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AlexDeGruven posted:I love the raptor series pla. I actually used it to repair the extruder on my i3 clone and it's been stronger than I expected. It can be a pain to print with as it requires a temp higher than normal PLA, but it sure is some nice looking stuff when it does print!
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Aug 14, 2018 12:10
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AlexDeGruven posted:I love the raptor series pla. I actually used it to repair the extruder on my i3 clone and it's been stronger than I expected. I went through the crapshoot and settled on the colors I liked but then suddenly all the colors started massively changing. Dark blue turned to pale blue. Translucent and dark turned light and opaque. I had one order where all 4 colors were so vastly different that they weren't even the same ballpark any more, here's two:  I'm fine with them making new colors and discontinuing old ones, but don't just change what a color is and not say anything. I emailed them about the color change and 8 days later I got an email back saying if I didn't like the color I could just mail it back to them at my expense. It's fine if I am printing vases, benchies, yoda busts, dragons or other landfill but if you're scratch building something and want all the parts to be the same color, or sell 3D prints where the color is consistent, MakerGeeks is not your store. I haven't bought from them since.
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Aug 14, 2018 13:17
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Stupid_Sexy_Flander posted:Anyone here print with a tiny nozzle? Like .1 or .2? I have a .15 that I've done some playing with. You'll get acceptable, but not good, quality for 28mm models. As mentioned, you have to print low and slow. Lowest temps your material can handle, and nothing moving faster than around 20mm/s -ish. I posted some examples of a couple miniatures I printed with mine a few months ago maybe, and one comparing it to an SLA printed version.
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Aug 14, 2018 14:18
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Looking at ordering a Creality Ender to try out 3D printing. https://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_1845898.html?wid=1433363#goodsDetail I'm also interested in getting the CR-10S, but I figure it's better to try this one out before I fully jump in. I've read/watched quite a few reviews so I have somewhat of an idea on what to expect. What is the goon consensus on it?
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Aug 14, 2018 18:59
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South posted:Looking at ordering a Creality Ender to try out 3D printing. https://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_1845898.html?wid=1433363#goodsDetail I like mine, but it’s also my first 3d printer so I tinker a lot. Thread probably has different thoughts, but I’ve got no complaints aside from a few basic set-up issues and teething after switching to a v6 hotend.
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Aug 14, 2018 19:25
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South posted:Looking at ordering a Creality Ender to try out 3D printing. https://www.gearbest.com/3d-printers-3d-printer-kits/pp_1845898.html?wid=1433363#goodsDetail If you're looking for "Babby's first printer" before jumping in then I wouldn't recommend anything that does not have support local to where you live, or at least a reputation for a good RMA system (Monoprice, etc.). Any Creality printer you buy is basically "gently caress you, it's a hobby" if you have any real issues. Same for any of the thousands of bullshit Ebay kits people love to call "AMAZING 3d PRINTER for <$300!!!11"
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Aug 14, 2018 19:29
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biracial bear for uncut posted:If you're looking for "Babby's first printer" before jumping in then I wouldn't recommend anything that does not have support local to where you live, or at least a reputation for a good RMA system (Monoprice, etc.). You spent actual money on a broken DaVinci. You don't get to give advice on printers anymore. South the Ender 3 has very quickly become a highly recommended beginner's printer. Join the Facebook 3D Printing group and see what absolute newbies are pulling off with one. It's not going to perform like a Prusa machine right out of the box, but it's no fire-prone Anet A8 either and by all accounts it's a very solid printer that people really enjoy owning. Acid Reflux fucked around with this message at 22:51 on Aug 14, 2018 |
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Aug 14, 2018 22:30
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I started with a Monoprice Select Mini and very quickly got an Ender 3 and wish I had just gone for the Ender 3 at the start honestly. It's a little more assembly and tinkering out of the box but I was able to get higher quality prints than the Select Mini really quickly. Are there any extra fire prevention steps I can take with an Ender 3? I picked up a fire extinguisher and only print when I'm home as I just don't feel comfortable leaving it running while I'm not there to deal a potential fire. I doubt I'll ever actually leave it running while I'm out but I was just curious if there was anything else I should do.
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Aug 14, 2018 23:06
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I don't think I've seen anything about fire prevention for the Ender 3 specifically, but this is a good watch for general advice: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VK_K6fp4BIk I like the idea of hanging one of these above it in case the worst happens: https://smile.amazon.com/WilliamsRDM-675-3D-Stovetop-Firestop-Rangehood/dp/B00FL6VU3Y/ Obviously you don't want it to get that far, but if it does it could be a cheap way to keep things from getting out of hand.
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Aug 15, 2018 00:21
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For the Ender 3, it’s worth taking the time to flash a version of Marlin on there to enable thermal runaway protection. It’s not in the default firmware. (If/as you start tinkering with it you’re probably going to want to do so anyway, so might as well knock it out early.)
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Aug 15, 2018 01:57
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Acid Reflux posted:You spent actual money on a broken DaVinci. You don't get to give advice on printers anymore. The DaVinci works, actually. Also, you can scoff at me spending $200 on it plus shipping, but I don't have to worry about it spontaneously burning my shop down like a great many other $200 printers out there.
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Aug 15, 2018 14:54
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Any reliable way to weld smaller strands of PLA together? I've been using the extruder head to heat up two ends and mushroom them together. After shaving off the excess the bond is either too weak or the diameter is not microscopicly prefect and jams the machine. There are some DIY methods and at least one commercial solution I've found online. Anyone have experience with these?
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Aug 15, 2018 17:58
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I saw something once that involved heat shrink tubing and ends cut at an angle. Put ends fitting together, slide heat shrink over the joint, heat it up which both melted the ends while keeping them in the right shape and against one another. Let cool and remove heat shrink. Don't know details beyond that but it apparently worked very well.
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Aug 15, 2018 18:15
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Putty posted:Any reliable way to weld smaller strands of PLA together? I've been using the extruder head to heat up two ends and mushroom them together. After shaving off the excess the bond is either too weak or the diameter is not microscopicly prefect and jams the machine. The best answer I've come up with here is "don't" because the time and effort you put into it is worth more than the money you spend just buying another spool of filament.
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Aug 15, 2018 18:32
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biracial bear for uncut posted:The DaVinci works, actually. Also, you can scoff at me spending $200 on it plus shipping, but I don't have to worry about it spontaneously burning my shop down like a great many other $200 printers out there. I'll apologize for the "broken" part then, I probably missed a post somewhere, but I'll never stop believing that DaVinci and their ilk with proprietary consumables are a pox on hobby-level printing. As far as burning your shop down, I've yet to read horror stories about flaming Creality machines at any price point. I've never owned one, so I can't comment on their overall quality from personal experience, but someone out of the thousands of apparently happy owners probably would have spoken up by now if one had tried to kill them. It's almost invariably the A8's and their even cheaper 2018 Upgraded Quality CTC High Precision Maker Reprap Prusa i3 DIY 3d Printer ABS PLA PETG CIA KGB KROQ USA!! clones that seem to come with that feature set. Those, and whatever that really popular Monoprice model was a while back with the lovely bed wiring. biracial bear for uncut posted:The best answer I've come up with here is "don't" because the time and effort you put into it is worth more than the money you spend just buying another spool of filament. And for what it's worth, I completely agree with you on this. Been down that road myself and the usual results aren't worth the time you invest in the attempt.
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Aug 15, 2018 19:00
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Acid Reflux posted:I'll apologize for the "broken" part then, I probably missed a post somewhere, but I'll never stop believing that DaVinci and their ilk with proprietary consumables are a pox on hobby-level printing. Yeah, I'll trade flashing open-source firmware onto an ill-implemented closed-source machine over a ton of mechanical tinkering any day. The machine itself is a loving tank build (also, something about a build plate that is stationary except for Z-positioning is sexy as hell vs. the typical I3-style motion).
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Aug 15, 2018 19:55
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Thanks for the opinions. I went ahead and ordered the Ender 3. I like the fact that there is a large community and quite a few easy upgrades I can add to it. Plus, I have a buddy who said he’ll buy it for what I paid if I don’t like it.
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Aug 15, 2018 19:59
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I understand it's a budget machine, and there probably isn't much for quality control, but I bought one last month from a US warehouse, it was here in less than a week, and it has more or less been churning out print after print since I got things dialed in even close to correct. I just can't wrap my head around some of the posts on the Facebook group. Of course a budget printer is going to be built to lower standards than a $1000 printer. My bed is low in the center, but prints still stick like crazy as long as I clean it every 5 to 10 prints or so. I flashed the firmware after a couple days of running the stock firmware for a baseline, and it went off without a hitch. I did print a petsfang cooler to help with bridging and overhangs, but it wasn't necessary to make functional parts. I just finished a mount for a raspberry pi and pi cam, so I can run octoprint and not have to have my desktop on all night, and I put LED strips in the vertical rails so I can actually have a chance of seeing black filament on the build plate. I'm running Inland PLA+, and while I'm sure a more expensive filament might extrude better and be more consistent, I've gotten it to work for everything so far. But I never expected it to work as well as it has. I knew what I might get into when I hit buy, and while I've been tinkering quite a bit with it, that's only been for ease of use, not functionality. Tl;dr: It's a $200 printer. Don't expect a $1000 printer without some time and effort, but it's well worth $200. Edit: I will say that my PEI bubbles up in the middle if I pull the part off too quickly, and is a pain to get it stuck again, but since they changed the build plate anyway, that might not even be a problem for anyone now. One Legged Ninja fucked around with this message at 21:29 on Aug 15, 2018 |
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Aug 15, 2018 21:21
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biracial bear for uncut posted:The best answer I've come up with here is "don't" because the time and effort you put into it is worth more than the money you spend just buying another spool of filament. Maybe he's trying to set up a multicolour print the hard way?
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Aug 15, 2018 21:29
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Putty posted:Any reliable way to weld smaller strands of PLA together? I've been using the extruder head to heat up two ends and mushroom them together. After shaving off the excess the bond is either too weak or the diameter is not microscopicly prefect and jams the machine. Filament runout sensor.
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Aug 15, 2018 21:49
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cakesmith handyman posted:Maybe he's trying to set up a multicolour print the hard way? Hot Take incoming. Multicolor FDM printing is loving retarded and will never look as good as a single color print that you paint later. Multi-material on the other hand has actually useful applications.
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Aug 16, 2018 01:22
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biracial bear for uncut posted:Multicolor FDM printing is loving retarded and will never look as good as a single color print that you paint later. That depends heavily on the skill of the painter, and also, 
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Aug 16, 2018 01:27
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cakesmith handyman posted:Maybe he's trying to set up a multicolour print the hard way? We have a lot of short spool-less filament just lying around in the workshop. Since I have other duties I can't just sit there and constantly feed small strands into the printers, so making a big roll out of em seemed ideal. Some of the strands might be over two years old and full of moisture so I'm aiming to use it just for prototyping as a way to get rid of it ASAP. Making sure to enforce proper storage procedures for now on. insta posted:Filament runout sensor. This is a good idea. Will look for something but I'm open to any goon recommendations.
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Aug 16, 2018 04:38
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Putty posted:We have a lot of short spool-less filament just lying around in the workshop. Since I have other duties I can't just sit there and constantly feed small strands into the printers, so making a big roll out of em seemed ideal. Some of the strands might be over two years old and full of moisture so I'm aiming to use it just for prototyping as a way to get rid of it ASAP. Making sure to enforce proper storage procedures for now on. You might try friction welding them together. The odd size at the weld site would probably lead to wonky extrusion issues, but maybe you could shave that down after welding them?
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Aug 16, 2018 05:26
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What do you consider short? PLA isn't very expensive and spending a bunch of time splicing it together may not be worthwhile.
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Aug 16, 2018 11:32
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BMan posted:That depends heavily on the skill of the painter, and also, Yeah, because airbrush/spraypainting is hard.  Putty posted:We have a lot of short spool-less filament just lying around in the workshop. Since I have other duties I can't just sit there and constantly feed small strands into the printers, so making a big roll out of em seemed ideal. Some of the strands might be over two years old and full of moisture so I'm aiming to use it just for prototyping as a way to get rid of it ASAP. Making sure to enforce proper storage procedures for now on. Unless the total weight of all of them together is equal to about a dozen full spools, throw that poo poo away because you will easily spend more than that in development and build costs of anything like a reliable method for splicing them together and printing them in a continuous length.
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Aug 16, 2018 12:28
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Great Beer posted:What do you consider short? PLA isn't very expensive and spending a bunch of time splicing it together may not be worthwhile. The strands are equal to or greater than 36in. People before me just decided to throw away the spools to save space i guess. We buy the makerbot brand for our Replicator 2s which is $48 for two pounds. biracial bear for uncut posted:Unless the total weight of all of them together is equal to about a dozen full spools, throw that poo poo away because you will easily spend more than that in development and build costs of anything like a reliable method for splicing them together and printing them in a continuous length. Tell that to my boss.
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Aug 16, 2018 14:12
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You're going to gently caress up a Makerbot. Sorry (not sorry though)
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Aug 16, 2018 14:21
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Here's what you do: go to thingiverse.com search for "splice filament" and pick one of half a dozen or so implementations. Btw, yhe shallower of an angle you can reliably cut, the more area youll have at the joint for bonding.
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Aug 16, 2018 14:23
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Putty posted:The strands are equal to or greater than 36in. People before me just decided to throw away the spools to save space i guess. We buy the makerbot brand for our Replicator 2s which is $48 for two pounds. Throw that piece of poo poo printer away and get a good one if you're doing it for an actual business, and buy filament from Hatchbox on Amazon. gently caress Makerbot and their unreliable piece of poo poo machines. That's my advice to your boss. Spend five loving minutes in Excel putting in two columns of data, one of them is the material cost of the filament per unit of length with a total at the bottom, the other being the cost in wages over time for just yourself, then plot a loving chart to show your boss that the time already lost loving around with this could easily buy enough filament to keep printing poo poo without worrying about wasted drop material as long as said material length is shorter than five loving feet. EDIT: Be a real smartass and plot another line on the chart showing the boss that the cost of the "wasted" filament is less than the cost of the time the company pays your boss whenever he's in the toilet. Some Pinko Commie fucked around with this message at 14:26 on Aug 16, 2018 |
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Aug 16, 2018 14:24
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That's like 15 cents per strand. It's in no way worth the effort.
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Aug 16, 2018 14:30
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I am not a fan of these makerbots either, but they've been here longer than I have and probably cost more than I do. Gonna definitely push for new machines once i'm more trusted in this company. I can probably convince boss to buy the Hatchbox filament now so ill do that today. Gonna abandon the idea of splicing and just take more preventative measures in the future. Thanks for ask the advice dudes.
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Aug 16, 2018 14:45
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Great Beer posted:That's like 15 cents per strand. It's in no way worth the effort. This checks out. A 1kg spool of PLA filament (which is what they are printing if they spend $48 per spool directly from Makerbot) is 1,080 feet. Makerbot spools are .9kg, which is merely 972 feet per spool and ups the price per foot, but that still works out to only $.05 per foot (would be $.04 per foot if they provided proper filament length spools). You would have to have 324 loving strands to make up one Makerbot spool, and gently caress having 324 splices.
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Aug 16, 2018 14:51
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My boss likes saving money. Gonna order a Hatchbox spool to test soon.
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Aug 16, 2018 15:04
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That Gobbo posted:I started with a Monoprice Select Mini and very quickly got an Ender 3 and wish I had just gone for the Ender 3 at the start honestly. It's a little more assembly and tinkering out of the box but I was able to get higher quality prints than the Select Mini really quickly. This. I had to fix a few things on my mini so I knew how to do it on the ender 3 but I could of just learned on the ender 3. I put a glass bed ($7 from lowes) and some dampers ($8 from amazon). Printed a few small upgrades and it has been great quite machine.
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Aug 16, 2018 20:20
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Ugh, I've almost had it with this dual extruder. The heat creep is stupid. I got some improvement by directing a desk fan at the printhead; initially it was keeping the temperatures down but it was just a matter of time before the heat rose and the print failed, probably bought me another 30 minutes of printing all told, which is no help when my parts generally take 24-48 hours. Is there anything else I can possibly do to combat this issue or should I just give up? Anyone have any solutions to cooling the heatsink on the nozzle that don't involved splicing wires? (I'd love to try replacing the stock fan for something with better flowrate but I have zero electrical experience.)
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Aug 17, 2018 05:02
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Listerine posted:Ugh, I've almost had it with this dual extruder. The heat creep is stupid. I got some improvement by directing a desk fan at the printhead; initially it was keeping the temperatures down but it was just a matter of time before the heat rose and the print failed, probably bought me another 30 minutes of printing all told, which is no help when my parts generally take 24-48 hours. I would swap out the fan with a better quality one Noctua has a reputation as the best in the business ,but I feel they prioritise silence over performance (not a critique, just what they do) I find Sunon fans to be quite a bit more powerful for less  and only marginally more noise.Soldering isn't too hard and us a good skill to develop if you own a 3d printer
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Aug 17, 2018 07:25
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Ditch the dual-extruder altogether for a single extruder, use a high-quality fan on the machine itself and put the desk fan back on the desk.
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Aug 17, 2018 11:29
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Gosh woodfill is a bitch of a thing I love having something where it feels more organic but the cleanup and hassle is such an issue   Edit: Cute 
Jestery fucked around with this message at 11:16 on Aug 18, 2018 |
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Aug 18, 2018 05:16
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Anyone know of a good metallic color gold pla? The stuff I got is more of a toffee color.
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Aug 18, 2018 06:53
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