:52
|
|
|
I’m halfway thinking about buying one of these things. Other than getting the Lincoln or Mercury variant, is there any way to not look like a wannabe cop in the Ford model?
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2018 13:57
|
|
|
If you don't want to look like a cop while driving a Crown Vic, not having one in common cop colors is a good start. Don't have push bumpers, antennas, or any kind of aftermarket lighting. If you're the kind of person to do unusual paint colors, big decals, bumper stickers, etc. that would also help, as would a loud exhaust, but that sort of stuff isn't for everybody.
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2018 15:32
|
|
|
Mine says “not a cop “ on the license frame. Insufficient? Most filter kits come with a new gasket, but probably not as good as OEM. OEM one looks like it’s about $20. I’m considering the drain plug pan from Dorman, but realistically, I don’t plan on being in there that often. Still, it’s only like $30. Or I can just install one of the add-a-plug kits.
|
|
#
?
Jul 13, 2018 15:50
|
|
|
I always wanted to get a pushbar for mine and paint it and the tail panels lime green or something. I've also seen one that kept tje lines of TXDPS livery, but with dark blue where the black was and the white replaced by lime green. It was so hideous it looped back around to badass. Edit: hang fuzzy bondage handcuffs from the rearview.
|
|
#
?
Jul 15, 2018 22:26
|
|
|
As posted in the "what did you do to your ride" thread, the snap ring and snap ring parts extraction appears to be a success. I hate that snap ring and every engineer, bean counter, and salesperson associated with it, though. The write-ups and videos I watched (only a few, really) failed to mention the 8 check balls and another loose thing that live in the valve body. Thankfully, I turned it over in a drip pan, so nothing was lost, and I own a copy of the factory service manual that helpfully points out where they all go. I guess I did it right. There were no parts left over, it shifted fine all the way to 4th (confirmed by reading the proper DTC,) and didn't make any untoward noises that it didn't already make. AFTER I added NINE QUARTS of $7/qt. Mercon V... Thirsty bitch.
|
|
#
?
Jul 16, 2018 23:13
|
|
|
Anyone have experience changing out the AC compressor on a Panther body? I've got a 2001 Marquis with the original compressor that I suspect has died. AC is the one part of a car I've always been hesitant to work on. How hard is it?
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2018 16:09
|
|
|
First off, get ye to the A/C thread for fundamentals of how to work on these systems. For Panthers specifically, replacing the compressor itself is kinda annoying due to being on the bottom, but not too involved, provided you  properly recover the refrigerant first. Make sure you also pick up a new accumulator since your system will be open to atmosphere. The latter is held on by quick-connect fittings which are kind of annoying to undo. Pick up a set of quick-connect tools from whatever parts store, you'll need em; technically you can finagle things with a couple screwdrivers, but the proper tool is like $10 for a set and far faster to use.The bigger issue is, why did the compressor die? If something seized up in the pulley/shaft end, fine, but if the actual compressor section took a dump you'll have bigger problems, as that tends to send fine metal shavings ("black death") through the system, which will very quickly destroy your new one. Check the compressor discharge tube and the old accumulator lines to see if there's any nasty stuff inside. If there is, you'll need to replace the condenser (as there's no good way to flush modern multi-path parallel flow ones) and thoroughly flush all the lines, and hope nothing got past the screen on the orifice tube (which you'd also want to replace in this case just to be safe. No matter what, you'll want to pour all the oil out of the old parts into some sort of measuring device, then thoroughly clean it. Then, pour any new oil out of the new parts into the same cup, and add additional fresh oil to make up the difference before adding it back in. Any o-rings on lines you disconnect should be replaced, and lubricated with oil before re-assembling. After that it's vacuum and recharge time.
|
|
#
?
Jul 17, 2018 16:55
|
|
|
Hi thread, I'm seriously considering buying a CVPI as my next vehicle. The car I'm looking at is a 2009 with 140k miles on it, is there anything I should be looking at closely?
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2018 16:49
|
|
|
Just check suspension bits for rust, and plan on replacing the coils (about $50 for all 8). Make sure the transmission fluid isn't burnt, and check the thermostat (up top, driver's side front of engine) for leaking. Many police departments put the aftermarket dorman intake on there, which is actually better than the stock intake. If its still stock, it may/will leak before 200k, and it's about $150-250 depending on the day. Easy replacement, just spendy. Overall, worst case $300 in parts, most likely $50.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2018 16:59
|
|
|
I thought the Dorman intake is only really an improvement for the earlier cars that still had the plastic coolant crossover? For switched to the aluminum crossover at some point. Earlier on the P71s than the civilian models, but I think they all got that eventually. An additional thing to look at: make sure that all the poo poo works. Service outfitters are famous for butchering the wiring, even with the OEM pigtails specifically for them to tie into. Just make sure all your exterior lights and such work. If the dome light doesn't work, there's programming (or a jumper on earlier cars) for disabling/enabling that, and there's a plug to disable the rear power door lock switches as well. Good news is that P71s are heavy duty everything, generally speaking, and pretty much sledgehammer simple. The cop models didn't even have to deal with Passlock, VATS, or whatever Ford called their electronic coded keys.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2018 18:10
|
|
|
Keep in mind because of that, you most likely cannot add an OEM keyless entry without replacing the entire driver's door control module AND reprogramming the ECM. An aftermarket unit is easier IMO. 2008+ P71s were not offered with keypad functionality (indicating keyless entry functionality) stock unless special ordered. IIRC ford switched to a partial aluminum intake with a redesigned thermostat housing in 2001 for the 4.6, but some of them still failed at points. Mine had the Dorman one installed by the fleet service (AZ DPS), so I was assuming some places did it as a matter of course. Mine is a 2008. From 2008 onwards the dome light control is a programming thing you have to do at a Ford dealer. It's called "dark car" mode. 2007 and prior it's a jumper behind the glovebox, with a blue pigtail. http://www.agcoauto.com/content/news/p2_articleid/185 Queen_Combat fucked around with this message at 18:30 on Jul 19, 2018 |
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2018 18:27
|
|
|
The car recently passed a Maryland inspection which is pretty rigorous. Apparently the only non-functional item they found was the horn, which I've heard is a fairly common issue with these cars, and the brake pads are getting a little thin. I haven't actually seen the car in person, a friend sent me pictures and the information. 
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2018 18:58
|
|
|
Darchangel posted:I thought the Dorman intake is only really an improvement for the earlier cars that still had the plastic coolant crossover? For switched to the aluminum crossover at some point. Earlier on the P71s than the civilian models, but I think they all got that eventually. I have an 03 Grand Marquis and it had a hosed intake manifold. Putting the dorman on was a breeze, but took a while only because I didn't know what I was doing. This is the first intake manifold I've ever installed, which doesn't bode well for my project car. I read somewhere that I would lose a bit of horsepower at the top end with the dorman intake but really, when you're piloting a 70 mile an hour sofa, you really won't notice. I sure haven't since I installed it. To check to see if the intake manifold is going or gone, after a test drive where you get the engine up to temperature, you can smell for burnt antifreeze (I'm sure it's healthy, I got brain cells to spare) and to get down on the ground and see if any is leaking out around the bellhousing- don't panic, the engine isn't puking from somewhere impossible to save it, there's a drain hole in the back of the engine valley to let water and in this case coolant drain out so it doesn't puddle between the cylinder banks. Actually I don't think I ever posted the pictures of my ruined intake manifold gaskets in this thread:   e:clarifying something As Nero Danced fucked around with this message at 13:01 on Jul 20, 2018 |
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2018 12:58
|
|
|
Ah, I see. There's still plastic in the water path on that design. I want to say mine is aluminum all the way to the head, but I can't verify that at the moment. It hasn't been an issue so far, thankfully. That bloody damned OD servo snap ring, though. That pissed me right off. I hate dealing with messy fluids everywhere (she said...)
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2018 23:32
|
|
|
My 98 Grand Marquis' speedometer quit working. I've replaced the Vehicle Speed Sensor at the back of the transmission, still doesn't work. Anyone have any insights or ideas?
|
|
#
?
Aug 3, 2018 19:31
|
|
|
The driver's front door lock actuator seems to have stopped working on the LTD Country Squire. I suspect it's just worn out. For a while I was able to manually help it along and it would start working, but now it's just kaput. To make matters worse, it seems to be gummed up a little bit, so you can't lock the door from the inside either. I've pulled the door apart and gotten to where I can see the actuator, but it's held on to the door with a pop rivet.   I have not had experience with these, but someone on a youtube comment said they were able to use the old door lock's plastic mount.  This is in stock so I'm going to take a chance on it. Looks like the mount is the same, so if I can swap them without getting into the riveting world of rivets, that'll be a lifesaver. I also need to figure out what I'm going to do about replacing the vapor barrier I tore apart to get to this. Edit: You know... that plug on the bottom looks loose, doesn't it? Edit 2: it was not... I am a fool Luxrage fucked around with this message at 22:30 on Aug 15, 2018 |
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2018 22:06
|
|
|
SimonCat posted:My 98 Grand Marquis' speedometer quit working. I've replaced the Vehicle Speed Sensor at the back of the transmission, still doesn't work. Anyone have any insights or ideas? More then likely bad solder joints in the cluster. Very easy to take out, remove the horizonal trim panels on both sides of steering wheel starting at the edges. Then get a 7mm socket with extension and remove the bolts on each side and the 2 above the cluster itself. Then it should be 4 more 7mm holding the cluster in, to take out the PRND21 just pry it forward carefully and you can move it out of the way.
|
|
#
?
Aug 15, 2018 23:18
|
|
|
Update on today: I did find out that you can, in fact, remove the actuator without taking the rivet out. The plastic U bracket that mounts to the car is only attached to the actuator by two rubber grommets. You can just (with a lot of fighting) slide them right out! The other issue I had, was getting the actuator out with the rod still attached. I solved this by pretty much tearing into it as much as I could until I separated the rod and the actuator!   And now I've got this one in there!   (From what I can tell messing with the system, down is lock and up is unlock. That stationary bar is the inner door handle and pulling it moves the door mechanism to the up position) The biggest pain was pretty much that I had to install the actuator and THEN the rod, but luckily the dorman one is just a pin you lock into place so I was able to lock it all together with pliers inside the door. I need to get some arm protectors, though, that door was painful to smash my arms around the inside of! The next thing I have to do is investigate the rattling inside the door. I think some of the power window mechanism is rattling, or something isn't sitting quite right in the door. I know when I was recording a video to send to someone it was super loud, but one up/down cycle of the window and now it's not doing it anymore! I ripped up the moisture barrier during the troubleshooting and deciding to remove the whole thing. Problem is, I think they put this on a little too soon after painting because taking it off took off some of the paint! Work's making me do a full shift of overtime tomorrow, but this Friday I'll goof off the residue and throw some paint on top of it. I don't think I'm going to find a replacement moisture barrier, but I was seeing some people use strip-caulk and 12mil plastic to make replacement barriers, so I might go that route and then put the door back together. I'm so glad I finally have a garage to work on this stuff!   I've got two fairly big local shows coming up in September, so before then I'm gonna do a rundown on everything I need to fix/improve/check on this and make some more posts here. I've also got a thread to start here for another vehicle, now that some crazy stuff has finished up I can get back to working on the cars! Luxrage fucked around with this message at 05:42 on Aug 16, 2018 |
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2018 05:36
|
|
|
KennyLoggins posted:More then likely bad solder joints in the cluster. Very easy to take out, remove the horizonal trim panels on both sides of steering wheel starting at the edges. Then get a 7mm socket with extension and remove the bolts on each side and the 2 above the cluster itself. Then it should be 4 more 7mm holding the cluster in, to take out the PRND21 just pry it forward carefully and you can move it out of the way. Replaced the cluster yesterday, was a pretty easy swap, just had to dismantle most of the dash, knee guard, steering column cover, and radio. Tedious, but not hard.
|
|
#
?
Aug 16, 2018 14:10
|
|
|
Luxrage posted:I ripped up the moisture barrier during the troubleshooting and deciding to remove the whole thing. Problem is, I think they put this on a little too soon after painting because taking it off took off some of the paint! Work's making me do a full shift of overtime tomorrow, but this Friday I'll goof off the residue and throw some paint on top of it. I don't think I'm going to find a replacement moisture barrier, but I was seeing some people use strip-caulk and 12mil plastic to make replacement barriers, so I might go that route and then put the door back together. I'm so glad I finally have a garage to work on this stuff! I've just been using heavy plastic sheeting and tape and/or caulk similar to the butyl used to install windshields. Until I run out of it, the plastic used in the giant bags that come on a new mattress has been perfect.
|
|
#
?
Aug 17, 2018 22:43
|
|
|
|
| # ? May 12, 2024 00:05 |
|
|
Darchangel posted:I've just been using heavy plastic sheeting and tape and/or caulk similar to the butyl used to install windshields. Sounds like a plan, I managed to pick up some of this stuff:  The guy at the parts store I picked it up from said he used to borrow it from the Dodge dealer he used to work at for this kind of thing. I'll grab some thick plastic sheeting, or maybe a cheap shower curtain, and use that. One of my coworkers suggested the super thick packing tape you get for heavy duty stuff, but I don't want that stuff to bond to the paint just like this did. Since this was going to all be inside the door, hidden by the card, I picked up some similar color Rust-oleum. I scrubbed the adhesive off as much as I could and cleaned it with rubbing alcohol. Then went to town on it!   Close enough!  Right now it's all drying so I'll put the rest together tomorrow to give it some cure time. I also saw this at the store, and I'm kind of curious about it because my bumpers could use it:  
|
|
#
?
Aug 18, 2018 01:05
|
|