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Tried out TAP Babe Blonde (recommended by a friend) and VGC Sun Yellow (likewise, different friend) today. TAP BB is an acceptable yellow but seems to have poor coverage and pigment density. It's almost more of a glaze fresh from the bottle. VGCSY is an orange hued yellow, useful for that and for lighting. Best yellow I've tried so far remains Tamiya XF-3 flat yellow. It's alcohol based but that's not a problem, and it is an absolute joy to use. Good coverage, good pigment density, and it's a relatively 'straight' yellow without too much skew towards the green or orange..
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Jul 20, 2018 17:43
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One more vote for Tamiya Yellows (especially with an airbrush!)
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Jul 20, 2018 17:55
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Max Wilco posted:I don't know if I just got a bad jar, or if Citadel paint is just like this, but once I had exhausted everything in the lid-scoop upon first opening the Death Guard Green, I couldn't get anymore out without sticking the brush directly into the pot. It's like the jar was already half-empty, even though it was sealed shut. Close the lid, shake it up, open it again. Hey, there's more paint in the lid scoop now! Def get a wet palette though, paint dries way too fast otherwise. Yeah, they're sold half empty, who cares. Its like potato chips. If you want more for less get vallejo paints.
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Jul 20, 2018 20:54
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Zaphod42 posted:Close the lid, shake it up, open it again. The start painting sets are sold more like 80% empty.
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Jul 20, 2018 21:14
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Zaphod42 posted:Close the lid, shake it up, open it again. I tried that, but it didn't work. I think it's because the paints too thick, so it doesn't really shift when shaken. I even tried leaving it upside down for it bit, but I think it just stopped on the rim of the jar. General Olloth posted:The start painting sets are sold more like 80% empty. I kind of had a feeling that was the case. I opened up the first jar and thought, "Man, the Warhammer TV videos made it look like there was a lot more paint in these things."
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Jul 20, 2018 21:34
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Max Wilco posted:I tried that, but it didn't work. I think it's because the paints too thick, so it doesn't really shift when shaken. I even tried leaving it upside down for it bit, but I think it just stopped on the rim of the jar. Hmmmm, sounds like old paint. Lame. You can try adding a little water or better yet medium to the pot and then shaking/stirring it , unless paint is ancient you can usually recover it.
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Jul 20, 2018 22:04
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I'm painting up some Black Consuls but can't decide whether to go with black or red bolters; does the black blend in too much?
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Jul 20, 2018 22:24
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Count_Brass posted:I'm painting up some Black Consuls but can't decide whether to go with black or red bolters; does the black blend in too much? I'd do the bolters in red but I like the contrast, depends on the look you're going for. The black looks fine with proper edge highlights like you've done.
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Jul 20, 2018 22:44
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Count_Brass posted:I'm painting up some Black Consuls but can't decide whether to go with black or red bolters; does the black blend in too much? Black definitely blends in too much. Maybe do white to match their emblem? Red would also look good. Looks like red and metal are the official scheme.
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Jul 20, 2018 23:00
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Is the red helmet for everybody or just the leadership?
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Jul 21, 2018 00:07
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I kitbashed together a Gunnery Sargent Harker:  Used bits from a total of six different kits.
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Jul 21, 2018 01:04
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Count_Brass posted:I'm painting up some Black Consuls but can't decide whether to go with black or red bolters; does the black blend in too much? You're going to lose the purity seals in red bolters, and it'll detract from the red helmet. Try painting the base rim in brown to reduce the overall black, and then attempt a woodgrain on the side pannels of the bolter. Wood will visually tie to your base, and looks baller without too much effort. There are a lot of good tutorials, but you're basically looking for a light brown with tan streaks blended in.
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Jul 21, 2018 01:13
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I got a bunch of citadel woods bases that I want to give more of a jungle theme. It turns out that an upside-down 50mm base will fit in the circular slot pretty well. Using Reaper Bones dragon plants and the GW ferns. Gonna flock the poo poo out of it after it’s painted.
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Jul 21, 2018 02:47
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Another Death Guard progress report:  _  _  I missed a lot of places, and it's messy in places, but I like how it's come out so far. In hindsight, it would have helped if I primed and painted the pieces before assembling, but hopefully the places I couldn't reach won't stand out. I had a bit more fun during this session, just because I like painting with metallic paint. (Maybe I should try the Adeptus Custodes.) I'm still not sure how to do the fleshy tentacle bits without a decent purple/red paint or wash, and I don't know how to paint the pustles, either. I might just do a few more details, put the base paint down, then shelf these guys until I can get some other colors to do those bits.
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Jul 21, 2018 04:16
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moths posted:You're going to lose the purity seals in red bolters, and it'll detract from the red helmet. I think woodgrain bolters is a terrible idea. You can set the purity seal apart by using a brighter red.
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Jul 21, 2018 06:16
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:You can set the purity seal apart by using a brighter red.
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Jul 21, 2018 06:19
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Another option would be hazard stripes on the casing. Worn yellow and black stripes wouldn't add another colour thanks to the gold being similar in hue to the yellow, you'd keep some of the black and the wax of the purity seal's wouldn't be obscured. Otherwise N'thing the red casing but with green wax on the seals (to tie in with the eye lenses). I'm also partial to brown base rims too,
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Jul 21, 2018 06:39
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Fun fact, Tamiya flat yellow is the exact colour of regulation hazard stripes.
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Jul 21, 2018 06:43
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So I've primed my models black, would a darkish brown reduce the number of coats I need for skin? I plan to paint skin with the flesh tone, brown wash, flesh tone again as highlights method. I've also got no idea what I'm doing.
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Jul 21, 2018 07:00
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What's a good method of replicating the wonderful blued metal used in fancy watches? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=09zu0GH-AHY&t=227s
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Jul 21, 2018 07:03
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Zeppelin Insanity posted:What's a good method of replicating the wonderful blued metal used in fancy watches? I reckon AK Interactive probably makes something for it.
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Jul 21, 2018 07:10
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Zeppelin Insanity posted:What's a good method of replicating the wonderful blued metal used in fancy watches? I'd personally try to replicate that general color but a smidgen darker then add a little Vallejo metallic medium. Depending on the ratio, should be able to get something relatively close to that dark-candy bluegreen. On the topic of color mixing, is there a better way to miss a color than just swirling them around with your brush? The main brushes I use (army painter) are short-bristled enough that mixing usually ends with the entirety of the bristles covered in paint, which even with thorough washing, has probably not been kind to their condition.
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Jul 21, 2018 08:47
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Archenteron posted:On the topic of color mixing, is there a better way to miss a color than just swirling them around with your brush? The main brushes I use (army painter) are short-bristled enough that mixing usually ends with the entirety of the bristles covered in paint, which even with thorough washing, has probably not been kind to their condition. You can buy packs of hundreds of mini/micro brushes from china for next to nothing. If you buy dedicated hobby-branded ones from western stores and companies, they'll charge you five bucks for ten of them. Get em on eBay for 1/10th the price. They very small, but with just enough bristle on the tip to properly mix small amounts of paint. eBay Micro Brushes. If I need to mix larger amounts of paint, then I move up to wooden coffee stir sticks, which again you can buy in bulk packs for cheap on eBay. Even more paint, I move up to popsicle sticks, which are common enough you can pick up locally at craft stores for decent prices.
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Jul 21, 2018 09:27
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Zeppelin Insanity posted:What's a good method of replicating the wonderful blued metal used in fancy watches? P3 Coal Black
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Jul 21, 2018 12:39
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:I think woodgrain bolters is a terrible idea. You can set the purity seal apart by using a brighter red. Don't do the whole bolter! Just the side pannel. The idea is to unobtrusively break up the mass of black, like in this low-effort mockup:  I like the idea of wood paneling because it conveys some of the setting's anachronistic retro future-past, but it's not for everybody. (I stole the texture from this guide.)
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Jul 21, 2018 12:44
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moths posted:Don't do the whole bolter! Just the side pannel. The idea is to unobtrusively break up the mass of black, like in this low-effort mockup: This is clearly a difference in taste. I genuinely think that looks terrible.
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Jul 21, 2018 15:48
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I'm not a fan of any wood in the 40k universe. Wood is natural, the Imperium is anything but. Even in the pulp novels wood is a prized antique.
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Jul 21, 2018 16:07
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I'm okay with faux-wood stocks for Lasguns but can admit it looks slightly off on Bolters.
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Jul 21, 2018 16:17
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(imo) I’d say that for the more ornate and catholic-y regular marines like dark angels vets or blood angels, wood paneling along with gold trim can work. But Primaris are too modern and sleek for that, it would be like wood trim on an Infinity model. A lighter shade of blue-gray would break up all the black while keeping the theme of weapons purely for business, no pleasure.
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Jul 21, 2018 17:39
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:This is clearly a difference in taste. I genuinely think that looks terrible. Fair enough. Some of my first models were first gen Plague Marines, so I have a soft spot for the look.
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Jul 21, 2018 17:56
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Day 2 thoughts on the new yellows, after comparing both on cloaks, hair, and flat armour (my old space marine collection has become very accustomed to spending time in the simple green spa these days to test new paints on) - pigment consistency and density is a real annoyance with both TAP Babe Yellow and VGC Sun Yellow compared to Tamiya XF-3. TAPBY continues to have problems mixing medium with pigment despite aggressive agitation, and despite appearing not to, VGCSY's pigment:medium ratio has similar issues. Babe Yellow does a decent hair glaze, however, and Sun Yellow is a lovely shade. Coverage and pigment density on both just does not compare, though, so I return to my standard position that XF-3 is the ideal 'base' yellow for a solid colour. I don't ordinarily post my ongoing thoughts on new paints I get - e.g. my VGC dead white has some consistency issues but who cares - but yellow is a consistently tricky colour to work with for people as well as a common one, so I figure it's worth hearing.
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Jul 21, 2018 18:16
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Never painted before, gave it a shot last night: https://imgur.com/a/TnJoVg5 Fun! Hard! Eh those photos suck, these do less: https://imgur.com/a/IwYfTmQ Any suggestions for detail that could be added or anything in general appreciated. I'm beaming with pride despite my seriously grossed out son's reaction but hey, always growing... Harvey Mantaco fucked around with this message at 19:23 on Jul 21, 2018 |
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Jul 21, 2018 19:15
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Do this but replace the wood part with gold.  Red could work too (if you change the wax color), but if I were going to add more red, I'd probably do a kneepad.
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Jul 21, 2018 19:57
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DiHK posted:I'm not a fan of any wood in the 40k universe. Wood is natural, the Imperium is anything but. Even in the pulp novels wood is a prized antique. How soon we forget this forum's very own Mean Green Tree Marines.
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Jul 21, 2018 20:02
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Harvey Mantaco posted:Never painted before, gave it a shot last night: I wish my first models looked like that, drat
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Jul 21, 2018 20:16
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DiHK posted:Even in the pulp novels wood is a prized antique. To be fair so is pretty much every piece of wargear a space marine carries.
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Jul 21, 2018 20:18
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Skarsnik posted:I wish my first models looked like that, drat Thanks for that! One thing that I am not happy with in particular is large sections of the green armor have various small details like indentations and whatnot but I didn't really know how to express them so they're just green across the board and I don't really like it. Is there something that you would do to it play with that area a bit? Also how do I do guns I just did Black and I dry brushed White on to them to make them pop a bit (overdid it). Also is there a wash that would be a good idea for metal components compared to flesh compared to well I'm not really sure, I'm not really sure how to pick the appropriate wash for a section of a model.
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Jul 21, 2018 21:01
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Harvey Mantaco posted:Thanks for that! The official Citadel Paint app can help with paint suggestions. You just select the model or colour you want to achieve and it gives a little picture annotated with what stuff to use. Their wash named Agrax Earthshade would be a good thing to paint all over the green armour, as it would collect in those little holes you mentioned and give it all some real depth. You could also use that same wash on the bronze trim to darken it down and make it a bit more grungy looking. Then maybe edge highlight with some lighter bronze colour? You could also do the same with the armour colour after washing it with Agrax Earthshade. Doing this would solve the "flat" problem that's happening a little right now. Seriously though, very nice, neat work.
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Jul 21, 2018 21:27
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Gunder posted:Seriously though, very nice, neat work. This 75% of good miniature painting is a neatness, good poo poo Once you've done a tidy basecoat like you've already done a wash will do most of the work for you
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Jul 21, 2018 21:34
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Hmm. I already did a wash, literally the one mentioned. I was worried the residue it left on the higher up surfaces and what seemed like me to be too much pooling in the nooks would be too much so I cleaned off a lot of it with a large soak-brush. How much does that stuff "dry down" and reduce? Was I being too paranoid? Again, thank you for the warm response. It's really encouraging 
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Jul 21, 2018 21:47
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