|
He said it's the 'DragonLock newsletter freebie skeleton STL'. Some oldschool dungeons and dragons thing probably. I'm asking him for more details on what he did between printing and painting the minis.
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2018 19:12
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 12, 2024 12:22 |
|
|
Sagebrush posted:Note that the quality you get from a 3D printer is as dependent on the model as on the printer itself. Indeed, that skeleton is specifically designed for easy FDM printing. If you try to just print random character models off the internet, things get more difficult.
|
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2018 19:38
|
|
|
Is the latest slic3r build gone wonky for any one else? It seems to wait a half second before doing it's retraction, then retracting. Like it should go Perimeter Retract Z-hop Deretract Perimeter But what it is doing is Perimeter Wait and spoot out the backpressure Retract for no reason Z-hop Move Deretract Perimeter I really like slic3r but it is currently unusable for a Bowden system. I can't speak for direct drive. I was testing cubes from 0 to 9mm retraction and they were pretty much identical, with 9mm retraction being unprintable after a couple layers still with blobbing none the less Edit: 
Jestery fucked around with this message at 22:40 on Jul 18, 2018 |
|
#
?
Jul 18, 2018 22:22
|
|
|
biracial bear for uncut posted:I mean, "0.04" looks exactly like what "0.16" would look like if you had a steady hand, dremel tool with the right abrasive/polishing tips and paint. What kind of dremel tips are right for the job? Every time I use my rotary, it just eats up the print.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2018 00:08
|
|
|
First print off the new Prusa! Is this looking like it’s calibrated alright? I guess a benchy is next 
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2018 00:37
|
|
|
Revol posted:What kind of dremel tips are right for the job? Every time I use my rotary, it just eats up the print. diamond tip, flex shaft and a foot pedal.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2018 00:37
|
|
|
Seeing as I’m working on calibrating my machine for mini prints, I’ll see if I can get skeleton quality this weekend with the stock head/nozzle before I rewire everything for my dual 5015 v6 head. Cura settings will likely be .05 height, .15 initial layer, and decently high infill/low speed. Seeing as it’s a moderately stock Ender 3, that might answer some questions. Meanwhile, been getting parts printed. Seeing a tiny amount of lift on one side, but nothing that’s hurt my parts thus far, and it’s been fun watching as I print parts to let me print better parts. Already did my heavy-duty mounting head and a new cover to hold the TL smoothers/keep the fan safe, got a filament guide on the printer, and planning a wire holder to separate the bowden from the z-axis arm. I should probably print a Benchy at some point.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2018 01:34
|
|
|
Ravendas posted:He just said it's his first printer, that it wasn't hard to set up, then showed off this pic: I asked the guy more about this print. Here's what he says: quote:
So a basically unmodified $250 printer is making that print on the left with zero post processing. Huh.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2018 01:46
|
|
|
Got a .6mm nozzle installed on the MK3, man that was a pain in the rear end. Not doing that again! But man this thing can pump out the plastic. Waiting on the first successfully stuck print to finish up (see: pain in the rear end recalibrating) to check out the results.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2018 02:27
|
|
|
Ravendas posted:So a basically unmodified $250 printer is making that print on the left with zero post processing. Huh. If you don't have the painting skills of that guy, prepare to be disappointed 
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2018 02:33
|
|
|
And now it appears plastic is leaking around the nozzle, gently caress my life. 
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2018 02:54
|
|
|
Every time you install a new nozzle, you need to heat it up to a higher temperature than you expect to ever use in printing (my hottest filament prints at 260 so I use 290 for this procedure) and tighten everything down while it's hot. If you only screw it in when the nozzle is cold, the thermal expansion in operation will loosen everything up and cause it to leak. Tightening it at a higher temperature allows it to contract and seal everything off. Just get a pair of wrenches and oven mitts and go for it. Ideally go for the highest temperature your nozzle is capable of hitting. This is part of why I just swap out the entire hotend, btw.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2018 03:11
|
|
|
Yeah I went back to the .4mm nozzle and heated it up to ABS temps, which I don't go anywhere near. Hopefully it's fine now, will worry about it later. edit: cranked that fucker up to 285 degrees and tightened the .4 down, we'll see if it leaks. Parts Kit fucked around with this message at 04:22 on Jul 19, 2018 |
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2018 03:18
|
|
|
Parts Kit posted:And now it appears plastic is leaking around the nozzle, gently caress my life. Did you swap the nozzle while it was hot? e: nvmnd
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2018 03:35
|
|
|
Sagebrush posted:This is part of why I just swap out the entire hotend, btw.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2018 04:23
|
|
|
Parts Kit posted:While I'm thinking about it, how do you get the thermistor and heater out of the hotend? Have connectors for those items and have each hotend have their own.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2018 04:47
|
|
|
Parts Kit posted:While I'm thinking about it, how do you get the thermistor and heater out of the hotend? You don't. I use E3D hotends and I swap everything from the groovemount down -- the cold zone/heat sink, heater block, nozzle, cartridge, and thermistor. Fan stays where it is because you can just pop that off. I put a 4-pin connector on the heater and thermistor lines with about 4" of wire, and unplug it there when swapping the unit out. As long as all your hotends use the same model of thermistor, changing between them doesn't matter. It does take some initial setup, but if you're regularly swapping back and forth (I have 0.25mm/0.4mm/1mm volcano units, and also a 3mm 0.4 that I used for a while when converting between filament diameters) it's invaluable. I looked for a picture just now but couldn't find one.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2018 05:17
|
|
|
Parts Kit posted:Can't really comment on if it's worth the wait for the powdercoat sheet, but your plan of smooth first and get the powerdercoated later is what I went with. So far it's been fantastic with the smooth surface, a massive step up from the Monoprice Mini. EngineerJoe posted:I have the Mini and ordered the MK3 in April, it arrived 2 Fridays ago with the powder coated sheet... wait for the sheet, it's amazing and the lead time isn't that long any more. (7 weeks according to the website) Thanks for the replies. I'm not in a rush to get it anytime soon so I might just wait for the powder coated sheet.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2018 05:26
|
|
|
Update on my benchy with burn marks: Went to teardown my hotend cause I wanted to replace the nozzle and saw filament was leaking out of the top and the bottom:  Cleaned out the threads by heating the hotend and running a thread chaser through it. I then reassembled while taking care to leave no gap between the heatbreak and nozzle by threading the nozzle all the way in, then backing it out a whole turn. Next I threaded the heatbreak in until it was seated against the nozzle, then backed it out less than a turn to orient it correctly when mounted on the printer. Turned up the hotend to 250 degrees and tightened everything down while it was hot.   Thanks for the advice guys, I think this benchy is looking pretty good now!
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2018 08:55
|
|
|
Speaking of leaking nozzles, has any hotend mfgr tried using compression style fittings with a tapered cone to create the seal? Seems like that would make more sense than trying to seal bare threads.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2018 11:40
|
|
|
mewse posted:If you don't have the painting skills of that guy, prepare to be disappointed  Same with my 0.6mm nozzle and 0.08mm layer height. Smoothieware is a bit of a pain in that if Slic3r tries to change acceleration or cooling fan speed, it has to flush the whole planner queue and wait for it to be idle before accepting that line of GCode. Every time that happens there's a teeny pause where it leaks out some plastic. I tried forcing 100% fan speed and one acceleration but I still got a ton of blobbies. I didn't make a ton of progress going from the first one printed (left) to the last (right). Also, 28mm be small, yo. Even at the finest 0.6mm extrusion width I couldn't get small enough for it to print his gun barrel. Rodian Rebel Trooper by dutchmogul
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2018 12:34
|
|
|
peepsalot posted:Speaking of leaking nozzles, has any hotend mfgr tried using compression style fittings with a tapered cone to create the seal? Seems like that would make more sense than trying to seal bare threads. It's probably actually cheaper to have threaded nozzles manufactured than tapered fit nozzles for that kind of mechanism. That said, it's an interesting question. I don't know that you'd be that far away from a regular collet-style mounting system if you go to that point though, and you'd still have the same issue with having to assemble it hot and get it tightened down properly to prevent leaks (and you'd have to have proper tools for tightening as opposed to most people just using pliers or the odd "nozzle wrench"). Then you have the whole issue with heat-transmission/cooling to prevent massive heat-creep through the hotend.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2018 13:41
|
|
|
Printrbot has peaced out, can't say I blame them. Knowing when to pull the plug is tough.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2018 16:26
|
|
|
Mister Sinewave posted:Printrbot has peaced out, can't say I blame them. Knowing when to pull the plug is tough. I'm not surprised. They kept starting and leaving development projects half-finished and wasting a ton of money on development of poo poo they never sold. Or if they did sell, they sold it super cheap and then never followed through (Adopt-A-Bot campaign, for example).
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2018 18:04
|
|
|
Any suggestions on how to start designing stuff that will eventually be printed? I have some stuff that I feel should be designed, but I have no idea what tools, options, or basics are even out there for doing modeling. It’s like, I’m really getting the hang of troubleshooting and tuning my printer, set up some good basic habits, but just printing stuff other people have made seems like a limiting step.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2018 20:01
|
|
|
Hedningen posted:Any suggestions on how to start designing stuff that will eventually be printed? I have some stuff that I feel should be designed, but I have no idea what tools, options, or basics are even out there for doing modeling. It’s like, I’m really getting the hang of troubleshooting and tuning my printer, set up some good basic habits, but just printing stuff other people have made seems like a limiting step. I picked up enough cad to do rudimentary parts by watching Tom screw around with onshape (and some limited previous solidworks experience) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iFbd7F7HggA
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2018 20:09
|
|
|
OnShape is a good free tool if you have previous parametric modeling experience. Parametric modeling is best because if you have a rough idea of what you want the part to do (and what variables you’ll likely change) you can set it up so that you modify one number and the entire model will adjust itself. Like if you designed a shoebox model you can have the variable &shoe_size drive the dimensions of the box rather than tweaking height, width, and depth individually. Start with a problem you’re trying to solve and then think up lots of ways to solve it. More broadly, with product design you want to think
From there you start with the things you absolutely need for the part to do it’s job (bearing surfaces, connection points), then fill in the material that let those do their job (connecting material, supports) and keep doing that until the part works. This should be how you approach modeling too, so that the most important features are early in your design tree and they can drive the supplemental features, instead of vice versa. The other key to having good ideas is to first have a lot of ideas. Start with your problem and come up with ten ideas on how to solve it and write them down or sketch them. These will probably be pretty easy. Then think up twenty more - don’t worry if some are impractical or unworkable or garbage, you just want as many ideas as possible. Somewhere around the 50th idea you will start getting some really awesome solutions, and regardless you will have a broad population of ideas to sample the best pieces into a gray whole. If you want more specifics on modeling strategy specifically I can go into that too.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2018 20:35
|
|
|
Also check out Autodesk Fusion 360. It is available for free to all hobbyists, despite what their homepage may have you believe. There is also Tinkercad, which is "Babby's First CAD Program", but IMO you should just jump straight into Fusion 360 or Onshape.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2018 21:05
|
|
|
From what I understand most of the programs mentioned are for creating functional pieces right? I've seen Blender for 3D modeling and Sculptris for organic sculpting as free software recommendations.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2018 21:34
|
|
|
Fusion 360 has a sculpting environment. I've used it a bit, to copy a golf club head for a client. It was pretty easy to use, but haven't used blender or any of the other more freeform tools so I can't tell if it's good or not.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2018 22:10
|
|
|
Here a picture of my printer issues Slic3r (  ) and CURA Just odd that slic3r just stopped working, I've tried a fresh install of the latest slic3r Dev build and the problem is slightly better. But still blobby at
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2018 22:35
|
|
|
biracial bear for uncut posted:Have connectors for those items and have each hotend have their own. Sagebrush posted:You don't. I use E3D hotends and I swap everything from the groovemount down -- [etc.] But the plus side is it seems like everything is back to normal now that I've put the .4mm nozzle in and recalibrated. Only the slightest elephant foot on a calibration cube print.
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2018 23:01
|
|
|
Jestery posted:Here a picture of my printer issues
|
|
#
?
Jul 19, 2018 23:15
|
|
|
peepsalot posted:Have you tried Slic3r Prusa Edition? That was slic3r PE
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2018 02:30
|
|
|
FWIW I'm using Slic3r PE v1.40.0+win64 and my 2mm retraction works fine. I'm using direct drive though.
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2018 02:32
|
|
|
yergacheffe posted:FWIW I'm using Slic3r PE v1.40.0+win64 and my 2mm retraction works fine. I'm using direct drive though. Yeah that's the thing, it seems like it exports the commands in the wrong order, like the amount of retraction really makes no observable difference. I'm just going to get a working cura profile and then dick around with slic3r
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2018 02:35
|
|
|
All of a sudden PLA won't stick properly to either the Mk2 or Mk3 heated beds. The PLA is curling off of the bed wherever a line ends. I'm printing at the temperatures and settings I normally use with the same filament. I thought the Z adjust might have been wrong but if I move it closer to make it stay stuck it's obviously too close when it does infill and it gets those stuck up wavy lines that you get if you're over extruding or too close to the bed. I've cleaned the beds with Iso and it's not made that much of a difference. I seriously cannot work out what the gently caress is up with them. Could it be the weather? England is currently having a bit of a heatwave, I don't feel like it'd make much difference but you never know with these things. edit: image 
Luminaflare fucked around with this message at 14:14 on Jul 20, 2018 |
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2018 14:11
|
|
|
It could also just be lovely filament.
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2018 14:13
|
|
|
biracial bear for uncut posted:It could also just be lovely filament. I'd have thought that but we've easily gone through over 10Kg of this filament, not exactly without issues (white filament is so annoying) but definitely not these issues. Same issues off of different reels as well so I don't think it's the current filament.
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2018 14:19
|
|
|
|
| # ? Jun 12, 2024 12:22 |
|
|
Any chance the filament has absorbed some humidity or came to you "wet"?
|
|
#
?
Jul 20, 2018 17:12
|
|