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SRM posted:From Fallout Hobbies unfortunately, who after ordering came out in support of that lovely Manhammer model. I’ll need to find a different decal maker if I ever run out. What’s that all about? Sounds like terrible nerd poo poo.  And your knights are dope as hell man. I can’t wait to get back to painting now that my dumb broken wrist is nearly healed.
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Jul 31, 2018 03:16
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Fyrbrand posted:What’s that all about? Sounds like terrible nerd poo poo. We talk about it on Badcast 31 but there ain’t no drama like nerd drama. And thanks, as someone who also has garbo wrists I can sympathize.
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Jul 31, 2018 03:20
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SRM posted:We talk about it on Badcast 31 but there ain’t no drama like nerd drama. I don’t even 40k anymore but I mashed subscribe so hard
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Jul 31, 2018 03:41
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Hi, today I painted some Grey Knights because Kill Team has its hooks in me. Also these are garbage, non-staged, kinda okay-ly lit phone photos so sorry if they look like rear end but I'm kinda happy with how these two came out.    For having never painted power armor and dealing with the highlighting that comes with, I'm pretty happy with these two. Now to finish the other 4 I have readied.
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Jul 31, 2018 04:11
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Trying to do OSL for the first time on a 1/72 robed model was a terrible mistake.
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Jul 31, 2018 04:32
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 Kill team is the greatest hobby excuse ever. Black Templars counts as Deathwatch for Kill Team.
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Jul 31, 2018 04:51
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Red Herring posted:
hell yes
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Jul 31, 2018 05:19
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:Who do you guys like for custom white decals since Fallout is poo? I bought a sheet from Bedlam Creations, they're gorgeous, but I haven't tried applying one yet. The guy there was super quick to respond to my request and turned around my order in like 10 days, but I did all the hard work and gave him a fully formatted illustrator file. So it might take longer (and cost more) if you don't do all the heavy lifting ahead of time. The price was high, almost twice what Fallout charges, but the sheet is more than twice as big (8"x13" as opposed to 8.5'x5.5') and I didn't have to give money to a jerk. Unless they fall apart when I try to apply them I give them 5/5 kickin rad orks.  
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Jul 31, 2018 05:22
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What do the kids paint their plasma coils on their hellblasters these days? I want a cool red or orange color that sort of glows and complements the mephiston red on my blood angel armor. Enlighten me goons.
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Jul 31, 2018 08:53
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I feel like a green would work better against red
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Jul 31, 2018 09:52
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Bloody Hedgehog posted:Holding up isn't really an issue, since if your cleaning your airbrush at the end of the day, you're going to need to reapply the Chap-Stick/Beeswax after cleaning anyways. Meh, in the long run, it's not like the beeswax was any more expensive or anything. I'm not gonna sweat it. And my wax will make my airbrush smell like sweetest honey. The atomized paint will make honeybees weep in glorious rapture. It will be so tempting that crafty bears will flock from miles around and attempt to steal my honey brush.
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Jul 31, 2018 13:36
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Bucnasti posted:I bought a sheet from Bedlam Creations, they're gorgeous, but I haven't tried applying one yet. The guy there was super quick to respond to my request and turned around my order in like 10 days, but I did all the hard work and gave him a fully formatted illustrator file. So it might take longer (and cost more) if you don't do all the heavy lifting ahead of time. Thanks!
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Jul 31, 2018 13:50
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Red Herring posted:
These are gorgeous, looking forward to seeing more.
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Jul 31, 2018 14:41
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 So I got 2 of these I'm going to paint up in different colors to be likhoradka (Slavic disease creatures), and I'm not sure if I should paint just normally, or becayuse they are translucent I should do something special. I asusme if I just paint as normal that will cover the translucence, and that's fine I guess, though it feels like a waste I guess. if I paint in really thin layers will that keep the translucence? Do I need something special?
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Jul 31, 2018 19:08
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 Ignoring the yellow, what is the best wash to hit this with? Black or blue or something else? The gray parts will be painted silver and washed black.
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Jul 31, 2018 19:14
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Cat Face Joe posted:
Probably wouldn't use neat black, maybe blue in a couple of coats, or blue with a drop of black, or maybe even purple but that might make it too inky looking.
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Jul 31, 2018 19:26
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Foolster41 posted:
If you want to keep any form of transparency you'll need to stick to just using washes and glazes. Paints will be too opaque. You could hit them with green / black / blue wash to bring out the details, I'd probably stop at that though.
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Jul 31, 2018 22:00
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I was just thinking about how to speed up my painting. Is there any reason in principle why I can’t find a primer that’s the same colour as Games Workshop’s Ceramic White and use that instead drybrushing my models with Ceramic White every time? Is there something special about base paints vs. primers?
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Jul 31, 2018 22:42
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Entropy238 posted:I was just thinking about how to speed up my painting. Primer is required to give the model 'bite' for paint to hold onto. Plenty of white primers out there though - https://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/Corax-White-Spray-Global Does it specifically have to be Ceramite White, or do you just want a white primer? Army Painter probably gets better reviews though - https://shop.thearmypainter.com/products.php?ProductGroupId=15 Or Krylon or Halfords in the UK. Base paints are just GW's name for thick paints designed to go on before layer paints, they don't do anything special. You can go straight to inks/washes on top of a white basecoat for example (ghosts).
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Jul 31, 2018 23:26
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AFAIK Corax White is slightly off-white, while Ceramite White is GW's "pure" white basecoat, so if you want to imitate the Ceramite White, grabbing a spray can in pure, flat white might be better.
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Aug 1, 2018 02:01
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Emy posted:AFAIK Corax White is slightly off-white, while Ceramite White is GW's "pure" white basecoat, so if you want to imitate the Ceramite White, grabbing a spray can in pure, flat white might be better. Yeah corax white is close to Ulthuan Grey.
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Aug 1, 2018 02:05
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General Olloth posted:Yeah corax white is close to Ulthuan Grey. Isn't this typically an advantage? Given that starting with a grey gives you something to highlight up from
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Aug 1, 2018 02:22
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Speckled Jim posted:Isn't this typically an advantage? Given that starting with a grey gives you something to highlight up from Yes, actually, and is most likely why it is off white in the first place.
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Aug 1, 2018 04:50
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Yeah, the GW scheme is Ulthuan Grey with Drakenhof Nightshade (blue) wash and white highlights for a cool white, and Rakarth Flesh washed with Seraphim Sepia (plus white highlights) for a warm white. I typically need both for most of my models as a Dark Angels player; warm white for robes & parchment and a cool white for details on armor and vehicles.
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Aug 1, 2018 05:03
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Zark the Damned posted:If you want to keep any form of transparency you'll need to stick to just using washes and glazes. Paints will be too opaque. You could hit them with green / black / blue wash to bring out the details, I'd probably stop at that though. The big problem with the transparent bones is that washes don't stick to them very well on their own. You can use a clear matte varnish first to help them stick, then wash with green, blue, yellow or even purple. They also look really cool if you give them a light drybrushing, with a lighter color.
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Aug 1, 2018 05:05
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 Third body done. Do I put blood splatter on the chainsword?
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Aug 1, 2018 10:48
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Entropy238 posted:I was just thinking about how to speed up my painting. Try GW's Corax White spray. It's very slightly off-white grey, identical to Ulthuan Grey. It's what you're meant to use to basecoat the white armour on things like Apothecary armour. If you're wanting to paint things white, you don't want to start with a pure white basecoat like Ceramite White because it doesn't leave you any room to go brighter for the highlights. Instead, go very slightly darker (greyer) with something like Ulthuan Grey/Corax White and then highlight with a pure white layer paint like White Scar. Edit: If you use one of the GW sprays, you don't need a separate undercoat. Those sprays have a bonding agent in them, like any other primer, or so I was told earlier in this thread. Gunder fucked around with this message at 11:37 on Aug 1, 2018 |
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Aug 1, 2018 11:13
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Red Herring posted:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BLEuqHcOpJw
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Aug 1, 2018 12:14
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Question regarding removing glued legs from a base. I realized that I want to prime the bases after I make some modifications / work on them but I've got glorious pairs of painted necron legs resting upon them after melding plastics together. What's the best way to remove said beautiful legs without screwing up the model?
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Aug 1, 2018 18:00
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If you used plastic glue your option is pretty much to cut between them or around and trash the base.
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Aug 1, 2018 18:06
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Great Unclean One incoming:     Took a bloody long time, but then I really wanted something I could dip in and out of in my spare time so it worked out OK for that Much more fun to paint once I'd got past the basic skin tone, and I'm pleased overall Not my neatest work, but then it's nurgle innit
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Aug 1, 2018 19:28
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That looks amazing. loving hell.
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Aug 1, 2018 19:32
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Skarsnik posted:Great Unclean One incoming: Beautiful and Ugly. Bugly? The little guy with the cloak and sword looks so happy 
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Aug 1, 2018 20:14
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richyp posted:Probably wouldn't use neat black, maybe blue in a couple of coats, or blue with a drop of black, or maybe even purple but that might make it too inky looking. I believe I will try the blue/black mix.
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Aug 1, 2018 20:22
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 What is a good spray primer that is more or less the same color as WW2 Soviet uniforms, or slightly lighter, since I'll be using washes? I'll be painting a lot of these fuckers and if I could skip the basecoat step that'd be just fine.
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Aug 1, 2018 23:33
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Geisladisk posted:
While not a primer, you could get away with using one of Tamiyas sprays. They've got a few that could match that color. https://www.tamiyausa.com/articles/ln/72/TS-chart.pdf
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Aug 2, 2018 00:06
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Geisladisk posted:
While I'm sure there is at least one or two vallejo colours that will match that you could also try the Russian Uniform spray from The Plastic Soldier company. http://theplasticsoldiercompany.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=98_100&products_id=529 Oh, missed you were in fact asking for a spray primer. 
Cooked Auto fucked around with this message at 00:09 on Aug 2, 2018 |
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Aug 2, 2018 00:06
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Geisladisk posted:
Army Painter Desert Yellow is in the general ballpark of what you want, and their primer is specifically formulated to be primer/basecoat in one.
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Aug 2, 2018 00:39
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I have been too burned out to paint for a few months after graduation but I have finally gotten around to it, currently missing my nice lighting setup but I can deal with it for now.
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Aug 2, 2018 01:44
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Gunder posted:That looks amazing. loving hell. richyp posted:Beautiful and Ugly. Bugly? Thank you both 
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Aug 2, 2018 02:06
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