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Geisladisk posted:
Krylon ultra-flat camouflage Sand works pretty well, too.
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Aug 2, 2018 15:11
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Is there a place a could buy tiny sunglasses for my orcs to wear?
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Aug 2, 2018 15:21
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How do you thin epoxy putty, specifically Kneadatite?
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Aug 2, 2018 15:30
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Maybe try working in a drop of a solvent? Acetone may work, and it won't gently caress your skin up.
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Aug 2, 2018 15:59
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Thanks, I'll try that out. Been stripping models like crazy so I've got plenty.
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Aug 2, 2018 17:12
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Harvey Mantaco posted:Is there a place a could buy tiny sunglasses for my orcs to wear? Almost. https://victoriaminiatures.com/collections/backpacks-pouches-and-gear/products/gas-mask-and-goggles-sprue-metal Goggles, not sunglasses; but very close especially if you trimmed the straps down.
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Aug 2, 2018 19:15
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moths posted:Krylon ultra-flat camouflage Sand works pretty well, too. I was going to say this. I'm using it for my KT buildings.
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Aug 2, 2018 20:18
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I haven't gotten around to painting the orcs or Guardians I got yet (I still need to get a new Xacto knife to do the moldline removal, and my laziness has gotten in the way of doing that), but I tested the green, brown, and flesh tone paints from the Dungeon Painter kit on this little figure I found in a old model box.  This was another model that I primed by brush, which might be why it looks so iffy. I've had it sitting around for a while. Max Wilco fucked around with this message at 22:58 on Aug 2, 2018 |
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Aug 2, 2018 22:55
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Indolent Bastard posted:Almost. I think I'll make a small mold and press some out of all this green stuff I have lying around.
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Aug 2, 2018 23:50
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Click for big versio of the current army photo:
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Aug 3, 2018 04:23
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Fresh paints in today from that TAP sale so I'm assembling a chart of them. Initial thoughts on some of the new arrivals, though I know a lot of these are pretty old paints at this point so it's not exactly cutting edge: TAP Rough Iron has a very red hue, even to someone red/green colourblind. It's not quite a full rust but it's definitely a very raw, semi-oxidized base. A little bit prone to 'glitterization'. Compared to Mr. Hobby Burnt Iron it's much rustier in appearance, and I think it's best use is going to be vehicles or terrain where raw iron is in play or orcs etc. For use as a base coat for armour steels (except, perhaps, low grade chainmails and undead/etc armour) I'd still go with Burnt Iron. TAP Gun Metal is much more subdued than VGC Gun Metal. VGCs high shine factor has been an annoyance of mine for a while so I think TAP edges it out for the intended use of gun barrels and other 'dull' steels. Nice coverage, not too prone to glitterization. TAP Greedy Gold is a one-note gold that does not compare to X-12 Tamiya Gold Leaf. However, it needs less effort to evenly mix and unevenly mixed X-12 has both silver and gold streaks (which can be great for creating effects, but a pain if you didn't mean to) and it has a higher gloss finish.
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Aug 3, 2018 05:42
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Double postin'. Have to do some tests on models still, but current thoughts on the new yellow arrivals: TAP Daemonic Yellow is perfectly serviceable and a little lighter as a yellow than XF-3 and TAP Babe Blonde. It had quite reasonable coverage even in the first use from the bottle (for some reason I find TAP doesn't mix smoothly despite agitation for several minutes, and the first few droppers are always very high medium before it evens out) so it's solid. I still prefer XF-3 for smoothness but TAPDY is fine. TAP Moon Dust is, well, dusty. It's still very much a pale yellow rather than a beige however, at least to my eye, and I think it might also make an excellent base for fabric-hue glazes on linen cloaks etc for miniatures. TAP Poison Cloud is really nice, for a slightly brown hued orange-ish yellow. Highlighted with a suitably 'clean' yellow I think it might work really well as a base layer for yellow coats/armour as it's both got enough brown in the mix to work as a shade where not highlighted and enough of a yellow hue to not cause the perpetual frustration of poor yellow coverage over it. Of the others that came in, TAP matt black is nothing special, and more of a satin finish. Tamiya XF-1 has a much better flat finish. I prefer XF-1 but TAPMB would do in a pinch, especially compared to VGC negro/black, which is very glossy. TAP Leather brown is very close to MSP intense brown but seems to have better pigmentation.
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Aug 3, 2018 12:34
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Rough Iron is a darker version of VGC Tinny Tin and pretty comparable to P3's Deathless Metal. The best description for the color I'd say is like black ballpoint pen ink where it has a slight brownish tint to it. Edit: Your description of Poisonous Cloud sounds... off. It's chartreuse. darnon fucked around with this message at 12:44 on Aug 3, 2018 |
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Aug 3, 2018 12:36
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That would be the colourblindness coming out.
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Aug 3, 2018 13:13
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Just getting into painting after buying a bunch of those Nolzur's d&d and pathfinder minis, and wondering the best way to get a nice clear color for the spell effects that some of them have. I googled and found some suggestions that say to use inks but having some trouble finding a yellow one for healing effects. Should I just really thin out the paint that I have?
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Aug 3, 2018 14:04
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Yellows are fairly translucent so you might be able to get away with thinning it, but Reaper makes a Clear series line intended for their transparent Bones that includes a yellow. Minitaire Ghost Tint is also an option. If you want an ink Vallejo Game Color or P3 Yellow Ink.
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Aug 3, 2018 14:17
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Oh I didn't even see that line of Clear Reaper paints, they have those at the game store by my work. Thanks for the heads up.
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Aug 3, 2018 14:46
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Alright, thread. I read through the OP, and I'm still absurdly daunted by both the volume of information and the depth, but this has always seemed like a really fun thing to try and take up. Since I know I'm going to absolutely suck and gently caress everything up woefully the first several dozen times I try this, do you have any suggestions for a "dip my toes in" essential start up set? And also, is there somewhere I can get some cheap miniatures that aren't too wildly complex? I'd prefer fantasy as I play D&D with friends and I think a fun gift for everyone would be to eventually make and paint miniatures of their characters. (Probably using heroforge or something for the actual miniature). Any recommendations?
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Aug 3, 2018 16:14
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Reaper Bones and the aforementioned Nolzur's. Just paint, everyone starts out like poo poo. Hell, I've been doing it for years and I'm still poo poo. It's fine.
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Aug 3, 2018 16:19
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Saxophone posted:Alright, thread. I read through the OP, and I'm still absurdly daunted by both the volume of information and the depth, but this has always seemed like a really fun thing to try and take up. Grab some Bones and a Reaper paint set, and go to town.
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Aug 3, 2018 16:32
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Saxophone posted:Alright, thread. I read through the OP, and I'm still absurdly daunted by both the volume of information and the depth, but this has always seemed like a really fun thing to try and take up. A few years back I'd have a list of stuff for you. Now my advice is just paint, post results and paint more.
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Aug 3, 2018 16:43
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richyp posted:A few years back I'd have a list of stuff for you. Now my advice is just paint, post results and paint more. Yeah, these threads really are great for advice on how to improve 
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Aug 3, 2018 16:46
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Saxophone posted:Alright, thread. I read through the OP, and I'm still absurdly daunted by both the volume of information and the depth, but this has always seemed like a really fun thing to try and take up. Absolute startup list: Knife/Clippers(Taking dudes off the molds) Glue(super, or plastic) a brush(starter brush is OK for 90% of stuff) paint(you can get a start set, the P3 ones are pretty good values, the Citadel getting started sets aren't super values but you get everything, or pick a couple colours will look good on your first models) Pallet (old plate, ceramic tile, plastic lid) Wash, black(then brown, or base colour) Now you can do basic dudes. Techniques to learn early: Paint thinning (if you use citadel paints, you have to, other brands may be thin enough to go on straight, but not super recommended) using a wash Drybrushing Clean-up If you get ok at those, you are 75% of the way there. After a couple, pick a new technique you think looks cool, such as: Wet pallet edge highlighting Basing Blending Good metals Gems/glass Freehand Transfers Wood Where to get models? Reapers bones are cheap and easy to get to practice on Many hobby shops have start here kits. Space Marines are every 40k players "my first" model for a reason! Necrons and bony skeletons are easy to paint up. Get a simple beast like a worm or something, shouldn't take too long to practice simple techniques with that. Show it off and ask for CnC Team_q fucked around with this message at 17:19 on Aug 3, 2018 |
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Aug 3, 2018 16:59
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Team_q posted:Good words Thanks! I'm gonna drop into the local gaming store tomorrow and see what they have. I'm in St. Louis, so Miniature Mart is also an option to just drop into
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Aug 3, 2018 17:04
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If they have them there, I really can't recommend the Tamiya 3-brush set enough. They're usually around 8USD where I am, and while they aren't excellent quality, they're my go-to workhorse brushes even now. They're cheap enough to replace if you gently caress them, decent quality if you look after them, and while you won't have the finest detail at your fingertips with them, you don't need that to start. You get a no. 3 flat (ideal for basecoats etc and drybrushing on larger pieces once worn down), a no. 1 flat (my go-to brush for, well, most everything including block colours in 1/72 scale), and a 87017 standard pointed, which can do quite fine detail despite its overall large size.
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Aug 3, 2018 17:21
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For priming models, gw and offbrand spray primer is kinda pricey here, are the paints I can get at costco or whatever that are the same thing or is the something special about these paints? My fridge broke. It's a poor month :[
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Aug 3, 2018 18:19
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Harvey Mantaco posted:For priming models, gw and offbrand spray primer is kinda pricey here, are the paints I can get at costco or whatever that are the same thing or is the something special about these paints? I spray prime with either Krylon or that Rustoleum Painter's Touch - the can that has the big "2X COVERAGE" on the label - just fine.
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Aug 3, 2018 18:22
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Harvey Mantaco posted:For priming models, gw and offbrand spray primer is kinda pricey here, are the paints I can get at costco or whatever that are the same thing or is the something special about these paints? I was actually wondering if I should just go with cheapo acrylic paints/primer at first and once I get a feel for what I'm doing graduate to better paints that are pricier. Cuz 50 cent acrylics sure do feel better than 5 dollar tint pots. So glomming onto his question.
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Aug 3, 2018 18:22
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Harvey Mantaco posted:For priming models, gw and offbrand spray primer is kinda pricey here, are the paints I can get at costco or whatever that are the same thing or is the something special about these paints? Yeah, a can of krylon primer from home depot or whatever works fine and costs about $4. As with any primer, you just have to be careful about the temp and humidity to avoid flaky coats. One caveat: if you are painting reaper bones models then you can have some issues with priming them where the primer never cures properly and stays tacky to the touch. In the past I've gotten around this by just ignoring the tackiness and slapping additional coats of paint on top and it seemed to work fine, but time will tell if it flakes easier or whatever. Saxophone posted:I was actually wondering if I should just go with cheapo acrylic paints/primer at first and once I get a feel for what I'm doing graduate to better paints that are pricier. Cuz 50 cent acrylics sure do feel better than 5 dollar tint pots. There's a pretty significant difference in quality between the 50 cent acrylics and actual miniature paints. The only case where I think it would make sense to use the cheap stuff is if you just want to figure out if you enjoy the act of painting minis and don't care what the outcome looks like. Even then, cheap acrylics will behave differently (the pigment is coarser, meaning that they will obscure detail and cover less uniformly) so you're process is going to take longer and be more frustrating. If you really want to start on a tight budget then just pick up one of the $30 reaper learn to paint kits which will have all the basics you need to figure out whether you like the hobby or not. Mikey Purp fucked around with this message at 19:01 on Aug 3, 2018 |
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Aug 3, 2018 18:59
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Gotcha, that's not too bad of an entry price point. Thanks! I thought maybe something like that might be the case, but figured it never hurts to ask goons dumb questions.
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Aug 3, 2018 19:07
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For Bones just wash the model and paint the base coat directly on with no thinning.
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Aug 3, 2018 19:18
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Does anybody have any experience using Woodland Scenics water stuff?
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Aug 3, 2018 19:21
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Craft paints are a fantastic resource with some limitations. About half of what I use are craft, with the other half being a mix of GW, Vallejo, PP, etc. The darker paints are generally problem free. Generally prime white or zenithal! Lighter paints will not give as good coverage as dark unless 1) it's over a white undercoat, or 2) you use a layer of white as your "first thin coat." Metallics are a mixed bag. Some are amazing, others are crap. Thin your paints. This is always good advice, but it's absolutely mandatory with craft paints. Additionally, check your bottles before you buy them. Some craft paints are intended for outdoor projects like birdhouses. Others promise a high gloss finish. There's a lot of weird options to play with, and discovering how they work is part of the fun. Some of the newer suff is seriously fun to play with. Martha Stewart makes gel watercolors that can dilute into a cool semi-wash, or easily drybrush like the Citadel Dry range. The gimmick paints aren't always bad. E: They're not generally encouraged for beginners, but once you get the basics down there's nothing wrong with using craft paints. moths fucked around with this message at 19:31 on Aug 3, 2018 |
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Aug 3, 2018 19:23
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Saxophone posted:Gotcha, that's not too bad of an entry price point. Thanks! I thought maybe something like that might be the case, but figured it never hurts to ask goons dumb questions. Yeah, here's the kit I was talking about. I actually started with the level 2 kit and found it totally doable for a complete novice. Fair warning: these kits are really cheap and easy entries into the hobby, but if you have fun with them you will inevitably accumulate thousands of dollars worth of paint and unpainted minis within 6 months.
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Aug 3, 2018 19:37
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Reaper makes some really fun colors, too. I just picked up some DUNGEON SLIME that's like a super pale neon green. I can't wait to find a use for it.
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Aug 3, 2018 19:43
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Loomer posted:Fresh paints in today from that TAP sale so I'm assembling a chart of them. Initial thoughts on some of the new arrivals, though I know a lot of these are pretty old paints at this point so it's not exactly cutting edge: As someone who uses a lot of TAP paints and their metallics a lot: I liken Rough Iron to an un-seasoned cast iron. Hitting it with a green wash kills the red and gives it some good age/tarnish/not-rust darkening. Bright Gold is also pretty anemic. Haven't tried gun metal yet, but Shining Silver and True Copper are both pretty good.
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Aug 3, 2018 21:41
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In addition to a hobby knife to remove moldlines, I've also seen people use files to help smooth down cut areas. What kind of files would I want to get?
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Aug 3, 2018 21:55
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Sanding needles are good for plastics. Any of the Tamiya file sets are good, you just gotta make sure they're small enough.
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Aug 3, 2018 22:14
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These https://www.harborfreight.com/12-piece-precision-needle-file-set-4614.html
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Aug 3, 2018 22:14
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| # ? May 27, 2024 04:34 |
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Team_q posted:Glue(super, or plastic)
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Aug 3, 2018 22:52
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