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cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

Disgruntled Bovine posted:

Also if it is ever lost or stolen you have to report it to the Starfleet Engineering Quartermaster.

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His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
Went to the junkyard today, brought home some aluminum cut offs, price was 3€/kg, not sure if it's a bad or good price.







Managed to ID these as 4404 steel:

Slung Blade
Jul 11, 2002

IN STEEL WE TRUST

Correct me if I'm wrong but it looks like 4404 = 316 stainless?

I probably would have grabbed a handful if they're selling cheap.

Looks like a rad yard, wish I had one if those nearby that would let me in.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
Yeah I don't know the price, usually scrap steel is less than a euro per kg. But I can always go back some day. And based on my googling 4404=316 as well.

mekilljoydammit
Jan 28, 2016

Me have motors that scream to 10,000rpm. Me have more cars than Pick and Pull

extreme_accordion posted:

This is going on in my area in the coming weeks. http://midwestfirefest.com/
Looks to be pretty cool - may have to go and check it out with the family if we aren't already busy.

Want to thank you again for posting about this - went today, got a lot of ideas. Also this guy's stuff was just beautiful in person: http://www.schroederknifeworks.com/gallery/

McSpergin
Sep 10, 2013

I do a bit of homebrewing and use a pressure fermenter with a brass spunding (pressure relief) valve.

Basically the valve I got has been sitting in storage and started to crust up and get all gross, and I'd recently ordered a stainless steel connector for it, after deciding the brass looked poo poo (also the spring in the relief was rusty.

I figured out that a Swagelok nut is the same thread as the disconnect (MFL/FFL pair), and I wanted to run all the gear in BSP as NPT is hard to find down under in Australia.

So I took a 1/4" hex plug, bored a hole on the lathe to 1/4", then machined up a jig to hold it all together, and welded them together. Works an absolute treat!

bits

extreme_accordion
Apr 9, 2009

mekilljoydammit posted:

Want to thank you again for posting about this - went today, got a lot of ideas. Also this guy's stuff was just beautiful in person: http://www.schroederknifeworks.com/gallery/

I never got to, but a family member went. The photos I saw looked amazing.
I decided to work on making my garage all weekend. It's still a mess but I have benches now.
Thanks for the knife link - I have a coworker who just started forging his own knives so I sent it to him!

extreme_accordion fucked around with this message at 19:10 on Jul 31, 2018

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

Finally got our laser cutter up and running. This is cutting 1/8" A2, holding a tolerance of +/-. 001". It's nuts.

Bonus points if you can guess what the parts are for.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XGjNWj3jHuM

Samuel L. Hacksaw
Mar 26, 2007

Never Stop Posting

A Proper Uppercut posted:

Finally got our laser cutter up and running. This is cutting 1/8" A2, holding a tolerance of +/-. 001". It's nuts.

Bonus points if you can guess what the parts are for.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XGjNWj3jHuM

Looks like a bash plate for a doorhandle.

One Legged Ninja
Sep 19, 2007
Feared by shoe salesmen. Defeated by chest-high walls.
Fun Shoe
I can't tell the scale, but 1/8" A2 with that shape looks like plane iron blanks.

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

One Legged Ninja posted:

I can't tell the scale, but 1/8" A2 with that shape looks like plane iron blanks.

Bingo.

They're for a maker of high end hand woodworking tools.

Ambrose Burnside
Aug 30, 2007

pensive
No heat-affect issues cutting A2 with a laser vs. the usual waterjet for heat-treatable stuff?

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

Ambrose Burnside posted:

No heat-affect issues cutting A2 with a laser vs. the usual waterjet for heat-treatable stuff?

You can if you use oxygen as an assist gas, it'll heat treat the edges. We're cutting with nitrogen so it keeps everything nice and cool.

We also have waterjets and this thing is so much faster and more accurate. Just can't go as thick.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib

A Proper Uppercut posted:

You can if you use oxygen as an assist gas, it'll heat treat the edges. We're cutting with nitrogen so it keeps everything nice and cool.

We also have waterjets and this thing is so much faster and more accurate. Just can't go as thick.

Have you tried it on SS? :reasons:

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

sharkytm posted:

Have you tried it on SS? :reasons:

Not yet, but it can definitely cut stainless.

Rotten Cookies
Nov 11, 2008

gosh! i like both the islanders and the rangers!!! :^)

We got a plate marker for the CNC plasma, and the first thing I made is so bad and dumb. I'm such a little boy. Mine on top obv

Super Waffle
Sep 25, 2007

I'm a hermaphrodite and my parents (40K nerds) named me Slaanesh, THANKS MOM

Rotten Cookies posted:

We got a plate marker for the CNC plasma, and the first thing I made is so bad and dumb. I'm such a little boy. Mine on top obv



lomarf

how much?

M_Gargantua
Oct 16, 2006

STOMP'N ON INTO THE POWERLINES

Exciting Lemon
Pretend it was intentional? Or is that the joke?

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

M_Gargantua posted:

Pretend it was intentional? Or is that the joke?

it is a ruler that suggests the measured object is 10% larger than it really is

say the name "Johnson & Largers" out loud

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

on a related note, I have an architect's tape measure that is graduated in units of 3/8". So '1' on the scale is 3/8", '2' is 3/4", and so on up the line.

3/8" = 9.53mm

it's really fun to give that scale to the foreign exchange students when they forget their own tools

Rapulum_Dei
Sep 7, 2009

Sagebrush posted:

it is a ruler that suggests the measured object is 10% larger than it really is

say the name "Johnson & Largers" out loud

A subsidiary of Cockford Ollie?

Mudfly
Jun 10, 2012
I'd like a dedicated vertical metal bandsaw. Only issue is, here in Australia they start at our local retailer for 3.7k. Is this the case in the states as well?

Would converting a wood bandsaw (~$500 to 1k on our craigslist) to run slower be a bad idea? I was thinking 1/10th the speed = 10 times the force, maybe the wood one wouldn't like it. Though the big ones are for cutting huge bits of hardwood and the like.

cakesmith handyman
Jul 22, 2007

Pip-Pip old chap! Last one in is a rotten egg what what.

If it's a pulley drive look up a bandsaw speed chart and see if it's feasible to slow a wood bandsaw down that far with new pulleys.

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


cakesmith handyman posted:

If it's a pulley drive look up a bandsaw speed chart and see if it's feasible to slow a wood bandsaw down that far with new pulleys.

What's your stock diameter and such? Only aluminum or steel too?

The slowest wood bandsaws are still on the high side SFPM of aluminum. Which will be way too high for steels.

Power hacksaws were once a thing. We've got one sitting in storage. Ebay AU looks to have a decent quantity of hobbyist sized poo poo or ridiculously oversized industrial stuff. I'm sure the $700 swivel head Indian bandsaw will cut flat within 8mm or so...


(hacksaw for comparison, they're kind of cool)



edit : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KxzCivVuUF4

Not ideal, doesn't lift on the back stroke, but you get the idea.

Yooper fucked around with this message at 13:13 on Aug 5, 2018

Mudfly
Jun 10, 2012
Some of the older larger vertical wood bandsaws have pretty exposed pulleys, much like older lathes. It wouldn't be very hard to make up a weldment with a couple more pulleys to get whatever reduction you needed. The concern I had was the additional cutting forces the pulleys actually holding the blade might take running so slowly at the same hp.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


I don’t know how wide of a blade you need to run to cut what you need to cut, but smaller wood bandsaws (what I would expect to find in the $500-1000 range) don’t usually have stiff enough frames to properly tension a 3/4”+ blade. I don’t have much experience cutting metal on a bandsaw and blade tension may not be as important at lower speeds as it is when cutting wood but it’s something to consider. Most wood bandsaws are belt driven (though the shop I used to work in had a 38” direct drive Crescent with a 15hp motor) but without much room to work in some new pulleys-you’d almost certainly have to move the motor mount around some and a new/extended drive shaft.

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy
I work almost entirely with software so I'm pretty clueless about metal stuff (other than the :rock: kind). I need to cut a bigger hole into a chain platewheel made of C45 UNI 7847 steel. Would I be able to cut into it with a regular HSS hole saw? Or something like the Starrett Fast Cut, whatever the hell it's made from? I just have hand tools so if it's going to be a pain in the rear end I might need to look for a shop to do it for me.

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


mobby_6kl posted:

I work almost entirely with software so I'm pretty clueless about metal stuff (other than the :rock: kind). I need to cut a bigger hole into a chain platewheel made of C45 UNI 7847 steel. Would I be able to cut into it with a regular HSS hole saw? Or something like the Starrett Fast Cut, whatever the hell it's made from? I just have hand tools so if it's going to be a pain in the rear end I might need to look for a shop to do it for me.

It depends on the hardness. If it's full hard then you won't be touching it with hand tools. A holesaw is a terrible, nasty, thing and makes a pretty lovely cut. They do well as the first cut, but if there's already a hole that's larger than the pilot drill they will wander. Are you cutting the center bore, where the shaft would go through? Or a relief/lightening hole off center? For the center I'd look for someone with a lathe who can chuck up on it and just bore it out.

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy
It's not clear how hardened it is, although they do have a separate line of hardened wheels and I can put some light scratches on it with a file. There's an 8mm center bore that I need to increase to 40mm. It won't be really sitting on the shaft as much as it just needs to fit over a protrusion and will be bolted down tightly, so it doesn't have to be perfect and I could grind it out a bit if necessary. Still, seems like finding a lathe would be a much easier, thanks!

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib

mobby_6kl posted:

It's not clear how hardened it is, although they do have a separate line of hardened wheels and I can put some light scratches on it with a file. There's an 8mm center bore that I need to increase to 40mm. It won't be really sitting on the shaft as much as it just needs to fit over a protrusion and will be bolted down tightly, so it doesn't have to be perfect and I could grind it out a bit if necessary. Still, seems like finding a lathe would be a much easier, thanks!

Or water jet, or laser. They make hole saw arbors that take another hole saw in the middle instead of a drill bit, but a hole saw in even semi-hardened steel is never gonna work.

:Edit:
Looks like C45 is similar to 1045 here in the US. Strong, but cuttable in the annealed form.

sharkytm fucked around with this message at 12:54 on Aug 6, 2018

Volkerball
Oct 15, 2009

by FactsAreUseless
Just popping in to say gently caress hastelloy.

A Proper Uppercut
Sep 30, 2008

Volkerball posted:

Just popping in to say gently caress hastelloy.

Haha yea, we EDM it fairly often, but I hear it's a fucker to machine.

Yooper
Apr 30, 2012


Volkerball posted:

Just popping in to say gently caress hastelloy.

Our latest joy is crutonite. Which is a bit nastier than inconel, pyromet and waspalloy. We don't see much hastelloy, as I recall it acted rather gummy on the grinder.

Volkerball
Oct 15, 2009

by FactsAreUseless

Yooper posted:

Our latest joy is crutonite. Which is a bit nastier than inconel, pyromet and waspalloy. We don't see much hastelloy, as I recall it acted rather gummy on the grinder.

On a lathe idk if I would call it gummy but goddamn is it hard on tools.

honda whisperer
Mar 29, 2009

We've been getting some plates made of garrolite recently. Aka green glass. 42"x12" plates we have to machine flat plus a few features. Jesus it's hard on tools.

sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib

honda whisperer posted:

We've been getting some plates made of garrolite recently. Aka green glass. 42"x12" plates we have to machine flat plus a few features. Jesus it's hard on tools.

I've got some parts made from thin walled G10 tubing. My machinist hates them. Fragile, hard on tooling and machines, and in low volume.

Disgruntled Bovine
Jul 5, 2010

Yooper posted:

Our latest joy is crutonite. Which is a bit nastier than inconel, pyromet and waspalloy. We don't see much hastelloy, as I recall it acted rather gummy on the grinder.

We have a job at the moment which requires drilling a pattern of 105x .007 +/- .0002" holes in Monel.

shame on an IGA
Apr 8, 2005

Christ wept

Volkerball
Oct 15, 2009

by FactsAreUseless

Disgruntled Bovine posted:

We have a job at the moment which requires drilling a pattern of 105x .007 +/- .0002" holes in Monel.

Lmao. How deep?

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CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

Volkerball posted:

Lmao. How deep?

1.5002 +.0002/-.0000

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