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your light bulbs being on your wifi should not be a security concern for your home. people are going way overboard with this. e: just deny them internet access if you're that worried about it (you shouldn't be) CheddarGoblin fucked around with this message at 19:15 on Aug 7, 2018 |
# ? Aug 7, 2018 19:13 |
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# ? May 14, 2024 23:43 |
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Fancy_Lad posted:Am I crazy in thinking that there is a fairly reasonable security concern with dozens of random WiFi devices splattered all over the place, doing god knows what on the local network? Just put them on a vlan.
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# ? Aug 7, 2018 19:38 |
What is a good outdoor dome IP camera that is good to buy in 2018? Just want something I can LAN control and record to a NAS or whatever the accepted solution is, nothing that uses any cloud poo poo.
Pryor on Fire fucked around with this message at 01:49 on Aug 13, 2018 |
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# ? Aug 13, 2018 01:00 |
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For what application? FOV with striking brightness and dark shadows? Long shot needing deep focal depths? Vandall resistant / high rando activity area? For dirt cheap (turrets) for $52 on AliExpress for grey market kit? For night time ... at all? A Starlight with Sony Starvis sensor! In general, the 2~12mm+ Varifocal lens and Starvis CMOS by Sony, in a compact turret FF, make the Dahua IPC-HDW5231R-ZE an awesome camera and a non-terrible price (if you get them through Andy of EmpireTec, they’re about $168. No better bang for the buck, almost. Tapedump fucked around with this message at 01:51 on Aug 13, 2018 |
# ? Aug 13, 2018 01:46 |
Sorry just added info, any outdoor dome should be fine, no night vision. I have no idea what FOV I'd want but I'll try to figure that out.
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# ? Aug 13, 2018 01:50 |
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Ah, the please reread my edited post. So, these are strictly for daylight hours? You need dome for physical trauma resistant, right? FOV can often be quite wide. I’m hoping we’re not confusing focal depths for FOV... (although the adjustment of focal depth indeed affect FOV). Also, I can’t find any cam worth buying that doesn’t have IR blasters and lowlight mode. You can turn those off thought, if your target zone is perpetually light. Finally, you want control of camera over LAN. Does this mean you can access their GUIs and adjust brightness, etc. as well as set focal depth on a verifocal model? Or, do you envision a whole setup where you spend a whole bunch of money on Pan, Tilt, Zoom (PTZ controls) cameras. Tapedump fucked around with this message at 02:01 on Aug 13, 2018 |
# ? Aug 13, 2018 01:53 |
I was thinking dome because it would sort of be hanging down from a corner and I'd want to be able to move it ~270 degrees without it being obvious that it's on or moving, so yeah controls and everything. Thanks for the brands I need to educate myself a bit more on what all features are out there
Pryor on Fire fucked around with this message at 02:04 on Aug 13, 2018 |
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# ? Aug 13, 2018 01:57 |
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Okay, you DO want a PTZ camera. I dome would indeed best hide movement, but many PTZ models exist. Again, they’re all gonna have night vision and IR blasters that you will apparently want to turn off. Edit: And it’s gonna cost three to four bills (or half that on AliExpress if you order through Andy) Tapedump fucked around with this message at 02:18 on Aug 13, 2018 |
# ? Aug 13, 2018 02:04 |
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Generally you want to stop and think about what the goals of your camera system are. Cameras placed to try capture package thieves will be different than one used to give an overview of people approaching a house. Something where you want the detail level high and the field of view wide is likely to create a conflict. So any given camera should be trying to accomplish one thing. If you have more than one goal, prioritize them. The second thing to look at is budget. This is generally what limits what can and can't be done. For budget, it's better to have an actual number rather then some vague descriptive answer. You mention wanting a PTZ camera. Those tend to be great when you have a full time operator or use them as a supplement to fixed cameras giving an overview. But by themselves in a passive role, they tend to always end up aimed in the wrong place.
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# ? Aug 13, 2018 15:14 |
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Looks like Samsung announced a new smartthings hub today which can work over WiFi, as well as new sensors: https://www.theverge.com/circuitbreaker/2018/8/13/17677234/smartthings-wifi-router-hub-samsung
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# ? Aug 13, 2018 16:25 |
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I swear home automation stuff is kind of addicting. I started out with a couple ikea smart bulbs and now I want to homekit-ify the entire house. I’d like to do a front door lock next, is the August one still the goto? And I suppose there are only deadbolt versions, my doorknob also has a key lock.
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# ? Aug 13, 2018 17:51 |
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It definitely is a bit addicting. You can really go off the rails too if you're DIYish, too.
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# ? Aug 13, 2018 20:07 |
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priznat posted:I swear home automation stuff is kind of addicting. I started out with a couple ikea smart bulbs and now I want to homekit-ify the entire house. I have this Yale deadbolt and I really like it. Looks like there's been newer revisions since I got mine. They sell different ones with handles and keyholes, too. https://www.amazon.com/Yale-Securit...ref=mp_s_a_1_13
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# ? Aug 14, 2018 03:40 |
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Man, Home Assistant is pretty impressive, but they seriously need a stable/development channel split. Just had to deal with a series of bugs related to hassio crapping itself if there was a password set which was fixed within 48 hours, but should have never made it into "production" release. Also their strategy around naming entities (specifically generating entities from z-wave devices) is really wonky...
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# ? Aug 14, 2018 03:40 |
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Is there a way to reduce Nest Outdoor Cam's sensitivity? I know about zones, but it keeps getting triggered by stuff like shadows left by tree leaves moving in the wind.
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# ? Aug 16, 2018 17:00 |
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I want to post this in case it helps someone else-- I have a VeraEdge with UI7. Out of the blue the remote gateway could no longer reach it. From inside my network I could see it and it seemed to work fine - Internet was reported as good. I thought maybe it was firmware, so I updated to 1.7.4000 and that didn't fix it. It did result in a strange error message about not having enough free space. After many adventures on forums, I found the commands to fix it - essentially delete some unneeded files to free space. From this thread: http://forum.micasaverde.com/index.php/topic,84365.0.html Here are the instructions: quote:Click on the tab: Apps> Develop apps> and on the option: Test Luup code (Lua) please paste the following codes one by one and click on: Go, once You have a positive confirmation message, continue with the next line, once You finish all the lines, the controller will reboot, please wait till You have all the lights on solid on the controller and do the log in one more time. Hopefully it'll help you too!
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# ? Aug 16, 2018 18:56 |
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enraged_camel posted:Is there a way to reduce Nest Outdoor Cam's sensitivity? I know about zones, but it keeps getting triggered by stuff like shadows left by tree leaves moving in the wind. Unless you're not currently paying for Nest Aware, no. Even with Nest Aware, you don't have any control over it; it just uses machine learning in ~The Cloud~ to help reduce false alerts and that's that.
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# ? Aug 19, 2018 17:56 |
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This is why I usually advise people to not bother with motion alerts for outdoor cameras, there are just too many false positives. Especially if it's in a spot where the sun shines and is partially blocked by trees (moving shadows, etc). You really need a motion detector for that, preferably an outdoor specific one that is more than just a PIR sensor because those will also get triggered by the sun.
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# ? Aug 20, 2018 19:16 |
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n.. posted:This is why I usually advise people to not bother with motion alerts for outdoor cameras, there are just too many false positives. Especially if it's in a spot where the sun shines and is partially blocked by trees (moving shadows, etc). The Nest will do "Motion" "Sound" and "Person" ... so I just have mine set to only phone alert me for "Person" but it still logs the other alerts so I can go back on the timeline and check if I think something may have happened.
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# ? Aug 20, 2018 23:36 |
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BonoMan posted:The Nest will do "Motion" "Sound" and "Person" ... so I just have mine set to only phone alert me for "Person" but it still logs the other alerts so I can go back on the timeline and check if I think something may have happened. Yes, this works very well. The actual reason I came into this thread was to post my experience finally setting up homeassistant to work with Google Assistant. The TLDR version is that it works great. Just so I could reduce depending upon a possibly-flaky third party I opted to use the manual configuration method rather than the method that uses the Home Assistant Cloud. Once I configured the component all is good. The configuration and setup is kind of involved as it involves setting stuff up on the Google Developer Console, but the instructions are spot on, you just have to follow through the steps. You also have to have HA exposed to the public internet, which I already had set up. You don't have to do any of this poo poo like "Hey Google, talk to Home Assistant" or anything, you just say "Hey Google, turn on the silver lamp". All of your devices (or devices that you specifically white list) show up in the Home app so you can assign them to specific rooms and assign nicknames there if you want. Google Assistant does natural language processing so you can just say the name fairly close. Like I have a "upstairs desk lamp" that I can turn on just by saying "turn on the desk lamp" and omit the "upstairs" part. Or I can say "turn on the desk lamps" and it'll turn the upstairs one and the downstairs one on. A big benefit of this set up is that a device doesn't have to have explicit support for Google Assistant for it to work...it just has to work with Home Assistant (which supports a ton of mainstream and esoteric stuff). Some might recall me bitching awhile back about MyQ removing IFTTT support for their garage door opener which is how I used it with Google Assistant. Well, since Home Assistant works with MyQ, I can now open and close my garage door with Google Assistant. If it works with Home Assistant it now works with Google Assistant. In other news, I just ordered a bunch of stuff from aliexpress (read that to mean a 4-week shipping time) to make my own wifi multisensor that does humidity, temperature, movement, lux and vibration. It cost like 15 bucks compared to 60 bucks for a good zwave multisensor. Of course, there's significant downsides compared to a zwave multisensor: 1. It's wifi, so I'm not even going to think about making it battery powered. 2. That means it will have to be located near an outlet. 3. I'll have to 3d print an enclosure or find something else to make an enclosure out of. (I might put this one in my crawlspace. In that case I won't even use an enclosure.) 4. Whatever I do for an enclosure it's not going to be as pleasing to the eye as a zwave device. So, yeah, some real drawbacks. Not sure if the cost savings are worth it for me. Maybe in some circumstances... The nice thing about HA is that its platform agnostic so I can use this multisensor I'm building, zwave devices, wifi devices, serial and usb devices, esoteric 433mhz poo poo...all working seamlessly together. (ok, since I'm always tinkering it'll never be seamless and this whole thing is a real waste, but whatever!)
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# ? Aug 21, 2018 18:57 |
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Whats up with Ispy support? They don't have a community forum. I'm trying to install a plug-in on their Agent but it keeps failing and I haven't heard back from them on an email I sent a couple of days ago.
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# ? Aug 21, 2018 19:42 |
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Thermopyle posted:
You can make them just plug into the wall like so. The ones I made don't look too bad (being white and blending in with the walls) and work much better than the only comparable product out there, the HSM200 zwave multisensor that turned out to be a $60 piece of garbage. My $5 nodemcu-based ones are much more reliable. Multisensor: Alarm/chime speaker (and motion sensor):
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# ? Aug 21, 2018 20:05 |
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Is that something you printed?
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# ? Aug 21, 2018 22:30 |
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It is, I can share my models but every nodeMCU i've ordered from different manufacturers have been ever so slightly different in their physical dimensions that I basically have to adjust the model for each print. They're in Onshape so they're pretty easy to edit. The prongs for the outlet are from these and I'm using these little DC power supplies. https://cad.onshape.com/documents/d886856a701287620e62e7a3/w/6f3d0706c2a06adcfd21a2f3/e/6bb2345c0e4ff1eb930d4f96 The prongs screw in, the nodeMCU slides into a slot (with a cutout for the USB port so you don't have to take it apart for reprogramming). Everything else is hot glued into place.
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# ? Aug 21, 2018 22:40 |
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Ok, cool. Now for the task (that I'm sure is super simple...hahah) of figuring out what printer to get...
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# ? Aug 21, 2018 23:08 |
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Thermopyle posted:Ok, cool. https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3365193&perpage=40&pagenumber=330 (But I got an Ender 3 and for 200 bucks I’m not sure there’s a better option.)
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# ? Aug 22, 2018 01:16 |
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Thermopyle posted:In other news, I just ordered a bunch of stuff from aliexpress (read that to mean a 4-week shipping time) to make my own wifi multisensor that does humidity, temperature, movement, lux and vibration. It cost like 15 bucks compared to 60 bucks for a good zwave multisensor. Of course, there's significant downsides compared to a zwave multisensor: You can most definitely make ESP8266 projects battery powered, with decent battery life. This guy is doing everything but vibration and plans on getting at least 6mo out of a pair of AAs: https://hackaday.io/project/20588-espmobe-battery-powered-esp8266-iot-sensor Depending on where it's going and how exposed it's going to be, I'll often go poke through the electrical box aisle in Home Depot for project boxes. Stuff like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/4-in-x-4-in-x-2-in-PVC-Junction-Box-E989NNJ-CAR/100404097 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-1-Gang-22-cu-in-ENT-Electrical-Box-A122-CAR/202077343 https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-Gang-FSE-Electrical-Box-R5133363/202043495 https://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-1-Gang-18-cu-in-Blue-PVC-New-Work-Switch-and-Outlet-Box-with-Bracket-B118B-UPC/100404148
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# ? Aug 22, 2018 14:10 |
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n0tqu1tesane posted:You can most definitely make ESP8266 projects battery powered, with decent battery life. This guy is doing everything but vibration and plans on getting at least 6mo out of a pair of AAs: It looks like his 6-month target is based upon the device only waking up 10 times per hour? Not very useful for a motion sensor, but would be pretty nice for logging stuff like temperature...
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# ? Aug 22, 2018 15:03 |
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Thermopyle posted:It looks like his 6-month target is based upon the device only waking up 10 times per hour? No, they found a pretty good solution to that too, using an ATTINY25, unfortunately it's using a hard to find Panasonic sensor. quote:Panasonic EKMA 1101111:
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# ? Aug 22, 2018 22:00 |
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Oh, thats cool!
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# ? Aug 23, 2018 02:01 |
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I'm in the process of getting written permission from my HOA to put up two outdoor security cameras, what are the go to truly wireless/battery powered cameras? I see the Arlo's are pretty highly recommended but are there any others slipping underneath the radar?
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# ? Aug 23, 2018 04:30 |
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My neighbor says the Arlo pro 2 work really well. The 1st gen he says wasn’t great. Those seem to be the best in that space
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# ? Aug 23, 2018 04:43 |
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skipdogg posted:My neighbor says the Arlo pro 2 work really well. The 1st gen he says wasn’t great. That was what I was leaning towards and what I have seen on a few review sites, sometimes these threads have alternate opinions which usually pan out just as well for half the cost, thanks!
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# ? Aug 23, 2018 16:24 |
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Anker apparently has a new one coming out too: https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1116368506/evercam-the-wirefree-security-cam-with-365-day-bat
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# ? Aug 23, 2018 17:18 |
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Go back to the part about writing to the HOA to get permission to put up cameras.... If you are going wireless and battery powered--pick your cameras and then go buy two bird houses. Get the ones with a hinged bottom (normally used to clean them out) and you have the perfect mount for a covert camera. Toss insect poison granules inside with the camera and spray it with poison every month or so and you won't have to worry about webs and crawly things setting off motion alerts.
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# ? Aug 24, 2018 04:13 |
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HycoCam posted:Go back to the part about writing to the HOA to get permission to put up cameras.... I had already received verbal permission from the chair, I'm just waiting for written before I purchase something.
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# ? Aug 24, 2018 04:16 |
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HoA's have some crazy rules. Does mounting cameras fall under a needing permission to change the appearance of your house rule? Would you need to get HoA permission to mount driveway spotlights?
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# ? Aug 24, 2018 04:23 |
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HycoCam posted:HoA's have some crazy rules. Does mounting cameras fall under a needing permission to change the appearance of your house rule? Would you need to get HoA permission to mount driveway spotlights? Our HOA is pretty lax, I see lots of alterations to the fronts of the townhouses, i'm just doing some CYA since it's not like these cameras are cheap.
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# ? Aug 24, 2018 04:29 |
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BonoMan posted:Anker apparently has a new one coming out too: My interest is piqued with Anker, no way I’m doing a kickstarter but if I could order off amazon that’ll be pretty cool.
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# ? Aug 24, 2018 04:52 |
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# ? May 14, 2024 23:43 |
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Do people seek out HOA's? Because paying a massive monthly fee, cant do anything to your house like you're renting, and they can put a lean on your poo poo really turns me off and it is hard to find a place without that poo poo. I live in a small 12 house lot that may have some riff raff, but it's better than dealing with that poo poo.
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# ? Aug 24, 2018 15:11 |