Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
red19fire
May 26, 2010

Helen Highwater posted:

I found a few models on Facebook. There was a Fb group for TFP shoots in the area where I lived. I have also had some success with approaching people randomly. I give them a card with my IG and portfolio site on it and say that if they like the sort of stuff I do, I'd love to do a shoot with them. You need to be careful that your pitch is basically, 'I like to shoot portraits with random people who I think look cool and maybe you'd like to work with me' rather than 'How do you feel about this opportunity to potentially be sexually assaulted?' Especially, if like me you are a dude approaching women.

Instagram is another source of potential models. Look for people who are uploading a lot of fitness/beauty selfies in your area and ask if they'd like to take part in a more organised shoot.

Yeah, this is the way to go. Make sure you phrase it as a positive experience, rather than 'come to my studio in my basement when it's dark out'. Also keep in mind that if you're going to ask complete strangers (or random 'models') on instagram to shoot, they get pitches via DM constantly from creeps, so if you're going that route you should have a unique, or at least defined style. They're investing their time with you, they need to know that there will be a good finished product on the other end of the session.

It's a chicken-or-egg thing, you need a decent portfolio to be taken seriously by models, but you need decent models to build a decent portfolio. Being confident that your work is good is the place to start. Model Mayhem is a dying website, even more so than this one, if you can develop a good bullshit detector you should be able to suss out decent models from the pretenders and hustlers.



The only thing that bothers me is the lampshade and the statue thing at the bottom. From assisting a architecture photographer, his mis-en-scene rule for things on the edge of the frame is that either a thing has to be 80% into a photo or 100% out, otherwise it looks like a hasty mistake.

Also there's a hummingbird feeder sticking out of her head.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Thom12255
Feb 23, 2013
WHERE THE FUCK IS MY MONEY

red19fire posted:

The only thing that bothers me is the lampshade and the statue thing at the bottom. From assisting a architecture photographer, his mis-en-scene rule for things on the edge of the frame is that either a thing has to be 80% into a photo or 100% out, otherwise it looks like a hasty mistake.

Also there's a hummingbird feeder sticking out of her head.

Noticed both and completely agree, I'll end up cloning them out eventually.

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012



VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Thom12255 posted:

Noticed both and completely agree, I'll end up cloning them out eventually.

Another thing to me is it looks like a photoshop background or green screen shot, because there is no middle ground. You have the model who looks so evenly lit that there is no indication she's even inside, then the background which has no interaction with the model.

Thom12255
Feb 23, 2013
WHERE THE FUCK IS MY MONEY

VelociBacon posted:

Another thing to me is it looks like a photoshop background or green screen shot, because there is no middle ground. You have the model who looks so evenly lit that there is no indication she's even inside, then the background which has no interaction with the model.

It was a bounce flash. I actually wasn't intending it to be a proper portrait, just testing out my speedlite and thought this one came out cool enough to edit. I don't think it's a objectively negative thing to have a subject isolated from the background though.

RangerScum
Apr 6, 2006

lol hey there buddy

Thom12255 posted:

I actually wasn't intending it to be a proper portrait, just testing out my speedlite and thought this one came out cool enough to edit.

What do you think is cool about it?

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

afroserty
Apr 22, 2010


https://flic.kr/p/281YTru I have a different crop but I think I prefer the closer one. Disapointed that I missed the focus on the eyes. I haven't done many portraits so I was just messing around with some friends while we were having a drink, I'm happy with how it came out. Love the blunt criticism of this thread.

dakana
Aug 28, 2006
So I packed up my Salvador Dali print of two blindfolded dental hygienists trying to make a circle on an Etch-a-Sketch and headed for California.

afroserty posted:



https://flic.kr/p/281YTru I have a different crop but I think I prefer the closer one. Disapointed that I missed the focus on the eyes. I haven't done many portraits so I was just messing around with some friends while we were having a drink, I'm happy with how it came out. Love the blunt criticism of this thread.

So, conventional wisdom would be to avoid dead-center framing and chopping off hands like that, but I really dig that you did both. You've got this close shot, awkward crop of hands, looking away just slightly, and dead-center, and it honestly works really well and is super interesting.

tk
Dec 10, 2003

Nap Ghost

Helen Highwater
Feb 19, 2014

And furthermore
Grimey Drawer

Should have moved the plant out of the frame first.

tk
Dec 10, 2003

Nap Ghost

Helen Highwater posted:

Should have moved the plant out of the frame first.

I have this one too. The interlocked fingers bother me and I feel like her hands pull more attention away from her face than the plant does (despite it otherwise ruining the picture).

Megabound
Oct 20, 2012

theHUNGERian
Feb 23, 2006

Hey guys,

Against my wishes, my was hired as a wedding reception photographer. My background was exclusively in still life when a couple hired me as their wedding photographer. The clients were happy enough with the outcome to ask me to cover the reception too. Reviewing the wedding pictures, I noticed a couple of mistakes that I know I can fix in the (more important) reception shoot.

One thing I am struggling with is gear. I have a lovely MF 21mm Loxia that is fantastic for landscape, but utterly useless in a dynamic reception setting where AF is critical. I bought a 55mm f/1.8 for the wedding as I was going to buy that lens later this year either way. But during the wedding I noticed that I had to step pretty far back to cover many scenes which involved only 2 people. The reception will have even less room, so I am thinking of renting a 35mm f/1.4 ZA. I would much rather err on the wide side and crop out if I end up being wrong. The alternative would be a zoom, but I worry about the smaller aperture and lousier image quality. Since this will be an outdoor event in the late evening, having the option of more aperture sounds better than having more room with focal length. Any thoughts?

The other point (and I am a hypocrite here) is that I would like to spend more time shooting with the lens @ ~f/5 or so, so more things are in focus. The obvious downside is that lighting will perhaps not be enough to allow such a small aperture. I've never set up anything with flash, so I am a little bit intimidated by it. I was thinking of bumping up the ISO as I am pretty happy with the noise at ISO 3200 with in-camera noise reduction set to low. Will I regret this compromise?

Finally, where's a good place to practice before the big day? I would need a place where I can shoot people from 10 ft away in the evening without looking like a weirdo/stalker. I cannot think of a single place where this would not come across as a full-on invasion of privacy.

Edit: Camera is an A7R3.

um excuse me
Jan 1, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
Busy aquarium. I can't think of a worse lighting scenario with lots of people who won't already be taking photos so no one will notice.

Also I had to learn flash photography not too long ago. Technology makes it pretty much automatic with the right equipment. Set up two strobes in the opposite corners of a room, up as high as you can get them. Test exposures and forget them. Unless the subjects are in the exact center of the room, there will always be a stronger key light, just make sure ISO is cranked up because you don't want to burn out your images and supplement the flashes with room lighting especially if the DJ has an expensive kit.

DJExile
Jun 28, 2007


Take a friend or family member to places where you figure you're going to have similar lighting and just take pictures of them.

Dudeabides
Jul 26, 2009

"You better not buy me that goddamn tourist av"

theHUNGERian posted:

Hey guys,

Against my wishes, my was hired as a wedding reception photographer. My background was exclusively in still life when a couple hired me as their wedding photographer. The clients were happy enough with the outcome to ask me to cover the reception too. Reviewing the wedding pictures, I noticed a couple of mistakes that I know I can fix in the (more important) reception shoot.

One thing I am struggling with is gear. I have a lovely MF 21mm Loxia that is fantastic for landscape, but utterly useless in a dynamic reception setting where AF is critical. I bought a 55mm f/1.8 for the wedding as I was going to buy that lens later this year either way. But during the wedding I noticed that I had to step pretty far back to cover many scenes which involved only 2 people. The reception will have even less room, so I am thinking of renting a 35mm f/1.4 ZA. I would much rather err on the wide side and crop out if I end up being wrong. The alternative would be a zoom, but I worry about the smaller aperture and lousier image quality. Since this will be an outdoor event in the late evening, having the option of more aperture sounds better than having more room with focal length. Any thoughts?

The other point (and I am a hypocrite here) is that I would like to spend more time shooting with the lens @ ~f/5 or so, so more things are in focus. The obvious downside is that lighting will perhaps not be enough to allow such a small aperture. I've never set up anything with flash, so I am a little bit intimidated by it. I was thinking of bumping up the ISO as I am pretty happy with the noise at ISO 3200 with in-camera noise reduction set to low. Will I regret this compromise?

Finally, where's a good place to practice before the big day? I would need a place where I can shoot people from 10 ft away in the evening without looking like a weirdo/stalker. I cannot think of a single place where this would not come across as a full-on invasion of privacy.

Edit: Camera is an A7R3.

Will you also have a zoom lens with you? You'll find situations where the prime is a good move, but having the flexibility of the zoom (paired with a good flash) will help as well.

DJExile
Jun 28, 2007


Yeah honestly if you have a solid zoom available as well, that's going to help you out in a lot of situations. Super fast primes are great but in a constantly evolving situation like a wedding and reception, having that flexibility of a zoom as opposed to trying to swap out lenses is going to be a huge help.

Good aperture zooms of like f/4 and faster aren't going to have 'lousier image quality'. Kit lenses are junk, sure, but pros keep zoom lenses around for a drat good reason.

theHUNGERian
Feb 23, 2006

Dudeabides posted:

Will you also have a zoom lens with you? You'll find situations where the prime is a good move, but having the flexibility of the zoom (paired with a good flash) will help as well.

That was one of my questions although it was buried in too much text. Assuming that I want to shoot with one camera and one lens*, will I be better off with the 35 mm f/1.4 or with the 24-70 mm f/2.8? I am leaning toward the prime because the dark ambient may require a wider lens.

*I don't have two cameras, and I am not motivated enough to bust my rear end off with two cameras (one rented) as I am not getting paid for this event


um excuse me posted:

Busy aquarium. I can't think of a worse lighting scenario with lots of people who won't already be taking photos so no one will notice.

Also I had to learn flash photography not too long ago. Technology makes it pretty much automatic with the right equipment. Set up two strobes in the opposite corners of a room, up as high as you can get them. Test exposures and forget them. Unless the subjects are in the exact center of the room, there will always be a stronger key light, just make sure ISO is cranked up because you don't want to burn out your images and supplement the flashes with room lighting especially if the DJ has an expensive kit.

This will be an outdoor event. What's an appropriate flash setup that will not take up space, is easy to set up and learn, and won't piss of the general audience? The DJ can gently caress right off.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

theHUNGERian posted:

This will be an outdoor event. What's an appropriate flash setup that will not take up space, is easy to set up and learn, and won't piss of the general audience? The DJ can gently caress right off.

I guess a shoot-through umbrella on a stand with a speedlight, and two radio triggers (pocket wizards) or a long flash pc sync cord thing if you don't want to buy radio triggers.



Something like that with a speedlight in it. You'd have to set the flash manually, position it as a fill light generally, and you wouldn't be able to do groups of more than 10 or so with even lighting. The next step up past this is a ton more money and complexity.

e: if you think you need the coverage or you want to do specific things like use another flash as a bounce flash or to light up hair etc you could get a second stand/umbrella/speedlight and a third radio trigger but that's not really going to be a good idea for your first time IMO.

VelociBacon fucked around with this message at 05:27 on Aug 9, 2018

theHUNGERian
Feb 23, 2006

VelociBacon posted:

I guess a shoot-through umbrella on a stand with a speedlight, and two radio triggers (pocket wizards) or a long flash pc sync cord thing if you don't want to buy radio triggers.



Something like that with a speedlight in it. You'd have to set the flash manually, position it as a fill light generally, and you wouldn't be able to do groups of more than 10 or so with even lighting. The next step up past this is a ton more money and complexity.

e: if you think you need the coverage or you want to do specific things like use another flash as a bounce flash or to light up hair etc you could get a second stand/umbrella/speedlight and a third radio trigger but that's not really going to be a good idea for your first time IMO.

Thanks.

So the flash will be off-camera and have its own battery, right? How long does a battery last? Can you recommend any good web pages that describe the position of subject, camera, and flash for a variety of basic shots so that I don't create harsh shadows?

Edit: Assuming that I needed a more mobile setup (the venue will be small, and I can't run around with an umbrella all night) is there anything I can attach to the camera and get half-way decent images of groups of up to 3 people? I can certainly try to have one 'fancy photo corner' where I can shoot more glamorous shots. But I would also like to do less staged images if at all possible.

theHUNGERian fucked around with this message at 05:59 on Aug 9, 2018

8th-snype
Aug 28, 2005

My office is in the front room of a run-down 12 megapixel sensor but the rent suits me and the landlord doesn't ask many questions.

Dorkroom Short Fiction Champion 2012


Young Orc

theHUNGERian posted:

Thanks.

So the flash will be off-camera and have its own battery, right? How long does a battery last? Can you recommend any good web pages that describe the position of subject, camera, and flash for a variety of basic shots so that I don't create harsh shadows?

Edit: Assuming that I needed a more mobile setup (the venue will be small, and I can't run around with an umbrella all night) is there anything I can attach to the camera and get half-way decent images of groups of up to 3 people? I can certainly try to have one 'fancy photo corner' where I can shoot more glamorous shots. But I would also like to do less staged images if at all possible.

When is the wedding?

theHUNGERian
Feb 23, 2006

8th-snype posted:

When is the wedding?

Sept 1st.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

theHUNGERian posted:

Thanks.

So the flash will be off-camera and have its own battery, right? How long does a battery last? Can you recommend any good web pages that describe the position of subject, camera, and flash for a variety of basic shots so that I don't create harsh shadows?

Edit: Assuming that I needed a more mobile setup (the venue will be small, and I can't run around with an umbrella all night) is there anything I can attach to the camera and get half-way decent images of groups of up to 3 people? I can certainly try to have one 'fancy photo corner' where I can shoot more glamorous shots. But I would also like to do less staged images if at all possible.

You'd set up the umbrella at the group photo area and when you want you could take the speedlight off and put it on the camera and walk around in TTL mode getting candid shots.

E: as a resource there's a website called strobist that has a decent intro kinda tutorial but the rest of the stuff on the site isn't entirely loved by goons.

theHUNGERian
Feb 23, 2006

VelociBacon posted:

You'd set up the umbrella at the group photo area and when you want you could take the speedlight off and put it on the camera and walk around in TTL mode getting candid shots.

E: as a resource there's a website called strobist that has a decent intro kinda tutorial but the rest of the stuff on the site isn't entirely loved by goons.

Thanks.

I've also looked at a couple of lighting tutorials from Fstoppers over my lunch break today. The client gave me permission to set up two umbrellas for the fancy shots, so I'll pick those up this weekend, start dicking around, and taking notes. For the umbrella-less candid shots, what's a recommended diffuser I can carry on-camera?

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
I prefer the gary fong lightsphere personally. I used the sto-fen omni bounce for a while but it doesn't soften as well as the light sphere does. It's expensive but the light output was worth it to me.

um excuse me
Jan 1, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
What I never understood about the light sphere is why anyone would want to diffuse light backwards. If you had that light going a direction that would eventually reach your subject you would have more settings freedom.

theHUNGERian
Feb 23, 2006

Would I be losing out on anything important/convenient if I were to go for the poor man's setup in this video?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G2HpKJbIakM&t=313s

So I take my existing A7R3 and add:
Two stands
Two umbrellas
One Wireless Radio Flash Remote - PocketWizard PlusX
Two Speedlights - Yongnuo YN-560 II

and one diffuser so I can put it on the speedlight and mount that on my camera for more casual pictures of the party after I am done with the staged shots?

Is this a shoe-string setup that will immediately die on me?

um excuse me
Jan 1, 2016

by Fluffdaddy
I bought a $250 flash and umbrella setup in 2011. I still have it today. It's extremely portable too. Mind you this does not see anywhere near commercial use, but as long as you treat all this Chinese garbage like it's always going to break, you'll actually be more careful with it and won't be surprised when it actually does break.

The application heavily dictates what I'd recommend.

theHUNGERian
Feb 23, 2006

um excuse me posted:

I bought a $250 flash and umbrella setup in 2011. I still have it today. It's extremely portable too. Mind you this does not see anywhere near commercial use, but as long as you treat all this Chinese garbage like it's always going to break, you'll actually be more careful with it and won't be surprised when it actually does break.

The application heavily dictates what I'd recommend.

I'd love a recommendation.

Application: 1 time wedding reception. I'll likely never use it again, therefore
Budget: $500 or less (but there is wiggle room)

theHUNGERian fucked around with this message at 04:12 on Aug 11, 2018

dakana
Aug 28, 2006
So I packed up my Salvador Dali print of two blindfolded dental hygienists trying to make a circle on an Etch-a-Sketch and headed for California.
You can buy:
Godox V860IIS flash - $179
X1T-S trigger - $46
S-type flash bracket - $17.90
a light stand - $32.95
umbrella - $30.40
for under $350.

theHUNGERian
Feb 23, 2006

dakana posted:

You can buy:
Godox V860IIS flash - $179
X1T-S trigger - $46
S-type flash bracket - $17.90
a light stand - $32.95
umbrella - $30.40
for under $350.

Thanks. And one flash will be sufficient? Again, I don't know poo poo about portrait and flash, only what I have seen in youtube videos, and two flashes is the typical setup that I see in those.

8th-snype
Aug 28, 2005

My office is in the front room of a run-down 12 megapixel sensor but the rent suits me and the landlord doesn't ask many questions.

Dorkroom Short Fiction Champion 2012


Young Orc
If you don't know flash then keep it simple. One flash either on a stand in a brolly or on camera and bounced.

theHUNGERian
Feb 23, 2006

8th-snype posted:

If you don't know flash then keep it simple. One flash either on a stand in a brolly or on camera and bounced.

Yes, you are right. Buy one, practice, adapt as I learn.

Thanks.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Also always err on the side of underexposing with the flash strength, it's very easy to make people's faces blown out a bit or look greasy with highlights and not always easy to see on the back of your body.

Helen Highwater
Feb 19, 2014

And furthermore
Grimey Drawer
If you're going with Yongnuo 560 IIIs, then there's a Yongnuo flash controller for about $25 that is specifically designed to support them. I have one and it works pretty well - it even keeps settings from session to session so you don't need to do all the pairing and group organisation each time. It's most definitely not the sturdiest item I own, but if you are careful not to throw it around it'll do you fine at a fraction of the Pocket Wizard price.

theHUNGERian
Feb 23, 2006

VelociBacon posted:

Also always err on the side of underexposing with the flash strength, it's very easy to make people's faces blown out a bit or look greasy with highlights and not always easy to see on the back of your body.

Yeah, I've already learned that lesson.


Helen Highwater posted:

If you're going with Yongnuo 560 IIIs, then there's a Yongnuo flash controller for about $25 that is specifically designed to support them. I have one and it works pretty well - it even keeps settings from session to session so you don't need to do all the pairing and group organisation each time. It's most definitely not the sturdiest item I own, but if you are careful not to throw it around it'll do you fine at a fraction of the Pocket Wizard price.

The local camera store only has the Godox V860IIS and the Promaster 100SL. But you make a very good point about storing settings between sessions, so I'll try to get the flash that has a controller with that feature.

torgeaux
Dec 31, 2004
I serve...
Sunlit portrait by B. B., on Flickr

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

theHUNGERian posted:

The local camera store only has the Godox V860IIS and the Promaster 100SL. But you make a very good point about storing settings between sessions, so I'll try to get the flash that has a controller with that feature.

My two pocket wizards were $200 CAD from craigslist so I don't think they're too expensive.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply