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CheddarGoblin
Jan 12, 2005
oh
When the weather gets cool enough I'm going to install a gable fan & shutter (like this) in my attic. What's going to be the best way to cut out the square opening I need? I'll need to cut through OSB and hardiplank type siding. Drill a hole first then sawzall? I'm going to need to do as much as possible from inside the attic since the spot on the outside is really scary to get to via ladder, being right over the AC condenser unit and a sloped ground.

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wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
One of these would work good.

https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.m18-cut-out-tool-tool-only.1001052941.html

Or one of these type dealies would probably do the trick as well:

https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.m18-18-volt-lithium-ion-cordless-oscillating-multi-tool-tool-only.1000736179.html

eddiewalker
Apr 28, 2004

Arrrr ye landlubber
Did I do this right? Wired into a 60a tandem on the other end. Just want welder power and a few extra 20a outlets in my garage on the opposite end of the house from my main panel without burning down my house.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe
One of my bosses has a question.

He recently had a room redone (it was actually an outdoor space covered over and converted to an interior room) and is using it as his home theater.

He has a projector on one side and screen on the other. He needs to run an HDMI cable all the way across the room inconspicuously.

He is also having new flooring installed and is toying with the idea of cutting out a groove from the floor padding and running a flat HDMI cable through it. But we measured and the cable is almost the exact same thickness as the pad. I think this is a bad idea because the floor is likely to start getting pushed up or uneven at the cable location as time goes on. Since it's harder than the pad.

The only other options are trying to run it behind the crown molding which would take some effort. Or just over the ceiling with nice ceiling cable covers making it inconspicuous. But his wife doesn't want that.

Anybody ever run some cabling under the floor before? We also recommended just scoring the concrete slab and maybe running some conduit/cable in that like a floor power outlet.

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
I'd go with the crown moulding if possible. It's not structural and if the moulding is of any significant size, then there should be plenty of room to route out a space for a cable to go in. You just need someone with a router with a straight bit.

The main thing I'd be worried about with putting it in the floor is that the floor would crack where the cable goes. At that point you're basically stuck putting something down along the cable run, so it'd be "visible" anyway.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

I'd go with the crown moulding if possible. It's not structural and if the moulding is of any significant size, then there should be plenty of room to route out a space for a cable to go in. You just need someone with a router with a straight bit.

The main thing I'd be worried about with putting it in the floor is that the floor would crack where the cable goes. At that point you're basically stuck putting something down along the cable run, so it'd be "visible" anyway.

There should be space behind the molding. So he can essentially go into the wall behind the projector, up to the molding (that hole is hidden by the molding) and then all the way around to the screen side and back into the wall and down and out where the blu ray player is.

edit: Downside is, essentially, having to remove the molding to route the wire

HycoCam
Jul 14, 2016

You should have backed Transverse!
I've used these in the past to do long HDMI cable runs in odd spaces: Tripp Lite HDMI over Dual Cat5/Cat6 Extender Wall Plate Kit with Transmitter and Receiver


or the non-fancy/non-outlet version: Riipoo HDMI to RJ45 Network Extender Converter Adapter, 30M HDMI to Dual RJ45 Network Cable Extender, Splitter, Repeater by Cat 5e Cat 6

n0tqu1tesane
May 7, 2003

She was rubbing her ass all over my hands. They don't just do that for everyone.
Grimey Drawer
Might want to consider wire length with HDMI too. You can run into problems over 50ft. There are active extenders, or you could use a Cat5 extender.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

Yeah we talked about that, but it's less about the cable type and more that he just needs a space to run it. Cat 6 and HDMI will be essentially interchangeable for these purposes.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

n0tqu1tesane posted:

Might want to consider wire length with HDMI too. You can run into problems over 50ft. There are active extenders, or you could use a Cat5 extender.

Yup we checked that. It's only about 35 feet the long way.

HycoCam
Jul 14, 2016

You should have backed Transverse!
Maybe try: FLAT HDMI Cable - 35 FT, High Speed HDMI Cable (10.6m) Flat Wire

But I'd think any cable you run directly under flooring is going to fail at some point. Are you on a slab? Cut a groove in the concrete? Otherwise down a wall cavity, tacked to the bottom of the floor joists in the crawl space and back up in a wall cavity across the room would be the most common of the trade methods.

Flash Gordon Ramsay
Sep 28, 2004

Grimey Drawer
I once routed a groove in the back of some baseboard to hide a speaker cable. Worked pretty well. Not sure if the HDMI cable would be too big for that.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

HycoCam posted:

Maybe try: FLAT HDMI Cable - 35 FT, High Speed HDMI Cable (10.6m) Flat Wire

But I'd think any cable you run directly under flooring is going to fail at some point. Are you on a slab? Cut a groove in the concrete? Otherwise down a wall cavity, tacked to the bottom of the floor joists in the crawl space and back up in a wall cavity across the room would be the most common of the trade methods.

Yeah he's already got the flat HDMI cable which is what gave him the "under the floorboard" idea. Which, even with flat cable, I don't recommend.

I mentioned cutting a groove in the concrete (I think I mentioned that in the OG post) but he is balking because I don't think he wants to do it himself or pay someone to do it.

It's a slab foundation and because it's a weirdly covered space that use to be an exterior, there is essentially no upper crawl space either (it's just a few inches and no real access to it).

A weirdly unique situation.

angryrobots
Mar 31, 2005

eddiewalker posted:

Did I do this right? Wired into a 60a tandem on the other end. Just want welder power and a few extra 20a outlets in my garage on the opposite end of the house from my main panel without burning down my house.



Looks good to me. I would have left a little slack in the bare ground, unless that was all you had. Either way, it's fine.

eddiewalker
Apr 28, 2004

Arrrr ye landlubber

angryrobots posted:

Looks good to me. I would have left a little slack in the bare ground, unless that was all you had. Either way, it's fine.

Well, its all i have left *now.* I'll fold some slack on the outgoing romex. If i need more slack on the ground in the future, I can move the whole ground bar since it's something I had to drill and tap to place.

I'm just super paranoid about making this look proper since I don't intend to get an inspection and don't want it to look fishy if I ever move.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

BonoMan posted:

Yeah he's already got the flat HDMI cable which is what gave him the "under the floorboard" idea. Which, even with flat cable, I don't recommend.

I mentioned cutting a groove in the concrete (I think I mentioned that in the OG post) but he is balking because I don't think he wants to do it himself or pay someone to do it.

It's a slab foundation and because it's a weirdly covered space that use to be an exterior, there is essentially no upper crawl space either (it's just a few inches and no real access to it).

A weirdly unique situation.

You can get shaped conduit to hide cable runs on top of the baseboard, it just makes it look like fancier baseboard, then run it around the room that way?

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

cakesmith handyman posted:

You can get shaped conduit to hide cable runs on top of the baseboard, it just makes it look like fancier baseboard, then run it around the room that way?

That's not a bad idea. Or this guy that just removes the baseboard and cuts out a groove in the drywall.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f_pwZAKlErs

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

BonoMan posted:

That's not a bad idea. Or this guy that just removes the baseboard and cuts out a groove in the drywall.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f_pwZAKlErs

That makes your house a little easier to burn down, so I'd prefer avoiding it if possible.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

BonoMan posted:

One of my bosses has a question.

He recently had a room redone (it was actually an outdoor space covered over and converted to an interior room) and is using it as his home theater.

He has a projector on one side and screen on the other. He needs to run an HDMI cable all the way across the room inconspicuously.

He is also having new flooring installed and is toying with the idea of cutting out a groove from the floor padding and running a flat HDMI cable through it. But we measured and the cable is almost the exact same thickness as the pad. I think this is a bad idea because the floor is likely to start getting pushed up or uneven at the cable location as time goes on. Since it's harder than the pad.

The only other options are trying to run it behind the crown molding which would take some effort. Or just over the ceiling with nice ceiling cable covers making it inconspicuous. But his wife doesn't want that.

Anybody ever run some cabling under the floor before? We also recommended just scoring the concrete slab and maybe running some conduit/cable in that like a floor power outlet.

Rent a concrete saw and cut a groove wide enough for 1" conduit. Cement over when done.

3D Megadoodoo
Nov 25, 2010

BonoMan posted:

it was actually an outdoor space covered over and converted to an interior room

Like, dude, all rooms are that. :2bong:

TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe

kid sinister posted:

Rent a concrete saw and cut a groove wide enough for 1" conduit. Cement over when done.

You can also just buy a concrete blade for a circular saw; they cost like $20. It'll take longer though.

...oh, for conduit, yeah, then going up to the full-on concrete saw might be warranted. I was imagining cutting a slot for the cable alone, in which case a circular saw could do the job.

Either way, cutting concrete kicks up a godawful lot of dust. Use a good breath mask and be prepared to do a lot of cleanup.

BigFactory
Sep 17, 2002

TooMuchAbstraction posted:

You can also just buy a concrete blade for a circular saw; they cost like $20. It'll take longer though.

...oh, for conduit, yeah, then going up to the full-on concrete saw might be warranted. I was imagining cutting a slot for the cable alone, in which case a circular saw could do the job.

Either way, cutting concrete kicks up a godawful lot of dust. Use a good breath mask and be prepared to do a lot of cleanup.

Any demo/walk behind saw you rent will have a hose connection to use it wet. Just have someone else close by with a shop vac to suck up the slurry.

Teabag Dome Scandal
Mar 19, 2002


I want to replace my dishwasher because it is garbage and I hate it. Everything about the process seems relatively straight forward since I don't believe the current one is hardwired in. Anything not obvious that'll make the process easier?

I'm kind of leaning towards buying one from Costco so I can get a 4 year warranty with my Costco CC because I keep reading about people having to replace their control board in the door and poo poo after a year or two. Is this legitimately a common issue I should be concerned with or is it just a case of people with good experiences not posting about them? I think I might even be able to extend the warranty to 7 years with their Squaretrade warranties.

WrenP-Complete
Jul 27, 2012

MrYenko posted:

Requesting video of the dog getting his vole murder boner on.

This is post vole murder, after I've "pew pew pew"ed her.


And here's a picture of the retaining wall and damage (not too bad, I don't think)

PremiumSupport
Aug 17, 2015

Teabag Dome Scandal posted:

I want to replace my dishwasher because it is garbage and I hate it. Everything about the process seems relatively straight forward since I don't believe the current one is hardwired in. Anything not obvious that'll make the process easier?

I'm kind of leaning towards buying one from Costco so I can get a 4 year warranty with my Costco CC because I keep reading about people having to replace their control board in the door and poo poo after a year or two. Is this legitimately a common issue I should be concerned with or is it just a case of people with good experiences not posting about them? I think I might even be able to extend the warranty to 7 years with their Squaretrade warranties.

I'd be more worried about the plumbing than the wiring. Even if it is hardwired just flip the breaker, check the wires to make sure they're not live, and loosen a few screws to disconnect it.

I've heard of issues with plumbing though where the old machine could not be pulled far enough out to disconnect the pipes. I think he ended up having to cut and repair the plumbing before installing the new one.

Teabag Dome Scandal
Mar 19, 2002


PremiumSupport posted:

I'd be more worried about the plumbing than the wiring. Even if it is hardwired just flip the breaker, check the wires to make sure they're not live, and loosen a few screws to disconnect it.

I've heard of issues with plumbing though where the old machine could not be pulled far enough out to disconnect the pipes. I think he ended up having to cut and repair the plumbing before installing the new one.

I know for certain I can get at the drain but now that you mention it I don't know that I can see where the water comes from.

glynnenstein
Feb 18, 2014


Teabag Dome Scandal posted:

I know for certain I can get at the drain but now that you mention it I don't know that I can see where the water comes from.

It wouldn't be the first time it happened, but it is pretty unusual to not be able to get at the supply line since they have to be able to hook it up while the dishwasher is pulled out during installation.

PremiumSupport
Aug 17, 2015
In the case I know of there were one or more kitchen remodels after the original washer was installed. One of them screwed up access to the supply line.

glynnenstein
Feb 18, 2014


PremiumSupport posted:

In the case I know of there were one or more kitchen remodels after the original washer was installed. One of them screwed up access to the supply line.

Yeah. I have to disassemble a shelf at work to disconnect a fitting on the copper line at work because they did the mill-work for that after the rest. It's annoying, but should be fairly uncommon since appliances are usually part of the rest of the kitchen redo.

BobbyDrake
Mar 13, 2005

This might be the right place... My refrigerator has apparently decided to not work correctly. At some point between dinner and putting the leftovers away, the light stopped working. When I woke up this morning, I checked and now it’s not all that cold on the inside. I can hear it running, but it’s warmer than it should be. I know it’s a Kenmore 253.68892015 top freezer model. Not much to go on, but if it’s a cheap quick fix I’m all for it.

Edit: wife sent me model number.

BobbyDrake fucked around with this message at 20:24 on Jul 20, 2018

GWBBQ
Jan 2, 2005


The Dave posted:

I was basically looking for a really lazy but clean looking approach for this:

My shed already has power (though the PO did that and it isn't up to code, hardly buried), and I'm stringing up some lights on a tree that is located basically right next to the shed. I wanted to cleanly put the extension cable back into the shed and mostly keep it unplugged, but occasionally will plug it in to turn the lights on.

I was going to just drill a hole in the back of the shed and use the PVC stuff to hide the wire since there's no opening for it. I guess the right approach would be to put a weatherproof outlet on the exterior of the shed.
You need to run a proper circuit. Put a pull box on the outside of the shed, run the conduit underground, come back up with the conduit, and attach an outdoor rated box to the tree (fixtures attached to trees pass inspection here, no guarantee they will where you are.)

Raised by Hamsters
Sep 16, 2007

and hopped up on bagels

eddiewalker posted:


I'm just super paranoid about making this look proper since I don't intend to get an inspection and don't want it to look fishy if I ever move.

So I'll confess I did exactly this on my first electrical project. On subsequent ones, I paid the minimum fee and got the permit.

What I found was that the town office was happy that I had coherent, legible plans. The inspector was happy that my work was clean and neat, and after I could answer a couple questions that indicated I actually did my homework and looked up how to do something properly, the rest of the inspection was almost cursory. He was actually happy to hang out for a few minutes and offer advice on totally unrelated projects, based on his extensive experience. And now I have a nice paper trail. It was all around a good thing. Inspections don't need to be feared.

Unless of course you live somewhere that doesn't let you do this at all in which case I'll be quiet.

BigFactory
Sep 17, 2002

Raised by Hamsters posted:

So I'll confess I did exactly this on my first electrical project. On subsequent ones, I paid the minimum fee and got the permit.

What I found was that the town office was happy that I had coherent, legible plans. The inspector was happy that my work was clean and neat, and after I could answer a couple questions that indicated I actually did my homework and looked up how to do something properly, the rest of the inspection was almost cursory. He was actually happy to hang out for a few minutes and offer advice on totally unrelated projects, based on his extensive experience. And now I have a nice paper trail. It was all around a good thing. Inspections don't need to be feared.

Unless of course you live somewhere that doesn't let you do this at all in which case I'll be quiet.

Some code enforcement guys are dinks. It all depends.

Raised by Hamsters
Sep 16, 2007

and hopped up on bagels

BigFactory posted:

Some code enforcement guys are dinks. It all depends.

Yes. And not saying this was eddiewalker's situation, but I guess my general point was to not assume they are a bag of dicks as a starting point.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

BobbyDrake posted:

This might be the right place... My refrigerator has apparently decided to not work correctly. At some point between dinner and putting the leftovers away, the light stopped working. When I woke up this morning, I checked and now it’s not all that cold on the inside. I can hear it running, but it’s warmer than it should be. I know it’s a Kenmore 253.68892015 top freezer model. Not much to go on, but if it’s a cheap quick fix I’m all for it.

Edit: wife sent me model number.

Is the fan spinning? It moves air over the coils so that they can lose heat faster. It's on the back side near the bottom. You will need to pull the fridge out and maybe an extension cord if the plug doesn't reach now. Unplug it, take off the bottom panel and plug it back in. Is the fan spinning? You could also get the vacuum and clean the coils with it unplugged.

kid sinister fucked around with this message at 16:17 on Jul 21, 2018

FogHelmut
Dec 18, 2003

Teabag Dome Scandal posted:

I want to replace my dishwasher because it is garbage and I hate it. Everything about the process seems relatively straight forward since I don't believe the current one is hardwired in. Anything not obvious that'll make the process easier?

I'm kind of leaning towards buying one from Costco so I can get a 4 year warranty with my Costco CC because I keep reading about people having to replace their control board in the door and poo poo after a year or two. Is this legitimately a common issue I should be concerned with or is it just a case of people with good experiences not posting about them? I think I might even be able to extend the warranty to 7 years with their Squaretrade warranties.

In the past 6 months, I replaced my top rack slide/adjuster (plastic one broke, upgraded to stainless steel), control board, and food chopper (completely blew out, found bits of broken glass and ceramic in there) , but my dishwasher is about 13 years old.

BobbyDrake
Mar 13, 2005

kid sinister posted:

Is the fan spinning? It moves air over the coils so that they can lose heat faster. It's on the back side near the bottom. You will need to pull the fridge out and maybe an extension cord if the plug doesn't reach now. Unplug it, take off the bottom panel and plug it back in. Is the fan spinning? You could also get the vacuum and clean the coils with it unplugged.

Yes, the fan is spinning, and I can hear it run. I replaced the light bulb and the light still isn’t working. The fridge is colder than my wife led me to believe, but not as cold as normal. I’ll move it and vacuum the coils, but I don’t think that would have any effect on the light. I hate this fridge anyways and can afford a better one so maybe I’ll just replace it.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

BobbyDrake posted:

Yes, the fan is spinning, and I can hear it run. I replaced the light bulb and the light still isn’t working. The fridge is colder than my wife led me to believe, but not as cold as normal. I’ll move it and vacuum the coils, but I don’t think that would have any effect on the light. I hate this fridge anyways and can afford a better one so maybe I’ll just replace it.

Did anyone touch the thermostat controls inside? A snot nosed kid perhaps?

That could just be that the little tab in the bottom of the socket is smushed down so far that it can't make contact with the new bulb. Unplug it, bend that tab up ever so slightly, put a new bulb in, plug it in and see if that works. Or the door switch is broken. Those are cheap and easy to replace.

I say fix it, move it to the garage and make it your beer fridge.

BobbyDrake
Mar 13, 2005

kid sinister posted:

Did anyone touch the thermostat controls inside? A snot nosed kid perhaps?

That could just be that the little tab in the bottom of the socket is smushed down so far that it can't make contact with the new bulb. Unplug it, bend that tab up ever so slightly, put a new bulb in, plug it in and see if that works. Or the door switch is broken. Those are cheap and easy to replace.

I say fix it, move it to the garage and make it your beer fridge.

I just pulled it away from the wall and vacuumed the coils, we’ll see if that helps. There aren’t any kids in the house and the thermostat was the first thing I checked. As for a beer fridge, I already have one in the basement. And again, this fridge sucks and I hate it. We’ll probably replace it anyways. Thanks for the help though!

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eddiewalker
Apr 28, 2004

Arrrr ye landlubber

Raised by Hamsters posted:

So I'll confess I did exactly this on my first electrical project. On subsequent ones, I paid the minimum fee and got the permit.

What I found was that the town office was happy that I had coherent, legible plans. The inspector was happy that my work was clean and neat, and after I could answer a couple questions that indicated I actually did my homework and looked up how to do something properly, the rest of the inspection was almost cursory. He was actually happy to hang out for a few minutes and offer advice on totally unrelated projects, based on his extensive experience. And now I have a nice paper trail. It was all around a good thing. Inspections don't need to be feared.

Unless of course you live somewhere that doesn't let you do this at all in which case I'll be quiet.

My limited interaction with the local enforcement has made me scared to involve him.

I posted pics in this thread about a year ago, but my house has two rooms with 8” drop down floors. After moving in I realized that the builders in the 70s had notched every 10” joist down to just 2” sitting on the cross beam to accomplish that drop.

I tried calling the city office to see if they had any ideas on fixing it right. Rather than offering advice, the guy jumped in threatening all the fines he’d imposed if I didn’t have an engineer do everything. I hung up before he could get my address.

I found an engineer in town who told me “this’ll be like $20k if I do it, but here’s where and how you should add beams if you do it yourself. Cover it in drywall and don’t tell the code dick. Apparently my who neighborhood was built this way and he was really familiar.

So, at least in this town, I’m not involving anyone I don’t have to. If a buyer’s inspection complains later, I’ll just pull the breaker out of the main panel and they can deal with 15amps in the garage.

eddiewalker fucked around with this message at 21:12 on Jul 21, 2018

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