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Keep an eye on him. Sometimes fish won't go full dick for a week or two after they get moved. I've had mollies before that took a few weeks before the males started competing for females
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Jul 24, 2018 19:49
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Any cichlid I just assume it's going to be some kind of rear end in a top hat (but then, I've never kept cichlids). Are there any chill cichlids or do they all get moody and territorial at times?
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Jul 24, 2018 20:22
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Applebees Appetizer posted:From what I've read they are supposed to be super aggressive but this one is really chill, hasn't hurt any of the other fish we put in with it, a few mollys and another type of small cichlid.
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Jul 24, 2018 22:14
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It's been in the tank since Friday so we'll see.....Stoca Zola posted:Any cichlid I just assume it's going to be some kind of rear end in a top hat (but then, I've never kept cichlids). Are there any chill cichlids or do they all get moody and territorial at times? I watched a youtube video about them with the commentator saying they are super aggressive, but then in the comments a bunch of people were saying they had some that were super chill and got along fine with other fish. I think it might depend on the individual fish but who knows. A buddy of mine that kept saltwater fish was telling me how clown triggers were like a luck of the draw, some were complete assholes that killed everything, while others were chill, got along with other fish and would eat out of your hand, I wonder if it's a similar kinda deal. Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 23:35 on Jul 24, 2018 |
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Jul 24, 2018 23:31
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Are hang on back filters going to be too strong for pea puffers in a 30 gallon? I have an assortment of aquaclears floating around id like to try using before I go out and buy something new...
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Jul 24, 2018 23:39
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Stoca Zola posted:Any cichlid I just assume it's going to be some kind of rear end in a top hat (but then, I've never kept cichlids). Are there any chill cichlids or do they all get moody and territorial at times? Rams and apistos are all pretty chill, honestly. Kribs are pretty okay in a community tank until they spawn, and they will spawn. I remember my big male krib defending an entire half of a 55 gallon tank from the dastardly rainbows and gourami they shared the tank with. After I finally got all the kribs out of that tank I wound up putting a blue acara into it and he just seemed happy to be alive, like a labrador retreiver. I had a large and grumpy male turquoise rainbowfish that would act all huffy to the acara trying to impress the ladies but Ted never seemed to even notice him. Ted was a good fish, and I honestly miss the guy.
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Jul 25, 2018 00:25
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I only had a jewel cichlid once and he wasn't very aggressive. I would put it in the annoying "middle aggressive" category that can be hard to predict, though. And as with most cichlids, the aggression ramps up, sometimes way up when they spawn. Some cichlids are very chill though. In my experience keyholes are model community tank residents, although they can be rough on each other when a pair forms and there's any other keyholes in the tank. German Blue Rams are also super chill little fish. I'm sure there's more, but that's just off the top of my head. Ironically, most oscars aren't very aggressive towards fish they can't eat, but people seem to think they are. They routinely get bullied by smaller cichlids that actually are very aggressive. I learned that the hard way when I was growing up. I had a 5 inch oscar that killed by a 3 inch convict  :
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Jul 25, 2018 00:31
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Bulky Bartokomous posted:Ironically, most oscars aren't very aggressive towards fish they can't eat, but people seem to think they are. They routinely get bullied by smaller cichlids that actually are very aggressive. I learned that the hard way when I was growing up. I had a 5 inch oscar that killed by a 3 inch convict Back in the 90's I had four (about fist-sized) piranhas in their own tank and a cichlid tank. There was this little yellow cichlid that was complete rear end in a top hat trying to kill every other fish in the tank. When it finally succeeded and killed two other cichlids I got pissed and threw it in the piranhas tank to be food (I know kinda lovely but I was pissed) and what happened amazed me. The piranhas were TERRIFIED of this little cichlid, it immediately went right after them and the were cowering the entire time it was in the tank with them. I couldn't believe it. So I took it back to the fish store I bought it from and said gently caress this fish I don't want it 
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Jul 25, 2018 01:00
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After 6 months of failed fishless cycles (and a period where I was fed up and busy and kind of wasn't paying any attention to the tank at all) I finally decided it was time to poo poo or get off the put so I got 5 goldfish today. I know everyone advised against that but I just needed to do something and didn't want to buy a bunch of more expensive fish and kill them. I don't want to kill them but I also hope that they cycle my tanks so I can replace them with nicer fish. I feel a little bad that I'm experimenting with them. But I really did have to do something or risk losing all interest in frustration. I hope you all don't hate me. I floated the bag for 3 hours, added in small bits of tank water, let the PH get even, didn't put the store water in the tank, all the stuff the internet told me. My first impressions are: A) YAY! I HAVE FISH! B) They really hate the light. Like REALLY. Whenever i turn it on they hide in the corner. I figure I'll leave the light off for a day or two and let them get used to their home and then turn it on for awhile and hope they get used to it. C) They don't seem to swim high in the tank at all. They all stick to a pretty low level even when they scatter. I wonder if the filter is too powerful and they're avoiding it? I might try that trick from youtube of putting something in front of the filter to block its flow a little. D) I have no idea how much I should be feeding them. I've fed them twice (a small pinch) and they ate everything. I figure I'll give them another pinch before bed. Instructions seem really vague so I figure if they eat what I give them quickly we're good? E) YAY! I HAVE FISH!
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Jul 25, 2018 02:29
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Goldfish are lying liars about how hungry they are, don't believe their begging ways! I always say there's many many ways to keep fish, there's no one true perfect way. You made a good effort doing one method and there is no outrage in trying something differently, as long as you're still monitoring water quality, fish health, doing water changes as necessary and doing maintenance on your filter it's all good. With fish in you want to monitor your ammonia levels closely and water change fairly frequently until everything settles down, especially with five fish I think the waste levels could build up quite quickly (I don't remember how big your tank is). But, there's a 5 gallon tank at my work with three goldfish, a tiny filter, totally insufficient number of water changes, and the fish have lasted for at least 6 months because the person running the tank just keeps adding more and more water conditioner - I'm sure whatever you come up with will be better than that!
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Jul 25, 2018 05:33
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Forgot to say it sounds like you're feeding them right. The more you feed the more they poop, uneaten food is worse for a tank than fish poop though. You could probably get away with 2 or one feeding a day and try to make sure you feed them food with good vegetable content. The critical thing is to make sure there is no uneaten food. If you underfeed I think they just grow slower and poop less, it's pretty hard to starve a fish.
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Jul 25, 2018 05:37
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Goldfish tend to hang low when they're stressed or unhappy. So long as the water quality is fine and they're being fed like they should (which it sounds like you're doing), then I wouldn't worry too much about it. They'll get used to their new environment soon enough and you'll start to see their individual personalities.
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Jul 25, 2018 11:00
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I've been wracking my brain on a racking idea (hah hah). I'm building myself a new office in our basement, lots of room - going to make it a mini-fish-room as well. I want to get one of the heavy-duty costco racks, and put 4 20 or 30 gallon tanks on it, and use my scratched-to-poo poo-55 as a sump for all 4. I get this means that anything will affect all of the tanks, but I have a fully separate quarantine tank setup already.  So the idea is to have two pumps in the sump. Those pump the filtered water up into the top tanks. Top tanks overflow into the middle tanks, which overflow back into the sump to be filtered again. So red are "fish" tanks, green is my sump, dark blue is pumped water, light purple is overflow from upper-mid tanks, and light-blue is overflow from those into the sump. Overflows will be set high enough and the 55 gallon left with enough headroom that if the power fails, I shouldn't flood myself out. I think I'd put the heater in the sump - as long as its specced for the total water volume, that will likely work alright? Or should I put individual heaters in the tanks themselves? I'll be running a sponge filter in each tank as well for aeration/extra filtration. Air pump will be on a UPS so that I have filtration even during power outages. Probably put more "sensitive" fish in the top tank, and the less so ones in the middles. Top tanks will likely be moderately planted but with cory's and some other mid/top schoolers. Middle tanks will be heavily planted with live-bearers (guppys or platty's is my current thought). Good idea/bad idea/dumb idea?
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Jul 25, 2018 13:02
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I've seen a few fishroom videos on youtube and I think they tend to use a bit more plumbing and do it more like this (excuse shoddy diagram and lazy I-forgot-to-finish-drawing-it sump):  Drill tanks low (but not right at the bottom) and have a removable or movable standpipe. You can then get a LOT of water out of the tank if you need to for whatever reason but the default overflow height is quite tall. Top of standpipe has mesh or a strainer or is slotted to prevent snails and other things from causing blockages. You can angle the standpipe lower if you need to drop the water level, or have the standpipe sitting loose in an elbow then pull it completely out/swap with a strainer for doing huge water changes. I forgot there should be a valve after the bulkhead leaving the tank, but before the drain pipe so you can turn off tank draining for when you want to adjust or maintain the standpipe without draining the tank. Standpipe diameter is larger than return pipe diameter, but then the drain pipe that it goes into is bigger again (some people even use open gutters for this part, not sure if there is an advantage to this beyond visibility). You run it with a slope towards the downpipe at the left to ensure water doesn't pool. I forgot to include in my diagram a T junction and drain valve before the sump entry point so you can redirect overflow water to a drain for water changes. Stick your fresh change water hose in the bottom of the sump, open your drain valve, and you're changing all the water at once. The sump return has one pump with valves on all the return lines so you can set your required flow rate for each tank, plus an extra return back into the sump to allow any excess pressure to go somewhere. Stick your heater(s) in the bottom of one of the sump chambers, I'd probably use the 2 undersized heater method for redundancy and failure protection. Advantages of this method: Any individual tank can be isolated if necessary by closing the return valve. If any bulkhead leaks, there should still be water in the very bottom of the tank for fish survival (as opposed to a bottom drilled tank which could potentially lose all water). Whole system water changes are pretty easy, I could imagine from this set up you could pipe water directly into the sump from a treated water reservoir and almost have your water changes completely automated. Disadvantages with this method: same water parameters for all fish, no redundancy for overflows, overflows might be noisy/slurpy/gurgly, return pump needs to be pretty beefy, no redundancy for return pump (but you could T a second pump into the sump outlet plumbing to get around that, but I think once you have multiple pumps you might want non return valves on the pump lines). Tanks need to be drilled which always leaves you the potential for leaky bulkheads or broken glass while drilling(this can be avoided using one of the many DIY overflow designs (Joey's slotted PVC high-flow overflow, Roma Aquatics' more compact version) With a rack like this I'd want to put some of those cheap beepy water high level alarms on every tank (and maybe one water detector on the floor under the rack) to sound the alarm if anything starts to overflow. Definitely a good idea to run sponges as well I think, especially if you need to isolate a tank you don't have to worry about it not having filtration then. I do think having a huge amount of filtration in a sump outweighs the potential for mass contamination; if a fish dies in one tank, you have all that filtration to deal with the resulting ammonia and a huge total volume of water to dilute the waste products. It's only an issue if you don't keep up with maintenance. Which reminds me, make sure you give yourself enough room at the bottom to get in and maintain the sump. One of my biggest regrets is putting one of my larger tanks at the bottom of a rack, it's too low to the ground and it's kind of crippling bending over trying to work on it so if you can, make sure you give yourself a good height off the floor. You can always stand on something to access the other tanks higher in the rack, but you can't shrink yourself trying to access the bottom level. Edit to add: keep in mind I don't have a rack myself, I have no experience with running a rack, I'm just regurgitating stuff I've read about and have thought about a lot but never got around to implementing. I'm still 100% bucket crew for everything but filling my big tank. Stoca Zola fucked around with this message at 15:27 on Jul 25, 2018 |
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Jul 25, 2018 15:10
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Alright, got some lovely pics as the tank stands now Daytime with or without the accent lighting  Nighttime with the party goin'  I can change the color and brightness aswell as set it to cycle through all colors or let it pulse white. Got some Anubias coming to fill in that left corner a bit more
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Jul 25, 2018 15:43
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Well, I ordered a 36"x18"x18" tank (this one, specifically - .5" low iron glass!). Bit of an upgrade from my 5 gallon, and I hope the larger volume will help keep temperature swings moderated. I'm planning on leaving the top 3-4" for emergent plant growth and am sketching out some aquascaping ideas. I want this to be a 'safe for baby shrimp' tank so that will be a factor in the design but also restricts the fish choices - I really love the look of some of those Endler's guppies. Other than that there will be different kinds of snails and, of course, shrimp. I'm going to attempt using a sponge filter and a powerhead for filtration, on the theory that the water level may be too low from the rim to use a HOB, and an air pump with sponge filter would remove too much CO2 from the water, being a low-tech heavily planted tank. For plants I know I will be using water wisteria, wendtii of some sort, and anubias, but other than that I'm open to ideas. Probably some fissidens moss as well. This is all rather intimidating but my previous tank turned out well, all things considered, so hopefully I can make this work. Aside from all the money and work and things that can go wrong, it's wonderful to have this living, moving slice of nature to look at.
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Jul 25, 2018 16:16
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Stoca Zola posted:I've seen a few fishroom videos on youtube and I think they tend to use a bit more plumbing and do it more like this (excuse shoddy diagram and lazy I-forgot-to-finish-drawing-it sump): Once again, you are a font of knowledge. I really appreciate the in-depth reply. I was debating on splitting the output like that - it probably would make more sense. Plus adjustable pressures, with a "blow-off" at the tank level for extra pressure is probably a good plan. I do figure that extra water volume for dilution is pretty much my main goal here. Plus I can apply a lot of filtration via the sump. I think I ~might~ just go overflow - but drilling is a solid option to. I'm going to go get 4 basic tank with glass lids for this, so I can make sure they'll be appropriate for drilling. Bulkheads aren't too much of a concern (leaking wise) from my standpoint - easy enough to install them correctly and use a bit of silicone to prevent any problems. I've got a few sump ideas to go over in my head as well. I'll hit up one of the semi-local (well, not at all local, but I'll be there) places that does a lot of saltwater and pick their brains on pumps, etc. This is kind of a mid-long term idea - I might get the tanks and just sponge filter them to start as I work on the sump. I also need to find one nice, big tank - want to update my "main" tank to a 90-125 gallon so my sailfin has room. He still fits in the 55, but with how he's growing, that may not last long.
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Jul 25, 2018 17:06
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Well the bad news is woke up to a dead goldfish. Its weird to have that experience for the first time in my 30s. The good news is the rest of them seem ok. They're more lively. They're swimming all around the tank, up and down, fast and furious when they were most huddled low yesterday. All the food is eaten. They're no longer scared of the light. Water looks a little cloudy but ammonia levels are low and PH is fine. I switched the chemical filter just to be safe and kept the sponge that's been in there for six months in there. So hopefully that one guy was just sick or something. But its not a great start. I'm cautiously optimistic. I THINK I'm doing what I'm supposed to.
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Jul 25, 2018 22:01
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If they were those dozen for a dollar types, don't fret over it. Those suckers aren't exactly the best long term pets as they're just mass bred to be food for other stuff.
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Jul 26, 2018 01:27
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It's a real shame, but yeah, the real dirt cheap goldfish seem to not last long. One of the goldfish we have actually came from a batch of those and it was a nightmare trying to get him back to health. I wish we could say the same for the other two we got from the same place, but they didn't last a week. It's a really unfortunate thing.
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Jul 26, 2018 01:51
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Yeah, I bought 5 for $2. Like I said, as much as I don't feel comfortable using a living creature as disposable part of my thinking is that since the fishless cycle wasn't really getting me anywhere maybe a few months of goldfish would get my tank and knowledge to the place where I feel comfortable with something nicer. I just feel bad about killing something. In less than a day. But the other guys seem ok and happy. And like I said, I don't THINK I did anything wrong.
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Jul 26, 2018 02:38
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Did you have chemical filtration in the tank when you were trying to fishless cycle? I wonder if it was eating all your ammonia and not letting your bacteria get any. I usually do a water change after finding a dead fish especially if it's been sitting for a while just to try and dilute any excess wastes from the dead fish. I honestly don't think you did anything wrong, the stress levels are high and overall health often very low in new cheap feeder fish. And for any new fish I count the first six weeks as the danger period where anything could happen, any latent disease process could surface, parasites show themselves etc. If you can keep them alive for six weeks you can start letting your guard down a bit. Any untreated ammonia in the tank does have potential to harm the gills of your fish so you want to keep your levels as low as possible. The bacteria will still slowly build up now that there is a continuous ammonia source.
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Jul 26, 2018 07:12
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I did the fishless cycle without the chemical packs and just a sponge for a couple of months and when that wasn't working I went with the packs. That didn't work either and then I got frustrated and neglected the tank for awhile. My problem was never not enough ammonia it was always sky high levels I couldn't bring down and that bacteria never grew from. I zoned back in a few weeks back, did a bunch of big water changes, cleaned some brown algae that had grown on the glass, and found the ammonia levels were low again. So I decided to get teh goldfish and try a new way and here I am. I'm probably going to do a 1/3rd water change or so in the next day or so. I want to move some of the decorations/plants around and I see some more algae in the corner I want to get cleaned. I'm trying to figure out how often I should do them. Its no problem to do partial changes with the hose I have, but I feel like I'm tempting fate if I do a full change right after I get the fish in and the ammonia levels under some control. I'm also trying to figure out if I should take the fish out during a change or just try and work around them. I wonder which would be more disturbing to them but right now I'm leaning towards working around them. They hide in the corner whenever I open the lid anyway. Moving them back and forth seems like it would be traumatic and Im pretty sure I can avoiding sucking up a fish.
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Jul 26, 2018 07:25
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Work around them. Taking them out has its own risks, but they'll get used to you doing a water change over time. e: Just to double check what you're probably already doing: you're treating the water for chlorine and stuff when you do a change, yeah?
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Jul 26, 2018 11:20
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Any way to grab a sponge or some other filter media from a healthy tank? Could definitely kickstart the tank for you
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Jul 26, 2018 14:27
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STAC Goat posted:Yeah, I bought 5 for $2. To be quite honest, goldfish, in my opinion, have a bad rep for being beginner fish. Goldfish are some of the harder fish to take care of just because of how messy they are. The only reason they're so cheap is because the feeder type are so easily mass bred with quality taking a back seat. If you want a better and more stable shot at fish for a beginner, get some platies, guppies, mollies, swordtails, or if you have a calm enough tank even a betta. They're more forgiving and easier to care for and come in a variety of colors (do not buy walmart bettas). If you do go with any of the first four, stick to one sex though. If you get males and females you will, and I promise you this, will have babies since they are live bearers and are hornier than rabbits (one humpin' from a male is good for multiple birthing cycles)
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Jul 26, 2018 16:03
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SocketWrench posted:To be quite honest, goldfish, in my opinion, have a bad rep for being beginner fish. Goldfish are some of the harder fish to take care of just because of how messy they are. The only reason they're so cheap is because the feeder type are so easily mass bred with quality taking a back seat. I would say it depends a little on your source water, if it's too soft mollies are going to have a bad time. I would add zebra danios as easy to keep and feed beginner fish, they can handle a pretty wide range of parameters. Maybe white clouds and cherry barbs too? You'll definitely have enough fish waste to cycle a tank using goldfish but they'll grow and live a very long time and are very much not disposable fish. I agree they are a bad beginner fish because they get so big and live so long; if you succeed with them and you don't want to get rid of them you'll need to keep finding them homes as they grow (or just get a big pond in your yard). At extremes they can live 30 years and grow to well over a foot long unless you've got one of the stunted fancy varieties; and even those will grow to be huge. My local fish store has a display oranda which is easily bigger than my two fists put together. Must be getting close to ten inches in size and he is built like a brick. That's not to say keeping goldfish is a mistake; I think they have good personalities and can be entertaining pets. It's just that they'll chew and uproot your plants, they like it colder than tropical fish so they don't mix well with other popular fish - it all comes down to what you are looking for as a fishkeeper.
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Jul 26, 2018 16:21
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Stoca Zola posted:I would say it depends a little on your source water, if it's too soft mollies are going to have a bad time. I would add zebra danios as easy to keep and feed beginner fish, they can handle a pretty wide range of parameters. Maybe white clouds and cherry barbs too? Yeah, I had two shubies in a 30. The only thing they didn't touch was the old anubias I had that was well rooted into the substrate. Even the pothos got chewed on. And the filters got gunked up within a week or so. They were great fish and had lots of personality, but holy jesus were they messy assholes
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Jul 26, 2018 18:40
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Hey all- just curious, have any of you ever had any issues with Flourish Excel killing fish? I started using it recently (~a week ago) and my betta passed away today, although she had seemed somewhat lethargic over the past few days and slightly bloated so I assume the excel dose was just the final straw. She was still moving around and active this morning, I did a water change and didn’t re-dose, left for a few hours, and when I came back she was dead. (10 gal tank, tetras and shrimp seem okay). I’m pretty bummed and I hope it wasn’t a mistake I made, but if so then I can add it to the very long list of “things not to do with your next tank”.
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Jul 26, 2018 23:33
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I don't actually mind goldfish being some extra work. Like I wasn't really looking for a "fish for dummies" easy fish. I want to learn how to do this so I can care for other fish and tanks in the future. So like, if the goldfish are some extra work and taking care of them teaches me lessons and instills habits on me that make the other stuff easier than I think that's kind of what I'm looking for. I learn by throwing myself into things. My big concerns are really (a) animals dying because of my own carelessness or disregard, even 50 cent goldfish grown to feed other animals, (b) what I do with the goldfish if they live and I want to get other fish but that's a long term thing, and (c) the tiny $10 anubias plant I have in my tank that seemed like it was starting to get bigger, but it was only $10. I'm starting to pick up on "personalities". There's one little guy who is always keeping to himself and hiding in one of the plastic plants. He's becoming my favorite.
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Jul 26, 2018 23:43
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If this attachment works this is pretty much textbook how not to keep goldfish, but they are still going after 6 months, water looks clean, fish look healthy enough. A bit better than the last goldfish tank I saw at work (no filter, overfeeding, no water changes).
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Jul 27, 2018 08:18
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Stoca Zola posted:If this attachment works this is pretty much textbook how not to keep goldfish, but they are still going after 6 months, water looks clean, fish look healthy enough. A bit better than the last goldfish tank I saw at work (no filter, overfeeding, no water changes). Looks clean and is clean are two different things though. I would imagine they do a full water change once a week or something. My folks used to do that with a goldfish they kept in a fishbowl long ago. Complete cleanout every week and topping the water off all the time because the cats would drink out of it. STAC Goat posted:I don't actually mind goldfish being some extra work. Like I wasn't really looking for a "fish for dummies" easy fish. I want to learn how to do this so I can care for other fish and tanks in the future. So like, if the goldfish are some extra work and taking care of them teaches me lessons and instills habits on me that make the other stuff easier than I think that's kind of what I'm looking for. I learn by throwing myself into things. Like I said it likely wasn't your doing, just what happens with those types of fish. Kind of like back when you could win fish from a carnival. For (b), unless you get really aggressive fish they could likely co-exist just fine. You'll likely have to worry about space first. Everything I've read (and my own personal experience) says goldfish tend to leave Anubias alone. Just give it some light and it should do fine with your poop machines to give it food
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Jul 27, 2018 10:39
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Stoca Zola posted:If this attachment works this is pretty much textbook how not to keep goldfish, but they are still going after 6 months, water looks clean, fish look healthy enough. A bit better than the last goldfish tank I saw at work (no filter, overfeeding, no water changes). The ten year old goldfish we have used to be kept in a smaller tank in my partner's home. It shared with three others and got 100% water changes (and quite often without treatment). A healthy goldfish is so incredibly robust. Meanwhile, I'm having to be extra careful in this big tank because two of the goldfish in it are incredibly sensitive.
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Jul 27, 2018 10:57
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Stoca Zola posted:If this attachment works this is pretty much textbook how not to keep goldfish, but they are still going after 6 months, water looks clean, fish look healthy enough. A bit better than the last goldfish tank I saw at work (no filter, overfeeding, no water changes).
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Jul 27, 2018 11:30
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Baby Endlers are so freaking tiny, y'all!
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Jul 27, 2018 16:45
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This heat wave is getting harder and harder to deal with. Came back from work to discover the tank was at 25.7 C, so I had to do an immediate water change. I'm going to have to start getting up early so I can do mini water changes before work and keep that down. Surprisingly, the fish don't even seem to care too much. They're foraging away, or destroying the plants as usual. No repeat gasping either, so even the oxygen levels are fine. That could have easily went much worse.
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Jul 27, 2018 17:57
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CrashScreen posted:This heat wave is getting harder and harder to deal with. Came back from work to discover the tank was at 25.7 C, so I had to do an immediate water change. I'm going to have to start getting up early so I can do mini water changes before work and keep that down. Surprisingly, the fish don't even seem to care too much. They're foraging away, or destroying the plants as usual. No repeat gasping either, so even the oxygen levels are fine. That could have easily went much worse. Are you keeping cold water fish? 25.7c is barely on the warm side of ideal range, definitely not high enough to warrant an emergency water change. All of my tanks are at higher temps than that year round. I wouldn't worry until it's consistently staying around 28-29.
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Jul 27, 2018 18:06
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Agreed, if your fish are fine and your tank is changing temperature fairly slowly, there is no point stressing out. Even if it does get hotter you can add aeration to keep the water moving and well oxygenated; it's what you do when you run a tank hot to treat ich and it works reasonably well - you don't need to change in colder water. You usually have a fair bit of warning when parameters start drifting out of range and it will show in the behaviour of your fish.
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Jul 27, 2018 18:49
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Does it mean anything if periodically all my fish go to the top of the tank and start sucking at the surface? Is it possible they're struggling to breath or something? That's my concern but they all seem to do it together across the whole tank, which strikes me as odd. Especially since one of them is kind of a loner but he still goes up there at the same time. They tend to go for edges so maybe they're going for food or algae stuck on the edges? The internet suggests that chlorine in tap water could damage their gills and cause breathing problems that send them up there. But I use water conditioner and they only do it sometimes. Like they do it often enough that I notice but not often enough that it seems like they really can't breath underwater. And again, it seems odd that they'd all suffer breathing problems at the same times. Unless like my tank is getting depleted of oxygen at times that send them all to the top? STAC Goat fucked around with this message at 20:05 on Jul 28, 2018 |
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Jul 28, 2018 20:02
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Do you feed them so they have to come up to the surface to feed? I remember my mollies occasionally all coming to the top on rare occasions that was spurred on because one thought there was food up there and the rest followed. They'd all kinda nip at the frogbit and once it was established it wasn't food they'd all calm down
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Jul 28, 2018 21:09
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