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Does anyone have advice on DIY custom vehicle liveries? I want to put the F1 scuderia toro rosso livery on a 1997 civic coupe but I've never done anything like it before. Like this one: I assume a complete custom wrap would be too expensive, so my thinking is to paint the whole car metallic blue and then add custom vinyl for the red and silver parts. I guess the goal is to do it cheaply since it is just a low budget race car. Or tell me I'm dumb, maybe it is too complex/ambitious of a design for a beginner, I'm ok with that too.
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Jul 22, 2018 20:55
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Sex Weirdo posted:Does anyone have advice on DIY custom vehicle liveries? I want to put the F1 scuderia toro rosso livery on a 1997 civic coupe but I've never done anything like it before. Like this one: A complete custom wrap is much less expensive than you think, and more easily customizable to get the replica look you're going for. Any decent graphic design wrap artist that makes the templates for customers could whip that out in photoshop in no time for you, have it printed, and technicians install the wrap all in 1 day. It's much more expensive to take it to a paint and body shop and have the car re-painted, custom vinyl applied (this is super expensive, our shop's vinyl and pinstriper guy charges like $90 an hour; although he does perfect work). It's not too ambitious at all. Just research what shops do custom vinyl wrap work for business vehicles in your area, contact them and ask to speak to their design specialist. It's certainly much cheaper than a custom paint job.
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Jul 23, 2018 01:25
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How durable are those? My van is currently krylon white and I would like it to not be but painting is $rape.
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Jul 23, 2018 01:46
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If I put my 200SX up for $2000/OBO, expecting someone to knock that price down quite a bit, is that a crazy starting point? I plan on putting it up on Craigslist not only here, but in the surrounding states.
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Jul 23, 2018 02:14
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Detective Thompson posted:If I put my 200SX up for $2000/OBO, expecting someone to knock that price down quite a bit, is that a crazy starting point? I plan on putting it up on Craigslist not only here, but in the surrounding states. NADA has it at $2125 average, so it should be fine. That's for the turbo version, but I wouldn't sweat it.
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Jul 23, 2018 02:24
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Javid posted:How durable are those? My van is currently krylon white and I would like it to not be but painting is $rape. They're durable. Not protective, like say a ceramic coating would be, but they're meant to withstand city mileage on busy work trucks for the most part, trucks that put time in on construction sites, moving around, etc. They do amazing work on van graphics, as it's kind of the ideal canvas for being able to express your design with the space available for artwork on van panels. Working at a paint and body shop for years, I can tell you that painting your car is always going to be more expensive than getting a vinyl wrap done. Yes, of course, you can make it cheaper especially if you know a painter personally, prep your car yourself, and so on, but in general most owners will never do that. So paint shops really surprise people with their quotes, and I think have made the vinyl wrap industry a strong contender for customization. Take a look at some of the vinyl wrap work vehicles cruising around your city. Usually the shop that does them will put some sort of watermark/T.M. on their work if the owners let them; they usually do. Question of my own - Are the Cadillac northstar v8 engines made in 2001 and 2002 safer from all the mistakes that they supposedly fixed with the northstars after 2000? Or are they still prone to all the failures of the previous ones?
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Jul 23, 2018 02:57
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Crosspost:HenryJLittlefinger posted:Can anybody recommend me some pinstriping tape and/or warn me against any particular brand or type?
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Jul 24, 2018 06:14
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I've always had good results with 3M branded products, that would be my preference.
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Jul 24, 2018 13:08
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89 F250, working on an axle swap. Got some Moog bushings for a panhard rod, they didn't come with lube, and they're blue, which the internet tells me is thermoplastic, but I'm having trouble finding out if they require lube. Anyone have any light to shed on that?
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Jul 24, 2018 22:02
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My (dedicated VW) mechanic suggested I start putting fuel treatment into my high milelage mk4 2003 Diesel Golf. It's had some heavily carbonated parts in the last two years so they said it would help with that, since Canada's diesel sucks, or something? Now, when I run the car at 3k rpm or higher, the car is smoking black very lightly. I know it could be many things, but it could be the fuel treatment, yes? I'm taking it it to get a TPS issue diagnosed. Wish me luck!
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Jul 25, 2018 02:42
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It could be. It could also be a dirty air filter, or a lot of other things, or just normal operation. It's going to smoke a little bit when you wind it out anyway - are you sure you just never noticed the smoke before?
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Jul 25, 2018 03:03
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Bajaha posted:I've always had good results with 3M branded products, that would be my preference. Thanks. Got a roll of the Scotchcal stuff. Related questiosn: How tight of a curve is it reasonable to expect to be able make with 1/8" striping tape? Will it help to have it warm? HenryJLittlefinger fucked around with this message at 04:27 on Jul 25, 2018 |
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Jul 25, 2018 04:25
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The bolt holding the end of the seatbelt to the floor in my 85 CJ-7 is hosed. It was a Torx T-50, already a bit stripped by the time I started to remove it, and after getting the bolt about halfway out it finally stripped completely. The bolt is incredibly stiff; it was making squealing noises every time I turned it. The bolt head is round, so I can't put a hex socket on it and the space is too tight to get my angle grinder in & grind it into something I could get with a wrench. If it wasn't so stiff I'd just cut a slot in the top and use a flathead screwdriver, but I don't think I could get enough leverage. I don't have a welder, or I'd weld a hex head on top of it. Is JB Weld strong enough under torsion that I could jam the end of a smaller hex-head bolt into the stripped-out torx socket and glue it in? I could probably borrow my friend's Dremel and cut off the edges of the bolt for a wrench... Any suggestions?
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Jul 25, 2018 15:29
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Pham Nuwen posted:I could probably borrow my friend's Dremel and cut off the edges of the bolt for a wrench Yes Also penetrating oil
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Jul 25, 2018 15:35
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Grind the sides of the head down flat and put an open-end wrench on it? Also apply heat and penetrating oil before you continue attempting to extract it.
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Jul 25, 2018 15:36
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Geoj posted:Also apply heat and penetrating oil before you continue attempting to extract it. That's how I got it moving at all. I should go hit it with more PB now, so it has more time to soak. Looks like grinding it down is my best bet.
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Jul 25, 2018 15:39
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DavidAlltheTime posted:My (dedicated VW) mechanic suggested I start putting fuel treatment into my high milelage mk4 2003 Diesel Golf. It's had some heavily carbonated parts in the last two years so they said it would help with that, since Canada's diesel sucks, or something? Now, when I run the car at 3k rpm or higher, the car is smoking black very lightly. I know it could be many things, but it could be the fuel treatment, yes? Any additive that lubricates is good for TDIs like primrose or stanadyne. The newer fuel has less sulphur thus less lubricity. The TPS is the gas pedal on that car, there is no physical linkage from the pedal to the injection pump. Usually when it fails it will idle at 1200 rpms and won't respond to input, what is yours doing? Also the haze of smoke is probably from the intake being clogged if it has never been cleaned. It will also reduce power substantially eventually if it gets worse. The PCV fumes combine with the EGR soot and clog it up.
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Jul 25, 2018 16:21
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Old Binsby posted:the local Renault place is doing some next level maneuvering to avoid capacity issues in the summer holiday season, they're closed from 9-28 July (!!). The one a town over is in business (except way busier than usual) but someone was friendly enough to look up parts numbers for the decapitated shock mount when I called them. The next garage is near our next campsite and not that far a drive, we should be able to get there considering this issue has existed a while. Called them, they said delivery time is a day straight from Renault, which I thought for a 33 year old car (a model retired >20 years ago) is pretty impressive. Thanks for the reassurance let's hope you all were right and this will turn out to be a relatively quick fix in the end ok, last follow up on this. that suspension mount had a bolt inside it that broke off but it couldn’t be removed entirely and replaced. That’s what the renault guys were planning on doing initially but it turned out to be firmly and irreversibly welded to the rear suspension and only the bolt inside was replaceable. The camping owner in the town I got it fixed in turned out to be a retired Renault mechanic, having done around 20 years of working on these cars he told me straight away that a) the Espace isn’t a Renault, it’s a Matra and b) younger Renault mechanics have no idea how it’s put together. He insisted on accompanying me to the dealer so they’d make ‘a decent effort’ I’m really glad he did, apparently they went through three drill bits and batteries tapping a new screw thread for the 20mm bolt that broke off, though finishing three hours after I brought it in because it was (according to the ‘master engineer’) a matter of honor that they succeeded at all. Bill: 80€, cash, no receipt, lol oh baby, she pretty 
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Jul 25, 2018 17:09
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Specific car is a 2010 Civic hatch, 8th gen, 1.8si. Can i fit LED bulbs in this using the standard housings without being that guy who blinds everyone else? The appeal is mostly longevity, though if I could get better visibility without being a dick to others that would be cool too.
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Jul 25, 2018 17:33
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I'm sure you can fit them physically, but you really shouldn't. Even once you take blinding other drivers out of the equation best case scenario is your headlights will illuminate a few hundred feet ahead of you. At 60 MPH that works out to having maybe 2-3 seconds to react to something in the road. Modern headlights are precisely designed around the size, shape, location and output characteristics of the bulb they're intended to work with. Changing that out for a bulb that consists of multiple SMD LEDs throws all of that design out the window with predictable results. The best comparison I've read is its like assuming that you can just use someone else's pair of eyeglasses - yes, they might fit, but you probably aren't going to be able to see anything through them.
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Jul 25, 2018 17:56
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It also seems like a lot of expense and bother for an 8-year-old car. Stick with what you've got until you can get something newer with the type of headlights you want.
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Jul 25, 2018 18:03
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Old Binsby posted:I’m really glad he did, apparently they went through three drill bits and batteries tapping a new screw thread for the 20mm bolt that broke off, though finishing three hours after I brought it in because it was (according to the ‘master engineer’) a matter of honor that they succeeded at all. Bill: 80€, cash, no receipt, lol spog posted:€50 bill at most. Pretty close estimate! Bet you're having to beat the honeys off your sweet ride now.
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Jul 25, 2018 18:13
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Father Jack posted:Specific car is a 2010 Civic hatch, 8th gen, 1.8si. There are no such things as "plug and play" HID or LED bulbs that can be dropped in to housings not built for them. The light patterns emitted by the different light sources are significantly different and optics built for one will not properly focus and guide light from the other in to the right places. It's possible to emulate the pattern of halogen or HID bulbs with LED sources using lightguides, but that ends up losing a lot of light so it's not useful in a headlight application. There are a few companies working on bulbs using laser-activated phosphors which may allow for an actual plug and play option at some point in the future, but currently if you want to change the class of light source you need to also change out the optics as well, as in retrofitting a proper projector.
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Jul 25, 2018 18:21
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Old Binsby posted:ok, last follow up on this. that suspension mount had a bolt inside it that broke off but it couldn’t be removed entirely and replaced. That’s what the renault guys were planning on doing initially but it turned out to be firmly and irreversibly welded to the rear suspension and only the bolt inside was replaceable. The camping owner in the town I got it fixed in turned out to be a retired Renault mechanic, having done around 20 years of working on these cars he told me straight away that a) the Espace isn’t a Renault, it’s a Matra and b) younger Renault mechanics have no idea how it’s put together. He insisted on accompanying me to the dealer so they’d make ‘a decent effort’ All that's missing from this picture is a caravan and a bag of aviko potatoes.
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Jul 25, 2018 18:27
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STR posted:It could be. It could also be a dirty air filter, or a lot of other things, or just normal operation. I'll check the air filter. It's smoking more now at high rpms than it ever did before - before I would perhaps see some hints of smoke, but it is a bit heavier now. shy boy from chess club posted:Any additive that lubricates is good for TDIs like primrose or stanadyne. The newer fuel has less sulphur thus less lubricity. The TPS is the gas pedal on that car, there is no physical linkage from the pedal to the injection pump. Usually when it fails it will idle at 1200 rpms and won't respond to input, what is yours doing? Also the haze of smoke is probably from the intake being clogged if it has never been cleaned. It will also reduce power substantially eventually if it gets worse. The PCV fumes combine with the EGR soot and clog it up. It's doing exactly what you say when the TPS fails. I can restart the car and there's no problem. Sometimes it does it ten times on a five minute drive, sometimes I can put 500kms behind me without anything. The shop cleared a rodent nest out of where the ECM lives, and I'm wondering if there's more wiring damage that they missed. They told me that this is more likely than the TPS being faulty, so we will see what they say. The intake was totally clogged at one point, and after being cleaned is when I got the recommendation to use a lubricating additive. Thanks for the responses!
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Jul 25, 2018 18:47
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spog posted:Pretty close estimate! it’s a bit of a bother but absolutely worth it spankmeister posted:All that's missing from this picture is a caravan and a bag of aviko potatoes. i can assure you no bags of aviko potatoes are in the vicinity. The caravan is the Espace itself
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Jul 25, 2018 19:08
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Father Jack posted:Specific car is a 2010 Civic hatch, 8th gen, 1.8si. No, please don't. If you wish to upgrade your headlights, get a higher quality bulb (those bulbs are not likely available at your local pepboys/ rice supply depot), and if there is any yellowing or haze on your (probably) plastic headlight lenses, you should polish the poo poo out of them, or if necessary, replace.
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Jul 25, 2018 21:25
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Thanks to all who chimed on on bulb chat, halogen it is then.wolrah posted:There are no such things as "plug and play" HID or LED bulbs that can be dropped in to housings not built for them. The LED ones came up on a search for the bulb size on a very mainstream place to buy such things in the UK (Halfords), so I thought they were maybe different in practice from the old ebay HID things. Guess not, and oh god the problem with people with obnoxious headlights is going to get worse before it gets better isn't it?
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Jul 25, 2018 22:20
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Fun van noises! Loud squeaking from the engine bay, goes completely away if I kick on the AC. Got to my destination and took a peek under the hood and welp  Is that a thing that comes loose that I can ratchet down again real quick, or is that tensioner just honked? (lovely photo, if you can't tell, the tensioner is angled forward like 10 degrees instead of in a plane with the rest of the stuff on the belt)
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Jul 25, 2018 22:41
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Javid posted:Fun van noises! You won't know for sure until you put a spanner on it but it looks honked
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Jul 25, 2018 23:05
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Well that's a problem because it's $15 on rockauto and loving $80 anywhere physical :| hopefully I can tighten it down enough to get home and drive my car until it comes from them.
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Jul 25, 2018 23:11
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Is that the tensioner on your van? It's hoopajooped.
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Jul 25, 2018 23:22
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Well there's yer problem!
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Jul 25, 2018 23:23
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loving bolt on strut mount absolutely refuses to come off. Has been soaked in penetrating fluid, and can't use heat because of the adjacent rubber. Dangerously close to stripping the 6mm on top of the koni struts as well now. This is what is really boring when it comes to DIY car repair.
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Jul 25, 2018 23:30
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Update: got a wrench on it and was able to tighten it back into position. The armature appears physically sound, is the bolt backing out like that a symptom of imminent failure, or just a result of how many times I've had the belt on and off fighting with the alternator previously?
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Jul 26, 2018 00:10
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If there are no weird wear marks on the bolt it likely just worked its way off, especially if you've been taking it off a lot the bolt could be stretched, we had some steering gear bolts refuse to stay tight after being removed and reapplied a few dozen times and had to replace them. I would suggest at least some blue loctite to keep it on there and probably change the tensioner pully if you have no idea how old it is.
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Jul 26, 2018 01:40
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Yeah I have no problem throwing one in my rockauto cart just to erase any lingering doubt, just gently caress paying $80 for one.
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Jul 26, 2018 02:01
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I have a 2013 Ford Focus stick shift car and I have a question about the air conditioner. It is not working well. The problem is best described as: I turn it on and it runs well blowing out cold air for about 20 minutes. It then begins blowing out much less cold air and smelling kind of like a wet moist swamp with socks left in it. If I turn off the AC for about twenty minutes and keep driving, then turn it back on, it blows new fresh cold air well again for about twenty more minutes before it gets warm with the smell again. Two caveats I’ve noticed. One, if I have the “recirculate interior air” button off it works a tiny bit better but is assuredly not cold cold air coming out like it does at startup, but does not ever have that wet swampy smell no matter how long I keep it on. Two, If the temperature outside is below about 85-90 degrees I do not have any problems at all and the AC will run well indefinitely without smell. I don’t know much but I imagine water condensation is building up inside the coils and not venting or something? I tried recharging it with store bought Freon and that did not help, but the pressure of the Freon to begin with was not low. I once had a car that leaked Freon and would have to refill it often and this doesn’t seem to be that problem. Any ideas and what I should be asking a mechanic for would be super appreciated. Thanks!
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Jul 26, 2018 02:27
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Try the a/c megathread over here: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3852329
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Jul 26, 2018 02:37
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Blind Rasputin posted:Any ideas and what I should be asking a mechanic for would be super appreciated. Thanks! Important question: Does water drip underneath your car while the A/C is running? It should. If not, it might be as simple as a clogged condensation drain, which you can clear with some wire or a screwdriver if you get under the car and find the drain. If not, you might have issues with the evaporator freezing over, in which case: Javid posted:Try the a/c megathread over here: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3852329 Either problem would get better running recirculated, as they happen due to humidity condensing out and accumulating. Recirculated air has already been dehumidified, so there's no moisture left to condense.
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Jul 26, 2018 04:03
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