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Mentioning bass-- does the bass model sound good for bass? I don't have a bass. Yet.
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Jul 18, 2018 23:59
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The THR10X sounds great on the bass setting. Very neutral.
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Jul 19, 2018 00:01
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My new Tweed Deluxe has a hissy/pop that fades in after a while. Doesn't seem to be a common factor (i.e. happened on one channel and not the other a few days ago, now on the other). Any ideas? Also, I LOVE the way it sounds - I feel like a musician more than a guitarist with it (if that makes any sense at all) since it's so responsive. One downside however is that if I hit a low E the THOOOOOOOOOM reverberates around my neighbourhood (or it feels like it). If I use a TS then the low cut sorts that, but I'm looking for something more sweet sounding. Compressor? What kind? Some other thing?
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Jul 21, 2018 15:37
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I'm not an expert but my Peavey amp would start to get a little noisy as the tubes warmed up when they were going bad. If you bought it used, did you replace the tubes when you got it or do you know how old they are?
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Jul 23, 2018 06:09
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Thanks for the details. I have a Dark Terror a and a Peavey Studio Pro in the workshop, with a 4x12 and a single 12 open back available, and an ElevenRack in my office hooked up to some decent speakers. All great hardware, but I still don't play enough, and I'm trying to figure out something that will get me playing more. I like the ElevenRack, and it's a great tool for recording demos and the like, but I find I don't really sit down and play through it. I'm constantly cycling through the factory presets because I haven't sat down and dialed in 10 or so really decent user presets, and the factory presets aren't that great. I don't really have the few hours required to really sit down and dial poo poo in though, and these things apparently sound better? Definitely look more convenient. The Dark Terror is freaking great for high gain tones but I can't really use it in the house with 2 kids under 2, and the Studio Pro is similarly volume constrained.
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Jul 23, 2018 07:02
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There’s a bunch of user files out there for the 11rack to get some better presets. I find I use the M-2 amp model a lot for sort of high gain, and whatever else for clean picking. You are right - you can get lost in sculpting these sounds that you’ll never use for practice. I made about four or five presets I use, and just skip then rest. It’s even easier when you play bass. Set to Blue-Line bass and go.
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Jul 23, 2018 10:56
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Crosspostin' from the bass thread because I had my first opportunity to run my new amp at practice and it's all I can think about!  Has more of a baked in tone than my Sunn Sorado or Hitone 200. It's modded to fit kt88s but currently has GE 6550s. It's my first Ampeg and the rocker switches and EQ are so interactive and versatile! Extra headroom from the 6550s lets it run powerful and clean up to noon on the volume knob, but I'm even more blown away by the doomy tone it can achieve running straight into the amp, no pedals, just by pushing the volume and EQ. No reverb tank unfortunately but I've got a Holy Grail and it's going to be my main amp for bass so not too big a deal. Might grab an accutronix tank at some point and try to get the 'verb up and running.   Would anyone happen to know if I can use the 'ext amp' jacks to bypass the onboard preamp? Manual says it operates as both a preamp in and preamp out but I'm having a hard time understanding how that's possible. Also, there's a hole in the 810 the size of my thigh where the caster punched through. It still sounds good but I'm guessing it would have to sound better if I manage to seal it up. Snagged it for two hundred bucks delivered and I'm hoping to muster the courage to close it up somehow soon. Any knowledge y'all can drop on me on the subject is much appreciated! COOKIE DELIGHT fucked around with this message at 19:12 on Aug 12, 2018 |
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Aug 12, 2018 19:09
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COOKIE DELIGHT posted:
Yep, just plug a preamp in there and it works fine. My preferred bass setup for my V4 is actually a Sansamp into the preamp in, the preamp on the V4 is great but it leaves a lot of headroom in the power section unaccessible since it starts getting so fuzzy. That jack is weird and I'm not electronic-savvy enough to understand it, but one time I was running into an older mixing board and the board volume was directly controlling my stage volume as well. Started running it through a DI box after that. There's a way to build a weird external master volume/boost box you can plug in there too.
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Aug 12, 2018 19:28
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Awesome! I'm really glad that's the case, as I should be able to run my b7k as a preamp and get more clean headroom when necessary. The step up in versatility from the 68 sunn to this v4 is insane. Wish it wasn't so much heavier, but drat, what a groovy amp for 600 bucks.
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Aug 12, 2018 20:10
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Anyone have some advice for the following? I already tried contact MesaBoogie support but they aren't replying... I own a Mesa Boogie Dual Rectifier Multi-Watt with the included Footswitch. It's been unused for a year or so but a few days I plugged it in to discover that the footswitch is not functional anymore. It will flash all the LEDs once while I power on the amp (and when I shut it down) but doesn't work after that. The channel selector on the back is set on FTSWTCH and when I plug in the 7pin cable I think I hear the relays clicking as well. I've used contact spray on the cable connector pins to clean them but that didn't do anything (they looked fine anyway). So today I bought a new cable but that didn't fix it either. Is the footswitch just plain dead or is it most likely the amp itself?
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Aug 20, 2018 17:58
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Hello fellow beleaguered Mesa/Boogie user! I had this problem with my Express 5:25 Plus, and it also was a pain in the rear end because it uses an 8-pin din cable and very few people carry those. I think it might be either the amp itself or the footswitch jack in the amp. I ended up buying a footswitch from a company called Ground Control pedals that works with the external switching jacks and I've never looked back. The funny thing, though? I've never had any problem with the Mark IV or the Recto-Verb heads. It was only with that one combo.
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Aug 20, 2018 18:21
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I guess I'll look around for an alternative as well... the official foot-switch is really expensive (135 euro) and I'm not willing to take a gamble on that in case it's the amp itself that has a problem!
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Aug 21, 2018 20:57
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I’ve been thinking about buying the EVH 5150 LBX II, accompanied by a yet to be chosen cab. I’m mostly a bedroom player and until now I’ve been using Bias to play through my headphones. The reasonable part of me is telling me to just buy a Yamaha THR10X but I need some tubes in my life. I guess what I’m looking for is to be talked down to something cheaper because while I can afford it, it would still be a lot of cash. Edit: I'll also add that I live in an apartment so lower-power options are preferred 
Fatal Error fucked around with this message at 22:44 on Aug 21, 2018 |
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Aug 21, 2018 21:46
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Get an Orange CR120 Head. It's solid state but the feel of your legs quivering will not miss the tubes. The YamahaTHR10x is the best goddamn bedroom amp you'll ever find.
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Aug 21, 2018 22:03
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Fatal Error posted:I’ve been thinking about buying the EVH 5150 LBX II, accompanied by a yet to be chosen cab. I’m mostly a bedroom player and until now I’ve been using Bias to play through my headphones. The reasonable part of me is telling me to just buy a Yamaha THR10X but I need some tubes in my life. I guess what I’m looking for is to be talked down to something cheaper because while I can afford it, it would still be a lot of cash. I have a 6505 MH for the same reason, specifically because it has a built in attenuator and built in DI, but I don't think it's quite worked out. I run it into an Orange 1x12 cab and even with the attenuator set right down to 1W I need to keep the power amp gain below 1 on the lead channel or it's too loud. So for a while I used the DI into my audio interface, but there's a cab sim on it that you can't turn off and I didn't really like the sound of it. Then my monitors died and I went back to the 1x12 anyway. The EVH seems like it has even less feature-wise so I think it's really tough ask over a THR10X. The only reason I haven't traded the 6505 MH in is because I can just about manage at home, and at a jam I gave it the full 20W through a 4x12 and it worked great. I doubt I would still have it otherwise.
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Aug 21, 2018 23:15
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Fatal Error posted:but I need some tubes in my life. quote:Edit: I'll also add that I live in an apartment so lower-power options are preferred don't bother. you'll have to keep the amp turned down low enough that it won't sound appreciably different from any decent solid state amp get a thr10 or whatever and call it a day
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Aug 21, 2018 23:44
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if you need tubes get a dsl1 i have the 50th anniversary addition which owns, and the new one is supposed to be just as good
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Aug 29, 2018 21:06
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Hey Amp thread I have a question: I'm a bedroom player, albeit an 'advanced' one I guess. My current setup is a bunch of (very high quality) solid state preamp pedals into a Neunaber Iconoclast (sort of like a torpedo cab but you can modify the "IR" with knobs on the fly, which I very much like) into a mixer into headphones or a power amp. I haven't owned a tube amp in years, but I'm thinking about picking up either a Friedman PT-20, DS-Mini, or EVH 5150 lbx for myself for Christmas -- partly because I want to make more of an effort to play with people, but also just to decide once and for all for myself whether tubes are worth the hassle. Question is: If I buy a nice tube amp, hook it up to a cab, and run the fx loop send into my power amp/speaker simulation setup, it should sound decent right? I'd basically be using the amp as a preamp, and the fx send should be exactly what the amp would output if it just didn't have a power section at all, right? Edit: I play with a reasonable amount of gain for death metal, but a pretty high amount by non-death-metal standards, so I'm not too concerned about power amp distortion, since that kills tightness (I think?).
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Nov 26, 2018 02:19
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The Muppets On PCP posted:don't bother. you'll have to keep the amp turned down low enough that it won't sound appreciably different from any decent solid state amp I still think tubes at low volumes sound better than most solid state amps depending on what you want out of them. Pure glassy sterile cleans will always be a SS choice. I run my OR15 at like .7 volume and it sounds great for everything. Getting a THR is always a perfect choice though yeah
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Nov 26, 2018 02:25
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Gnumonic posted:Hey Amp thread I have a question: I'm all in favor of tubes all the way through, but if you're only going to use the preamp, maybe try a tube distortion pedal?
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Nov 26, 2018 03:54
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Gnumonic posted:Hey Amp thread I have a question: I always forget how this works, but I think you'll still need a load attached to a tube power amp even if you take the fx send out to somewhere else. I have a 6505 MH that has a switch to shunt the output to an attenuator, but I found it hard to get the level right when taking the FX send into another amp. I only did that in the first place because even at 1W it's a bit loud for use in my flat, if I remember right the EVH LBX doesn't go down that low so I don't know how practical it is. Honestly it sounds like your use case is exactly what a TightMetal Pro is pitched at, I'm not sure you'd be settling anything if you get an all-tube amp but then bypass the power section anyway.
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Nov 26, 2018 14:36
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There's no shame in using solid state for death metal, it's a storied tradition.
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Nov 26, 2018 23:24
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My mark five 25 should be here Thursday or Friday and i'm super excited aaaaaaaaaa
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Nov 27, 2018 14:33
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Anime Reference posted:There's no shame in using solid state for death metal, it's a storied tradition. *slaps solid state amp* this thing can do death metal when you put a metal zone in front of it
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Nov 27, 2018 23:05
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This might be a dumb question or the wrong place, but as somebody who has no knowledge of electronics, where do I start with working on my own amps? I know it's extremely dangerous, but I'd like to be able to do it on my own (safely) eventually. Is this something one can do as a hobby or is it more a "go to school for it" type of thing? Where do I start? Are there starter kits or something that are safe that one can tinker around with? Sorry if this is vague. I'd love to be able to do maintenance/modifications on my amps safely but have absolutely no clue where to start on anything involving amps and DIY.
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Nov 28, 2018 21:58
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Kvlt! posted:This might be a dumb question or the wrong place, but as somebody who has no knowledge of electronics, where do I start with working on my own amps? Book-wise, Megantz is good if you have some electronics background and want to learn some of the workings of vacuum tubes. Merlin Blencowe has a good book also. http://www.triodeelectronics.com has some good kits, a 5w fender champ clone is super easy to do (only has one knob even). The worst thing I can think to say is that they pack poo poo like crazy people, it's all cut up flat rate boxes arranged around things so they can't move inside the final largest box
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Nov 28, 2018 22:13
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Mark V 25 got here today and I'm not sure I've EVER been so pleased with a gear purchase, holy poo poo
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Dec 1, 2018 02:32
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I'll do my standard recommendation of Dave Hunter's "Guitar Amp Handbook." The chapter where he follows the signal from input jack to speaker, explaining in plain language what each component does, is worth the price alone.
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Dec 1, 2018 07:00
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Gringostar posted:*slaps solid state amp* this thing can do death metal when you put an HM-2 in front of it Fixed
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Dec 2, 2018 00:50
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First time tube amp owner here and I have a quick question: I've had my Laney AOR Pro Tube Lead 100 for a few months now, played a few shows, but gets used most for band practice/writing/jamming in the apartment. Recently I've heard loud pops when I disengage the Standby switch AND whenever I turn off the power. I've also been experiencing severe volume fluctuations when playing at lower volumes. From looking online the pops may or may not just be high voltage (?), but I'm still worried about the changes in volume. Am I overreacting or should I take my baby to my amp guy?
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Dec 4, 2018 17:24
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You shouldn't have loud pops with the standby switch, it should just fade quickly on or off. I would take it to the amp doctor, little easy to fix problems like this now become big expensive problems later.
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Dec 4, 2018 17:26
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Volume changes at lower volumes make me wonder if one of the push/pull EQ knobs is flaking out. That'd potentially crank the volume by a lot if you had the master set low. I'm not an amp tech though, so maybe it's something else. I've had an AOR for years though, and it never did any of the described behavior. Curious to hear what the pops would be. I had some other Laneys in the shop to find a noise issue, and forgot to mention that those amps do pop like you describe. Tech never said anything about it.
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Dec 4, 2018 18:28
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I ignored all of your advice and ordered a DSL20HR to, uh, research this tube amp-as-a-preamp thing. (Also my power amp is kind of dying so worse case scenario I can use it as a power amp.) I actually already own a tightmetal pro and an AMT P2/SS-30 for real death-metal-ey death metal. I guess I should have clarified that I was mostly happy with those for real high gain tones, but I've been learning some neoclassical stuff and those preamps all suck a lot at low-medium (for metal) gain. A Friedman DS-OD with the gain maxed + internal gain pot at minimum (into the clean of the SS-30) sorta gets close to what I was looking for, but the mids on that thing are so massive that it gets flubby real easily. If I end up hating it I'll return it and get an ISP Theta or that Diezel preamp, satisfied that solid state really is superior.
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Dec 5, 2018 04:57
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Pokey Araya posted:You shouldn't have loud pops with the standby switch, it should just fade quickly on or off. I would take it to the amp doctor, little easy to fix problems like this now become big expensive problems later. Yikes thank you for the heads up! Will do. Gorgar posted:Volume changes at lower volumes make me wonder if one of the push/pull EQ knobs is flaking out. That'd potentially crank the volume by a lot if you had the master set low. I guess it is possible. When I'm just writing/jamming by myself I keep the master/secondary volumes pretty low so I wonder if that has to do with it? Of course could be tube related as well; I bought it second hand... but I also haven't had a problem in the past 9 months either... And good to know that's just a Laney feature and not a bug haha. Will report when it comes back from the shop.
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Dec 5, 2018 16:47
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Update: DSL20HR arrived today. Won't have a chance to really play with it until tomorrow, but despite the usually dogma of "TUBES ARE SO MUCH LOUDER THAN SOLID STATE!" this thing, in 10w mode, a fuckton more manageable volume wise than my EHX-44 magnum power amp. The EHX goes from "can't even hear it" at like .5 to "my neighbors are going to murder me!" at 1 so I'm definitely gonna keep this thing if only to use as a better power amp for apartment volume. It does the Marshall thing really well but I probably wanna switch out the preamp tubes with something that has less compression. Sounds a *little* more modern than I want it to on the gain channel. I haven't owned a tube amp in 10 years (and that was a Mesa so I was terrified of switching out tubes), so could someone help me out with a question: The amp has ECC83 tubes, which are the same as 12ax7 (I think). Are there any other types of tubes that can slot right into the amp? It is, I believe, cathode biased, so adjusting the bias is neither necessary nor possible. Any suggestions for a good tube to cut the compression a bit? Also, for future reference, what are the signs that a tube's dying? Not anticipating that happening any time soon but it'd be a good thing to know. Gnumonic fucked around with this message at 03:32 on Dec 9, 2018 |
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Dec 9, 2018 02:43
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Gnumonic posted:Update: You don't need to bias the preamp tubes. You can try different brands and different gain strengths (from highest gain to lowest gain): (tube) - (gain) - (equivalent names) 12AX7 - 100 - ECC83, 7025, ECC803, E83CC, 6681 12AT7 - 60 - ECC81, 6201, 6679 12AY7 - 45 - 6072 12AV7 - 40 - 5965 12AU7 - 20 - ECC82, 5963, 5814, 6189
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Dec 9, 2018 04:17
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Dang It Bhabhi! posted:You don't need to bias the preamp tubes. You can try different brands and different gain strengths (from highest gain to lowest gain): Thanks, that's very helpful. Can I mix and match tubes? Like say I get 3 12AT7s and it's just a hair lower gain than I like. Could I pull one and swap back in a single 12AX7? (Amp has 3 preamp tubes.) (Pretty sure the compression thing I'm talking about is a preamp thing, since I ran the fx send into my cabinet simulator and it was still a little too compressed.)
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Dec 9, 2018 04:54
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Gnumonic posted:Thanks, that's very helpful. Yes but know that how each tube cascades into the next isn’t the same and how you mix the gain and in which order matters. Google for your amp what other folks have tried imo.
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Dec 9, 2018 06:10
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One more dumb amp question: I'm setting my DSL up as a preamp (i.e. using the FX send) and it appears that the fx loop won't engage unless something is plugged into the return. Nothing bad's gonna happen if I just jam a 1/4 inch headphone adapter into the FX return right? Man my neighbors are going to shoot me if I accidentally step on the fx loop footswitch instead of the channel one... this thing works amazing as a preamp but only if the volume is dimed.
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Dec 10, 2018 03:48
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Your preamp should be running into the fx return of your regular amp.
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Dec 10, 2018 06:12
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