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For dirtying models up I've been enjoying the Tamiya soil effects. Got 'em cheap on sale a while back and they've become my standard material for basing and, mixed with a mud effect and some good brown toning, mud splatter on my troops's boots and coats. Not so useful for dust higher up but that's a case for pigments or paint stippling rather than a full-on soil effect anyway.
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Aug 12, 2018 04:45
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Two Beans posted:He's a Thousand Sons Legion Praetor that I gave a combi-plasma to. Oh yikes, that's a ForgeWorld item. I don't think I'm at that stage yet. Heck, at the rate I'm going, I might never make it to that stage. Anyway, the Guardians are mostly done (save for the alternate color one I was doing)    I had a hell of a time trying to do the red. Either I don't need to thin it, or I thin it too much, cause I did a bunch of coats, and you can still see some grey sticking out from underneath. It could just be an issue with the paint. I was able to paint the shuriken thrower by mixing together a grey and adding a bit of blue to get that approximation of that shade. The eyes came out a bit better than I expected (they're not great, but the white undercoat helped, I think). I still need to paint the gems on the chest and base them. The orcs are also coming along okay.     I realized I was able to still disassemble them a bit, so that helped a little bit with painting the leather straps. I don't know how to paint the chest pieces for them, but I was planning to do a bone color for them, and I need a bone color anyway to do the teeth and the weapon handles. I haven't applied any washes, but I'm thinking that might make the pants look a bit more grungy. I haven't done anything with the other two orcs yet, as I'm worried about how to work around the helmets.
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Aug 12, 2018 05:38
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Max Wilco posted:
Nah, that's just red. There are a few colors that are notoriously hard to paint and red is one. For your current project I'd just keep on keeping on and do the layers, but in the future there are some paints like reaper's HD line and some of the GW basecoats that can help. This video has some tips for getting an undercoat that you can put red on top of to make it a lot easier to paint red over, whether or not you're using zenithal highlighting: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rFDHpVJiNC0 It pretty much boils down to use brown then use red.
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Aug 12, 2018 07:39
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MSP fire red has pretty good coverage, in my experience.
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Aug 12, 2018 07:46
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Rhaegar posted:Could anyone recommend an alternative to Zandri Dust undercoast spray in north america (canada). I need an equivalent spray for my Kill Team terrain. Thanks. I picked up a krylon camouflage color that looks like a match. I have a can of zandri dust as well so I will try and compare the two tomorrow.
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Aug 12, 2018 07:57
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long-rear end nips Diane posted:Nah, that's just red. There are a few colors that are notoriously hard to paint and red is one. For your current project I'd just keep on keeping on and do the layers, but in the future there are some paints like reaper's HD line and some of the GW basecoats that can help. I'm not familiar with zenithal, but I think I got the gist of the technique. Working up from brown and/or red-brown layers help the red shine out a bit more, or masks the transparency in the paint (I assume the white wasn't just an undercoat to make the red stand out, but also to serve as a highlight.) The video also made the notion of getting an airbrush really appealing. It looks like it speeds things up dramatically, but again, that seems like something that's meant for advanced or experienced painters, and something you really have to invest in (in terms of money, care, and dedication). Max Wilco fucked around with this message at 09:37 on Aug 12, 2018 |
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Aug 12, 2018 09:33
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P3's red covers like a dream.
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Aug 12, 2018 12:57
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Max Wilco posted:The video also made the notion of getting an airbrush really appealing. It looks like it speeds things up dramatically, but again, that seems like something that's meant for advanced or experienced painters, and something you really have to invest in (in terms of money, care, and dedication). It does require money, care, and dedication, and most of all physical space, but I wouldn't call it something for advanced painters. I picked mine up relatively early, and am developing airbrush skills in parallel with paintbrush skills -- there's nothing that says it's better to develop paintbrush skills first and then airbrush, and indeed one of the reasons I got the airbrush so early was I wanted to be able to do easy smooth priming and basecoats so I wouldn't have to try to learn paintbrush skills on uneven, lumpy, or detail-obscuring layers of primer. Also the zenithal thing, which really is as cool as it looks. But, yeah, money and time and space. And ventilation. Don't do what I did and get an airbrush first and then use it for a while before investing in a good spray mask; I'm pretty sure I've suffered permanent lung capacity reduction.
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Aug 12, 2018 20:08
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While we are on airbrush chat, any go-to YouTubes or website series for building airbrush skills and techniques? I have watched the wargame consortium series which was ok, but the only other substantial YouTube series I've found is the Next Level Painting channel and I can't stand that guy's schtick.
Mikey Purp fucked around with this message at 20:51 on Aug 12, 2018 |
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Aug 12, 2018 20:19
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Never stop watching the Polish Painting Perfection of Buypainted.
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Aug 12, 2018 20:34
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Ugghhhh. Sigh. The Next Level Painting videos from about two years ago to about one year ago are the video series that probably taught me the most, if you can stand Kenny's Fratbaggiest Fratbag Who Ever Fratbagged presentation. There's a point where he briefly adopts, and then quickly ditches, an intro theme song; that pretty much marks the point where you can stop watching. (I am so sorry for recommending him, y'all. So sorry.) EDIT: Wow, teach me to read. Sorry, but I think he really is the best for basic techniques. More recently, Jack of Clubs Painting did the tutorials for how to airbrush space marine armor that form the foundation for what I'm currently doing with Raven Guard. Stephenls fucked around with this message at 21:03 on Aug 12, 2018 |
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Aug 12, 2018 20:57
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Stephenls posted:Ugghhhh. Nah, I agree with you. His actual techniques and tips are pretty solid. It's just, you also have to deal with absolutely inane poo poo like "Ancient Chinese Secrets", "Gangster Gumbo", and all kinds of "painting hacks" in order to get to the useful stuff. If you can wade through the poo poo, there's a surprising amount of diamonds to be found.
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Aug 13, 2018 00:17
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Echoing the above. Just roll with the stupid names and FM Drive time persona, and learn the airbrushing skills. Because he's very good.
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Aug 13, 2018 01:05
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drat, and on top of it all he constantly pimps his patreon and I'm not sure if it's possible to do so but it seems like he purposely loads his vids with more YouTube ads than normal. It's a shame there isn't another resource minus the ridiculous persona but I guess I'll plug my nose and soldier through them. P.s. thanks dexefiend for the BuyPainted reco, thia is what I was hoping for!
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Aug 13, 2018 03:39
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Mikey Purp posted:drat, and on top of it all he constantly pimps his patreon and I'm not sure if it's possible to do so but it seems like he purposely loads his vids with more YouTube ads than normal. Additional midrolls are absolutely something dickheads put into their videos. I'm guessing his minimum play time is also 10m01s to guarantee an end ad as well.
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Aug 13, 2018 08:46
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Throwing away your airbrush talk: How much do you guys thin down your Stynylrez primers? I was doing 50/50 last night and very quickly got to the point where I was blowing out a hairline of primer. I cleaned the brush and got a full flow of water, but went back to a hairline with the primer. I went as far as to up the PSI to 40, and that worked for a minute, but I dropped back down to a hairline. I don't know if my Gray is unusually thick, or what the problem is, but man, it was pissing me off.
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Aug 13, 2018 14:56
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I don’t thin, and prime at around 35 psi.
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Aug 13, 2018 15:01
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What size needle? I was using a .3 (medium.)
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Aug 13, 2018 15:06
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I also don't thin and prime at around 25-30 psi. I can't say I've ever had that problem with Stynylrez or Vallejo. E: berzerkmonkey posted:What size needle? I was using a .3 (medium.) Badger medium, which I believe is .5mm. grassy gnoll fucked around with this message at 15:08 on Aug 13, 2018 |
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Aug 13, 2018 15:06
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berzerkmonkey posted:What size needle? I was using a .3 (medium.) I think its .5, or whatever the standard one is on a Partriot 105.
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Aug 13, 2018 15:07
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Echoing that I prime with a Badger 105 Fine Needle unthinned at 30 PSi. I do shake it in a vortex mixer beforehand
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Aug 13, 2018 15:32
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I've actually been thinking of picking up a vortex mixer, but I have no idea about the reliability of the stuff that didn't come out of a scientific catalog. What brand are you using, and how do you like it?
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Aug 13, 2018 15:52
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Maybe some flow improver to prevent dry tip but yeah unthinned at 30~35.ijyt posted:I think its .5, or whatever the standard one is on a Partriot 105. Yeah, it's 0.5.
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Aug 13, 2018 15:56
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Hmm, maybe I'll swap needles then.grassy gnoll posted:I've actually been thinking of picking up a vortex mixer, but I have no idea about the reliability of the stuff that didn't come out of a scientific catalog. What brand are you using, and how do you like it?
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Aug 13, 2018 16:07
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berzerkmonkey posted:Hmm, maybe I'll swap needles then. Yeah, the small cup fits 17ml dropper bottles perfectly, or the 200ml paint bottles upside (like my varnishes or primer). It makes a huge difference for thick paints like Scale75 or Vallejo Game Color which is notorious for how it separates.
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Aug 13, 2018 17:43
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berzerkmonkey posted:Throwing away your airbrush talk: How much do you guys thin down your Stynylrez primers? I was doing 50/50 last night and very quickly got to the point where I was blowing out a hairline of primer. I cleaned the brush and got a full flow of water, but went back to a hairline with the primer. I went as far as to up the PSI to 40, and that worked for a minute, but I dropped back down to a hairline. I don't know if my Gray is unusually thick, or what the problem is, but man, it was pissing me off. Although I've never experienced it myself, I'm told that if you get primer dried to your needle/nozzle, even if you clean it thoroughly afterwards that it will cause paint to bond to your needle and quickly clog your brush. If you've got another needle, give that a try. I push Vallejo surface primer black/white/grey through my 105 at 20psi without a problem I've got a bottle of Stynylrez black but haven't popped it open yet.
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Aug 13, 2018 18:30
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Not sure if I saw it on Twitter or this thread, but someone used a wood clamp to hold the bottle and put the excess part into a reciprocating saw clamped in a bench vise. It was beautiful.
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Aug 13, 2018 20:05
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Probably a stupid question but if you are doing zenithal priming do each of your colors need to be primers or just your base coat? I have black primer but no gray or white...not sure if it makes sense to go buy extra primer colors just for zenithal or if I'm fine switching to VGC once I've laid down the black primer.
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Aug 13, 2018 20:24
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Don’t see why it shouldn’t be fine.
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Aug 13, 2018 20:48
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Mikey Purp posted:Probably a stupid question but if you are doing zenithal priming do each of your colors need to be primers or just your base coat? I have black primer but no gray or white...not sure if it makes sense to go buy extra primer colors just for zenithal or if I'm fine switching to VGC once I've laid down the black primer. You'll likely just want to wait for the black primer to dry and/or cure before putting on the non-primer zenithal layers.
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Aug 13, 2018 21:06
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Stynlrez black sprays perfectly for me at 30 psi without the tip drying for like 3+ minutes, but unthinned white clogs in about 7 seconds. I usually thin the white down something like 3 parts paint to 2 parts vallejo flow improver and it works fine.
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Aug 13, 2018 23:30
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How much thinner and flow retarder do you guys use when spraying VMA metallics? I'm having a hell of a time getting VMA Gun Metal to work through my 0.3mm tip.
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Aug 14, 2018 21:00
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:How much thinner and flow retarder do you guys use when spraying VMA metallics? I'm having a hell of a time getting VMA Gun Metal to work through my 0.3mm tip. I spray it straight from the bottle on my patriot 105 for base coats without issue but was having a hell of a time this weekend shooting it through my krome, so I would also like to know what has worked for people.
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Aug 14, 2018 21:26
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Bucnasti posted:I spray it straight from the bottle on my patriot 105 for base coats without issue but was having a hell of a time this weekend shooting it through my krome, so I would also like to know what has worked for people. What size needle are you using? I have a 0.3 (105) and 0.2 (Krome), and I'd rather not wait for the 0.5 to arrive before I do the next round of models.
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Aug 14, 2018 21:46
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A friend who is much better at painting than I am is doing my Forgeworld Chaplain on commission and he sent me an update the other day...  I'm busting with excitement. Magnetized the torso and weapons, pinned the elbow joint on the combat weapon, I'm pretty friggin psyched. This model is loving 
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Aug 15, 2018 03:58
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Beer4TheBeerGod posted:What size needle are you using? I have a 0.3 (105) and 0.2 (Krome), and I'd rather not wait for the 0.5 to arrive before I do the next round of models. Looks like it's the 0.5 on my patriot. It's the needle it came with.
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Aug 15, 2018 05:38
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Bucnasti posted:Looks like it's the 0.5 on my patriot. It's the needle it came with. Blue needle knob is .3. I spray VGA and VMA metallics same as any other VGA/VMAs. 1 part Flow Improver to 2 Parts Paint at around 15-18 PSI. If you're having clogging, just add a bit more flow improver and maybe a drop or two of thinner to break down the paint a bit, but honestly the VMA metallics are already very thin. One thing to note is that I am never aiming to remove dry tip entirely, or even clogs. I keep a wet sponge on hand and will usually wipe off my needle every 15-30 seconds. And sometimes a clog just happens and I just blast it out and then keep going. Though I've never had a clog I couldn't just spray out.
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Aug 15, 2018 14:05
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bonds0097 posted:Blue needle knob is .3. I think I have the blue knob on my patriot, but I'm not at home this week to be sure. I typically blast my brush onto a note card every 30-60 seconds of spraying to keep the tip clear but it just wasn't working for the gun metal or silver I was using this weekend. I'll have to do some experimenting before I start my next knight.
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Aug 15, 2018 15:17
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SRM posted:From Fallout Hobbies unfortunately, who after ordering came out in support of that lovely Manhammer model. I’ll need to find a different decal maker if I ever run out. Let me know if you find a supplier. I also need a new fleur-de-lis source.
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Aug 15, 2018 17:03
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Zuul the Cat posted:Let me know if you find a supplier. I also need a new fleur-de-lis source. You'll need to make the graphics yourself, but these guys seem to do a good job printing. Their sheets are more expensive than fallout but also way bigger. https://www.bedlamcreations.com/custom-waterslide-decals/
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Aug 15, 2018 17:34
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